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Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

got 3 pots each of snap peas, sugar peas and green beans, basil just sprouted but none of my tomatoes or peppers have yet

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Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

got my dripline up and running today and decided to post about it

why do dripline?

dripline allows you to put a specific amount of water exactly where you want it, reducing water waste, erosion and weeding... with a timer you can gently caress off and be super lazy when it's over 100 out and not have to worry about dragging a hose around every day

why not do dripline?

a hose is cheap and you may have ample free time to stand outside with a hose every day idk

things you need:

basic tools: punch and cut tool to make holes in 1/2" dripline and slice up dripline, zip ties, maybe some vise grips

dripline: 1/2" mainlines and 1/4" emitter lines are standard in the states, leave them in the sun s little bit before using to soften them and make connections easier

fittings and connectors: fitting to transition hose bib or garden hose to 1/2" dripline, some t fittings to split 1/2" lines, 1/4" barbed connectors, i prefer screw-tight fittings to compression fittings because they seem more secure and are easier to reuse

emitters: there's like a thousand varieties but i prefer variable emitters that let you dial in a flow rate starting at 0gpm, on a stake, and come with a free barbed connector... and i use sprinklers, bubblers or misters depending on circumstances

metal wire stakes to hold the dripline in place unless you're burying it

optional: programmable timer, y adapter for the hose bib so you don't lose functionality to the dripline

setting up:

in my current system i have the timer coming off the hose bib connected to the 1/2" dripline adapter, put a t connector in about 6 feet down the line and have one line supplying my pots and one line supplying the garden, cut 4' portions of 1/4" line put a barbed connector in one end and the emitter in the other, punch a hole in the 1/2" line and stick the barbed connector in... to terminate a line all you need to do is fold it over to kink it and hold it in place with a zip tie

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

twoday posted:

what is a dripline?

more expensive and controlled than poking holes in a garden hose with a nail and laying it next to whatever you want watered, but pretty much the same thing in concept

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

dripline emitters do all sorts of things depending on your needs... you can get emitters that encircle a tree and distribute water over the roots evenly, you can use underground soaker line to water an entire garden row at the roots, or you can use emitters to target a specific plant or group of plants... emitters are rated with a flow rate of gallons per minute, coverage angle and the pattern of the emitted water... i use variable emitters mostly because as plants grow they need increasing water over time and it's nice to be able to shut an emitter off completely when not in use

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

Abongination posted:

I’ve had bad experience with drip line clogging so generally prefer sprinkler heads covering areas. least you can tell if it’s not working.

My dream setup it overhead drippers I think.

yeah, happens more frequently if you bury the line as silt seeps in, need to flush the system by opening the ends of the 1/2" lines and letting it rip every couple months to keep the lines clear... it helps to use a little too much 1/4" emitter line because if you have a problematic emitter you can snip it off the end of the line and swap in a new one quick

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

start of drip irrigation system with hose bib, y adapter, timer, threaded 3/4" to 1/2" screw-tight fitting and 1/2" line:


rescued grape with hopefully germinating nightshades:


bean pot, made these last year by drilling holes near the rim and using large gauge steel fencing wire to make a cage, worked well for tomatoes and peppers:


one of my emitters doing its thing:


terminating 1/2" line with a zip tie:


recently transplanted sage in the main garden area:


getting the garden ready for transplants:


using some concepts of permaculture in my garden:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permaculture

exclusively relying on compost and mulching for soil nutrients, mixed composted horse manure and mulch into the soil when it was tilled, doing sheet mulching with leaves to promote a healthy microbial, fungal and insect ecosystem, encourage earthworm activity, prevent weeds and improve soil moisture

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

HiHo ChiRho posted:

I have that same problem in my backyard of limited shade due to trees surrounding it. May not be as bad as your parents, since I was able to get tomatoes, snap peas and peppers growing. My problem was the deer eating my tomatoes plants before they finished ripening.

Started with a 4x6 plot last year, starting to try a 4x 12 plot and see what happens with a couple of rows

deer are the worst, one time i planted a dozen or so pepper plants in a planter box in my backyard and one day i left the gate open so a deer moseyed in and chewed all the plants down to the roots... another time i was trying to make an ornamental fence out of grapevines and the deer wouldn't leave the grapes alone so i had to spray this rancid egg and cayenne mixture all over the leaves once a week to keep them away, they seem to leave herbs or anything with a strong flavor alone at least

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

i had a problem for a couple weeks last summer when feral peacocks were eating my tomatoes

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000


i remember hearing as a kid that native americans would plant their corn and bury a fish head with it but in reality it would rot and kill the corn

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

thinking about trellising my tomatoes and peppers with an overhead line suspended between posts, but don't necessarily want to buy t posts, might see if i can scavenge some hosed up 2×4s to use instead

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

came up on 20ish free t posts that were in a junk pile

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

got the drip installation finished for the main garden, may have gone overboard and put in 48 0-10gph emitters so there wasn't enough water pressure to run my pots at the same time and had to run a separate line... picked up some nice pepper starts though, got an aji amarillo, some fresnos new mexicos and havasus... dogs were digging in the garden so i have to put up fencing to keep them out


one nice thing about my garden location is it's next to a pile of pavers that provide a habitat for lots of pest-eating lizards

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000


got the garden pretty much finished, all the drip is done, fencing is up, trellises are set, planted the pepper starts, still have 30ish unused emitters where i can stick my sprouting basil, chives, tomatoes, squash and cucumbers eventually

row of peppers amongst the mulch underneath the trellis, top line of the trellis is paracord and the rest is twine, don't think the twine will hold up well with plants full of fruit so will run some vertical lines down from the paracord eventually... suspended my unused emitters so they don't get lost in the mulch or get stepped on

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

looking into getting some bolt resistant lettuce to grow through the summer since we have hot summers here and came upon this:

http://sacmg.ucanr.edu/summer_lettuce/

jericho and nevada lettuce look pretty good but might have a hard time sourcing seed locally, anyone have experience with online seed vendors?

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

huh, all packs of jericho lettuce seeds are out of stock except for the 1oz size for $15

"one ounce of jericho lettuce seeds contains approximately 39,000 seeds"

*clicks add to cart*

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

blackberrys grow wild around here and they'll take over stream banks or depressions in the land where water can accumulate and form 8 foot high thorny barriers full of berries, clearing them is such a pain in the rear end

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

just bought a shitload of lettuce, spinach, beet and mustard seeds... gonna have greens for days, now im looking at getting a curry bush, kaffir lime and lemongrass for a lifetime supply of curries

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

Dustcat posted:

sweet! i just ordered a bunch of drip irrigation junk to mechanize my agricultural production, gonna post proud pictures in a week or two

i have some kaffir lime and lemongrass seeds from last fall that might still sprout if you want them, but no guarantees, i only had a 15% germination on the kaffir lime to begin with

sure, ill take em, sent you a message

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000


beans are coming along, not sure if i want to keep running with 4 in the pot or if i should cull them down to 2, i guess there's about 15 gallons of rich soil per pot

maybe a little too rich, there's some heavy mycocomposting activity, beans in this pot are smaller

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

Platystemon posted:

Can we consider the Lenin to piranha pipeline to be aquaculture?

what's the term for mulching via fish?

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000



:getin:

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

Marzzle posted:

I added some dried grass clippings to my compost and now after a year of trying it's finally at the right ratio to cook and I've never been more excited about literal garbage

hoping to get a big compost pile going here sometime... my house burned down and they had to scrape 18" of soil from the lot so all the topsoil is gone, still a couple years away from moving back but when i do i want to set up a bunch of raised beds but will need lots of soil to fill them... my current spot provides access to unlimited amounts of oak leaves and horse poo poo

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

Marzzle posted:

I'm getting some manure to sub into this gardening soil recipe I've been doing.

Mix is:

33% coco coir
33% coarse perlite
20% manure
13% worm castings

plz r8 my soil cspam

ive used a similar mix but with no manure and about 50% coir, and mixed in nutrients in the form of kelp meal, bone meal, blood meal and dolomite and it worked good for peppers and tomatoes

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

Platystemon posted:





I need to make an onion tower.

No instructions were provided for that one. Form a cylinder with plastic (weed barrier?) punch holes, surround with chicken wire, I guess?

This one uses straw.

reminds me of an oyster mushroom cultivation setup... could do a small scale one with a 5 gallon bucket with holes drilled in it

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

i was given a bag of magic beans

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Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

Salvor_Hardin posted:

Thanks! And yeah, all options are open. There's tons of vine plants all over that fence in the back but I would probably go for something prettier and less invasive. Any suggestions?

im planning on building a fire pit chill area in my backyard surrounded by raised bed gardens and a circular arbor with kiwi vines on it... the vines and flowers look nice, plus you get to look at a bunch of hairy balls when they start to ripen

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

the birds are getting more tomatoes than i am

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

i was given a few tomatillo volunteers from someone's garden and i understand they aren't self-pollinating but i guess you need 3 or more since only one of them has fruited and the other one hasn't and as a consequence is vegging out like crazy and like 6 times bigger than the fruiting plant

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

informed my wife this morning i spent $300 on seeds

bought a shitload of arugula, greens beet, mustard and sorrel seeds... apparently sorrel sucks

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Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

i mean, i got other poo poo too... all my pepper and tomato seeds, 4 types of basil, cucumbers, peas, beans, eggplants, bok choi, chives, oregano and a lot of hyssop for hedges

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

borage: songs to make love to your old sow to

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

Is there a "thing" to repurpose into a compost bin? I'd prefer not to buy a new product for it and would rather re-use/re-purpose something

5gallon buckets is all I'm finding but I'd prefer something larger. Cobble together something out of pallet wood and chicken wire to keep the animals out?

pallet wood is almost always treated and i wouldn't want it breaking down into my compost, untreated scraps of wood is fine though... i have a bunch of 1x4 boards used once for concrete forms and stakes i intend to make a compost bin out of

anybody know of a good place to get kelp meal fertilizer in quantities of like 25 or 50lb?

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000


lol, there's actually a location near me since im norcal, thanks

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

you could probably make a decent compost bin out of a cylinder of chicken wire alone, although it would be easier to prevent drying with a barrier on the outside

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

50lb sack of kelp acquired!

doing an organic 1-0.26-1.35 fertilizer mix for my lettuce and herb beds and it works out to 34 parts kelp meal to 1 part each of bone and blood meal and getting the kelp meal in bulk is essential to keeping the cost down

grange coop has a lotta cool stuff, kinda like the now gone orchard supply but less emphasis on tools and more emphasis on agriculture, picked up a bunch of other stuff i had been looking for too

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

im going to do row covers too or netting at the very least to keep out deer, rabbits, birds, squirrels, skunks, etc... don't think i can get away with wire though because it gets really loving windy here sometimes, so im using steel 1/2" emt conduit and making a form to bend the hoops and i got a bunch of clips that hold the material to the emt like this

the emt currently costs $6 for 10 feet, and i imagine it has a decade or longer lifespan

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

ive done a lot of dripline in the past and systems range in complexity from single input and output inline valves with a battery powered timer to an array of solenoid valves with control cables going to an irrigation controller, so what's appropriate kinda depends on your needs and scale

if you're starting out and have a smaller area to water you can get by with a battery powered inline valve or two like this... they make inline valves that have 2, 3 or 4 outputs, i used a 4 output last year on my bucket garden but wasn't so impressed because the build quality was pretty poo poo and it was leaky

next you'll need actual dripline, fittings, emitters and tools

the dripline is simple, 1/2" dripline connects to the water source (no need for a pressure regulator unless you have crazy high water pressure), 1/4" dripline punches into the 1/2" dripline and delivers water to an emitter or two, there is also drip tape that emits water at regular intervals which i will be using the first time this year because i just want even watering in my beds underneath landscape fabric to keep air humidity and splash down

i always get fittings that are twist-to-tighten because they're a lot easier to install, uninstall, reconfigure and reuse than barbed or compression fittings... you'll need at the least a fitting to convert from a standard hose bib to 1/2" dripline, probably a few t connectors and 90 degree elbows... i don't bother with terminal fittings, i just fold the end of the dripline back on itself and hold it there with a ziptie, i don't use filters or anything because there's a lot more silt back-flowing through emitters and connection points than coming through the tap, and again i don't use pressure regulators because they just gimp your system to lower capacity and add an additional failure point when most of the time the water pressure is fine to start with

there's like bajillions of types of emitters, but in general i like adjustable emitters because i can modify flow rate easily during plant growth or weather changes, also some emitters come with the barb connectors to plug the other end of the 1/4" line into the 1/2" line, which saves you from buying one more thing, so choose those over others if they're otherwise similar

for tools you basically just need a punch tool and a dripline cutter, which are often combined into 1 tool... i find zip ties also useful and these days i pin my dripline to the dirt with bamboo cooking skewers cut in half

some additional tips: dripline is easier to work with after getting warm in the sun, dripline will also expand in the sun and contract again when cold, so plugging emitters directly into the 1/2" line is problematic because the 1/2" line will want to move somewhere else unless buried or anchored... in general i prefer to use lower flow emitters because you can run many more of them and you can always run the line a little longer but you can't increase the max flow rate

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

also always make your 1/4" lines to your emitters a little longer than they need to be, so that if an emitter fails or you want to change it out you can just snip it off the end and put a new one in quick

Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

we had a couple of hard freezes and my limes aren't doing so good now, if they pull through they'll need to be wrapped up for future freezes... i have a key lime but i knew they were particularly sensitive to cold and i put it in a container so i could wheel it into the garage when needed, need to make a proper greenhouse at some point and park limes, avocado, lemongrass and a curry tree in there

a guy i know decided to grow hothouse tomatoes through the winter, started in early december and was starting to yield well when a couple weeks back the breaker powering his heat lamps tripped and he didn't realize it and there was a freeze and everything died

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Spoondick
Jun 9, 2000

doing soil blocks for the first time, things seem to be going well



got peppers, eggplants and tomatoes all started and looking good

the mix for the soil blocks is 10 qts hydrated coconut coir, 10 qts peat moss, 10 qts compost, 10 lbs earthworm castings, 1/2 cup kelp meal, 1/8 cup ag dolomite... i make up a batch and mix it well without adding any water, pour some in a bucket, mix in water until it's a thick mud consistency, then shove it into a tool called a soil blocker that shits out the blocks when you squeeze it like a really messy playdoh toy

advantages are: no need to buy plug trays, seedling starter pots, etc, plants do not become root-bound as the roots air prune when they reach the edge of block, reduced transplant shock because of minimal root disturbance, once seeds have germinated you can bottom water and the blocks wick the water to the top

disadvantages: messy, time consuming... although with practice i might get quicker, takes me about 20 minutes with everything set up to make a tray of 32 blocks




im thinking these blocks won't be big enough to handle the tomatoes for 4 more weeks, will have to transplant then into bigger blocks and im probably going to have to make them with a homemade mold of some sort

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