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I stumbled across a youtube channel that made me think of this thread: RV ROOF REPAIR Not good with the camera and he rambles, but his repairs are good. And the poor quality of new RVs is plain to see.
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Aug 7, 2020 02:52
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Oh hi thread. It's me again. It's about time to get this shitshow back on the road after a little hiatus to focus on other burning dumpsterfires happening in 2020. 5x solar panels have been ordered just in time for PG&E season. A new cat 12 modem is on its way to replace the baked potato that lives in the dome. The new server is coming along nicely. Here it is taped to a temporary enclosure, aka an Ideapad 100s.  Next for it comes an enclosure then mounting. BTW Software is hard. Coulomb counters fabricated and ready for installation.   Pillows fabricated for the dinette.   More epoxy to the exterior.  structural, filler, sand it, paint it. Almost a Daft Punk song here.    One more coat then the aluminum frame for the curbside goes on. After that both aluminum frames get proper prepwork and paint. Other noteworthy stuff. Decided to leave the awning off in the interest of weight savings. That's 65lb that won't be at the roofline, though the clearance light being lower than the edge like that triggers the poo poo out of me. It'll of course be offset by solar, of which the new panels underwent a redesign and are a couple pounds lighter per unit. There's a81lb portable awning that we have that'll work out well, and be movable to whichever side we're hanging out on, or can throw it up over a picnic table, which the current awning can't do. It's also blue and green.  The tow vehicle lost its tailgate dropping 73lb off the rear, and a receiver + basket combo was added to the front bumper. The spare tire, highlift, and the portable awning will shift about 100lb off the rear axle. Pulling the 5th wheel cover plate drops another 20lb or so. More details over in the truck thread.
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Aug 16, 2020 21:35
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Aug 20, 2020 21:07
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Yes, I agree. Please dazzle paint your camper!
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Aug 22, 2020 09:42
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MrOnBicycle posted:Yes, I agree. Please bedazzle your camper!
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Aug 22, 2020 09:48
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MrOnBicycle posted:Yes, I agree. Please dazzle paint your camper! Good news everyone. Fire season has dazzle camo'd the camper. Slow on the progress as we're not going outside if the AQI gets near 100 or more. Our camper parts have fallen into blackholes and gone to every corner of the country which has made this fun and interesting in ways I never thought possible. While the smoke has limited what we can do to the camper outside, it's afforded us time to work on the internal infrastructure. The home network is dismantled at this point with the Unifi AP ready to go into the camper. The new modem is running dual cellular accounts and ready to go. More progress on the server side as well with 3 VMs running stable on the single board computer. Fileshare, routing, firewalls, etc. First bench top fire with less than ideal antennas:  With the RO system occupying the space for the power cable umbilicals, they both are replaced with patch cables that can be stowed elsewhere. The 30A cable was handled back around the Mendocino outing in early July. The connectors we ordered were porch pirated, I finally got around to sourcing a replacement one for the 12V running lights. The hole needed to be enlarged a small amount. Easy with a hand saw.  As always, epoxy the poo poo out of it. This will reinforce the connector incase gronk heehaws on the plug.  When the epoxy cures, seal it in place with 4200.  Boxes turned out alright. Probably gonna do some aluminum trim at the seam where the filon meets the wood.  At the rear of the camper, back in April or so I ordered a new window frame. Well it never arrived, so with a second order from a different supplier, a frame finally shows up.  This thing is old, warped, and busted. It leaks and the window rattles which is rather frustrating.  Of course 2" woodscrews hold it all together. Remove those and it more or less falls apart. Y'know, camper things. The door was cut presumably on a Monday by Larry the slush. The new frame of course doesn't fit as the window hole isn't square, or really round. Cue 45 mins of adjusting the hole and in general cleaning up the factory's work.  It bolts together just like it came apart with the only caveat that the new window frame has 4 additional screws. Of course you provide your own hardware. Luckily there's no shortage of paint around here.   The basket finally arrived for the truck. With this we can pile a few hundred pounds on the front of the truck as ballast.   I'll mount the spare to the underside like so to ruin the approach angle even more.  Welded brackets to the basket to mount a highlift.  These jacks come in pretty handy for a variety of shitshow scenarios. There's a 20T bottle jack that lives in one of the toolboxes of the truck, this jack will pick up where the bottle leaves off. A couple years ago I used this jack to push the dent out of the rear bumper on the truck.  And of course, smoke. Fires are about 15ish miles away.  Note the a/c shroud.that's next. Off with the old brittle unsightly piece of crap. Underneath lies the finest in 1970s tech. R22. Simple Techumpseh compressor from the late Roman empire. A sealed blower motor that spins pretty freely and some bent fins.  While I'm in here, bend the bent fins back out. No fin comb to be found, manual bending we will go!  Build up the new cover. Of course it isn't pre-assembled and not all of the holes line up.   That's done and really helps this old camper not look like complete rear end. These things UV degrade and are turbo expensive for what they are much like the rest of the exterior plastics. Polished the rest of the logo off the back.  After that, peeled off the old silicone that's long beyond its sell by date. In its place goes 4200.  I don't really want to pull the door and lay a bead under the frame. Disturbing the frame may lead to a project I don't want. This is a safe middle ground. The same is done for the generator and LP hatches. The hatches themselves are bonded to an internal frame which would have warped the hatch if I tried to remove them.  At the same time the curb side door frame is installed with 4200.  Let it cure overnight 
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Aug 30, 2020 21:11
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Looking awesome as always. Can I ask a question since you mentioned a bottle jack? I was browsing car related bits this weekend as I was trying not to drink and keeping myself occupied with work on home and vehicles, and I was eyeing some pump jacks as the 3 ton I have was last used as an impromptu frame Machine to straighten out a bumper after some off-roading and who knows how long it will last. Right next to the nice pump jacks that loft a max 15-16” is a 12 TON bottle jack that lifts nearly 19” and is freaking $29. Is their something bad about these? This seems too easy. Does everyone already have one of these and I don’t know it? I ha e lots of trucks and vans and the extra inches and weight tolerance is much needed. Sorry for the derail.
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Aug 31, 2020 01:43
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As with any jack it is a lifting apparatus not a support apparatus. A cheap jack is fine IMO. However never crawl under the vehicle supported by only a jack. I've done a buncha sketchy poo poo with cheap jacks over the years and survived to tell the story. I don't recommend it. The most important thing to keep in mind is that you cannot trust the jack. Ever. That's what jack stands are for.I've used this particular bottle on the Gillig to replace suspension airbags and it was fine for that. Again, it was supported with a jackstand. Spend your coin on good stands. I also wouldn't use a cheap hf jack or the like at rated capacity. 1/4 that? ok no problem. Much like their jackstands, I don't trust them. Lift your load, support it on something solid. Cribbing is also a valid method for support, much like what's supporting the camper right now. Ie: do this:  That craftsman jack is very tired and on par with about poo poo from HF. It has been wicked abused lifting tour buses. I should rebuild it at somepoint but  . Usually the hydraulics will bleed down on the cheap jacks, this worn out floor jack is no different which is part of why you do not trust them. The bottle is along for lifting the axle alone. The frame is too high up to meaningfully lift the truck which is where the highlift fits in. Another thing to keep in mind is that the pad on these bottlejacks SUCK. Use a section of 2x12 or 1" plywood or get a jackpad if you're on gravel. Bottlejacks like to roll on gravel or unlevel surfaces which will dump a car on you. I had it happen with a festiva back in like 2009. Don't be like me. For frame straightening I'd highly suggest getting a portapower. For general truck lifting duties a bottle jack is fine. They don't like to work on their side which makes em ill suited for portapower duties. They can be abused to a degree, like a press for instance. Here's a photo of when i rebuilt the truck's oil cooler back in 2016 before I had a shitbox press to abuse.  iirc my actual press has the same 20T bottle jack.
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Aug 31, 2020 02:48
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Great info and I DO have a gravel driveway. I do use jack stands. If nothing else an even smaller bottle jack will be nice for stowing for road trips in case I need to put a spare on (I usually stow my big jack in its case so I won’t ha e to mess with a factory jack just in case). I had a jack slip off the oily crossmember of my 71 Ltd in the 90s and me and my friend are only alive bc it slipped under the oil pan crushing it but keeping the car off our heads
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Aug 31, 2020 02:57
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You have more VMs running reliably in your camper than I do in containers in my rack at home. Good poo poo.
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Aug 31, 2020 05:49
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Nice project, I like what you're doing with the electronics. I want to see the test with the full solar capacity installed. When are you going to upgrade the truck charging system? cursedshitbox posted:Talk about jacking it...
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Aug 31, 2020 15:48
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cursedshitbox posted:Usually the hydraulics will bleed down on the cheap jacks, this worn out floor jack is no different which is part of why you do not trust them. This. My old HF jack started dropping slowly, then while lifting Brokeback a few months back, the seal went pop and it just spewed fluid and dumped the car on the ground. I was trying like hell to get it high enough to get a jack stand under it, and was finally close to getting one under when it went pop. Glad my hand wasn't on top of the stand. Nothing hurt except for my shorts, very code brown moment. At least when I had a lovely scissor jack fail, I got an audible creaking as a warning (and I still nearly wound up with a rotor embedded in my thigh - I always wonder how the hell I lived through my teen years without losing a limb). ALWAYS use jack stands, with some kind of backup (even if the backup is just a wheel on its side under the control arm). Of course, at the moment, my current jack is the HF "race" jack... 1.5 tons, because they didn't have my 3 ton compact jack in stock, and I was already dropping $70 to replace a $30 jack.  My car weighs almost 2 tons, most of it up front. It's sketchy as hell, but it takes like 3 or 4 pumps to get the car off the ground now. And TBH it's better in every way than the $29 jack it replaced... except for the price.
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Aug 31, 2020 15:59
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Crunchy Black posted:You have more VMs running reliably in your camper than I do in containers in my rack at home. Good poo poo. Gotta ensure those bits get to where they need to go! Its been an ongoing project for a few months now with a lot of dead ends mixed with trial and error. It is on hardware revision #3 at this point. Nuc was too thirsty, and a Pi alternative was a little too wild-west in the support department. SpeedFreek posted:Nice project, I like what you're doing with the electronics. I want to see the test with the full solar capacity installed. You and me both on the solar cap. The solar gets installed asap.The manufacturer sized the panels down a little with the new batch so they'll be kind of easier to work with. I'm still waiting on the last 2 to arrive and the air quality to not be poo poo. It'll be a good test for the solar system while the air is crap but uhh yeah I'm not gonna breathe that poo poo. Truck project goes as follows: Upgrade the computer in the dash(On its way), tires/wheels, airbags(Next), then charging system. (there's some other maintenance bits that go in somewhere). The charging system project is the easiest thing on this list hence being dead last. This schedule should allow us to do another shakedown with full solar on hand and the onboard genny operational. STR posted:
good and sketchy af. That's just like my lovely craftsman jack. It'll lift the truck but baaaarely. Don't stick anything you care about under the vehicle while supported by that jack. nope nope nope.
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Aug 31, 2020 17:13
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I might have missed it earlier in the thread but do you have a sketch of the planned final rooftop layout? You only had the stinkpipe, AC, and vents to work around so you should be able to get some good wattage up there. I wanted to try doing something similar with a truck camper but they're kinda hard to come by around me, besides I'd probably end up with a project like this but run out of patience then time well before you. The thing looks almost finished.
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Aug 31, 2020 20:37
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cursedshitbox posted:good and sketchy af. That's just like my lovely craftsman jack. It'll lift the truck but baaaarely. Don't stick anything you care about under the vehicle while supported by that jack. nope nope nope. To be fair, it has like a 3 foot long handle, and instead of itty bitty pumps with what amounts to a stick, it does CSB size pumps. Guess that's why they call it a "racing" jack. It lifts the back of the car EASY if I lift by the rear diff. Lifting one front wheel on it takes a lot more effort, but it's still easier than the tiny red $29 jack it replaced (and I don't have to get partly under the car to use the drat handle!).
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Sep 1, 2020 06:20
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SpeedFreek posted:I might have missed it earlier in the thread but do you have a sketch of the planned final rooftop layout? You only had the stinkpipe, AC, and vents to work around so you should be able to get some good wattage up there. 900W is measured to fit on the roof. We built a model in sketch-up that was good for iirc 600. After cutting some cardboard templates (from the material the panel shipped in!) and some adjustments we were able to obtain 900W total.  There's one more that goes on the curbside over the bunk. 3 total across the rear with the one by the ladder on a hinge. that's 600W. 3 more panels down the street side in front of the bathroom's roof vent. The new panels that were ordered are dimensionally smaller which will make for greater ease of installation. Except, uh... yeaaah CA is on fire.   Which means hide inside and work on infrastructure! Some of our home networking equpiment made it into the camper. This is inside the pantry. The Unifi AP is mounted in this way to give the maximum propagation for our projects. There'll be some amateur radio devices that'll probably go in here too.  (the pantry gets skinned in when the solar is done, wiring runs through this area) Mountain of effort is completed with the Coulomb counters.  PTFE tubing and wire to form the traces on the pcb ala amateur radio style. And of course, epoxy them.  After the epoxy cures and it is chipped out of its 3d printed mold the device gets conformal coated. The led is there for manual status reporting. Here they are installed but not running under software. https://imgur.com/nWZXPim So the way these work. When the batteries are discharged the lights will be mostly off. When full, mostly on. As they discharge the 3 leds will chase downward in flashing succession. When the Victron is charging the batteries they'll chase upward. The ratio of its on to off time is our indicator for state of charge. Without all the words we're using PWM control and timing to tell us whether the system is charging, discharging, and how much capacity is remaining. Why? In case the infrastructure breaks we still have a way to monitor the system. The best part? These Coulomb counters talk to the server over usb-c running on a serpente board. Which talks to the cellular modem on the roof. Which tunnels to the cloud over WireGuard to our virtual private server. Back into WIreGuard to our home network where we can monitor the power systems. What this means is that we can poll the camper status from anywhere now as long as the camper has GSM/CDMA connectivity. it'll deplete the batteries in 31 hours without solar or shore power.
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Sep 11, 2020 18:08
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The curbside's wiring that is in the bunk required a slightly larger and longer channel which off the shelf parts worked great for.  Where it doesn't work great, 3D printing does. Just like the street side, a few parts are printed and glued into place.  Once the glue dries and you're sure it's not gonna fall apart, twist, warp, or spite you, caulk it.  When you're done taking a caulk bath, take a paint bath! Repaint the details 3-4 times because detail work is hard.  At the back of the camper where the 3d printer lives, two wire shelves are built. One for miscellaneous fabrication parts, one for filament storage.  These are off the shelf generic parts with one small exception. I cut and welded this corner to clear the cover for the tank vent pipe.  Shoot it with some paint and they're ready for installation.  They'll sit on strips of 1x2 that get epoxied to the walls. The bunk will follow a similar design philosophy to allow for modularity in our storage. They're flipped top side down on purpose. It is a concussion prevention system when opening the cabinet doors after a track day. Across from that a magnetic striker is installed next to the stove to hold the bathroom door and to keep it from crashing into the pantry cabinet. Since the striker sticks out about the same distance as the oven door, I shouldn't crash into it often.  Since this thing already weighs more than a planetesimal I'm not concerned with replacing the door to shave 20lb off the camper. I will be going back over it with nicer paint, trim around the mirror and replacing the gold towel holders. Before stepping outside, checkout how nasty the bunk window is from the ash buildup.  Yuck. Really hoping to get the solar finished soon. Outside, the flip-up step is grinding against the bumper ablating the new paint off. These little bumpers will prevent that so long as we don't kick them off. (We probably will. Good things bulk packs)  Bought 8 new latches from our best friend McMaster Carr for the cargo bay hatches. Here's the curbside fitted first.  All 8 are keyed the same. The key loosens the engagement pawl then swings it 90 degrees to clear the aluminum frame. This fulfills the bulbseal's requirement of not being twisted. With the latches fitted, strikers are built up and epoxied into place. The channel isn't designed to bear the brunt of the load, however these strikers are.  While that is going on the hatch is cleaned up with filler epoxy, sanded, and painted with its first coat.  After the epoxy sets for the strikers, the bulbseal is installed.    The hatch is hung then painted on all sides.  While all this sets let's go back inside and knock out a few more things. During the first outing, the bathroom's fan controller almost got knocked into the toilet 2-3 times. Relocating it to this wall should prevent that from happening. Just because Dometic builds a lovely product, doesn't mean it belongs in the toilet.  While on the topic of comfort management. The main fan controller and heater control unit gets installed. This is just a generic home hvac thermostat, however it is capable of running an oil fired heater, which operates the same way as the LP unit in this camper. It also gives us a clock and interior temp. Future upgrade will be to throw a few SSRs in the airconditioner and add controls to the thermostat, and of course, replace the basic thermostat itself.  The camper is mostly air tight enough that both fans will pull a decent vacuum on the camper. It becomes really easy to tell where the leaks are now, though there aren't many left. The fridge leaks like a sieve, no surprise, it is designed to be exposed to the interior of a boat, not the exterior of a camper.  The frame to the body of the fridge is sealed up with tape, then the fridge frame gets caulked before getting screwed back in place. 
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Sep 18, 2020 |
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Sep 18, 2020 23:09
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WOW as always!
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Sep 18, 2020 23:13
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The instant the paint is no longer leaving fingerprints, reassemble as fast as possible. And yeet it into its home.  New fangled Xray tech lets us look behind the scenes and see how the retainers work. You can also see the work in progress that is detail painting.  So that's the curbside.At the epoxy station, hit copy and paste to roughly do the same work better the second time around.  let it quasi dry like the curbside, and slip it into place. There's still more work to do to this side before its done. I am not at all comfortable leaving this bay exposed overnight.  While the door was out, a bulkhead is cut and placed to separate the electrical bay from the cargo bay. Wouldn't want a bean can rolling across a bus bar capable of vaporizing black tank propellant.  No pics so it of course didn't happen. The bulkhead was painted on one side to prevent getting paint on the electrical hardware. This bulkhead gets epoxied in place. Moving to the interior projects. We're using these angled shelf mounts for the racks in the bunk. Reinforcements were cut and they'll be epoxied to the wall, then the whole thing sandwiched together with a screw.   At the same time, shelving supports are cut for the 3d printer cabinet and all of the kitchen cabinets.  And with the wire shelves cut to fit, everything is ready for another epoxy party.  A full round of epoxy in the cargo bay for reinforcements and the bulkhead, followed by an epoxy party for all of the shelving mounts. After that comes paint work and final assembly of the shelving.
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Sep 22, 2020 00:35
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cursedshitbox posted:And yeet it into its home. drat that came out looking clean.
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Sep 23, 2020 16:50
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EVERYWHERE 
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Finish work is all about measuring wrong twice, getting overspray on new brand new parts, turning sealant into a mess of babyshit, that sorta thing. It's a slow tedious process however fun. Starting with the bunk, some fresh carpet. This will prevent condensation from forming on our bedding, provide a nice place to hang out, add a little insulation to the bunk, and dampen the echo.   In the 3d printer bay the epoxy party starts. First, remove the printer because it is geometrically impossible to install the shelves with the printer in place. Cut it close, glue and screw.  After it dries, paint it.  While the gray paint is out, hit the unpainted spot in the curbside cargo bay  Wait for the paint to kind of dry then reassemble the 3d printer cabinet.  Aside from cabinet doors and fastening the shelves down, this cabinet is completed. Since the bathroom door is staying, it is repainted to the semi-gloss that the rest of the interior is.  There is a missing piece of trim that needs to be built up, epoxied in place, then painted.   Round two epoxy.  Kitchen shelf frames epoxied and screwed into place.  In the bunk the shelf supports are epoxied as well.  When they dry, hit it all with a couple coats of paint.     On the backside of the bathroom door is some brass towel holders that I so lazily painted over. New towel holders were bent up with .250" thick stainless rod.   Kitchen shelving assembled and ready.  Side project! Both LP tanks refilled.  New tail lights arrived. Without much thought They were reconfigured for center reverse, instead of being off to one side.  Same manufacturer. They flipped the housings 90 degrees. Of course.  Some old debris buried inside and 2 sheets of ply that support the LP tanks above the genny.  Soo since they don't work. Strip both sets down. Sand and repaint the old frames then fit the new LED bulbs.  While that happens, set the housings up for epoxy so that the new lights sit flush to the camper's body.  Building up the new lights.  Then install.  Outside the front nose cap and a bunch of random trim still have moldy old silicone on it. That's gotta go.    This is all pretty labor intensive however it doesn't put up much of a fight. It's a zen kinda project.      I've had a terrible time trying to keep the rubber window seals seated. Got fed up and exercised 4200 on them which is why you see the painters tape on the seals. Lastly, the dinette shelf trim finisher is installed. 
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Sep 26, 2020 23:00
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Just CRUISIN along on this man. Good work. Who makes those lights? Looking to upgrade my flatbed tails since they're the dimmest oldest part.
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Sep 27, 2020 01:24
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Bargman 84/85 series. I reassembled all the leftovers into a working set. Want em?
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Sep 27, 2020 01:30
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That thing is going to end up more solidly built than a brand new luxury class A pusher. Great work as always.
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Sep 27, 2020 01:45
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cursedshitbox posted:Bargman 84/85 series. I reassembled all the leftovers into a working set. Want em? Thanks but that'd be too big I think, and I would have to work the mounting too much to get what I wanted. I just wanted a closer look. Edit; really I just need box lights but I still cannot believe an LED box light is worth $55 each. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Sep 27, 2020 |
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Sep 27, 2020 07:14
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csb your attention to detail is astounding.
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Sep 27, 2020 10:43
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StormDrain posted:Thanks but that'd be too big I think, and I would have to work the mounting too much to get what I wanted. I just wanted a closer look. You can get whole giant off road light bars for that on AMZ now what are you looking for?
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Sep 27, 2020 10:58
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Your work looks excellent and the level of finish you are getting on the thing looks amazing!
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Sep 27, 2020 16:11
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man, what an incredible job you guys have done.
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Sep 27, 2020 16:21
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everdave posted:You can get whole giant off road light bars for that on AMZ now what are you looking for? I think you misunderstood what I meant by box light, I mean the ubiquitous multi-function S/T/T/R/Reflector and License plate light. Well there we go: https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-80685-Universal-Combination-Flatbed-2/dp/B072VS66SK/ So every time I went looking for these LED combination STT lights I always got ones that were like $55 a piece, and I always felt like I'd turn around one day and find them for $20 each. I guess today is that day. As far as 'off road light bars' go I don't like them for the style of truck, I think they look out of place. If anything I'd get KC lights because they're so iconic to me, but I don't drive the truck in the dark nearly often enough to justify it. Part of the issue is I don't want to do the whole project of wiring up the relay and switch for it, and fabricate brackets.
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Sep 28, 2020 03:38
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I'm not a huge fan of lightbars on old trucks, doesn't look right. Also opinionated on the light 99.7% of those things throw. Pods are fine. LED all the running lights though. The tape is peeled off the windows with a passable result on seal adhesion. Fine for now.  More Dometic abuse. The main fan won't raise or lower.  Pulled it apart, motor is getting power, put it back together, worked fine. Magic. It'll surely break again. Probably when the weather is pouring. An indoor swimming pool would be nice anyway. Thanks Dometic. Bathroom door caulked and its rehab is completed.   While the caulk is out, hit the newly finished trim finisher on the dinette.    It's a nice material to bang your head on as well. Not quite the staple laden gaudy fabric that used to be there, but it'll do. This area is completed. Changing the tube out to 4200. There's a gap between the counters and the wall. Its a half mix of half-inch tolerances and wiggle room as the coach twerks down the highway on broken steel belts. This rv is made of 4200 and epoxy, this sorta wiggle room isn't needed.  4200 gets laid deep into this gap with a bead of finishing caulk over it so that it looks nice. 4200 is a pain to work with and generally doesn't set up as nice as the caulk will for interior finish work.  The wall is pushed out a little, and at the same time the bead is laid. The bathroom's mini counter was a lot easier with its uniform half inch gap.  After the 4200 cures solid overnight, go back over it with caulk.   To get the bathroom basically finished, it needs a towel rack.  I found this hotel style one where our clothes could be set up top while in the shower and our towels hung on the racks itself. It's way overpriced for what it is however I was not interested in manufacturing one. It even came with templates to make this a 3 beer job.  And installed.  They're placed in some 'dead space' in the bathroom, and mounted high enough that I won't bang my shoulder into them trying to pee. While I'm wrecking the bathroom coat hooks get installed by the entry way.  And bunk shelving is done.     The bunk will be completed with the installation of the front window shade.
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Sep 28, 2020 18:23
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You gonna try to fit a subwoofer in there somewhere? Otherwise that's gonna be a lot of highs and mids 
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Sep 28, 2020 19:06
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Applebees Appetizer posted:You gonna try to fit a subwoofer in there somewhere? Otherwise that's gonna be a lot of highs and mids a 10" sub is slated to go where the old converter charger is. The amp from a few pages back has a dedicated output for it.
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Sep 28, 2020 19:35
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Just looks absolutely amazing such great work!
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Sep 28, 2020 23:57
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cursedshitbox posted:More Dometic abuse. Phrasing
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Sep 29, 2020 19:10
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The last window shade gets installed in a few parts. First a pair of Aluminum L channel is bonded to the frame with 4200.  When that dries, cut the blind to fit and install.    Edge finisher made from flat strap. Of course the angle of the shade is not parallel to the window, or the interior of the coach for that matter. A single shade works however kind of fiddly. Gonna come back to this project later on. In the kitchen, the microwave and stove backsplash are installed.  Of course the new microwave is smaller than the old one, and no decent off the shelf one would fit, so RV specific parts were the only way to go. New mounts were made from scrap wood and epoxy. The backsplash is installed with 4200 because why not? Part of the specification for the backsplash is that it must be magnetic.  I have north of 50 spices in my spice drawer, They're coming along. I gave the awning away on craigslist, and now the holes that remain get to be filled with epoxy.   Medium thickness mix, shoot it into the void with a syringe. When this cures, go over it with caulk, then paint. Just like this.  All done. Moving on. The main entry way, dinette, and bunk shelf carpet is cut and laid into place exerting the old carpeter's rule of cut it wrong and kick it into place.   After trimming a new border is installed onto the carpet to keep it from unraveling. There's a specific type of hot-melt glue for this kind of operation which makes it significantly easier than sewing.   The main carpet still needs a border installed. Which means pulling the bathroom door since there's barely enough clearance.  While its out I'll roll in some height adjustments so it doesn't drag on the carpet. Revisiting the bunk window shade, a second shade is acquired and cut to size then bonded in place.  They'll rely on neodymium magnets to locate the shades at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and fully closed. There's also some trim finishers to go in that'll block the light.   To avoid dusting the shade from rubbing on the aluminum, kapton tape is placed on the inside of the L channel for the shade to slide on. 5 of the 9 solar panels are installed. Ran out of hardware so more is on the way. Hopefully the smoke holds out.  Finished off the     Little bleed over from the truck thread, as you see new tires and wheels are installed. Weight is no longer an issue.
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Oct 7, 2020 00:00
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My God what I would love to see you do to 2 of my big campers that are actually in great shape. With treatment like this they’d both be worth double at least what I’m asking! Hate to repeat it over and over but it all looks amazing
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Oct 7, 2020 01:11
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If you're so inclined, where are you picking your pookie up from? I know you're smarter than to pay West Marine prices but I hear if you're not buying in bulk, Gougeon Bros won't sell direct anymore. Luckily I have a sweet rear end Port Supply hookup else I'd never get anything fiberglass related done lol
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Oct 7, 2020 03:46
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drat that looks good, and the sky isn't red anymore. I really want to check it out next time work drags me out that way and its safe to do so.
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Oct 8, 2020 03:14
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Crunchy Black posted:If you're so inclined, where are you picking your pookie up from? I know you're smarter than to pay West Marine prices but I hear if you're not buying in bulk, Gougeon Bros won't sell direct anymore. West Marine They're pricey however reliable and get supplies to us fast. SpeedFreek posted:drat that looks good, and the sky isn't red anymore. I really want to check it out next time work drags me out that way and its safe to do so. Hell yeah when this all passes you or goons, etc are welcome to check it out. Dometic wants $40 for a jack handle that operates the lift jacks when they invariably fail like all things Dometic. My luck the handle will break. So I made my own using some scrap metal and 3/8" hex from an allen wrench. This can be driven with a drill or hand tools.   Threshold installed onto the blinds, there's less light transmission now.  The panels that comprise the back and base of the pantry cabinet were unacceptable in quality, new ones are cut and painted.  And gently sledgehammered into place. This is an access hatch so these panels pop out with relative ease.  The next segment here is to build the slide out drawer assembly. More on questionable quality products, the rear ladder. It's maybe manufactured for a 60lb child, much less clumsy goons. Not that we'll really ever use this thing. It's to ensure the bikes mounted on the now installed bike rack never fall off. The ladder mounts are reinforced with epoxy, then stainless screws + 4200 are driven into the curing epoxy creating a very solid ladder.  The last thing to do to the exterior of the cargo bays is to paint the aluminum trim. The doors are pulled and wrapped so that the finish on them goes undamaged. Standard aluminum prepwork here. Wetsand with 400, + self etching primer for a few layers + wetsanding, + beer + wetsanding + beer + beer + scraping paint, etc.   Let it cure overnight. Then hit it with 5 coats of paint waiting a day or two after the first couple coats.  Detail shot of the generic solar panel mounts. More on this in a few.  7 panels installed, 3 wired in.  And the last, with 9 now installed, and 6 wired in. These panels were ordered in batches, the second batch is a revised model that is physically slightly smaller, allowing us to flip the brackets out, instead of having them under the panel. This made installing the last few panels a breeze compared to the first few. While physically different they are electrically compatible with each other.     I promise the roof isn't normally "bro truck gray". To get the last 300W operational, more wire is in the mail. Not that it matters right now anyway.   This is a 3S3P system. Starting at the bunk on the curbside, the one tilted forward and the two behind it are on one string. The 3 at the very back near the entrance are on the second string. Both of these go to the primary solar MPPT controller. The third string runs the length of the street side from the bathroom's vent to the modem's bubble. This runs on the auxiliary MPPT controller. Printing parts for the bunk shade on solar power with real time electrical stats of the entire coach.  This is a 13" e-ink tablet, it'll be the primary systems display in the camper.
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Oct 11, 2020 23:46
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