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Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Im thinking of making a brigade of the following:

1x Voltigeurs or Chasseurs as a small scouting and screening force

2x Infantererie De Ligne

1x Old or Middle Guard

Let me know if this brigade is good.

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Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Grey Hunter posted:

Yeah 1500 for the whole team. Commanders are on average level 8 and therefore 80 points.

I'm a tad rusty on BP rules:

1. Which edition are you using?

2. I can't remember but does every brigade need a commander or can a commander command multiple brigades

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I don't wanna be the level 4 commander but if we gotta do a few I guess I'll volunteer.

Also what time period are we doing? I don't want to build a smoothbore musket brigade if Redfor is gonna be bringing out breech loaders or bolt actions.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

koolkevz666 posted:

If this is based on the same era as the Black Powder table top game from warlord games which it might be even may actually be? Then this is probably Napoleon era fighting.

The two main roles for cavalry will be scouting and charging weakened or out of place infantry units and possibly artillery batteries if we can out flank them. Therefore I suggest we don't spend too many points on the cavalry, our main fighting will likely come from the infantry and artillery.

Also do we have an agreed consensus on what nation to base our force off for names or can we just mix and match whatever we feel like?

Black Powder covers all the way up to like 1890s IIRC. It has rules for breech loaders and bolt actions.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

koolkevz666 posted:

Ah thank you for the clarification.

Even machineguns!

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I think we should have a full light cavalry brigade of 3-4 squadrons of something like Hussars or Chasseur a Cheval, and the other have a reduced brigade of heavy cavalry like Cuirassiers, Dragoons, or Lancers. Maybe 2 squadrons, 3 at most of Heavy.

Our infantry should be cheap and plentiful, keeping guards/grenadiers, even skirmishers, to a minimum.

I like the idea of our artillery commander having something akin to a full Grand Battery to support the infantry.

Strategy wise we should use our light cavalry to scout and more importantly to feint and force the enemy to either deploy to our advantage or deploy slowly. Light cavalry should also be used to intercept other cavalry. Heavy Cavalry should support the infantry; attacking skirmishers where possible but otherwise attacking weak or disordered infantry units at key points along the line. Artillery should also help fulfill this purpose, hammering on their larger or more elite units or units at key points in a focused barrage.

Black Powder puts heavy emphasis on morale. The more units we disorder the better, and we should focus on disorder where possible and then go for the kill. This means that we poke holes in their lines so we can double up infantry battalions against theirs. In my previous black powder the games the the whole grand strategy usually takes a back seat to by-the-numbers one/two punches of infantry and cavalry.

Phi230 fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jun 30, 2020

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Blue Team Team Building Exercise: Let's Play Scourge of War Waterloo

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
So the strategy then is to have mixed brigades?

In that case I'll propose my brigade as the following:

1x Light Cavalry (chasseur a cheval)

2x Infantry of Line

1x Middle Guard, to keep costs down

1x Brigade Commander at 6 or 7 skill?

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Im gonna reread the rules tomorrow but if I remember correctly stamina is incredibly important as it measures how many casualties you can before a risk of routing or being destroyed

With regards to that infantry brigade I feel we can maybe add another skirmish company and standard infantry battalion. Might be too expensive but I feel at least one reinforced brigade as a shock force would be good

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Excellent post but knowing BP rules I might favor less reliance on mass artillery. Artillery is good, but if we are going to do Grand Battery we need heavy hitters before I feel they're reliable. Like 12 pounder napoleons and having 6-8 of them. poo poo, bigger the better, give me 6 24 pounders behind me and ill feel good as an infantry commander.A good strategy under this rules regime ive found is to pin enemy battalions with an infantry battalion of your own, then when the time is right, charge with a second, more elite infantry battalion in column.


Also do not forget special rules. An elite infantry battalion may have marginally better stats but one or two special rules turn them into a fearsome force to be reckoned with on the tabletop.

Phi230 fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Jul 1, 2020

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

koolkevz666 posted:

Be aware my cavalry units don't have the Heavy Cavalry rule but I could drop their hand to hand to 8 and pick up the Heavy Cavalry rule.

For clarification Grey what does the Heavy Cavalry special rule do?

It gives a pretty good bonus to charging or counter-charging. Very offensive focused rule.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
120eme Brigade d'Infanterie de Pays Fictiff

General de Brigade Jean Valjean l'Heureux - Level 7 - 70 points

14eme Bataillon de Guerre - Infanterie de Ligne - 36 points - Standard size infantry battalion

Smoothbore Musket
HTH - 6
SH - 3
Morale - 4+ (3 levels)
Stam - 3

Special rules:
Form Square (Form Square when charged by cavalry)

25eme Bataillon de Guerre - Infanterie de Ligne - 36 points - Standard size infantry battalion

Smoothbore Musket
HTH- 6
SH -3
Morale - 4+ (3 levels)
Stam 3

Form Square (Form Square when Charged by cavalry)

12eme Bataillon de Guerre - Infanterie de Ligne - 36 points - Standard size infantry battalion

Smoothbore Musket
HTH -6
SH- 3
Morale - 4+ (3 levels)
Stam 3

Form Square (Forms Square when charged by cavalry)


33eme Bataillon de Guerre - Vieille Garde 'Les Grognards' - 41 Points -Old Guard Grenadiers Standard size

Smoothbore Musket
HTH - 7
SH - 3
Morale - 3+ (4 levels)
Stam 3

Form Square (Can form square/Forms square when charged by cavalry)
Elite 4+ (Overcome disorder at a roll of 4+)
Reliable (+1 Command)

42eme Bataillon de Guarre - Infanterie Legere - 30 Points - Voltigeurs small size

Rifled Muskets
HTH - 4
SH - 2
Morale - 4+ (3 levels)
Stam - 2

Sharpshooters (Re-roll one missed shot)
Skirmishers (Can enter skirmish formation)


Total - 249 Points.

Let me know how this brigade works out.

TLDR; 3 infantry battalions, 1 guard battalion, 1 rifle company. I can shave off an easy 10/20 points by adjusting Jean Valjean The Happy down a peg or two.

Phi230 fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Jul 2, 2020

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

koolkevz666 posted:

How does morale work when pointing up? Does it start at 6+ and every 4 points means you down a number so from 6+ to 5+ for 4 points? Just I think I may have over priced my morale which could give me more points to spare?

Yes you're correct. You start at 6 which means when you roll for morale you only roll a 6 to succeed. Every step down is one level. So a morale of 3+ is 4 levels (3,4,5,6).

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

koolkevz666 posted:

And I priced my cavalry for 7 levels of morale so uh I think I have some points spare what's the lowest morale you can go to 1+?

Yes lowest is 1.

You should add some special rules - napoleonic stuff comes with special rules by default for free I think. Heavy Cavalry and Elite 4+ at least.

For the comedy option give one of your Heavy Cav units the Fanatic trait. It means you get reroll attacks during a charge and any unit you charge has to make a break roll. Meaning you can insta-destroy units if you're lucky.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
So what country are we? Or are we just making one up?

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Stamina correlates to unit size. 2 for small, 3 for standard, 4 for large. It is "free"

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Jimmy4400nav posted:

9 Touffe d'Infanterie

Commander: 4 [40]



Brigadier Colonel-Major Rafael Röquefört had a humble upbringing as the 8th son of a 15 children family, living in his family's quaint 57 room countryside manor. Making due with a mere three servants, he scrapped and worked around the estates working to simply be a humble taster of the provincial goods produced for his family. Hungry for adventure, he saved every bullion bar he worked hard to be given from his meager allowance to purchase a commission of command in the local battalions. His magnificent poise and presence will surly motivate his men to victory!


5th Braconniers Royaux
Type: Chasseur
Size: Small [8]
Stamina: 2
Morale: 4 [16]
H2H: 3 [3]
Shooting: 6 (Bolt Action Rifles) [36]
Special Rules: Scout/Skirmishers
Total Points: 63

Due to a long standing technicality in the rules regarding hunting on royal lands, no-one legally was allowed to hunt in noble designated forests, regardless of their station. Not wishing to resort to consuming provincial meats, the nobility of quickly began to outfit illegal hunting units to scour the woods for the finest of creatures to consume. However, given the limited supply and the status of having their poachers bring in bracers of food, the hunters quickly began to skirmish with one another, which resulted in them being outfitted with better and better weapons to assist in their hunts.

33rd Royal Fusiliers Syrah, 33rd Royal Fusiliers Le-Blanc, 33rd Royal Fusiliers Grenache
Type: Line
Size: Standard [12]
Stamina 3
Morale 3 [12]
H2H: 3 [3]
Shooting: 3 (Smoothbore Musket) [6]
Total: 99 [33 each]

The Merlot brothers wanted to command a glorious infantry company to earn glory for themselves and their family. However, each one wanted to have their own battalion to be the 33rd due it being their favorite numbers. Since no-one was willing to give up the number, their dream of a company died, and instead three 33rd Royal Fusilier companies emerged.

Total points [202]

I wanted to try and make just 2 line companies and have a 3rd be a melee only penitent battalion, but for stamina and morale it took too many points, and I didn't want to waste our precious points on a joke.

Good start but:

Your morale for the 33rd fusiliers should be 4+, and your morale for 5th Bracconiers should be 3+. Also, there isn't a Scout special rule. I would recommend Sharp-Shooter rule instead.

Also I would recommend ALL of our line infantry, division wide, have the Form Square special rule or else we are gonna get mulched by cavalry. I pray Redfor forgets this, and will be vulnerable to our heavy cavalry.

I'd also heavily remind our Heavy Cavalry commander to essentially use their cavalry like tanks - supported by infantry. Think of it more as combined arms, hammer and anvil style.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Also, in the event the enemy does bring Form Square infantry - this is to our advantage.

Our cavalry commanders can do false charges IIRC to force enemies to form square. The enemy then is extremely vulnerable to infantry attack. IF we stick to combined arms fighting this would be an excellent tactic.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Jimmy4400nav posted:

Edited my post, my point total went up to 213, so if you need me to shave off an extra ten, I can make my commander rank 3, it'd fit the character if nothing else.

No you still misunderstand. 3 levels of morale, at 12 points, is a stat of 4+. 4 levels of morale, at 16 points, is a stat of 3+.

You also should really, really not take a rank 4 commander. On a 2d6 that means you will only be able to issue orders about less than 20% of the time.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I'm reading the scenario lists for Black Powder 2nd edition and French do get access to Mamelukes

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Again a morale of 4+ is only 12 points. A morale of 4+ is only 3 levels of morale. Your scout cavalry is wasting 4 points!

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

El Spamo posted:

Hm?
Sorry, the guides posted so far don't give any insight on how morale works, so assumed it starts at 0 and it's 4 points per level up from there. The fact that it's 4+ seems to mean that it's a roll-over vs. roll-under, but 'average' is 5+ so maybe it starts at 6 and goes down. That's if is it a d6 that is used for morale and it's a roll-over value kinda like how armor checks work in warhammer? But if 4+ morale is only three levels then that means that the lowest morale is either 7+ or (for a d6) "no" morale which means that the 6+ level isn't free.

In short, sure I'm wasting points but I don't know if putting them somewhere else is good, bad, or neutral. Do I want 4+? Should I adjust the value for points spent to be 3+/5+?

Also, Grey, can you update the first post with some of these clarifications? It's spread out all over the place.

Morale is our hit-save. When we take casualties, we roll morale to negate casualties. It is a roll-over with 1d6. So the worst value is 6, with the exception of a value of 0, which means no morale save is allowed at all. So realistically speaking we'll all wanna spend the base 4 points on getting 6 morale at the very least.

Average morale is 4+ meaning on a roll of 4, 5, or 6 we negate a hit.

You asked about special rules: I'll post some suggestions:

Superbly Drilled is a rule that lets your units move even if you failed a command roll. I think this is useful for scout cavalry.

Phi230 fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Jul 2, 2020

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Here's a quick rules explainer:


Shooting score is the number of dice you roll when you open fire. So a value of 3, you roll 3 dice. The target number is (almost) always a 4. On a 4, 5, and 6 you hit.

Morale is the saving throw. So a morale value of 4 means you have to roll a 4, 5, or 6 to negate a hit.

If you fail to negate a hit you take a casualty.

If you casualties are equal to or greater than your stamina you become SHAKEN. Shaken units take a variety of penalties to shooting, movement, command, etc... but more importantly they must make a BREAK TEST.

Break tests don't necessarily mean catastrophe. Break test results include retreats or withdrawal, and of course routing from the field.

Hand To Hand value is the number of dice you roll in hand to hand combat, same deal with shooting with the target number being 4. There are some more rules surrounding hand to hand which I can elaborate if anyone asks, because its a bit more involved. Especially cavalry charges.

On a roll of a natural 6 in shooting or hand to hand combat gives the target the DISORDERED state. Disordered units cannot be given commands and are given steep penalties to movement, shooting, and breaking.


Your commander's rating, 1-10, correlates to a 2d6 roll. You must roll equal to or less than your commander rating to successfully issue an order. To issue an order you must clearly identify the unit to be ordered, the commander giving the order, and clearly (and hopefully concisely) state the order to be given and how, where it is to be executed. Example: Jean Valjean orders 25eme Batallion advance to the treeline and deploy in line. Entire brigades can be given orders, not just individual battalions - this is called a Brigade Order. So you'd say Jean Valjean orders 120th Briagade move to X and deploy in attack column.

Orders include movement, changing formation, and charging into hand to hand combat. Shooting does not require an order.

If you roll better than your command score your units receive up to 3 extra moves. For example, if you have a 7 command and roll a 5, you get 2 moves. If you roll a 4 you get 3 moves.

Your commanders have a command radius - and your commanders can only command units assigned to them, IE, their brigade. You can issue orders to the whole brigade, or to each battalion individually, rolling for command one after the other.

If you fail the command roll your attempt to order that battalion or brigade is done. Units in march column, square, limbered artillery, and units with Superbly Drilled are all allowed a free move even if the command roll is failed.

If you roll a 12, that is to say, a double 6 (boxcars) you blunder. If you fail to meet the oral/written requirements for an order, you blunder. Do not blunder, it is bad. This is the command equivalent to a critical failure and bad things will happen to you.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
So I would remove the shooting score. Swords and pistols are usually an abstraction of hand to hand combat and normally give you an improved hand to hand score. I'd go up to 12 hand to hand. Unless of course you want to be an incredible troll with an 8 shooting skill and quickly run in, shoot 8 dice worth of attacks, and leave. Very hit and run style, but remember under these rules such things might not always be possible. You might end your move and get stuck within 12" of an enemy unit which can be bad news.

It depends what you want out of your cavalry. If you want to remain a scout unit I'd recommend special rules like Superbly Drilled to keep your units highly mobile.

If you want to be combat beasts, like your hand to hand, morale, and size allow you to be; I would then recommend some special rules focused around combat which I'll list below. Tactically speaking, if you choose this route, you should be focused on intercepting enemy cavalry and opportunistically flanking weakened enemy units.

Special rules recommendations for combat:

Bloodthirsty (Re-roll misses on the first round of combat)

Crack (reroll one failed morale save if you have no casualties)

Stubborn (re-roll one failed morale save)

Tough Fighters (re-roll a missed combat attack)

Terrifying charge (charged enemy must take a break test)

Ferocious charge (re-roll misses on combat following a charge)

Fanatics (Terrifying charge + ferocious charge)

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

El Spamo posted:

So, with superbly drilled, it sounds like I could do the shoot & scoot action by relying on the fact that I'll *always* have a movement available. Not sure if that's how it works though.

Anyway, to help you help me, here's what I had in mind for my light cavalry.

Light horse, so not meant to get stuck in and stay there, but very much a hit-and-run style group. Break up into small to tiny units to scout, and then reform to attack vulnerable units or flanking charges, disengaging (if possible?) from prolonged combat in order to go exploit some other vulnerability. Having that shooting score meant that I could surprise a unit that's just a bit too far away for melee engagement with a volley at short range, e.g. they're just a bit too far to charge so move in an shoot. If they're disrupted then charge them to exploit the vulnerability, otherwise run away.

If they had a flag, there'd be a rabbit on it.

I'm not sure if there are ways to *not* make them combat capable, after all that's kind of the point. Even scouts can be dangerous once they mass up into a combat formation, and not the little lookie-loo formations.

I do like your recommendation of bumping up the melee value. Just absolute hell-monsters in hand to hand. However, I may also bump up the commander value since as scouts they may need some real fine-tuned handling, and the range they operate at means reduced commander skill due to that distance (if I've read Grey's first few posts right), so maybe having that a bit higher would be a good idea.

I'm still not clear on the specials though. Some of them are strict upgrades to the others (re-roll one failed morale w/o casualties vs. re-roll one failed morale... the latter is obviously better) so I'm guessing there must be some cost to them.

Of them, I do like Terrifying charge, Ferocious Charge, and Stubborn/Crack. All those seem to suit a mobile, quick-hitting force that's meant to disrupt a formation. The front-runner though is still superbly drilled. Any word if specials are going to be used at all though?

So with regards to command - yes it would be a good idea to increase command value but you can also have a mounted commander that can easily move with your brigade. Not sure how that works out in points though.

So I kept looking and unfortunately shoot and scoot is not on the menu for us, I'm afraid. The sequence of play is Movement > Shooting > hand to hand. Meaning if you move and shoot you leave your unit vulnerable to return fire.

The rules also have a first player and second player. It is likely we will be the first player because we are blue (it goes blue then red in the rules). So if you do move and shoot you will be stuck. If we moved second, however, it would be more than viable for you to be able to react but still you'll have a possibility of return fire if Redfor decides to attack you on the following turn.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
3 batteries meaning what? 2 guns per battery?

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
So thats just essentially the hit points of the unit. So that regiment only has 3 guns.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I guess since I'm the largest brigade I can deploy in the center in a column by brigade

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Lemme plan

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
A scale for the map would be cool

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
We should send one of the scout cavalry squadrons and one full infantry brigade to the west side of the river to secure the crossing and that flank. Two of the infantry brigades, the other light cavalry squadron, and the heavy cavalry brigade should follow the river on the east side. In my mind we can have my brigade make up the "center" and the remaining infantry brigade make up the right flank. The heavy cavalry brigade should cover our right flank and work in concert with the right-infantry brigade to erode them on the right flank.

We should focus the artillery in the center such that it can cover as much of the battlefield as it can. I'd rather have at least one battery covering my brigade and one battery covering the right flank so we can wheel them up and trap them against the river/river crossing where we will have that light cav squadron and infantry brigade as I said above.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Keep in mind that movement depends on orders rolls. We could have an issue where brigades are out of sync because of the rolls, either rolling too good or rolling too bad. We should make sure we deploy in March Column such that we always get free moves and at least try to move in sync.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

BadgerRat posted:

I do good drawing as you can see.



I like this plan except the poo poo on the right side should start on the right side of the river and move along the road

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I do not think we should enter the towns.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

BadgerRat posted:

My thought was that then we risk defeat in detail considering how far away that road on the right of the river is.

Its not that far, its only 12'' which is one movement for infantry. Remember these are full brigades we are working with. A single battalion has a frontage of about 7-10 inches. Meaning my brigade alone laid out in a line is about 30-40 inches wide.

The road would also allow us to move extremely quickly to deploy.



Units in buildings are treated like they are in square formation. Meaning they are severely limited in shooting. They are only slightly harder to hit/kill but at the same time you are vulnerable to having the building set on fire or shelled by artillery.

Moving our units into the town would make them harder to dislodge but the enemy would just flank us and shell us until we were dead. We have to stay mobile to keep a coherent line.

Phi230 fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Jul 8, 2020

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I'm not against occupying the town but realize it'll essentially have to be a rock with cavalry support.

My brigade would have to be between the river crossing and the town and hold the center with artillery support. My brigade will be stretched into a single line with no reserves. Its not a bad defensive strategy, but be aware of the risks you're exposing the infantry brigades to by having them occupy a town and have the strategic risk of being flanked in your mind as well, and also the risks of my brigade being stretched thin with no reserves. We'd need strong flank support but also strong support for the center.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Shoeless posted:

Hmm, unfortunate that towns don't provide the survivability I hoped they would. Curse you game mechanics! In that case, I think garrisoning the river crossing town is still viable, since we can have our artillery firing in support from across the river. And not every brigade need occupy the town, indeed I think it would be prudent to deploy some to the woods north of the town to deal with any potential enemy flank from that direction. The town would act essentially as a strongpoint for the center of our line, but we'd have infantry on either side of it, and our cavalry prepared to punish enemy forces who focus on it without protecting their own flanks.

I would suggest using skirmishers in woods. We should all advance with skirmishers ahead of our brigades anyway, but when the battle lines are set we should pivot them to the woods. Skirmishers benefit greatly from woods.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
After some thinking I'm feeling if we're going defensive then occupying buildings isn't a bad idea. It could lure the enemy into trying an attack which would lock them down and make them vulnerable to cavalry and artillery but our infantry wouldn't be doing the heavy lifting when it comes to actually inflicting losses.

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Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I'm torn. I think we should do A though.

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