|
I was riding around on my ebike and a peddle just came completely off, stripped the thread and everything. I was miles away from my home/car. Thankfully I just throttled my way back home. Put me down as one of those incredibly greatful for my e-bike.
|
#
¿
Jul 26, 2020 21:46
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 01:57 |
|
|
stephenthinkpad posted:What model is this? https://united-city-bikes.com/eng/ Honestly, don't buy it. The lack of any gearing and the inability to put any cargo on it has been less than ideal. It also lags behind the pedaling and matching your power output. kimbo305 posted:Are you gonna have to replace the crank? Yeah it's completely hosed.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 27, 2020 02:54
|
|
|
It's nothing really special. It's just a series of lithium cells with a charge controller. Cracking it open will void your warranty however.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 20, 2020 23:44
|
|
|
Man I wish the Brompton electric bike was better. It has a terrible user interface to control the motor, especially at it's price point.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 21, 2020 17:59
|
|
|
Those look like power pole connectors. The gauge of the wire that you need is determined by the amount of amps going through it and the length of the run. It's very dependent upon your specific instance. Do you know the length and amps that will be needed?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 30, 2020 02:42
|
|
|
CopperHound posted:Here is good information on various connectors: https://ebikes.ca/learn/connectors.html This is probably your easiest solution. It’s a sufficient gauge (you probably only need 16 gauge so this is more than you need) for your load and has the Anderson power poles already connected. You would need a special crimping tool to attach it correctly normally which would probably cost $20-$30. Then you can just solder the pigtails onto the existing wires and wrap it in self-amalgamating tape to ensure that it’s a waterproof connection. You can also go with the bullet connector but you may need a crimping tool for that. It would have the advantage of being able to be disconnected more easily if you need to in the future. Since it’ll already has a disconnecting point at the Anderson power poles that may not be necessary. Nitrousoxide fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Dec 30, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Dec 30, 2020 13:27
|
|
|
If you're going to do more than one or two here are the items I would recommend so you can make the wires yourself. I've done it myself since I am a ham radio operator and Anderson power poles are pretty much the standard connector for everything we use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y9KPFLT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSQPTDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_1Cn7Fb322YQWF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1u https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016U4CBUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_7En7Fb3NH3CHW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And then the appropriately sized wire for your job. You can make do with either braided copper or solid copper wire. The latter is a little bit easier to work with with the crimping tool. But I've used both.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 30, 2020 20:41
|
|
|
Been using my Swytch kit on my Brompton for a couple of weeks now, and I really like it. It makes the hills around where I live MUCH nicer, and I've actually taken this thing out to go shopping, something I basically never did before I converted it. I got the bigger battery pack (180Wh/~30 km), but that's still on the lower end of most ebike battery capacities, so I need to be kind of frugal with the motor usage. Still, even just using the motor for climbing the big rear end hill leading to my house and when I need to ride with traffic makes the bike way more usable than it was before. I'm still shifting gears and using my legs for the majority of my ride. It's got a bit of rolling resistance, being a direct drive motor. But I previously had a dynamo on this bike, so it's really not much more/any more than I'm used to. The placement of the battery connector means that the prime real estate for a phone and water holder is taken up. I've ordered a stem mount and mount that should make better use of the limited real estate available. I'll also be replacing my existing dynamo powered front light with a mount and battery powered one since it no longer works for lack of a power source.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2023 18:26
|
|
|
I've tried both hub and mid-drive motors. I think mid-drive ones pretty universally use torque sensors these days so you're hard pressed to get the worse experience with a cadence sensor there. A hub motor + torque is really quite close to mid-drive in feel. It has the added benefit of also allowing the use of a throttle which mid-drives can't do. Mid-drives do have the benefit of getting to use the gearing of the bike to even out the torque requirements, so I'd imagine wear on the motor and frame will probably be less over time.
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2023 18:35
|
|
|
acidx posted:Am I misunderstanding your point here, because mid-drives can definitely have throttles too. I dunno how you'd do that without the ability to freewheel the pedals forward, so they aren't swinging around wildly while under throttle.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2023 18:35
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 01:57 |
|
|
The Wiggly Wizard posted:Sounds like you need a bike with a double battery option. or a removable battery that you can charge at your work for the return trip.
|
|
#
¿
May 21, 2023 16:59
|
|