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PuErhTeabag
Sep 2, 2018
I'm in the process of attempting to build my own packraft.

Inspired by DIY Packraft, but having more time than money, I decided to come up with my own design.

At this point, I've obtained fabric (from Seattle Fabrics), proved that I can weld it acceptably, created a design in CAD software, and built a 1/8 scale model that doesn't look too terrible. I'm roughly following the dimensions of the Alpacka classic.

Some shots of my paper model V1:





I've since created a V2 design that reduces some of the bow and stern air volume because I don't need a 400 lb capacity for this specific craft. Please ignore the gaps between some tubes, it's really hard to constrain these goofy shaped pieces.



I'll post more pictures as I get further along. Right now I'm cutting paper templates for the tube segments, which is kind of tedious.

Total investment so far is about $100 of fabric, a $20 Aliexpress leather iron, and quite a few hours. My biggest concern (besides somehow screwing up the design) is that the fabric I purchased is inferior and something will blow out.

Long term the plan is to go use this one for a year or until it breaks and apply those lessons to the next model. I'd like to incorporate a zipper into a future model, so I can stow things inside the raft tubes themselves.

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PuErhTeabag
Sep 2, 2018

PokeJoe posted:

Woah that looks cool as hell. I'd never even considered building my own inflatable. It seems like some arcane magic

If you want to make one yourself and only use use about half the arcane magic, this website sells kits: https://www.diypackraft.com/

They are very cost effective compared to an Alpacka or other brand, and you get to know how the sausage is made, which I like. You also should be able to fix your own raft quite easily because you'd have the right tools and intimate knowledge of how it goes together.

PuErhTeabag
Sep 2, 2018
I've been making some progress in my packraft build.

First, I made a seat to test out my welding abilities as well as my Boston Valve installation.



EDIT: DON'T USE E6000, IT USES TRICHLOROETHYLENE AS A SOLVENT WHICH IS REALLY NASTY STUFF. IT CAN BE ESPECIALLY HARMFUL IF YOU TOUCH AN IRON TO IT FORMS SUPER DUPER NASTY THINGS WITH SUFFICIENT HEAT. I'm experimenting with Shoe Goo, Seam Grip, and Aquaseal as alternatives.

Lessons learned: E6000 is good glue see above and works for bonding PVC and TPU coated nylon, but you have to rough up the TPU and the PVC first. Also, I should have used a baffle instead of directly quilting the two sides of the seat together. The sharp angle creates stress risers and I got a pinhole leak at the edge of one of my interior welds after bouncing on my seat to test out it's durability. I'll probably remake this later.

I made a little form of the correct (11") diameter to help keep the seam straight as I welded the tube seams.



With some masking tape to make the fabric stick, it worked really well. I worked the wrinkles out before welding, but they are present in this picture.



Three tubes down, seven to go! I can't do more than 3-4 in a day because I need to reinforce interior corners with glue because they are at the highest probability for having a leak.

PuErhTeabag fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Sep 1, 2020

PuErhTeabag
Sep 2, 2018

PokeJoe posted:

i keep going back to those diy kits you posted as a potential winter project but I think my gf might kill me since the only room I have to do it in is our living room

The good thing about this kind of project is that it is really easy to roll up and pack away when you aren't working on it. If you want to seem reasonable, show her a video of a Pygmy Boats build first. (I'd love to build one of their wooden kayaks)

https://www.pygmyboats.com/kit-construction-process.html
https://www.pygmyboats.com/boats/touring-kayaks.html


Welding the fabric has a very minimal smell that I'm not bothered by, but someone with a sensitive nose might care about. The glues will offgas solvents of some type as they cure (all three I'm currently considering use toluene which is less toxic than TCE but not still great for indoor use), so you'll need a place to glue that isn't indoors. You might be able to get away without gluing interiors and just putting little glue spots on any leaks from the outside, which would let you wait until after the boat was finished to glue, but I'm not sure.

If you are serious about it, go order your iron from aliexpress sooner than later, because mine took almost three months to arrive.

Other updates: that seat design sucks. After bouncing on it for a while, I sprung pinhole leaks next to two of the quilting welds. The angle of the fabric joining is too steep I think and I didn't do a good job of having smooth round welds. Looking at other inflated seat designs, using an internal baffle seems to work to control thickness without introducing bad stress risers. I'm also freaked out about the TCE because it's toxic to aquatic life, so I'm scrapping what I have done and starting over. Luckily this gives me a chance to not repeat some of my mistakes and the fabric isn't too pricey.

PuErhTeabag
Sep 2, 2018


Forgot to post this earlier, but the inflatable boat from scratch is done and works!

PuErhTeabag
Sep 2, 2018
Thanks!

Maybe this weekend I'll make an effort post and an imgur album of the build. I'd like to show it off to some of my non-goon friends as well.

Maybe if I get weird and build a second one this winter I'll do a proper build thread.

PuErhTeabag
Sep 2, 2018

PokeJoe posted:

Looks awesome! How does it handle?

Thanks!

It doesn't track very well on open water and likes to spin easily. However, it does pack up nicely and inflates quickly with a foot pump. (inflation bag is on the to-do list and orally inflating is really unenjoyable) It sits fairly high in the water with me in it and is light.

Does anyone know how other packrafts maintain good open water tracking?

If I make a second version, I'm considering making it a little bit longer for this reason. I think having a load in the front (or maybe not having as strong of an up-tilt) would help a little also by pushing the bow down and giving some cross sectional area up front to prevent rotation. Maybe applying a tiny bit of tension to the floor would help redistribute my rear end-sag as well?

There's still a couple small slow leaks somewhere, but it wasn't noticeable during a 30 minute paddle. If I leave it inflated overnight, it'll be a little limp and wrinkly in the morning, but still mostly full.

PuErhTeabag
Sep 2, 2018
I like the skeg idea and the cargo fly is cool too.

I wouldn't rework this one with a cargo fly, but I'd consider working it into a second raft.

You can get TPU zippers that will heat seal to the fabric on Amazon and some other places, which is what I think you'd want.

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PuErhTeabag
Sep 2, 2018

PokeJoe posted:

Got my sea eagle a few weeks ago and I took it to lake crescent WA today.

First impressions, it's huge!





It's waaay faster than the intex k2 I have, and tracks much better. Harder to put back in the bag too. I got the "upgraded" carbon fiber oars and they feel really good, nice and solid. 2 pieces but they feel like a single piece and not as wobbly as the 5 piece ones. The boat feels a lot easier to tip though, especially since the intex is pretty much unflippable. I'm gonna get some training wheel outriggers for it so I don't have to be so careful about tipping over when I turn around to rifle through my dry bag. Pretty pleased with it though, lots of leg room. I could probably fit a 3rd person in here comfortably if I took the seats out.

That looks super fun

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