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KKKLIP ART posted:Is there a definitive bike maintenance guide? I know Park Tools has a ton of good youtube content but I'd like something that I can read as well. Sheldon Brown died a while back but last time I checked the guys maintaining his site were still doing a good job with it
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Apr 21, 2024 23:43
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Does anyone have experience with cable-actuated hydraulic disc brakes? As much as I love my SBC 4130 All-Road, especially now that I got a Sram cassette to replace the stock one that did not have the most stable shifting, the weak point is the brakes. They are just not great. I have mechanical disc brakes on my Contend AR, and those are pretty dang good, but the SBC's are not confidence-inducing. They work, but not well. I knew that brakes would be an upgrade that I'd end up doing, and I'm thinking now is the time. State has some cable-actuated hydraulic calipers, and they say they're a drop-in replacement. The reviews are all good. I'm completely aware that these are rebranded Chinese imports, but so is most of that bike, so whatever. I don't want to retrofit a full hydraulic system on this bike, so I'm looking for mechanical disc or maybe these hybrids. Yes, I know full hydraulic is superior, but for my riding abilities and where I ride, working mechanical disc brakes (and rim brakes) are more than adequate... except for the stock ones on this bike.
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Apr 22, 2024 01:21
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Oh, I almost forgot. I've mentioned the Trail Critters in this thread a time or nine, and something mysterious and funny happened this past week. Someone has 3D-printed a miniature version of Newt, The Orange Kitty, and placed it on the big Newt sculpture. It originally had magnets glued to its feet, but they've fallen off. I decided to do a ride-by and see Lil' Newt for myself, and yeah, it's cute. I love that somebody did this. The public library in the town with this Critter has a 3D printer, so maybe someone did it there? I did snag a picture. Since the real Newt loves hopping up to a bike's rack/trunk (if equipped) or seat, I figured this was appropriate. 
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Apr 22, 2024 01:52
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tarlibone posted:Does anyone have experience with cable-actuated hydraulic disc brakes? I upgraded two sets of cable disk bikes to the State cable hydros when they had em on sale last year and I've been happy with them. Replacing the stock brake cable housing on the 4130 with Jagwire compressionless was a good upgrade too. We took em on multiday bikepack trips and they held up to a season of cyclocross too, nice to have single finger braking with cables even in the cold.
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Apr 22, 2024 02:22
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How about hydraulic rim brakes from the 70s? https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/sears-hydraulic-and-his-friend-monty.48845/ ; a friend just picked up one of these.
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Apr 22, 2024 03:03
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tarlibone posted:Does anyone have experience with cable-actuated hydraulic disc brakes? Reddit post says these are the unbranded version: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803377187835.html most likely the case given how "established" ZRace is with brakes. Keep in mind this is the kind of QC and design you get [with a different, newer model]: https://youtu.be/0XLtA8cRMH0?si=c7JBbcZPZD70LFfW I'd gamble and try to save the $40 via the AliExpress units, personally. I've had Juintechs, TRP Hy/Rds, and Klampers. Short of trail riding, you shouldn't feel like you've left that much on the table in terms of power. I definitely echo getting compressionless housing, especially given how easy the routing is. That's another $50 or so, but worth it.
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Apr 22, 2024 03:37
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Skarsnik posted:I like to do things properly live your life, but don't pretend to others that you aren't just making simple syrup
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Apr 22, 2024 04:39
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Apr 22, 2024 04:41
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tarlibone posted:Does anyone have experience with cable-actuated hydraulic disc brakes? I have Juintech F1s. They work fine and it's easy to adjust the pad position. I did swap the stock pads for some shimano A01S pads due to some reoccurring squealing on the stock ones. SRAM slickwire brake housing/cable kits are $11 on Amazon.
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Apr 22, 2024 05:02
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replaced the tubeless tape with a new strip of the powdercoating tape and its back to normal gotta say i kinda like the fillmore valves but there's one small flaw, the caps they include have so much friction on the threads that i can see them galling up or binding up in short order. i'll have to see if normal plastic caps fit on them
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Apr 24, 2024 05:15
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OBAMNA PHONE posted:replaced the tubeless tape with a new strip of the powdercoating tape and its back to normal If you look inside the cap, it has two sets of threads. The tiny diameter threads recessed deep in the cap are the only ones subjected to any torque/load at all. The large diameter threads are mostly just guides to prevent the cap+rod from being depressed and releasing air.
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Apr 24, 2024 17:13
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I ordered the calipers, going with the State ones because that will allow me to pretend that they did more inspection and quality control than the Ali Express unbranded ones. Also, I'm worried that people won't know my bike is a State bike; there are one or two angles you can look at it from and only see three or four logos, wordmarks, etc. As for the compressionless housing, I'll hold off on that until I feel like unwrapping my bars again. Also, I've never dealt with the cables other than making adjustments at the pinch bolts on calipers or derailleurs; am I going to need any special tools?
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Apr 24, 2024 18:06
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A good pair of cable/housing cutters makes life so much easier.
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Apr 24, 2024 19:09
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tarlibone posted:I've never dealt with the cables other than making adjustments at the pinch bolts on calipers or derailleurs; am I going to need any special tools? The concern you'll run into is how crushed the cable was under the pinch bolt and where the crushed bit ends relative to the new caliper. If it's really badly crushed and going to be between the caliper and the lever, it can fray faster and also cause some slop by effectively acting as a spring and stretching under tension instead of pulling right away. Not 100% relevant visual:  (here, the cable is unwound and partly snapped from bad placement in the clamp and maybe bad clamp interface (too sharp, etc.) If you're lucky, the new caliper clamping point will be more or less in the same spot. If you're not lucky, you might end up having to thread a new cable down the housing from the lever end.
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Apr 24, 2024 20:09
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kimbo305 posted:The concern you'll run into is how crushed the cable was under the pinch bolt and where the crushed bit ends relative to the new caliper. ... and that would mean new cable, cable end crimps, and a tool. Maybe. Perhaps. Oh well. In for a penny, in for a pound.
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Apr 25, 2024 01:21
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hey thread. I'm looking to buy a used road bike to cruise around town. I'm a total bike noob though and not too sure what to look for. Currently I'm eyeing this bike: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1172848703884404/ I hear Apollos and Bianchis are good quality vintage bikes? I'm 5'8", M, and I think this is a good size for me (I do plan to try it out in person). I'm in Vancouver, BC for reference. I currently have a Cannondale Hybrid 700c. It's fine - I have a rear and front rack installed, it's my primary mode of transportation, and I've taken it bike touring before (and plan to do that more). But I feel like a dork on it, it feels heavy, I don't really like my positioning on it, and it would be nice to have a simple, light bike without all the accoutrements. I've never had a road bike or any bike with drop bars before, only commuters. At some point I'd like to get rid of the Cannondale and buy a touring or gravel bike and do some longer bike-packing trips, but that's maybe 2-3 years for now. Anyway, how does this bike look??
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Apr 25, 2024 20:13
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The geometry looks super weird, the angles are very very slack.
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Apr 25, 2024 20:19
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I wouldn't be too worried about the angles. You can adjust the seat forward enough to make that work even if you like riding over the bottom bracket. And can get used to the fork angle and how unwieldy it'll feel at low speeds along with getting used to drop bar handling in general. It might feel fleeter to ride, but it might not actually be that much lighter than an alu hybrid.
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Apr 25, 2024 20:35
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Fair enough. Sounds like the bike is okay? What does weird angles mean? I'm also looking at these two: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/244791618715795/ https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/862766691895216/
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Apr 25, 2024 23:12
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That last one is the nicest bike. For the era you're looking at shifters on the stem (like your first post link) are a dead giveaway of a cheaper bike, typically with heavy, flexy frames. Shifters on the downtube are much more often on good frames (better steel, butted tubes, etc.) Also, there are a ton of good road bike manufacturers from that time period, don't limit yourself on brand. Look for a "name brand" steel for the frame (like a "Reynolds 753" sticker on the seat tube for example).
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Apr 26, 2024 01:38
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grilledcheese posted:Fair enough. Sounds like the bike is okay? What does weird angles mean? A road bike has typically 72-74 degree headtube and seatube angles (from horizontal). The seattube angle doesn't really matter, since you can slide a saddle front-to-back a few cm to dial your prefered angle from hips to cranks. It'd have to be more extreme than on that road bike to be a limiting factor. The headtube angle affects how the fork feels when turning, at various speeds. This plays into how raked the fork is (whether its straight or if the wheel is offset in front of the turning axis). The slacker a headtube angle, the floppier a bike can feel at lower speeds. It's not as dramatic an effect as the fork rake, however. Smaller bike frames tend to use slacker angles to get the wheel further away from the front of your feet, so they don't snag as much on low speed, very steered to one side turns. Visual of two bikes with different front end geometries (height of the frame at the top of the head tube, how slack the head tube is, etc):  Even between these two bikes, you'd be adjusted to the handling differences in 15min or less, once you're familiar with riding any drop bar bike.
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Apr 26, 2024 01:53
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I hosed up my ankle and need to stop running, at least for a while. Was doing like 8km per day, before. Anyway, what's a reasonable amount of money to spend on a bike, if I'm mostly sticking to roads and paths? My town is fairly flat and has some nice lakes to cycle around, also a good number of hill tracks. I also live a few k's from work, and would be up for some commuter cycling. There's a bit of a gulf between the disassembled bikes they sell for like $150 (Australian) at the department stores and the ones that go for $800 in the specialty shops. I can afford one of the expensive ones, I just don't want to waste money on something wildly out of my requirements. I realise it's always dicey asking a group of enthusiasts a question like this, but hey, can't hurt.
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Apr 26, 2024 04:41
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grilledcheese posted:Fair enough. Sounds like the bike is okay? What does weird angles mean? Kimbo covered it in detail but old road bikes all have pretty much the same geometry and that doesn't have it so something is off. It can be that it's a small frame but a 54cm frame doesn't need those adjustments so I'm thinking the frame might be a lot smaller in reality. It's also probably a low end model since every experienced rider buying a road bike at that time would notice it's off. It has a huge tire clearance which isn't that uncommon for the period but might be a sign it's actually a touring bike or might even originally had a flat handlebar which would lead the handling being weird with a drop bar. You'll probably adjust to it but I think it's an unnecessary compromise.
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Apr 26, 2024 05:31
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Kazzah posted:I hosed up my ankle and need to stop running, at least for a while. Was doing like 8km per day, before. Anyway, what's a reasonable amount of money to spend on a bike, if I'm mostly sticking to roads and paths? My town is fairly flat and has some nice lakes to cycle around, also a good number of hill tracks. I also live a few k's from work, and would be up for some commuter cycling. There's a bit of a gulf between the disassembled bikes they sell for like $150 (Australian) at the department stores and the ones that go for $800 in the specialty shops. I can afford one of the expensive ones, I just don't want to waste money on something wildly out of my requirements. It sounds like what you you're looking for is a very normal bike. You should be able to get something worth owning for under $500 AUD in my opinion. There are some great bargains to be had getting something second hand, but that can be a bit of a gamble - worth the gamble at a bike shop, or bike coop, but not worth trying your luck on facebook marketplace or gumtree.
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Apr 26, 2024 09:00
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A hybrid of some kind sounds like a good bike for you. These are your basic bikes with flat or riser bars. There are more categories of bikes now than there are individual models, making shipping at bike shops intimidating for someone getting their first bike, but in the land of hybrids, there are two main types. Comfort hybrids have a very upright position, riser bars, a cushiony saddle, and sometimes have a suspension fork and/or seatpost to smooth out bumps. These are comfortable and are great for cruising and commuting at lower speeds. Then, there are the other hybrids with flatter bars. These have a more forward, athletic position and a smaller saddle, and are still good for cruising and commuting, but are better for faster speed and longer rides than comfort bikes. I have a Giant Escape, which is the latter type, and even though I have two drop-bar bikes for longer, faster rides, I still ride the Escape because it's great for commuting around my hilly-rear end town. I can do 50 miles on it without an issue.
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Apr 26, 2024 13:55
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Got a woom bike for my son. He demanded I put it in his crib as he went to bed. 
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Apr 26, 2024 16:39
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I lent one of my bikes to a friend who wants to get into cycling, so they can put their budget towards accessories now and pick up their own bike later when stuff is on discount. While looking up locks it looks like they're starting to come out with ceramic shackles that wear out angle grinder wheels which looks pretty cool. I know at a certain point they're just going to attack whatever you're locked up to, but it's still cathartic to watch the lock fight back and melt the poo poo out of the grinder wheel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUwjh8J4uec&t=461s
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Apr 26, 2024 18:36
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Coxswain Balls posted:I lent one of my bikes to a friend who wants to get into cycling, so they can put their budget towards accessories now and pick up their own bike later when stuff is on discount. While looking up locks it looks like they're starting to come out with ceramic shackles that wear out angle grinder wheels which looks pretty cool. I know at a certain point they're just going to attack whatever you're locked up to, but it's still cathartic to watch the lock fight back and melt the poo poo out of the grinder wheel. Yep, cutting the bike stand is easier by far. But also, when the wheels & components on some bikes are reliably worth £2-4k parted out, just cutting the frame to get away with the wheels and groupset is very easy. With a ceramic shackle, I’d be wary of some new attack that can shatter it.
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Apr 26, 2024 19:04
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Im a size large in every piece of kit i've bought for like a decade now but hell if you ever want to feel bad by the same size in an italian brand. The zip gave up the second I took a breath.
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Apr 26, 2024 19:10
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serious gaylord posted:Im a size large in every piece of kit i've bought for like a decade now but hell if you ever want to feel bad by the same size in an italian brand. I wear small in US fat-sizing and start at size large with Italian/euro brands
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Apr 26, 2024 21:12
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wooger posted:With a ceramic shackle, I’d be wary of some new attack that can shatter it. https://barronium.com/ There's still a steel shackle in there, but it's bonded to a composite that's filled with ceramic particles that eat away at grinder discs. You see the guy wailing at it with a sledgehammer and bolt cutters and it just messes up the outer silicone layer in the video I posted earlier. I'd be interested in seeing what the more established lock companies like Abus are able to come up with if power tool defense ends up taking off.
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Apr 27, 2024 01:27
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