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Going by chainline the middle ring of a standard road triple should move 4mm in to match a road double inner. 107mm bb would put it 3mm in and assuming jis taper the common next shorter is 103mm which is probably too short.
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Jul 30, 2020 12:01
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I've been interested in getting a bike fit lately and someone is offering a Specialized BodyGeometry Bikefit services near me. Anyone have any experience with this? The person doing it is a trained physiotherapist so it's not just some bike shop offering it. Reading on it it seems pretty good and the Specialized thing might be mostly a branding thing. I don't think I have any major problems with my fit I'm just curious to get an experts opinion.
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Aug 14, 2020 20:10
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I think the Tiagra and Grx 400 RDs also work with 11 speed shifters despite being officially 10 speed. Vice versa the 10 speed Tiagra and Grx 400 shifters work with any on paper 11 speed road RDs. Looks to me you'd get a little more range with the 10 speed grx RD with double as compared to the 11 speed one. That's maybe one case this might be useful besides parts-binning
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Sep 12, 2020 08:55
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iospace posted:I asked this in the commuting thread, but does anyone know of any tubeless, studded 700x38c tires? There's Suomi Tyres Routa TLR in 35 and 42 mm widths. It's a new product that was just released so don't really now if it's any good. Might also be hard to find outside of Finland. The company is running the old Nokian bicycle tyres factory that's been making studded tires for a long time. They were gonna release a folding studded tire as well but couldn't get it working yet.
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Oct 29, 2020 08:11
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evil_bunnY posted:Not in the US no. Just read in the news that the Norwegian ex-skier Petter Northug just had his license suspended for life. He was caught speeding four times recently once doing 204 kph in a 80 kph zone. He has a prior conviction from 2014 when he crashed while drunk, ran from the crash and left his injured friend on the front seat. Also probably didn't help they now found cocaine in his house. I'm not in Norway so can't say how common this is over there.
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Dec 21, 2020 15:00
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:Float is much less of an issue than stance for me, my legs splay out way wide from my already wide hips.I've already got pedal washers on. It also looks like speedplay discontinued their longer axle models when they got bought out, so I'd be buying pedals and then buying aftermarket axles and swapping them out. I'd be happy just buying even longer axles for my shimano pedals if something longer then the +4mm was out there, but I haven't found any. It all feels like an annoying run-around to do solve what doesn't seems like it should be that uncommon/difficult of a problem. I don't know what components you use but downgrading cranks usually widens the q-factor which puts the pedals wider. Eg. Dura-ace is 146mm, Tiagra 150mm and the triple Tiagra is already 159mm. Going from road to mtb increases the q-factor even more. I don't know if this really works for you but it's one way of getting more space between pedals. If you can use square taper cranks and bb you can get the cranks as wide as you like almost.
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Feb 13, 2021 19:46
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TobinHatesYou posted:Loosening pedal spindles is pretty spooky, even when I have the chain in the big ring. I recently faceplanted on the big ring when changing pedals in a bad position. I'm what some would consider a professional bike mechanic and should have known better. Wasn't great though no permanent injuries apart from a small scar.
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Feb 20, 2021 10:53
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While I don't own spd sandals (yet) I can say that birkenstocks and flats are also a winning combination.
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Mar 5, 2021 09:33
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The surprising thing for me has been that 7 speed threaded freewheels seem to have completely ran out. Not just Shimano but even some no name Chinese ones. In the nordics Shimano's estimate for more stock was something ridiculous like 70 months. They are still common on the very cheapest bikes but I didn't think the demand was so high.
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Apr 17, 2021 14:07
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EvilJoven posted:Most of the bikes sold globally are either 7s freewheel or 8s cassette. Think about all the department store bikes, cruisers, cheap hybrids etc. Fancy road and mountain bikes are the exception not the norm. We fix tons of bikes with 8 speed cassettes but those are still in stock from sram, sunrace etc. just not Shimano. The 7 speed freewheel is less common than that here so it being one of the first things to be completely sold out for us was surprising.
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Apr 17, 2021 20:33
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I'd recommend a tune up a lot sooner than 1000 miles, closer to 125 miles on a new bike. Brakes, shifters etc. probably could use adjustments but the important thing is getting wheels checked and trued before they're beyond repair. Factory made wheels can have spoke tensions all over the place after that many miles. I've seen completely loose spokes on new expensive road bikes around the 125 miles point. It's also a good point to check everything is okay with the bike and any problems are clearly under warranty and not caused by you.
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May 26, 2021 18:40
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When Shimano introduced di2 with the Nexave groupset it ran on a dynamo, they even had a rear dynamo hub. That was meant for a heavy city bike / hybrid though. When di2 returned with Dura-ace a dynamo would be far too heavy for a race bike. I kinda don't see a use case currently where dynamo and electronic gears would make much sense. E: A di2 rando bike maybe but that's such a niche of a niche.
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Jun 3, 2021 11:36
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Though tbh about the weight of a dynamo system: with high end parts you'll gain maybe 300 grams on the front hub and save weight on the lights being very light without batteries. That's kinda approaching the territory of if you remember to take your phone with you or not.
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Jun 3, 2021 14:24
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truavatar posted:I bought a nice used bike a couple months ago and have ridden it a few times. I've been storing it in my basement, but it's a pain in the rear end to get it up and down from there. I'm wondering whether there are any issues with storing it in my barn (locked of course). It's not insulated and I'm in upstate new york, so it gets very cold over the winter - potentially sub-zero (F) temps from time to time. Is that going to destroy my tires, etc? I'd check if the frame has a hole for water to get out under the bottom bracket. I've seen a few bikes with cracked chainstays when the water has had no way out and it has frozen and expanded. Few millimeters is big enough hole and it's fairly easy to drill (steel or aluminum frame) but requires removing the cranks and bottom bracket. If it's a steel frame the sewer helps with rust too. A shop should be able to do this for you pretty cheap.
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Oct 25, 2021 18:14
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500% range cassette on commuter e-bike is also kinda dumb since unless you run out of battery you'll be just riding in the high gears all the time wearing out the 400$ cassette in no time. Belt drive alfine would probably be my choice.
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Oct 30, 2021 13:22
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The rear spacing of the frame might be an issue. It could be 120mm and hubs in that width for threaded freewheels haven't been really made in decades. The freewheel is important since the frame and derailleur might not handle anything but 5 or 6 speeds and cassettes like that don't exist. There are workarounds for everything above but if you don't want to invest time and money getting new tyres for old wheels might be the way to go.
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Nov 1, 2021 10:26
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Jestery posted:Ahh interesting stuff New cassettes are wider yes and the derailleur won't move far enough in to get past the fifth cog or so. Sometimes there's also problems with the smallest cog touching the frame. As you said this can be maybe sorted with spacers and Re-centering the wheel but I would personally rather build a new wheel with some nice vintage hubs but only if the frame is extra nice. There's also the issue of the new hubs not maybe fitting inside your frame as they're too wide and a modern front axle maybe being too wide for your frame. Both solvable but even more effort. Maybe your frame is also modern enough that these issues won't exist.
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Nov 1, 2021 16:57
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Safety Dance posted:You're not going to see step through frames on time trials bikes any time soon. You're absolutely right but the Pinarello Parigina from the mid-nineties didn't know this. On the phone so you'll have to Google the pictures.
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Nov 14, 2021 19:59
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Isn't the power loss on smaller cogs (less than 11 at least) so bad that some pro team that was forced by sponsor to use cassettes starting with 10 preferred to just have slightly bigger chainrings and effectively one gear less in the back? I recall reading that you get some loss starting with cogs smaller than 14 already.
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Jan 20, 2022 20:30
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Since it's a fixie you also probably want the same chainline with the chainring and the cog. This depends first on the rear hub and then on the crank but I think 42mm is most common. The frame can be a limit on this by preventing the cranks from turning with the "correct" bb axle length.
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Jan 21, 2022 17:37
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SimonSays posted:Panaracer truly didn't have the capacity to respond to the high demand since 2020 and nothing's been available in a timely way. They, understandably, have been focusing on more popular SKUs, which I've seen from basically every manufacturer. This and I think they have huge problems with covid too. Their hybrid/city tires (which are good for what they are) haven't been available in a long time and they can't say when they'll have more.
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Feb 2, 2022 07:52
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Heliosicle posted:Are there any saddles that have a middle ground of padding where they are fairly comfortable without bibs, but not too squishy with them? I ride my commuter bike with and without bibs. The current saddle I have (Bontrager Montrose) is fine with bibs, but really uncomfortable without. I have an Ergon saddle that's kinda like that. Mine's the cheapest road model but they have wide selection. I use it bibless for commutes and have liked it. Though I read somewhere that some German back pain institute officially approved them and I'm a sucker for all that.
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Mar 8, 2022 09:26
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Clark Nova posted:Is there anything to watch out for other than the bottom bracket and the headset? Velo orange sells new ones now so it's not as bad as it was when I was dealing with this poo poo in the 2000's. I think the freewheels require a different tool to get off but new ones will thread onto the hub just fine? The freewheels have a different thread and are rare. It's Italian and English that are close enough to each other. The rear hub can also be a helicomatic which takes even rarer replacement parts. It's also often pretty expensive if you want to change the handlebar or stem since those have their own obsolete standards too. Old French bikes are the definition of a money pit so I would also avoid them. The Peugeots are also the worst in the way that they made everything from super nice bikes to cheap bikes but they all manage to look pretty nice at a glance. The carbolite frame is on the cheaper side.
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Apr 18, 2022 05:27
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Kuule hain nussivan posted:My new job is making it possible to get my first proper bike, with a budget of 1000-2000€. I only know that I should avoid hybrids. I would be using it for day trips in the countryside, so a mix of asphalt, gravel/sand and paths of varying quality. Any help on what I should be looking for in general and regarding specific manufacturers is appreciated. Are you based in Finland? If so I'd check Kona (the rove models in specific) or if you're in Helsinki the Active brand from larunpyorä is also decent. These seem to be in stock which is a bit of a surprise. Touring, gravel or cyclocross is the genre you're looking for. A comfortable riding position is a complicated question and will change the more you ride. Easy thing to check is that you can get the handlebars high enough. Like well above the saddle. This not the only thing that matters but something that can be expensive to fix later. The kona rove st has the most upright position of the bikes I mentioned. For a quick check list of the top of my mind: 1. Test ride, so you know the bike fits you. Ask the sales person for help on this. 2. You want proper mudguards for the Finnish weather. Some frames can't mount full length ones. 3. Tire clearance for at least ~37mm tires with mudguards if you're gonna ride in the winter. This gives enough room for decent studded tires. 4. Hydraulic disc brakes are a worthwhile upgrade over mechanical ones. 5. 650b tires are good but have limited options of mudguards and studded tires.
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Apr 20, 2022 14:35
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MrL_JaKiri posted:Hydro discs: can be annoying to install (needs a lot of specialist stuff), but once up and running have better and more reliable brake power and you don't need to worry about adjusting the pads as they wear. This. I hate adjusting mechanical disc brakes and with hydros you kinda don't have to worry about it.
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Apr 20, 2022 18:02
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I tried measuring my inseam and I think it is close to 77cm, which one chart says 16" bike, but it assumes a person 5'4-5'6 which I am not, so I guess I have short legs? https://www.rivbike.com/pages/pubic-bone-height-how-to-measure-your-pbh If you set your saddle height like this and the bike feels ok it's ok. If you can't get the saddle low enough it's too big.
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Jul 10, 2022 19:11
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PolishPandaBear posted:Will Tiagra's next version be 12 speed? Will it be comparable in performance and weight to 105? The do all the group sets below shift up a notch? Otherwise you're leaving gaps. Tiagra is already 11 speed with 10 clicks (or 9 but nvm) in the shifter so I'd guess the plan has been to upgrade it next to 11 speed at probably a pretty low cost. The rear deraillers with eg. Tiagra and 11 speed 105 are interchangeable though unofficially. This leaves 10 speed road currently at a weird spot since any 10 speed rd before Tiagra is not compatible with it but they still make 10 speed 105 RDs. Is possible 10 speed Sora gonna skip to actually 11 speed same as Tiagra? Why not move the whole range there eventually? The difference is a few millimeters of cable pull so it's probably trivial to manufacture both.
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Jul 28, 2022 19:06
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Eg. a new kona rove AL is 1000 euros. That leaves 200 eur for racks and mudguards.
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Aug 20, 2022 15:31
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MrL_JaKiri posted:Why on earth did you ask Colnago about a touring/commuter bike? 90kg rider max is an absurdly low limit, even the Specialized Aethos (which has a frame weighing <600g) has a rider weight limit of 125kg. Campagnolo manuals (used to?) say max rider weight of 80 kilos for all parts. Yes, even the front derailler. As for the Peugeot if you basically want a new bike with an old frame I'd at least get one with canti posts cause spexing grx I'm guessing you're not gonna be happy with ancient low end center pulls.
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Aug 20, 2022 16:49
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FredLordofCheese posted:Edit: Nevermind, its almost certainly a J8 That's a junior bike for teenagers with 650a (590) wheels. I see other goons are falling for the Peugeot trap too. They all look pretty starting from the cheapest model. The racks and mudguards that fit perfectly look luxurious in this age but were just standard equipment on bikes that were expected to come with them.
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Aug 21, 2022 05:46
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Angryhead posted:Looking for a bit of bike buying advice: I've rode over 3000 km with this bike now and while I like pretty much everything else, the lovely brakes are a real killer - and I'm honestly kind of afraid that eventually, literally. (I think they model is Weinmann AG Vainqueur 750 if anybody wants to check them out) Dunno if you read the last pages of the thread dissing the Peugeot but that frame is so much worse. The fauber bottom bracket alone is huge pain in the rear end and super heavy. Almost anything from the past 30 years is gonna be a huge improvement. The only caveat might be that the frame might have a ton of flex which is expensive to get on a new bike.
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Sep 2, 2022 20:01
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CopperHound posted:Most of them look like caged bearings instead of cartridge. If you really need cartidge, there is Chris King. I think there's a tange or dia-compe too for a lot less than a Chris King.
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Sep 5, 2022 05:56
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That Trenga looks really good to me. The cassette has a bit narrow range (11-28) but with the 46/30 chainrings it's not too much of a problem. If the lowest gear isn't low enough that's a relatively inexpensive thing to fix.
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Sep 5, 2022 15:56
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Nanpa posted:So, is the the right thread to ask about how to look over second hand bikes? That Shogun likely has very little to do with the mtb brand from the 80s other than the name. I'm a little sceptical of the recommended size wrt how low the saddle is in the picture. I'm in that height range and would probably have the saddle a lot higher than the bars which would make the riding position a lot more aggressive than suggested. The shogun looks pretty clean but looking at the alchemy road bike he's also selling it might have v-brake levers with road brakes which is not gonna work great but can't say for sure from the pictures. That leaves me a bit wary of how well the bikes actually work.
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Sep 13, 2022 17:16
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GreenBuckanneer posted:If there are some surface rust spots on the frame of the bike, what is the best way fix those and cover them? Surface rust isn't usually an issue and I ride in salted slush during the winter. But if you wanna cover the spots nail polish works best. For removal I've heard of this citric acid - potato starch slurry if there's a lot of rust but haven't tried it myself. Don't burn off your eyes with the acid etc. Inside of the frame is another matter and for that a small sewer hole under the bottom bracket shell to drain water helps a lot.
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Sep 21, 2022 06:52
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My 1975ish Bridgestone submariner came with a combination drum and band brake and the thing had an amazing amount of braking power. Too bad the brake weighs something like two kilos.
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Oct 11, 2022 05:09
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Baronash posted:Don't mean to turn this into a bike fitting thread, but I was wondering if I could get a couple pointers on my fit. I've ridden about 400 miles with this setup between outdoors and on the trainer, and I feel pretty good about it apart from how stretched out I feel on the hoods. I'm 6', and the frame is 56cm (I believe) with a 110mm stem. Does this look overextended? I can drop my chest a little bit to get some bend in the elbows, but it doesn't feel natural and I never end up riding that way for very long. Could a shorter stem make a difference? I'd look into a different handlebar. What you have is an anatomic dropbar which is meant to be used ends of the drops roughly parallel to the ground. This means a drop to the hoods from where the bar clamps. You've rotated them up to make the top part more comfortable but in doing so have wildly extended the reach of the bars or made the hoods a lot further away. I'd try a compact drop bar of some sort.
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Dec 11, 2022 20:18
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TobinHatesYou posted:Giant itself operates factories in Taiwan, China, The Netherlands and Hungary. Most bikes are made in mainland China, not Taiwan. How does this work since the EU at least has a huge import tax on bikes made in China (not Taiwan) to protect European brands. Or are these models that are never sold in the EU?
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Jan 3, 2023 07:42
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TobinHatesYou posted:I mean, Canyon is a European brand with competitive prices right? Their high end bikes are made here: http://www.questcomposite.com/business-sport.php They have a Taiwanese address listed as well so I guess that's how the bypass the tax? Like if you import eg. a Surly bike here they ship it straight from Taiwan and if it was shipped instead from China the mark up would be around 50%. There's some exceptions I can't be bothered to understand. It's kinda silly anyways since if that surly would be shipped with parts in a separate container and put together here you could call it made in EU.
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Jan 3, 2023 14:11
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There was the Look Ergostem but the look's a tough sell. I think exotic French parts are cool by definition.
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Feb 12, 2023 12:23
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