|
Eejit posted:You can use flats or clipless on an MTB. I use clipless because I like the falls I take when I can't get unclipped, especially while standing. My partner likes flats because of the way the cleats gouge her shins and because she has an easier time losing control of the bike in the air Not trying to be a dick here but if you're relying on your feet being clipped to the bike to maintain control in the air you're gonna eat poo poo super hard one day. Keeping feet on the pedals with flats and controlling the bike in the air is a fundamental jumping skill and going around it via clipless is gonna trade some smaller bails learning for a big slam down the line. Same with slipping a foot in the rough, you're gonna be going faster clipped in and the same poor technique will get you bucked into a tree instead of smacking your shin or a low speed crash. Really not trying to be a dick here but the worst slams I've seen are related to people running clips because they can't keep their feet on flats and it works until it doesn't, and it usually stops working at a way faster speed clipped than on flats and the consequences are much higher due to the speed. The classic bucked on the lip and dead-manning through the air to implosion is a classic crash from not being used to staying with the bike and getting it under you which imo is easiest to build with flats, same with weighting the bike at the right time and heels down through rough parts of the trail.
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2021 23:24
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 20, 2024 03:28 |
|
|
I have seen quite a few people use clips as a replacement for learning how to keep their feet on the bike and have it result in bad crashes. You can learn either way but clips will hide technique problems until you are traveling at a speed where you go from small off to laugh about with friends to pitching into a tree with the bike on top of you and you have to get scraped out of the woods. Learning to ride with the bike instead of independently is a really important thing and a hard skill and being physically attached makes it way easier to not realize when you are riding and movong independently.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2021 23:36
|
|
|
I got that but also didn't want people to think feet come off bike jumping or in the rough means they need clips, especially because I saw this thinking result in a couple bad crashes last summer with new riders especially ones coming from road. Literally 'I cant keep my feet on the bike with flats so I got clips' and a couple weeks later they had a bad crash after getting bucked in either a rough section or jumping and had to go to the hospital.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2021 23:59
|
|
|
Twerk from Home posted:
I think a dj is gonna be way more versatile than a bmx, the bigger wheels and front suspension take a lot of the harshness out of the bike, a 20" bmx is pretty funny to ride coming from a normal bike and rough on the wrists. DJs and bmxs are pretty durable, I'd look for a used dj if you go that way. If new buy either a commencal or canyon imo, best bang for your buck. Other option would be a single speed hardtail, much more of a real bike for other stuff but also really fun putting around and at the pump track. Actually getting anywhere on a dj or bmx is a bit of a process due to only being able to pedal standing and the gearing usually being a little short to really stand and mash, a bike you can sit on is nice but the seat will get in the way at the pump track or skate park or doing random poo poo like manuals and bhops.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2021 23:00
|
|
|
Does the cover plate for the brake on that madrone really bolt to the main body by mounting to the inside of the main pivot screws with smaller screws? If so I'm in love.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2021 01:56
|
|
|
It's pretty off topic but container shipping to western europe is pretty lol right now, SE asia to USA is 2x pre-covid, to western europe its like 5x and capacity isn't there. I'm train shipping stuff from china to Germany rn which is pretty lol.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2021 00:24
|
|
|
I am part of the compressor cree but before I switched I got pretty good at half seating beads with a tire lever, you can get it just right where you're kind of pulling the bead over to the outside of the time but instead of getting the tire off it seats into the bead on that side but this only works halfway around the tire. So with no tube trick you can get half of each side on, with the tube you can get one side all on and one side half on, with a compressor you just throw a tire on there and start blasting.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2021 20:37
|
|
|
Don't drill your frame.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 14, 2021 16:28
|
|
|
You're gonna scrap your frame. The picture you posted of the cable version looks like it's moulded differently around the cable hole.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 14, 2021 20:20
|
|
|
I've changed my mind drilling is fine just fill the hole with jbweld once the cable housing is in to reinforce it.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 14, 2021 23:00
|
|
|
Drill the frame! Drill the frame! Drill the frame! Drill the frame! Do it with a linguini noodle.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2021 01:16
|
|
|
where THE gently caress is the DRILLED frame at?
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2021 03:00
|
|
|
PRADA SLUT posted:Looking for an MTB liner to wear under some other shorts. Just the liner though, not like the liner+baggies combo. I like my dakine liners, my TLDs are gonna be great if they loosen up a bit on the old balls, fit good everywhere but squeeze my package back into my pelvis. You might just have to try a range of stuff and see, even within a brand the pad dimensions change and some will be good and some bad.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2021 23:00
|
|
|
Sounds like they're using hybrid resin transfer molding, which is when you combine traditional bladder molding with resin transfer molding aka dry layup and injecting the resin or matrix material in once the mold is closed. You normally inject from the mold body as the core is a bladder to provide the consolidation pressure needed to get good lamination and control your resin:fiber ratio. Typically you'd do a partial inflation of the bladder to start the debulk, inject at a specific pressure, then do your final pressure ramps in the bladder to force resin through the flash gap and into the flash track to get your final fiber ratio. The final debulk and compaction of the layup is what drives resin fill through the weave, as does the right flash gap in mold design so it flows at the right rate and all that jazz. And yeah you'd theoretically be able to work with a hot mold vs cold as you're not doing layup in the mold, so your prepreg isn't curing as you work. I'm not certain here, but I'm under the impression most bike frames are laid up into the female mold halves and a thin latex bladder is set between them before closing the mold. I'd guess that 3t's using a silicone bladder that's more structural and wrapping directly on that, but they could also be using a solid mandrel and using mold closing compression to do debulk and controlling resin fill by injection pressure and flash gap dimensions. Either way because you aren't unintentionally curing your material as you get it into the mold you can work with hot molds, though it loving sucks if you're doing anything fiddly with a hot mold - burnt fingers for days. Temp ramp profiles for good cure are super important for most resins so having detailed control of your cure cycle is critical, they might be bringing the molds down to a safe working temp that would still cause a partial cure with their resin to get best of both worlds. I'm not a bike or composites guy so this could all be wildly wrong but that's my guess from working on some vaguely similar stuff.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2021 22:08
|
|
|
dawg get some flats until you are comfortable getting on and off the bike and stuff, clips are like advanced territory for ya. imo you can get 95% of the way to correct saddle height looking at a picture of it on the internet and then riding by some windows.Ihmemies posted:I tried to "soften" the hard points on the road, no luck. Only marred the shoe upper. I was ready to bin the shoes until I found out today that it is possible to soften the sole with a heatgun at around 80-100C setting and then use a blunt tool to forcibly modify the sole. can you return your shoes that dont fit and get some ones that do? and before you cut your axles down (lmao dont hacksaw your axles) try adjusting cleat position so they clear on your new shoes that fit right.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2021 08:14
|
|
|
tandems are secretly the best bikes. Lhmemies do the oven thing first before the heat gun and you can add foam inside your sock, and remember its a little counter intuitive where the tighter you strap them hot the looser they will be after moulding. also side point but if upper volume is different between shoes its usually a different last even if they're the same width, the upper has to be tight on the last during assembly so you cant just add material and have a loose fit and expect it to work.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2021 16:59
|
|
|
Seconding 100% gloves, I have three pair of the ridecamp or something like that and they're great. Just got some fox flexairs and they're also great.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2021 23:04
|
|
|
Shifting off the top of the cassette (or bottom) point to limit screw issues right?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2021 03:05
|
|
|
could it be a chainline issue? somehow when you shift the chain is getting pulled enough to the outside that its riding over the teeth of the front ring right? If you've got a goofy crank and chainring setup I could see it placing the chainline somewhere it doesnt work with out a front mech, but im kinda spitballing here.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2021 19:48
|
|
|
Ah I missed that it was shifting to bigger cogs made it fall off the outside of the ring, that's real weird tbh.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2021 21:37
|
|
|
You will 100% get made fun of so be ready for that. Don't buy a convertable, get a 'enduro' full face like a fox proframe or a tld stage, the convertable will breathe less, sweat more, be heavier, etc than a proper full face. I have and love the bell super dh for mtb but I don't think the removable chin bar makes a ton of sense outside of some specific types of mtb riding and it's a worse fullface than a dedicated one.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 25, 2021 19:30
|
|
|
you bonked and shift down?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 3, 2021 18:33
|
|
|
I use an ancient track pump from the 80s with a tiny gauge that goes to 200, so I have one of those little digital pressure things to tune it once it's pumped up. I'd rather have a pump with a better gauge tbh.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 13, 2021 18:29
|
|
|
The double crown aero fork and raised and wide seat stays could be considered inventive enough to have a utility patent granted (sounds like it was), and if the Hope bike infringes on the claims then regardless of where the idea came from its IP infringement. Utility patents can be incredibly specific and anywhere from amazing to useless, and lots of things get patented - relevant to the aero bike conversation, some bike mfgs have patents on specific aero tube cross section shapes that are UCI rule compliant but offer a benefit over other shapes. It really wouldnt surprise me if even with the changes the Hope bike is infringing on the existing patents, what'll be interested to see is how its handled - afaik the hope bikes arent commercial, so you cant pull it from markets, but maybe they can claim damages due to brand identity damage or similar with having infringing product at the olympics and marketed as innovation by a competitor.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 20, 2021 23:49
|
|
|
A little late to glasses chat but I have the smith wildcats and really like them, changeable lenses that are quick and easy to swap are nice. I have clear, light tint and dark tint and it takes 30s to swap. They also make transition style lenses, a friend has them and says they're good enough he never swaps them out. Only issue is they take a minute to adjust so going from bright open areas into dark trees can be sketchy at speed.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2021 22:51
|
|
|
Angryhead posted:I want to get a dropper seatpost and a Brand-X Ascend II (no internal routing on my bike) seems like a good budget choice, so I'm looking for a final sanity check so I don't gently caress up and order a size that doesn't fit. I think you are gonna be fine, only other thing id check is the seat rail to bottom of collar distance for the 150 to make sure it'll still fit - I could see there being more than 50mm in the collar and seat post head that could result in it not fitting for you.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 16, 2021 20:14
|
|
|
I have a bike that had terrible headshake when ridden no handed but it's a stable headshake so I got used to riding some the road with a bit of a wobble. It's a weird phenomenon that seems to have to do with a number of things, changing bar bags, bars, wheels, etc seemed to occasionally stabilize things but it ended but being a tweaked fork not sitting quite square to everything else.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 24, 2021 09:22
|
|
|
School of How posted:I've through about buying an already made ebike, but I think the best option is to get a regular bike and then having it converted. There is a bunch of reasons why this method would bet better for me. There's a youtube channel called "Johnny Nerd Out" which is focused on ebike conversion, and that channel has convinced me to go the conversion route. Mainly the reason is because I ride every single day, and eventually I'm going to need to replace the battery, motor or both. If I get an already made ebike, the integrated battery/motor may become discontinued at some point and then may not be available anymore. But a conversion style battery/motor replacement solution should always be available. If you're so concerned about long term durability and the ability to fix things if they break, why is CF a must have? You'll save a couple lbs on a 40+ lbs bike where as welding a cracked aluminum frame is as reasonable as replacing parts of a bafeng motor because it died. I'm gonna guess you will see more failures with a chinese conversion kit over the years than a bose/brose/shimano middrive unit and a real e-bike will have an actual warranty that results in a replaced part if it fails. Why do you want a top of the line bike to slap a bottom of the line conversion kit on? Do you need a 18lbs xtr carbon wheeled bike to put a lovely heavy poorly run conversion mid-drive on it?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2021 18:28
|
|
|
better than shimano?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2021 18:47
|
|
|
yeah but thats sick, putting a bafang on a 10k carbon hardtail is not. OP get a moots
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2021 19:36
|
|
|
weirdest looking bb30 ive ever seen on that bike
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2021 19:55
|
|
|
School of How posted:The already-made ebikes always have super integrated motors and batteries. The fact that they are so integrated means you can't replace them with just any ol' battery, you have to replace it with the exact same model that it was designed with. A custom conversion kit can use pretty much any motor and any battery combination, and it will probably also support future models too. Also, pre-made e-bikes look very nice and expensive, therefore having a higher chance of getting stolen. A custom e-bike looks more jankier, and I feel less likely to be stolen. Thats either a mid-drive motor mount or a gearbox mount, not sure why its says Rohloff in the description but it does say BB30 and theres no way thats a BB30 frame. I get your concerns about parts availability in the future but you can always replace cells in a battery pack if they dont make the packs anymore, and the motors bolt in and out of the frame they arent like cast in there. I really think you're gonna have a better experience with a pre-built ebike, and if you dont have a budget just buy a 7k eeb now and a 7k eeb in the future when you cant get parts for the first one instead of a 10k carbon hardtail and a 2k conversion kit that will ride like poo poo and probably have you not riding dealing with poo poo more often than a nicely setup bike to start. Also with carbon hardtails you're gonna have to worry about clearance for an aftermarket motor around the BB, and I think most XC hardtails use a pressfit BB and you'll need a BSA73 or something based on what I know about XC bikes and conversion kits, which admittedly is limited.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2021 21:33
|
|
|
Never order any safety equipment or anything important from Amazon because of this issue, if you're aren't ok with getting a lovely knockoff buy from somewhere else.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 11, 2021 19:23
|
|
|
wooger posted:Don’t ride with people who are fuckwits. Anyone doing wheelies in a public road are included in that for sure, as is anyone without lights. Dumb idiot group rides drinking beer, doing wheelies, jumps, playing music is the poo poo, sorry you dont like fun. To the OP, ride slow, be aware, be chill and predictable, and remember its about having fun. I do some of the bigger group rides in PDX pedalpalooza and they go well and you're usually moving slow enough that things don't get too out of hand, it can be helpful to blob up with your friends or people riding at your pace so its less likely people will get too close and take you out.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2021 23:02
|
|
|
spf3million posted:First some content helicopter tape is my go-to for things that rub where I dont want them to. Mastic tape for things that rattle.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 20, 2021 22:24
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:From this I'm assuming air is considered better than coil in the bicycle world? I'm pretty new to this stuff, I picked the bike in particular because it was the only one in I could find in the segment with a fork that had both damping adjustment and a 1x Shimano drivetrain, everything else had the preload-only coil fork. Never been a fan of air forks on MX bikes, but in that world it's more a matter of personal preference, the engineering fashion goes back and forth and there isn't a clear winner. I certainly can't complain about how it works now that I've dialled it in. The vast majority of good suspension forks on mtbs are air, mostly for the adjustability and weight. What's funny is that they are often optimized to give a spring curve as close as possible to a coil fork, and some high end suspension companies will offer coil conversion kits for air spring forks.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2021 05:27
|
|
|
Yeah mtb news is half suspension marketing news and spring/damper design and characteristics is super debated and most full sus bikes now include leverage curve, antisquat, anti rise, etc and etc etc in their marketing materials.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2021 21:46
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:When you say anti rise, is that an attempt to mitigate the bike changing shape from heavy pedalling, or is it to mitigate the tail coming up under downhill braking? Anti rise is the resistance to the rear end lengthening under braking, and anti squat is the resistance to compression under pedaling. They both only look at acceleration of the com vs the suspension geometry and don't directly describe affect of downward pedaling forces etc, but are useful to give some insight in how a bike will feel.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2021 00:12
|
|
|
Ola posted:Depends what you want. When you ride a motorcycle with great suspension, it's like discovering fine wine and eschewing the beer of engine horsepower. I don't think you get the same feeling riding a top spec MTB on a bumpy road. I'm not 100% sure the root cause of this, but I think it has to do with sprung/unsprung mass ratio differences between mtb and Motos of various kinds. I think most mtbs being ridden standing up further throws off the ratios of unsprung to sprung mass on the bike to rider mass, and it all makes for a much harsher ride on a bike than a moto. Even a dirt bike feels very different from a dh mtb, even though they're both built for going fast off road.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2021 01:25
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 20, 2024 03:28 |
|
|
Ola posted:There's no physical reason why a bicycle can't be as cleverly supple as a great motorcycle, Sprung to unsprung mass ratio is a huge part of suspension dynamics and can't be entirely mitigated with damper tuning. This is foundational to suspension design. 10lbs of unsprung weight, 20lbs sprung and then a 180lb dynamically sprung rider is a fundamentally different controls problem than a 30lbs unsprung, 200lbs sprung (ballpark MX numbers), 180 lbs dynamically sprung system. This isn't just damper tunes, it has to do with how forces interact with mass to give different perceived control feedback that's just a factor of relative masses. Motos are more of a solved problem than bikes in terms of maturity of designs, but lol if you think modern bike suspension is underdeveloped because it doesn't feel like a motorcycle.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2021 04:17
|
|