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Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

I have an older/cheaper version of that design and yeah, they don't rest right-side up. I use double-sided deore pedals instead

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Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

In fairness there's a reliable maneuver to flip those one-sided SPD pedals with your toe and slide your foot forward to clip in but I never practiced it enough to make it muscle memory :effort:

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

I dunno, I thought they'd be better than bottom-end Deore pedals in some indefinable way (they're not) and they were like $20 tacked on to an order from Europe. It's been like a year or two and I'm still bummed out that you can't order Shimano poo poo from Bike24, Rosebikes, etc. in the US anymore

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

imo this thread (by which I mean the last one, I guess) is good for newbies, with the caveat that the commuter thread will have better advice if they're not interested in buying an actual road bike

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

IS to Flat Mount apdaters technically exist but you really should buy post mount as the adapters will be cheaper and the calipers can be used on flat mount frames, while the reverse isn't possible

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

rope kid posted:

Disc brakes, 1" quill stem, cork grips, and bar end shifters. :dukedog:

get TRP Hylex with the silver drillium levers

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Just sell bikes in sizes large, extra large, extra extra large, mega large and super large. Large is 46cm.

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

I don't think cheap suspension forks that come on hybrids are ever worth it. They sap your momentum and then they break. If you're lucky it'll have a lockout and then it's merely heavy. That said, the economics and viability of "throw out your BSO and get a real bike" are completely hosed right now

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

mAlfunkti0n posted:

Pulled the BB out of my bike today to find ... its totally trashed and sadly after looking at the chain rings they are toast. Teeth are mangled, etc.

Yay.

The BB is a BB-5500 118.5, triple chain ring in the front and a 9 speed cassette. Crank arms are an FC-5505.

The question I guess is .. how does the "lower" end stuff compare to the 105 of 2006? I am just riding or fun, am I really going to notice the Tiagra or whatever it is a step below if I were to transition to that? I just wish bikes weren't so insanely expensive right now, would make the choice much easier.

Tiagra is fine. Anything with a hollowtech II bottom bracket is fine, imo (with the caveat that I haven't ridden the relatively new, extremely cheap, claris-level and below 2-piece cranks). If it makes you feel better you can splurge :10bux: and get a dura ace bottom bracket

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

oh hell no

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Skarsnik posted:

Can someone remind me what tape code name I'm searching for that works really well as a tubeless rim tape?

You're probably thinking of scotch 8896 strapping tape

e: people have been recommending the tape in the post above lately. I haven't tried it because I have what is turning out to be a lifetime supply of 8896.

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

look them up on strava and block

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Ihmemies posted:

I just stumbled upon this. Nikolai G1 EBOXX E14. Made in Germany electric bike with:
- front and rear suspension
- bosch electric motor
- rohloff 14-spd electric hub
- gates belt drive

Prices start from 9000€. Jesus... The things companies produce these days....

https://en.nicolai-bicycles.com/bike/g1-eboxx-e14/



frame has very strong walmart BSO vibes

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

I have an older cateye computer and it has only freaked out and hosed up on me once in like 6 or 7 years. They're pretty simple devices so there isn't really much you can do to cause or prevent that sort of issue, as far as I can tell. If it keeps happening, send it back. Most people itt swear by garmin, even as they swear about their garmin

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Sneeing Emu posted:

What's the go-to colder weather face warming device? I was looking at the classic Buff in lightweight wool. I'm in central Texas, so it rarely gets super cold, but I'll probably need some sort of face covering in the winter.

A merino buff should do you fine. If it doesn't you can always upgrade to the ski goggles and balaclava later

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Sab0921 posted:

The dumbest term in cycling is clipless pedals which are pedals that you clip to your shoe.

otoh it’s a great opportunity to launch into a rambling fifteen minute diatribe explaining toe clips to your grandchildren

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

ruining your bike with a not-invented-here seatpost or seatpost collar is so loving stupid

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

I like defeet's wool gloves (and their full synthetic ones for that matter) but they also appear to be sold out in a lot of sizes

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

I have the newest aftershoks and yeah, they will definitely get drowned out by a busy street. Sound quality is definitely good enough for podcasts, kinda meh for music, and these are supposedly the best ones. Battery life is good and I've had no dropped audio or disconnects

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

I think they couldn't sell any except with the ~50% off corporate discount (and why would you pay more if you knew about the discount?) so they gave up. I have my Tamland frameset set up for grocery runs so I still ride it more than any other bike

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Zonko_T.M. posted:

After multiple flats due to the nasty thorns lying on the ground around here, I'm looking for tires that are more resilient, or some way to help the current tires stand up to the abuse. I've got 700cx40mm WTB Byway Tires for my gravel bike. I'll probably switch the tubes to a set with slime in them. Any recommendations on tires that are more puncture resistant?

If you can't go tubeless, at least put a good tubeless sealant in your tubes (orange seal, stan's) instead of loving slime, which is an entirely worthless product

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Pliers are waaay easier. Also, something like this is way better too for the lock ring.

Park Tool FR-5.2H Cassette Lockring Tool with Handle - Fits Shimano, SRAM, SunRace, SunTour, Chris King, Others https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FXXDJX7/

I'm going to buy this just so that SRAM and Shimano both come out with mutually incompatible cassette lockrings next year :unsmigghh:

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

meltie posted:

congrats on the metric ton, those are Good Days.

I also lost access to most of my cassette a few weeks ago. It became a game of riding with what the bike would give me, and not stressing out about it too much.

The problem was the same as yours, but at the other end of the bike:



is this shimano first-gen 11-speed (9000, 8000, 7000 series)? They're known to shred the end of cables like that. I don't know if they fixed it in the current gen

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud posted:

Is 7000-series first-gen 11 speed? I thought the 7-series 105s were the current generation.



oops, you're right, I meant the 5800, 6800 etc. generation. I think it's caused by the shifter mechanism having a super tight bend right at the end of the cable

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

that incarnation of the grand prix is a travel bike with a design similar to ritchey breakaway frames. I'm sad I didn't buy one when they were super cheap on amazon

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

now I wanna build up a microshift (or nashbar-branded 9-speed microshift :q:) carbon colnago to gently caress with people

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

gohuskies posted:

If folks haven't seen Primoz Roglic in his early bike racing:



A mountain bike, running shoes and flat pedals, kickstand, and still shredding serious roadies. True talent really separates people.


:eyepop: a kickstand

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

The Wiggly Wizard posted:

from the rivendell newsletter



isn't this exactly what those plastic breakaway clamps for fender stays are designed to prevent?

e: :doh: I guess if a stick catches the stay it wouldn't help all that much

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

yeah, VO is a little pricey, I spent like $15 more and got berthoud fenders from ben's cycle instead :coolfish:

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Saris Bones is probably the best cheaper option for a rack. Other than that, yeah take the wheels off or put your back seat down.

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Levitate posted:

the radavist loves it

only if that is a $99 bespoke leather derailleur strap

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004


Hey, I had a very similar problem when I tried running 1x with a bar end shifter. For whatever reason, friction shifting seems to make it easy to pull your chain off the chainring. The best solution is a narrow-wide chainring IMO

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

look at alpkit for cheaper jumbo saddle bags

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

I thought doing a presta -> schrader mod on rims was considered relatively harmless?


I vastly prefer presta myself, because you deflate them without a tool and there’s no chance they’ll get clogged with filth if you lose your valve cap. If you think they’re less reliable than schrader for some reason you must’ve had a lovely batch of tubes

e: presta also usually has removable/replaceable valve cores, which makes tubeless a hell of a lot easier

Clark Nova fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Jul 12, 2021

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Heliosicle posted:

Would I notice much speed increase going from Schwalbe G one allrounds (in 27.5x1.50) to Gravelking slicks? This would be for my commuter.

I'm slow as heck in general on it, usually average 20kph putting in a reasonable effort. Think I'd be doing 30+ on my road bike for the same effort. According to rollingresistance.com the higher quality version of the tyres on there now that they tested are pretty slow already (although I have them at a higher pressure than you can view the resistance for in free mode). There's lots of other power loss sources on there, through the Nexus 8 hub and from the belt drive, but maybe I can increase my speed by 2/3 kph for the same effort.

E: duh, bike also has front and rear always-on dynamos so I'm probably losing energy from that too

My (subjective) experience is that the schwalbe one compound tires roll faster than panaracers

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004


FYI you can make your own nipple driver for traditional spoke nipples relatively easily

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Grouchio posted:

What's the best brand of electric bikes on the market for commuting? Willing to spend up to $1500. I have no drivers license.

you may get better answers in the commuting thread or ebike thread

e:f;b

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Rad-daddio posted:

I'll admit I bought some knockoff Shimano cleats off Amazon. 7 bucks vs 25 was kinda hard to resist.


I went on one short ride with some nashbar pedals I bought where extracting my goddamned foot from the little bastard felt dangerous so I do not gently caress around with off-brand cleats or clipless pedals


numberoneposter posted:

last thing i bought on ebay was a guy fieri funko pop i hope its not a fake :ohdear:


unless you are going to gently caress the funkopop it isn't a potential safety issue

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

truavatar posted:

Thanks! Reading a few reviews/articles about it, this seems like it could be pretty much just what I'm looking for - a lower end/intro road bike that can stand up to some dirt and gravel. If it's really around 2015, that's pretty reasonable. It also looks like it has regular pedals, which is a good place for me to start since I don't have cleated cycling shoes yet.

Wish it wasn't 2 hours away, but if that's what I gotta do, I can do it.

Any immediate red flags, or any specific questions I should ask the seller? The listing is pretty limited.


Hey, I had this exact bike for a couple of years - I got it on clearance from Jenson for $500. The frame is resonably light and stiff and it was fun to ride. The problems I had with it were that it only fit 700c x 35mm max tires, which is pretty low by gravel bike standards, and that the bottom-end FSA crankset it came with had atrocious chain suck problems, which went away immediately when I put an old 105 crank on it

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Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

wooger posted:

How long exactly is sealant meant to last?

Do people open their tyre up to check the state of it regularly?

Pretty sure I ride (road) with some people with tubeless setups who’ve never maintained, cleared or added sealant in their lives.

about three months, give or take. orange seal endurance can last like six months

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