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FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

rope kid posted:

Friends, please help. I got a Sugino Impel triple crank, 42/32/22 (I think), 94 BCD. I bought a Wolf Tooth 94 BCD 28t chainring to replace the 32 (plan to just drop the 22), so I would have 42/28. Yeah, cool great.

The problem (?) is that the chainring bolt holes are threaded and the chainring at those locations is thick enough that it basically takes up the entire length of the male part of the stock chainring bolts. So it can't thread into the female part of the chainring bolt and I'm not really sure what the intention is here.

Are there extra-long chainring bolts for Wolf Tooth chainrings that can thread through their inner chainring and into the crank/outer chainring on the other side?

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/94-bcd-for-5-arm-cranks

I admit I may also have missed something in the product text here.

Edit: ??? https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/chainring-bolts/products/chainring-bolts


If that's the chainring you bought, you'll need to get a different one. That's a narrow-wide chain ring meant for 1x setups, if you can even manage to get it to work it will shift like poo poo.

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FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

rope kid posted:

Cool. Two more parts for the dustbin. I guess by "vintage cranks" they meant "vintage cranks that you want to convert to 1x".

It seems pretty hard to find 94 BCD chainrings in the 30-28t range.

Edit: Hmm maybe not???

Edit x2: Oh, that's the confusion. The crank has a 95 BCD and somehow the Wolf Tooth chainring showed up for me on a search even though it's a 94 BCD. Cool, I love the bike industry. I love the republic.

It looks like all the Impel cranks online are 94 BCD. If you had the rings off already and the wolf tooth ring lined up, its the right BCD. If it is 94 BCD this 30t from Vuelta on a quick search should work. If there's a local bike coop/kitchen near you they might have a old ring that might work too if it hasn't been picked clean in the past couple months.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

Blade_of_tyshalle posted:

Hi, bike folks. I'm a pretty casual cyclist so far, doing like 2 or 3 outings weekly of 20-30 km each time, though in June I did 605km for Strava's 600km challenge because I wanted to see if I could do it.

One of my recurring issues is that my hands loving hurt while riding due to my wrists being bent no matter how hard I try to keep them straight. My bike currently has a stock straightish bar, I'm thinking of swapping it out for a drop bar, but that's going to require a whole new set of shifters and I assume new cabling. I've never done that kind of work, though; should I just get a shop to do it for me? Will drops even solve my problem? Am I going to need a new derailleur for new shifters?

I want to be able to do the 265km path around a local lake, and right now I doubt my ability to do so without horrible pain, so any advice is appreciated. Thanks, y'all.

I'd try some swept back handlebars first since you'll have a lot less to swap, everything should switch over fine. The Jones H-Bar is on the pricier end, but you can get something similar for a bit cheaper. I think you can get some Origin8 ones for ~35 bucks. This site, WhatBars lets you overlay the shape of a bunch of different models to compare them.

E: if you keep 'flat' style bars too, Ergon makes grips that help to keep your hands in a more natural position

FireTora fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Jul 31, 2020

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

Those are IS brake tabs. They use those aluminum adapters to use post mount brakes, I've never seen a IS only brake caliper. Flat mount is a newer thing that started on road bikes that is smaller and weighs less.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

I haven't had any issues with my Magene one. I think mine was ~$12 from aliexpress. The first battery lasted something like 2000 miles. Been a little worse since then but that might be on the batteries I'm using since they're pretty old.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

Digital Jedi posted:

Does Bear Pope still exist?
I bought gear many years ago and like to buy some new stuff.

Yeah, the thread is still in SA-Mart. The latest shop just ended like a week ago though.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

They're not rated for it, but with how tough Marathons are you can probably run those tubeless without any issues.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

Tørm is well regarded. Haven't got any of theirs myself yet but plan to next time I need a new jersey.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

MrL_JaKiri posted:

Because balance bikes are better for learning (apparently), and this is the only best balance bike in the world

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

It's that time of the year again! VeloViewer season! Just finished the Festive 500, might do 10km more tomorrow if I need to go to the store, but this is probably it.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

spf3million posted:

I got into a high speed shimmy on my ride yesterday, scared the poo poo out of me. I had just merged across an exit ramp of sorts heading into a -8.5% grade getting up to about 42 mph according to strava.

Yeah that descent can be a bit sketch. I hit my speed record of like ~55 on that a few years back. Never did that again, the road grating for rain drainage plus the traffic makes it pretty terrifying.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

Yeah, I always take the lane on that one to avoid having to deal with that 'exit'. It's not bad most of the time, but it gets super trafficed by commuters in the afternoon trying to avoid 680.
Almost 58 apparnetly

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004


Islands are definitely not better than bikes.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

spf3million posted:

Has anyone found good socks to go with the TrashKit?
The donut ones are Defeet, the rest were just googling for trash racoon socks.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

MrL_JaKiri posted:

Routing wise I find it's 1000x better to make a route on ridewithgps or strava or such rather than try to make one with the actual internal route builder.

Definitely, the real secret is that garmin connect has a drat good route planner on their site that has all the historic route data baked in like strava. They loving hide it in courses under the training menu though instead of pushing it.
e: if you use a garmin

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

Biggus Duckus posted:

True, but Panaracer actually works well. Though it does dry quickly, from what I hear.

Yeah, I just finished off my 2nd bottle of Panaracer, wanted to try it since its one of the more natural ones with the walnut shells and stuff. Was almost as good as orangeseal for most holes, just needs more media since all the shells would get stuck and just leave liquid after a while.

And yeah, dries out pretty fast, way faster than endurance, don't remember if I ever used normal. I used up the ~2L I bought in 12-18? months between 2 sets of 650x48 tires on one bike and a pair of 700x25 to finish it. Dont recall when I first got it, but I'd lean towards the 12 months

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

Yeah, Bearpope is in the mart, https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3885509. FredLordofCheese does it.

I just ordered a couple kits to help you out at the end. It's too bad it didn't work out for you in the long run, I liked your style.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

In the spirit of stupid long rides, I did a 300k on Wednesday. I attempted one at the start of July but a rock slashed my sidewall at ~180 km so I had to bail.





Awesome ride! Looks boringly straight.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

Not a horrible year, did my first 300k after my first attempt ended at 183 with a slashed sidewall. No F500, the weather hasn't been great the last 2 months so I haven't done anything big in a while. Hopefully moving somewhere with hills again in the summer so I can get some actual elevation again.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

Jato posted:

I am moving next week from The Netherlands to the US and bringing a bike with me on the flight using a cardboard bike box. Does anyone who has done this before have any specific tips on avoiding damage? I've packed the bike up fairly well and it feels pretty good in the box but I'm just worried about a luggage handler piling suitcases on it or throwing it around. I guess the best thing I can do is just try to make it as clear as possible that the contents of the box are fragile via writing on the outside?

So far I've wrapped the frame in bubble wrap, arranged it like this (actually I ended up putting the rear wheel back onto the frame because it fit better), lowered it into the box and then added some bath towels for additional padding.


:rip: on the move. I'm moving back to :911: from Denmark in a couple months.

Not much you can do to protect the bike outside of lots of padding, on my last flight the chainring busted through the bottom of the box before it got to me. I'd flip the front wheel around, or take off your disc to keep it from scratching the frame, a lot of people recommend taking them off to prevent bending but I haven't had a issue with that before. A dummy axles to keep the fork from getting squished together is a good idea too.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

Bud Manstrong posted:

there it is

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)


RacistsSuck posted:

This guy sucks!

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)


e.pilot posted:

they always show their hand eventually

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

Don't dogpile! But dog whistling is A-OK!

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

spf3million posted:

I'm switching to wax, are there any particular hot melt brands that are good? Or are they all going to be the same to me, the amateur slow biker? Comedy (or not?) option, I have bee hives and have a fair amount of beeswax collected with no particular use for it.

I'd just use 100% paraffin, won't have the other poo poo in the wax, but its very marginal gains at that point. Also will cost was less.

FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

You should: wear a helmet, because it is safer
You shouldn't: helmet shame and disparage peoples riding decisions when there is no law mandating it. Make recommendations and suggestions with reasons why, don't tell them to wear a helmet because its safer and they're being stupid if they don't.

Encourage people to ride more bikes in anyway they can, helmet shamming just puts people off.

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FireTora
Oct 6, 2004

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