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Check the tires for any sign of dry rot or fine cracks.
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Sep 23, 2020 18:16
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I have a 10 speed SRAM apex crankset and my non drive side crank is loose. I’ve tried tightening it but within a few miles it is a little loose again. I’m tightening the smaller inside bolt as much as I can and then tightening the outside cap against that. Have I wallowed out the splines and it’s done for at this point? Or is there anything I should be doing to get it to stay on and rigid.
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Sep 25, 2020 15:26
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Anachronist posted:I have a 10 speed SRAM apex crankset and my non drive side crank is loose. I’ve tried tightening it but within a few miles it is a little loose again. I’m tightening the smaller inside bolt as much as I can and then tightening the outside cap against that. Have I wallowed out the splines and it’s done for at this point? Or is there anything I should be doing to get it to stay on and rigid. GXP or BB30? I assume GXP since you say NDS crank. You shouldn't do anything with the outside cap (the 10mm one). You should almost certainly be tightening down the 8mm inside bolt WAY harder than you are. 50Nm is more than you think. If you are tightening it to full spec and it's still coming loose, then yeah the only things that can be wrong are the endcap-bolt or the spindle. Maaybe it'd be having issues if you are a combo where you need the wave washer but aren't using it? I think that's only pressfit GXP. https://www.sram.com/globalassets/d...om-brackets.pdf If the spindle still looks okay, maybe try replacing the endcap-bolt in the NDS crank, but failing that I think it's time to upgrade. bicievino fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Sep 25, 2020 |
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Sep 25, 2020 15:37
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Yes GXP. There is a little washer with a spindle shaped hole between the BB and crank that I am using. I will try really torquing the bolt and see how that helps. Maybe some threadlocker too? I don’t have a wave washer but skimming that pdf it looks like that is only for pressfit BBs. Mine is threaded.
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Sep 25, 2020 16:58
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So I think I’m dead in the water with the repairs due to missing one tiny item: the ferrule thing that gets crimped onto the end of the shifter cable. 😡 I was going to replace my chain first, then install the new wire. Going through the park tool videos on chain replacement, you need a functioning derailleur to install and test the chain. Since I don’t have the cable installed, I decided to tackle that repair, instead. Went and looked at videos for cable replacement to get this started. Turns out that the cable didn’t come with any ferrules. WTF? So now I gotta track down where to get these. I’m sure they can be ordered online, but paying shipping for 15 cent pieces of metal? I’d rather not. Rant over, question time: I don’t have a bicycle specific cable cutter/crimper. But, I do have a cutter/crimped from electronics and soldering days. Would my electric wire cutter/crimper work?
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Sep 26, 2020 15:06
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I just use a leatherman to crimp the ferrule. It’ll be fine to ride without one on there until you can get one.
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Sep 26, 2020 15:07
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I just capped a cable end the other day using heat-shrink tubing for electronics. Hasn't frayed yet. I tried solder once and it didn't work out but I might have just needed more flux.
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Sep 26, 2020 15:14
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The main thing you want a real bike cable cutter for is for trimming cable housing, and even then it's probably easier to get it cut straight with no burrs using a dremel or similar
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Sep 26, 2020 15:21
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Dolemite posted:
I have a whole bunch of these, I can drop a few in the mail for you if you're in the US.
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Sep 26, 2020 15:24
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Dolemite posted:WTF? quote:I’m sure they can be ordered online, but paying shipping for 15 cent pieces of metal? I’d rather not. quote:Would my electric wire cutter/crimper work?
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Sep 26, 2020 16:27
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Anachronist posted:Yes GXP. There is a little washer with a spindle shaped hole between the BB and crank that I am using. I will try really torquing the bolt and see how that helps. Maybe some threadlocker too? I don’t have a wave washer but skimming that pdf it looks like that is only for pressfit BBs. Mine is threaded. I had this same issue. I know I installed it to spec initially but it eventually worked loose. I re-torqued it and everything has been fine since, so I'd try that before using threadlocker. As stated though, 50NM is a lot of force so if you don't have a torque wrench don't be afraid to really crank it down.
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Sep 26, 2020 17:28
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I have an apex gxp crankset on my travel bike, and don't bother with a torque wrench when I travel, I just crank the fucker down like hell.
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Sep 26, 2020 17:36
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sram and shimano cranks are absolutely fine without a torque wrench. The FSA cranks with the pinch bolts are the ones you have to watch out for (and maybe they still gently caress up even with proper torque? Don't know, don't care).
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Sep 26, 2020 17:49
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Dolemite posted:Went and looked at videos for cable replacement to get this started. Turns out that the cable didn’t come with any ferrules. WTF? So now I gotta track down where to get these. I’m sure they can be ordered online, but paying shipping for 15 cent pieces of metal? I’d rather not. Use a drop of super glue.
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Sep 26, 2020 20:47
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sweat poteto posted:Use a drop of super glue. The ends of cables come glued from the factory, this is what I'd go with.
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Sep 27, 2020 05:35
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I've been super gluing end caps instead of crimping them for the last few years, it leads to way less fraying
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Sep 27, 2020 12:43
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I use epoxy.
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Sep 28, 2020 20:16
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Thufir posted:I have a whole bunch of these, I can drop a few in the mail for you if you're in the US. That would be awesome! I'm probably going to go ahead and replace the other cables, so it would be nice to have some ferrules on hand. I don't have DMs on here, so you can email me at jmgolz at gmail dot com. kimbo305 posted:You bought a cable and housing? Just the cable? If the latter, I'm not that surprised. Yeah, just the cable. I assumed that it would come with a ferrule. Lesson learned! --- Thanks again for the all of the advice! Looks like I can go ahead and make the repairs! This will be a great way to spend a rainy day.
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Sep 29, 2020 15:12
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I installed an externally routed dropper last week. The process went smoothly enough, but when I cut the cable after routing it through the lever, the cable went *SPROINGGG*. I was, initially, loving mad because this sucks a bunch, but after 10-15 minutes of fiddling with it, I tucked all the stray pubes into the cap and crimped the sumbitch down anyway. Thanks for the advice, next time I'll have a better idea.
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Sep 29, 2020 19:54
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I made a tutorial to share with aspiring wheel builders for calculating spoke lengths. https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1ULyPizAvmtR_SJlOeXDUb4XNIsOIiFklmvbsKRrEAMQ/edit?usp=sharing I did not make a tutorial on how to physically measure a hub and rim. Figure that out yourself.
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Sep 29, 2020 19:57
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CopperHound posted:I made a tutorial to share with aspiring wheel builders for calculating spoke lengths. I've seen formulas tossed around, but nothing that in depth really.
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Sep 29, 2020 21:32
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The guy I get spokes from won't let you do the math. He has a strict 'I-cut = I-measure' policy and I can imagine all the fun mistakes that led to him having to do that.
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Sep 29, 2020 22:04
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Has anyone had trouble with monarch shocks sticking down? My rc3 is stuck down, sounds like common problem and that I need to do an air can service and replace the seals to fix it. NSMB make it sound common but an easy fix https://nsmb.com/articles/care-for-your-debonair/ I’ve removed all the air and the shock is fully compressed, which the SRAM manual says means there is still air pressure in the can, and I should put a rag through the eyelet to stop the shock exploding apart. Straight under this is a warning saying don’t dis-assemble a pressurised shock, which kind of contradicts the previous instruction. I think the air pressure must be in the negative spring, and I’m ok to take the shock apart as long as I do the rag through the eyelet part, is that right? Also, none of the guides say how difficult removing the mounting hardware is without the tool ha, they just say take the hardware off like everything slides apart no problem
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Sep 30, 2020 20:47
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Does this chainring look ok, or is it due for replacement? Edit: struggling with phone posting. 
MalleusDei fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Oct 1, 2020 |
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Oct 1, 2020 03:06
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Dolemite posted:
As others said - don't use an electrical wire cutter Your best bet is go down to the local auto parts store and buy a steel cable cutter from there. A cheap one will be $5-$10 and you'll be able to get it immediately instead of waiting for shipping on an expensive bike specific tool. While you are there you can pick up an awl to tidy up the inner sheath of the outer after you cut it with them.
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Oct 1, 2020 04:06
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Realized I ought to have posted this here, not in the MTB thread. Where might I find a Shimano I spec II mounting bracket for a dropper remote in the time of Covid? I had a wee bit of a crash on the weekend and the mounting piece sheared off in the fall. Impossible to find locally. As far as I can tell it's a generic mount that came on my 2018 Stumpjumper. The dropper post is a X-Fusion Manic. Below pic shows the sheared mounting bracket on the left and the dropper lever on the right.
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Oct 1, 2020 05:44
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MalleusDei posted:Does this chainring look ok, or is it due for replacement?
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Oct 1, 2020 08:02
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CopperHound posted:The big ring? There is some wear, but I see people riding much worse without trouble. If it shifts fine and new chains mate up nicely without any gaps between it and the rollers there is no harm in going until the teeth get more deformed. Thanks, some of the teeth looked a little shark finny, so I wanted a second opinion.
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Oct 2, 2020 08:10
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MalleusDei posted:Thanks, some of the teeth looked a little shark finny, so I wanted a second opinion. On a 2x drivetrain, the big ring teeth will have different profiles to facilitate the upshift...this trips people out sometimes. The small ring's teeth should be uniform.
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Oct 2, 2020 08:53
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norp posted:While you are there you can pick up an awl to tidy up the inner sheath of the outer after you cut it with them. Or if you have a busted wheel you've yet to cut up or a snapped spoke laying around just make a pokey spoke with a grinder or file. A spoke ground down to a point is an incredibly useful shop tool.
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Oct 2, 2020 15:23
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Is there any practicality to put sealant in a tube? Trying to max out my wife's flat protection without springing for tubeless tires until these Michelin Pro4 Endurance 28 clinchers wear out (and she's not gonna be fixing a flat out on the road on her own).
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Oct 2, 2020 16:18
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Hawkline posted:Is there any practicality to put sealant in a tube? Trying to max out my wife's flat protection without springing for tubeless tires until these Michelin Pro4 Endurance 28 clinchers wear out (and she's not gonna be fixing a flat out on the road on her own). Yep it works well, not as well as true tubeless, but a lot better than nothing.
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Oct 2, 2020 16:29
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EvilJoven posted:Or if you have a busted wheel you've yet to cut up or a snapped spoke laying around just make a pokey spoke with a grinder or file. A spoke ground down to a point is an incredibly useful shop tool. So many uses for a broken spoke, I'd never considered this one. Everywhere I've worked on bikes uses the cheapest engineers' scriber on ebay. 
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Oct 2, 2020 16:29
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Sometimes I make double butted or bladed pokey spokes just so I can look down my nose at plebs using straight gauge pokey spokes.  Edit: another incredibly useful spoke based tool is to curl the spoke around tight to make a handle and affix the magnet from a speed sensor on the two ends, using the j bend for additional security. Use that thing to fish bearings out of hubs and stuff. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Oct 2, 2020 |
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Oct 2, 2020 16:33
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EvilJoven posted:Sometimes I make double butted or bladed pokey spokes just so I can look down my nose at plebs using straight gauge pokey spokes. 
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Oct 2, 2020 18:14
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If you’re waxing your chain and not using a connex link I don’t know what to tell you
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Oct 2, 2020 18:18
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:If you’re waxing your chain and not using a connex link I don’t know what to tell you
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Oct 2, 2020 18:20
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:If you’re waxing your chain and not using a connex link I don’t know what to tell you Calm down, I just used a stock photo!
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Oct 2, 2020 18:35
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EvilJoven posted:Sometimes I make double butted or bladed pokey spokes just so I can look down my nose at plebs using straight gauge pokey spokes. Pro-pro-tip. You can also slide some housing over your homemade spoke tool for a bit of a better grip and to make it magnetic so you can stick it to your toolbox or truing stand or whatever. I also used to cut down nipples and thread them onto the spoke backwards leaving a few threads exposed. Its super useful to hold a new nipple in place when you need to insert it into a rim. I got the EVT nipple holder and never looked back though.
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Oct 2, 2020 18:39
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:If you’re waxing your chain and not using a connex link I don’t know what to tell you Is that similar to the quick link on a KMC chain or does it have some special sauce to it? Answered my own question. Connex links can be installed/removed tool free. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-JRkZwuLAs Coredump fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Oct 2, 2020 |
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Oct 2, 2020 20:00
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