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i say swears online
Mar 4, 2005

medio de fonte leporum surgo amariter




i have a big heavy 1982 trek 520 that's a road/touring bike, but it has two gears on the front chainring and steep hills suck. i want to go triple before my next tour but my LBS suggested putting on an ovular triple on the front. i watched a youtube video and kinda understand it, but is it worth it for my type of bike? bike shop guy sounds a little evangelist for them so i want a second opinion

vvvv cool, thank you

i say swears online fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Apr 19, 2021

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eSporks
Jun 10, 2011



Ovoid chainrings come and go as a fad. There has been contradictory evidence as to whether they actually work or not, and personal anecdotes vary.

If you want it, go for it, if you don't, don't let anyone talk you into it.

My personal experience is that they are good for a single speed. Out if the saddles mashing at a low RPM feels smoother. I don't notice it in any other scenario.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Your authority is not recognized in Fort Kickass.


I might have screwed up my cable length, and my front brake line has been rubbing against the head tube on my frame when I turn right and there's some light scratches. I stuck some clear 3M vinyl on there because I don't want to fix it. Anyway just here to confess, see ya.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015



i say swears online posted:

i have a big heavy 1982 trek 520 that's a road/touring bike, but it has two gears on the front chainring and steep hills suck. i want to go triple before my next tour but my LBS suggested putting on an ovular triple on the front. i watched a youtube video and kinda understand it, but is it worth it for my type of bike? bike shop guy sounds a little evangelist for them so i want a second opinion

vvvv cool, thank you

Oval chainrings are real faddy, and won't make a noticeable difference if your gearing just isn't easy enough for steep hills. They particularly don't work well with front shifting.

To actually solve your issue - do you need a triple, or do you need just easier gears? i.e. how often are you using your hardest gears?
Going to a triple will require a new crankset and new rear derailleur. Going to just an easier double will either require just new chainrings, or maybe a new crankset, but your rear derailleur should be okay.

i say swears online
Mar 4, 2005

medio de fonte leporum surgo amariter




Yeah frankly I've got a really nice legacy front derailleur that I dont wanna get rid of. I'm at like a 52/40 or something insane, I just didnt want to get a double and not have it be enough. I'm rarely if ever in my topmost gear

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015



i say swears online posted:

Yeah frankly I've got a really nice legacy front derailleur that I dont wanna get rid of. I'm at like a 52/40 or something insane, I just didnt want to get a double and not have it be enough. I'm rarely if ever in my topmost gear

I think if you want any more specific advice we'll need to know the details of your current drivetrain.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003



bicievino posted:

I think if you want any more specific advice we'll need to know the details of your current drivetrain.
this, and whether you actually use the top end.

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CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012



i say swears online posted:

I just didnt want to get a double and not have it be enough. I'm rarely if ever in my topmost gear
I am a bit crazy and run a 24t/40t double. I find the range good for me with a cassette that goes down to 11t. I spend 97% of the time in my 40t chainring and use the 24t as a bailout.

It was a bit too slow with a freewheel that only went down to 14t.


Also, setting up shifting is a lot easier with a double than a triple when you have chainrings that aren't matched.

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