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kimbo305 posted:Of all the places Surly decides to spare some metal... seems a bit mad right? they sell them stock with sram SX eagle stuff so its not like this combo is unlikely
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May 2, 2021 17:54
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Maybe it's so the steel hanger will bend more easily during contact to save your derailleur from damage? Like a contact cushion of sorts?
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May 2, 2021 18:40
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On diagrams for hanger requirements, I don't see many places listing size requirements for the tab (or claw, as it's labeled in one place). The radius of the round part of the hanger (about which the b-screw rotates) is 8mm or max 8.5mm. Shimano has an old SIS standard diagram that recommends the tab stick out to 11.5-12.5mm (radius from hanger pivot) On an older X5/7/9 spec diagram, the range is 11.5-13.5. But even SRAM's Universal Derailleur Hanger standard doesn't advertise a size for its own tab.
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May 2, 2021 18:54
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Sooo i think i've found a solution. I can buy a eagle xx1/x01 parts kit which'll fit on to my NX and it looks like the bit which catches the tab is chunkier. video is for an unrelated problem with the nx but shows all the parts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcnpBxeb4Nw e: ugh, it's £25. gently caress it im just gonna ride it how it is and see if it breaks. hemale in pain fucked around with this message at 01:20 on May 3, 2021 |
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May 2, 2021 23:56
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Typically the contact patch there is just the corner of the b-tension screw. So like, I wouldn't stress it unless something happens, or it looks like it could slip.
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May 3, 2021 18:07
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Pooper Hero posted:Are you using WD-40 with the steel wool? That makes it a lot easier and more effective. Just did the rims tonight and this did the trick, thanks a ton! Got both rims done tonight in a reasonable amount of time. Dren posted:if you can soak them, this stuff gets rid of rust I'm gonna keep this on my list to buy, I'm going to be finding a container to soak rims in to hopefully speed up the whole process. It's a garage bike repair shop necessity I'm realizing
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May 5, 2021 01:41
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Is there a term for chainrings that are fused to the crank arm on cheap square taper cranksets? The example I have looks like the chainring is held on by one giant rivet in the center. Out of curiosity, I've tried googling about every set of descriptive terms I can think of for them and I've come up with nothing.
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May 5, 2021 03:20
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:Is there a term for chainrings that are fused to the crank arm on cheap square taper cranksets? The example I have looks like the chainring is held on by one giant rivet in the center. Out of curiosity, I've tried googling about every set of descriptive terms I can think of for them and I've come up with nothing. Like this?:  That's swaged.
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May 5, 2021 03:37
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Yes, that's exactly it! Thank you!
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May 5, 2021 03:45
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Any recommendations for a maintenance stand for occasional home use? Or a good inexpensive way to hold up a bike (like something I can mount directly to a wall?). The Park Tool stands are all too fancy and professional and expensive for the little use they'd see, but I don't want to buy some $50 piece of crap on Amazon that's going to fall apart in 20 minutes. There's got to be some kind of in-between.
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May 5, 2021 15:02
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FISHMANPET posted:Any recommendations for a maintenance stand for occasional home use? Or a good inexpensive way to hold up a bike (like something I can mount directly to a wall?). The Park Tool stands are all too fancy and professional and expensive for the little use they'd see, but I don't want to buy some $50 piece of crap on Amazon that's going to fall apart in 20 minutes. There's got to be some kind of in-between. I've had this Amazon one for a year and have hit things it was holding with a 5 lb hammer and it's still super solid. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089QBLP6R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_Y43QVN16F9XVM20D935D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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May 5, 2021 15:06
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FogHelmut posted:I've had this Amazon one for a year and have hit things it was holding with a 5 lb hammer and it's still super solid. Yeah these types are fine for most home use, they're sold under a million different brand names but they're basically all the same. I'd recommend getting one with 4 legs like the one in that link rather than the 5-legged ones that are fairly common. You can set it up by pulling apart two opposing legs which is easier and puts a bit less stress on them.
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May 5, 2021 20:36
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I have a bike hand stand that’s really good https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2GK3SRZKRR2ZX0T4WFKJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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May 6, 2021 01:09
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I have that one too and it's pretty good, not perfect but as good as a friend's parktool stand is
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May 6, 2021 01:12
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Euro style front wheel stand for life
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May 6, 2021 01:18
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It’s been a long time since I worked on stem and bars. 1. Grease stem bolts or just blue threadlocker? 2. Grease bar at contact point with stem? It’s an aluminum bar no carbon involved.
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May 6, 2021 05:23
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(1) I normally just grease and torque to spec but don’t guess threadlocker would hurt? (2) No grease, but will use carbon paste if carbon is involved.
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May 6, 2021 05:39
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Voodoofly posted:It’s been a long time since I worked on stem and bars. You can grease the bolts but don't grease the stem. Assuming you have cartridge bearings in the headset take a moment to put some grease on them so they don't bond to the cups.
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May 6, 2021 14:03
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Some thoughts
Personally, I wouldn't lubricate stem bolts at all. The materials involved (steel bolts, threads tapped into an aluminum stem) are naturally quite soft, the forces involved are extremely low, and the area doesn't get heat cycled in any way that would promote seizing. The cockpit components (brakes, shifters, dropper control, grips) are typically fastened with such small diameter bolts that by lubricating them you're only going to overtighten to the point of stripping them accidentally. I'm trying to think if I lubricate any bolts on my bikes and I'm pretty sure I don't. Bolts that I do lubricate (with anti-seize) includes car stuff like lug nuts that will be adjacent to the brake rotor, and other assorted large diameter bolts that get fastened very tightly that I don't want to fight the next time I remove them. I don't think threadlocker is indicated for this usage either but it's not as big a deal IMO to use it, the 5mm bolts are large enough that you won't have issues removing them with even liberal amounts of blue loctite on them. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 16:01 on May 6, 2021 |
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May 6, 2021 15:54
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VelociBacon posted:lubricating them you're only going to overtighten to the point of stripping them accidentally. As someone who's ripped the threads out of carbon stems due to getting carbon gripper paste's carrier fluid wick into the stem bolts I no longer use anything near there
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May 6, 2021 17:18
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I was working on bikes earlier today and checked and I didn’t have have any grease on cockpit stuff, so sorry for bad info there. I do use carbon paste though on bars and seat posts. (Edit: when carbon is involved before a goon flips there mind and misreads this.)
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May 6, 2021 17:26
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Y'all are talking like people who've never had to remove seized bolts from a bike someone sweat on. Please grease stem bolts.
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May 6, 2021 17:44
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VelociBacon posted:I'm trying to think if I lubricate any bolts on my bikes and I'm pretty sure I don't. Bolts that I do lubricate (with anti-seize) includes car stuff like lug nuts that will be adjacent to the brake rotor, and other assorted large diameter bolts that get fastened very tightly that I don't want to fight the next time I remove them. SimonSays posted:Y'all are talking like people who've never had to remove seized bolts from a bike someone sweat on. Please grease stem bolts.
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May 7, 2021 10:48
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evil_bunnY posted:Pedals are the only threads I grease AFAICR Pedals and bottom brackets are the only things I put anti seize on, everything else gets a dab of blue loctite and it's worked out okay for me.
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May 7, 2021 12:55
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I put grease on everything and have been for thirty years. YES EVERYTHING
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May 7, 2021 15:24
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bicievino posted:I put grease on everything and have been for thirty years. Partner on bed, giving you the fluttery eyes: "C'mon babe, im ready for you~" bicievino: "Wait a second, I'm greasing up!" ElMaligno fucked around with this message at 17:32 on May 7, 2021 |
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May 7, 2021 16:05
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I noticed my drivetrain is a lot louder when it’s in the big ring. The noise seems to come from the rear derailleur. Google searching I’ve found people with similar issues but not really a definitive answer for the cause or resolution. Basically I could repeat word for word what the op says here, except it’s an 11 speed cassette in my case: https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13012957/noisy-drivetrain-when-in-big-ring New bike and new to cycling. Should I just not worry or is this worth going to the shop for?
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May 7, 2021 16:25
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bicievino posted:I put grease on everything and have been for thirty years. 
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May 7, 2021 17:19
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Serendipitaet posted:I noticed my drivetrain is a lot louder when it’s in the big ring. The noise seems to come from the rear derailleur. Google searching I’ve found people with similar issues but not really a definitive answer for the cause or resolution. If everything is new and set up, it's not anything to worry about. The noise comes from the particular combination of chain link shape, the angle the chain forms to the cassette when it's on the big ring, and the shape of the cog teeth.
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May 7, 2021 17:40
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kimbo305 posted:If everything is new and set up, it's not anything to worry about. The noise comes from the particular combination of chain link shape, the angle the chain forms to the cassette when it's on the big ring, and the shape of the cog teeth. Cool, thanks a lot for the reassurance and the explanation. 
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May 7, 2021 18:35
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You probably know this already but make sure you aren't crossing your chainline too much, IE being in the big chainring and the big cassette ring.
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May 7, 2021 18:51
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e.pilot posted:I have a bike hand stand that’s really good This one also doubles as an awesome trainer desk if you clamp a small piece of plywood with it because of the cantilever.
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May 8, 2021 15:01
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hemale in pain posted:I got a new bike but the integral derailleur hangar nob (no idea what to call that bit) seems awkwardly small Just doing an update on this. We bought the b bolt kit for the xx1 derailleur. NX - left, XX1 - right  Here's it on the bike. it actually fits!  close up of the old one  in conclusion gently caress you sram for making the cheaper derailleur poo poo and gently caress you surly for not putting more metal on the notch/tang. hemale in pain fucked around with this message at 23:54 on May 10, 2021 |
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May 10, 2021 22:27
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"gently caress SRAM and gently caress Surly". Glad at least some things about the cycling industry are normal during covid times.
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May 11, 2021 03:45
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 is the nx part plastic? surly dropout designs have always been kind of goofy
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May 11, 2021 03:58
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Having ridden a cross check for a decade I can assure you I cried when the Straggler came around and still (sort of) had those fuckin dropouts. With discs!! On to a Black Mountain bike now and I do kinda miss the straight top tube though.
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May 11, 2021 04:07
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Clark Nova posted:
Would have guessed steel, where stamping/ forming it is easier if you use bigger bending radius, hence being out of spec to the outside.
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May 11, 2021 05:18
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It doesn't seem to be magnetic so I'd guess aluminium. It probably would of been fine but I would of never stopped worrying about a dumb failure out in the middle of nowhere.
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May 11, 2021 06:51
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https://imgur.com/ZYqkMtJ One of the calipers on my kid's bike is sticking. How do I fix this? I tried pulling it off and greasing where it mounts to the fork but it didn't improve anything.
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May 12, 2021 18:33
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Can you increase the spring tension on each side in matching force and see if that helps?
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May 12, 2021 19:06
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