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amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

6/7/8 chains are cross compatible. Just make sure you get a chain that is long enough for how many links your current chain is. You’d need to cut the chain down to be the same length as your current chain, presuming it’s the right size.

Buy a chain with a quick link vs. a chain pin. Much easier to live with.

Yes and not sure how much you already know but you'll need a chain tool to shorten the new chain to match your old one, and maybe a set of quick-link pliers to connect the new chain up when the length is set.

You might be able to get away with snapping the quick link in w/o the pliers (set it, and then stand on a pedal while stationary to lock it) but if you ever want to take it off for cleaning or maintenance then definitely get a set of pliers.

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sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Handy visual:

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
There is one trap w 7/8 speed chains. SRAM quicklinks have a 7.1mm pin length while Shimano will be 7.3mm so if you use a SRAM quicklink in a Shimano chain you'll have a stiff link.

KMC sells 2 different 7/8 speed chain types and links for this reason. May as well get one that works with a SRAM quicklink.

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016

Eat a dick unicycle boy!
Champion, thank you all

I got myself a chainbreaker as part of my project bike and am confident using one

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Shimano, why do you use a different preload cap/fixing bolt between GRX 600 and 800 series?? Why???

Crumps Brother
Sep 5, 2007

-G-
Get Equipped with
Ground Game
Edit: ha! I'm an idiot in the wrong thread.

Al2001
Apr 7, 2007

You've gone through at the back

CopperHound posted:

:stonk:
Sounds like some knackered threads to me. Maybe beyond what chasing can fix. Luckily these things exist and any bike shop should be able to order them for you:
https://www.jbi.bike/site/search_usd.php?x1=BOTTOM+BRACKETS&x2=SEALED+CARTRIDGE+REPAIR#BOTTOM+BRACKETS_SEALED+CARTRIDGE+REPAIR

Just returning to this post because I finally bought and fitted one of these (on the recommendation of my local bike co-op as well as CopperHound.) Problem is it always comes loose after a few miles of pedalling. I torque it as hard as I can by hand, and the second time I used blue Loctite as well, but it still came loose. Not sure what my next step should be. Red Loctite?

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Al2001 posted:

I torque it as hard as I can by hand, and the second time I used blue Loctite as well, but it still came loose. Not sure what my next step should be. Red Loctite?
I would say more torque. You might need a person help you hold one bottom bracket tool to keep it from spinning as you tighten the other side.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.
I have a gravel bike and I'm having some issues with tubeless tires. Until recently I was still using tubes, but one of my tires was popping the tube inside it every ride - this happened three rides in a row. I couldn't find anything sharp sticking through the tire and wasn't sure why this kept happening, so I thought I would try setting them up tubeless instead.

I did that and the tire that was good before is just fine, holding air and everything, but the tire that was popping its tubes previously is now doing a slow leak, losing about 20 psi per day. I know sometimes it takes the wheel spinning a bunch to spread the sealant around so it does its job, but I've ridden about 30 miles on it and I thought that would have been enough to spin the sealant and seal up any little holes.

Any thoughts as to what might be going on? My thought is to take it to a shop and ask them to redo the tubeless setup, I don't mind paying a little money, but if it's a larger problem with the tire itself then I'd like to know that before I go in, or at least have the best idea possible how to communicate with them what's going on.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

I finally opened up the one gravel tire tubeless wheel I had, which was also always leaking a bunch, and the answer was that my rim taping job was crappy - it was peeling up in various places.

maybe try re-taping the rim after cleaning it?

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Al2001 posted:

Just returning to this post because I finally bought and fitted one of these (on the recommendation of my local bike co-op as well as CopperHound.) Problem is it always comes loose after a few miles of pedalling. I torque it as hard as I can by hand, and the second time I used blue Loctite as well, but it still came loose. Not sure what my next step should be. Red Loctite?

I've got one of those on my commuter and yeah just a whole bunch of torque with 2 BB tools

eSporks
Jun 10, 2011

gohuskies posted:

I have a gravel bike and I'm having some issues with tubeless tires. Until recently I was still using tubes, but one of my tires was popping the tube inside it every ride - this happened three rides in a row. I couldn't find anything sharp sticking through the tire and wasn't sure why this kept happening, so I thought I would try setting them up tubeless instead.

I did that and the tire that was good before is just fine, holding air and everything, but the tire that was popping its tubes previously is now doing a slow leak, losing about 20 psi per day. I know sometimes it takes the wheel spinning a bunch to spread the sealant around so it does its job, but I've ridden about 30 miles on it and I thought that would have been enough to spin the sealant and seal up any little holes.

Any thoughts as to what might be going on? My thought is to take it to a shop and ask them to redo the tubeless setup, I don't mind paying a little money, but if it's a larger problem with the tire itself then I'd like to know that before I go in, or at least have the best idea possible how to communicate with them what's going on.
1) What pressure were you running tubes at? Were they pinchflats, two holes side by side that look like a snake bite, usually on the inside diameter of the tube? Those are caused by too low of pressure and the tube getting pinched on compression.

2) What PSI are you running? I don't know what's common for gravel.
It could be a whole host of things, but most likely comes down to the tape job or valve stem. Can you see any sealant leaking anywhere? Here anything?
Visual inspection is generally going to be the best bet here.
If it's leaking around the bead, check that your tire isn't defective, or that your tape isn't too thick and preventing bead seat.
If it's coming out of the spoke holes or near the valve, you either have a hole in your tape, or bad seal on your valve.

hemale in pain
Jun 5, 2010




If the tube kept popping and it keeps leaking air when tubeless id assume it's time for a new tyre if its old.

Assuming you've checked the rim tape first! Also for any cracks in the rim, cause that happened to me once :(

hemale in pain fucked around with this message at 11:47 on Jan 6, 2022

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

hemale in pain posted:

If the tube kept popping and it keeps leaking air when tubeless id assume it's time for a new tyre if its old.

When you assume you make an assegai of you and me

Stitecin
Feb 6, 2004
Mayor of Stitecinopolis
I bought a Framed Minnesota 3.0 a few weeks back. The brakes were squealing so I had the rear wheel off and the brake pads out to sand off the glazing. Meanwhile, my son turned the cranks until the derailleur broke. I know X7 is discontinued, but are X7 shifters compatible with a GX derailleur?

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

iirc all sram shifters/derailleurs with the same number of gears are intercompatible

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Clark Nova posted:

iirc all sram shifters/derailleurs with the same number of gears are intercompatible

No, that was only true for 10-speed systems. It was great, but must not have created enough value for shareholders. Some of the lower end stuff for OEM like X7 has weird compatibilities.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
X7 is 10 speed so yeah that's compatible with anything else sram 10s. With 11 and 12, you mostly can't mix mtn and road/cx but anyway yes a 10s x7 shifter will work with a 10s gx derailleur.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Do these quill stem adapters of this particular type simply not have a top cap that interacts with the stem? Just install the adapter and then torque down the stem without any top cap adjustments, since it won’t pull it down?

norp
Jan 20, 2004

TRUMP TRUMP TRUMP

let's invade New Zealand, they have oil
You don't need the downward force if you aren't preloading a bearing!

norp fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Jan 9, 2022

eSporks
Jun 10, 2011

Old weight weenie trick is to remove your top cap after installation.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



It just feels wrong!!

norp
Jan 20, 2004

TRUMP TRUMP TRUMP

let's invade New Zealand, they have oil
Well the step after tightening the stem is to remove and reinstall the top cap with just enough torque to stop it spinning.
It's literally cosmetic at that point

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?
Aargh, I dropped my bike while standing around chatting it up after a group ride today. Drive side down… and I’ve bent the built in derailleur hanger on my steel frame.

Is this something worth even thinking about fixing myself without a hanger alignment tool?

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

wooger posted:

Is this something worth even thinking about fixing myself without a hanger alignment tool?

If you’re asking the question probably not.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

e.pilot posted:

If you’re asking the question probably not.

Well it’d be easy to bend it back sort of true with an adjustable spanner.

Agree though, the existence of specialist tools means it probably matters rather a lot to be precise.

PolishPandaBear
Apr 10, 2009
Is there a bike co-op near you? Last time I bent the hanger on my MTB, I paid for half an hour to use their alignment tool.

Since you said it was steel with an internal hanger, is it an older bike? How many speeds does the rear have, and do you have indexed or friction shifters? With a older 6, 7, 8 speed and friction, you might be able to get away with the adjustable wrench.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

PolishPandaBear posted:

Is there a bike co-op near you? Last time I bent the hanger on my MTB, I paid for half an hour to use their alignment tool.

Since you said it was steel with an internal hanger, is it an older bike? How many speeds does the rear have, and do you have indexed or friction shifters? With a older 6, 7, 8 speed and friction, you might be able to get away with the adjustable wrench.

2018, 105 11 speed. They still make steel bikes because steel is real etc.

No co-ops as far as I know, there are occasional drop in sessions but always when I’m on rides, so I’ll take it to a trusted shop.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



I just bought a hanger alignment tool. It’s not terribly expensive and it’s nice to have.

norp
Jan 20, 2004

TRUMP TRUMP TRUMP

let's invade New Zealand, they have oil
Hanger alignment tool is super useful to have, and given they are basically a bar with a bolt aren't too expensive for bike speciality tools.

I have a bike with a hanger that'll go out of alignment if you look at it funny so it paid for itself pretty fast

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

norp posted:

Hanger alignment tool is super useful to have, and given they are basically a bar with a bolt aren't too expensive for bike speciality tools.

I have a bike with a hanger that'll go out of alignment if you look at it funny so it paid for itself pretty fast

:hmmyes:

even a cheap one works well

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



The amount of times friends have told me their hanger is straight and tool confirms it is not makes it worthwhile. Everyone swears their hanger is fine but it doesn’t take much on 11 or 12 speed systems to get it out of whack.

VideoGameVet
May 14, 2005

It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion. It is by the juice of Java that pedaling acquires speed, the teeth acquire stains, stains become a warning. It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion.

norp posted:

Hanger alignment tool is super useful to have, and given they are basically a bar with a bolt aren't too expensive for bike speciality tools.

I have a bike with a hanger that'll go out of alignment if you look at it funny so it paid for itself pretty fast

I had to buy one after I paid a shop to do an alignment and found out that they flat out lied about having the tool and used an adjustable spanner instead (steel frame).

Worth it.

norp
Jan 20, 2004

TRUMP TRUMP TRUMP

let's invade New Zealand, they have oil
Note that if you can wait a few weeks for shipping a clone of the park tools hanger tool is like $30 on AliExpress

Or if you have a drill and an M10 bolt you can just make one with any straight piece of square tube or similar.

norp
Jan 20, 2004

TRUMP TRUMP TRUMP

let's invade New Zealand, they have oil

VideoGameVet posted:

I had to buy one after I paid a shop to do an alignment and found out that they flat out lied about having the tool

Wtf

Surely shops should be checking hanger adjustment on bikes all the time. I don't know how you would conceivably do the task with a spanner.
I've had my 11sp bike be impossible to dial in shifting with less than 2mm hanger error measured at the rim.

Edit: on a 700c rim 2mm out at the rim is 0.33° - and given you only need to adjust half of that the "spanner" would have to eyeball 0.15°

norp fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Jan 16, 2022

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?
Amazingly I found a bike repair shop (run as a coop, but not a US style bike coop place) near me that fixed the derailleur hanger and re-indexed my gears for £6, which seems like madness.

I know someone that works there part time and they’re all well trained. Good to know for next time.

mexecan
Jul 10, 2006
So this happened earlier. About halfway through a 100km ride my front shifting started acting up: couldn’t get into the big ring.

I figured it was cable stretch and just worked through it.

But just before I got home my left crank popped off. That’s never happened before…

So my ride finished with some 1 legged drills.

Bike is a 2021 Aspero. BBright bottom bracket. Shimano GRX cranks. 2000km on the bike.

I’ve cleaned it up and will put it back together later. Maybe switch out the BB at that time anyways - the OEM ones specced to the Aspero are not good I can can already feel a good amount of grit in the bearings as a result of PNW winter riding.

Likely culprit here is under torque at time of assembly, correct? Or am I missing something?



mexecan fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jan 17, 2022

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Could you post pictures that aren’t tiny?

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

mexecan posted:

So this happened earlier. About halfway through a 100km ride my front shifting started acting up: couldn’t get into the big ring.

I figured it was cable stretch and just worked through it.

But just before I got home my left crank popped off. That’s never happened before…

So my ride finished with some 1 legged drills.

Bike is a 2021 Aspero. BBright bottom bracket. Shimano GRX cranks. 2000km on the bike.

I’ve cleaned it up and will put it back together later. Maybe switch out the BB at that time anyways - the OEM ones specced to the Aspero are not good I can can already feel a good amount of grit in the bearings as a result of PNW winter riding.

Likely culprit here is under torque at time of assembly, correct? Or am I missing something?





Is the drive-side crank pulled out after the fact? If only that much is exposed on the NDS despite the DS being flush with the BB, then something is terribly wrong. But also yes, the usual culprit is not enough torque on the two pinchbolts.

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mexecan
Jul 10, 2006

TobinHatesYou posted:

Is the drive-side crank pulled out after the fact? If only that much is exposed on the NDS despite the DS being flush with the BB, then something is terribly wrong. But also yes, the usual culprit is not enough torque on the two pinchbolts.

Edited for larger pics.

Yes. The DS crank isn’t flush there.

Thanks. I have a torque wrench so will put it back together tomorrow.

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