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Clark Nova posted:I carry a laptop with me so that I can hack my SRAM firmware back into working condition if it shits itself sweats and tugs at collar 
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Jan 10, 2023 00:23
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For reals if it's a killer long ride ya maybe keep a shift cable in the saddle bag. I've also gotten into the habit of carrying a spare hanger on my bikes. I've so far had to use a hanger 3 times. One of them I could have walked home, another time I was on the river about 20km from home in -20c weather and it would have sucked as to walk and trying to find a cab to carry me and a fat bike would have been a pain. Third time was 40km from where I'd parked in the Whiteshell and oh boy that would have been an expensive cab ride. Also in this day and age unless you're riding the half of all bikes still in existence that seem to use Hanger 25 you might be royally screwed if you snap yours and one of the other 700 some odd hangers your bike needs isn't in stock anywhere.
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Jan 10, 2023 01:25
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Keeping a shift cable and a master link in your bag is a no brainer imo. And a multi tool with a built in chain breaker/riveter.
Slavvy fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Jan 10, 2023 |
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Jan 10, 2023 02:18
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I'm going to curse myself right now by saying this: I have never packed a shift cable and I have no intention to start. I have packed spare spokes and tires, but a broken shift cable won't strand me when I can just jam a stick in the parallelogram.
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Jan 10, 2023 03:11
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A bike mechanic friend gave me this wisdom a long time ago: if you replace your cables every couple years they will never break.
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Jan 10, 2023 03:30
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taqueso posted:sweats and tugs at collar 
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Jan 10, 2023 08:23
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taqueso posted:A bike mechanic friend gave me this wisdom a long time ago: if you replace your cables every couple years they will never break. My first 11speed cable failure happened less than a year into ownership. Imo 2-3000 miles is a pretty safe rear cable replacement schedule. Now I just ride that bike less so 2-3k is a couple of years.
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Jan 10, 2023 18:35
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I'm still a newbie to bike maintenance and every video I watch is using a lot more vocabulary than I'm familiar with so maybe I can ask here to narrow my search. My road bike's front derailleur shifts to the larger chainring just fine but rarely lets me shift to the smaller one while riding. When lifted into a stand sometimes it will shift fine, sometime you have to hit the shifter twice, but it always shifts. Is that a common problem? Derailleur seems centered. Could the cable just have less tension while I'm riding it somehow?
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Jan 10, 2023 19:12
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Cable tension is how the derailleur gets to the big ring, so if it's not going to the little ring you could actually have too much. Or, the low limit screw, which physically stops the derailleur from going too far and dropping the chain off the inside of the cranks is set too close. Or, if the cable and housing is old, the friction in it is stopping the derailleur from returning smoothly.
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Jan 10, 2023 19:21
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davebo posted:I'm still a newbie to bike maintenance and every video I watch is using a lot more vocabulary than I'm familiar with so maybe I can ask here to narrow my search. My road bike's front derailleur shifts to the larger chainring just fine but rarely lets me shift to the smaller one while riding. When lifted into a stand sometimes it will shift fine, sometime you have to hit the shifter twice, but it always shifts. Is that a common problem? Derailleur seems centered. Could the cable just have less tension while I'm riding it somehow? What kind of shifters do you have? Some shifters have one or two in-between trim spots in their shifting that are only meant to adjust the FD to prevent chain rub, not fully shift. The clicks will go: shift - trim - trim - shift. Sorry if you know what trim adjustments are, but if you don't, it can seem like the shifter isn't shifting on every click. The park tools video on adjusting derailleurs is really good, watch that and look up the words you don't know. The FD is 90% about getting your cable tension just right. Some setups can be very finicky, it takes me a bunch of tries to get it correct. Not shifting from the big ring to the small means the slack being put into the cable isn't enough to allow the FD to push the chain all the way down. So the cable is too tight, or it's binding somewhere. Shifting correctly sometimes means it's probably not the L screw, but check and set that along with the rest of the instructions in the park tools video.
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Jan 11, 2023 08:18
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Does anyone know what bike stand this is?  Looks to cradle the bottom bracket and then clamp on the downtube.  It's from the latest RJ The Bike Guy video, https://youtu.be/4WJ7t9-e0Zk There's nothing in the youtube comments and on Facebook he says it's a Specialized? I'm assuming it's old, but am really interested to see the whole thing.
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Jan 11, 2023 16:54
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e.pilot posted:lol imagine not being able to ride your bike because the shift cable broke in the lever e.pilot posted:my single anecdotal experience of mech shifting is just as useless as one person having issues with electronic shifting and going HURRR DURRR THIS IS WHY I STICK WITH MECHANICAL I AM VERY SMART, both have their pros and cons
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Jan 17, 2023 12:54
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It’s not like the bike is completely unusable. Just doesn’t shift up front. It didn’t leave me stranded or anything like that. Sounds like an unlucky, rare occurrence. I haven’t found much in the way of similar reports online. SRAM support thinks the firmware memory must have been corrupted and it’ll need to be warrantied 
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Jan 17, 2023 21:48
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Are different Shimano shifters of the same vintage (5700/6700/whatever the dura-ace equivalent is) going to be the same shape, or at least similar enough to mix on the same bike?
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Jan 20, 2023 22:29
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I've been using drip wax since I started road cycling for exercise, but now I would like to start immersive waxing with four chains on rotation. I would also like to swap out my short cage R6800 rear derailleur for an R8000 with a longer cage, so I can swap out my 11-28 cassette for an 11-32 one. The thing is, I have two fairly new and well-maintained 11-28 cassettes, one on the bike itself and one on the turbo. If I buy the four chains and size them to work with an 11-32 cassette, can I keep using the 28-tooth cassettes on the turbo with the same chains? Or do I need to keep a dedicated chain for the 11-28 cassette and swap chains every time I install the bike on the turbo? e: I tend to stick to ERG mode on the trainer, so a full range of shifting wouldn't be necessary. I'd just keep it in the 14 or 15-tooth cog Lex Neville fucked around with this message at 13:09 on Jan 23, 2023 |
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Jan 23, 2023 13:04
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Bike chain length calculator puts it at 106 Vs 108 links (measured pin to pin I think, not inner +outer, I assumed 420mm chain stay length and 50 front tooth), so one "complete" link. I think it should work fine if your current chain is the optimal length, especially if you're just using it on the trainer.
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Jan 23, 2023 14:31
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Lex Neville posted:I've been using drip wax since I started road cycling for exercise, but now I would like to start immersive waxing with four chains on rotation. I would also like to swap out my short cage R6800 rear derailleur for an R8000 with a longer cage, so I can swap out my 11-28 cassette for an 11-32 one. The thing is, I have two fairly new and well-maintained 11-28 cassettes, one on the bike itself and one on the turbo. If I buy the four chains and size them to work with an 11-32 cassette, can I keep using the 28-tooth cassettes on the turbo with the same chains? Or do I need to keep a dedicated chain for the 11-28 cassette and swap chains every time I install the bike on the turbo? Will be fine, might want to adjust B screw a bit if using outside, otherwise no problem for erg mode. I do the same on my trainer bike with the same gs-rd8000 11 speed Ultegra medium cage derailleur.
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Jan 23, 2023 14:49
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Thank you both!Heliosicle posted:Bike chain length calculator puts it at 106 Vs 108 links (measured pin to pin I think, not inner +outer, I assumed 420mm chain stay length and 50 front tooth), so one "complete" link. I think it should work fine if your current chain is the optimal length, especially if you're just using it on the trainer. For what it's worth, I have a 52/36 at the front (hence the change; 36/28 was fine for the 150 km AGR and probably would be for the 240 km too, but as I'm going solo I figured I'd play it safe and get a few easier gears). I'll measure the new chains and break at appropriate 52/32 length + 2 rivets, but I feared the new, longer chains might actually be too long for the 11/28 turbo setup. I'm not sure why it would cause a problem, but it's good to know that it won't before I spend a lot of money.
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Jan 23, 2023 16:07
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I swap between 30 and 36 tooth cassettes without changing the chain, just adjusting the b-screw. (On an ultegra 11spd RX derailleur).
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Jan 23, 2023 22:11
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I've been using wax lube and the chain still gets filthy after one day at a trail. Am I using too much or is that still normal? It's that dry lube white lightning makes.
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Jan 24, 2023 00:06
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Lex Neville posted:I've been using drip wax since I started road cycling for exercise, but now I would like to start immersive waxing with four chains on rotation. I would also like to swap out my short cage R6800 rear derailleur for an R8000 with a longer cage, so I can swap out my 11-28 cassette for an 11-32 one. The thing is, I have two fairly new and well-maintained 11-28 cassettes, one on the bike itself and one on the turbo. If I buy the four chains and size them to work with an 11-32 cassette, can I keep using the 28-tooth cassettes on the turbo with the same chains? Or do I need to keep a dedicated chain for the 11-28 cassette and swap chains every time I install the bike on the turbo? I used 4 chains in a rotation and found the chains outlived every other drivetrain component by... a lot. I think 3 chains is the sweetspot unless you want to do 3 training chains and 1 race chain, which would be pretty keen too. If you size your chain via the small-small method with a long-cage R8000 RD, that means you are maxing out the capacity of that RD no matter what size cassette you use. The small-small method = run your chain through the RD in small-small, and shorten the chain to the point where cage is barely under tension. You want maybe 1 inch between the chain's return path and the point where it wraps around the upper pulley. And yes it's 1 inch of chain (2 links) per 4t.
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Jan 24, 2023 00:19
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brand engager posted:I've been using wax lube and the chain still gets filthy after one day at a trail. Am I using too much or is that still normal? It's that dry lube white lightning makes. Are you wiping off the excess? No matter what lube you're using on your chain you should finish by wiping as much off as you can with a rag.
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Jan 24, 2023 05:18
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I think I did, i'll make sure next time though
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Jan 24, 2023 05:37
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brand engager posted:I've been using wax lube and the chain still gets filthy after one day at a trail. Am I using too much or is that still normal? It's that dry lube white lightning makes. Immersion wax lube isn’t the same thing at all as the various drip products or any dry lube. It works much better, lasts much longer.
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Jan 24, 2023 08:01
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brand engager posted:I think I did, i'll make sure next time though One drop per roller unless it’s the first application ever. With CeramicSpeed UFO Drip, I don’t wipe off the excess. Any excess flakes off as a fine powder. With gummier wax lubes like Squirt or Smoove, it’s recommended to wipe away the excess. UFO Drip and Silca Super Secret are pretty much 95% as good as molten wax. They’re so good I’m considering switching back from hot waxing to just using UFO Drip.
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Jan 24, 2023 09:02
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How's super secret in the wet? I'm on a gates belt but my spouse still rides a chain and I hate how much maintenance that poo poo is in comparison.
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Jan 24, 2023 12:56
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I was just reading this review of ufo drip and remembered why it's not really a thing round here https://road.cc/content/review/ceramicspeed-ufo-drip-new-formula-280971  Yeah
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Jan 24, 2023 14:21
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evil_bunnY posted:How's super secret in the wet? I'm on a gates belt but my spouse still rides a chain and I hate how much maintenance that poo poo is in comparison. In severely wet conditions, I reapply it daily. But it stays amazingly clean!
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Jan 24, 2023 15:11
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Staying on topic: do any of you wax multiple chains in the bag silca provide (or au bain marie in general)? How much more convenient is a slow cooker exactly? After buying secret chain blend, super secret drip, 3 chains, a new cassette, a new rear derailleur and a set of reusable quick links, saving some money wouldn't hurt.
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Jan 24, 2023 15:20
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bicievino posted:In severely wet conditions, I reapply it daily. But if it fails in 100km, and I’m riding 200km, this doesn’t help. I thought it needed a long time to dry too? Lex Neville posted:Staying on topic: do any of you wax multiple chains in the bag silca provide (or au bain marie in general)? How much more convenient is a slow cooker exactly? After buying secret chain blend, super secret drip, 3 chains, a new cassette, a new rear derailleur and a set of reusable quick links, saving some money wouldn't hurt. Advantages of a slow cooker: - Don’t have to watch it to keep a constant temperature for many hours, just torn on and wait. - Can plug in in a garage or wherever is convenient, not limited to a stovetop in your kitchen. And leave the wax in there with the lid down for storage. - They really don’t cost much at all anyway, and you’ll likely poo poo up a pan with wax by accident anyway. Don’t forget to buy the various solvents required to strip the factory grease from those chains too, plus containers to do it in wooger fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jan 24, 2023 |
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Jan 24, 2023 18:15
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Thanks! Yeah I already have the solvents and containers I need I don't understand what you mean by many hours though. You melt the wax, dunk in the chain(s), wait for the wax to start solidifying again and take them out, no?
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Jan 24, 2023 18:23
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Lex Neville posted:I don't understand what you mean by many hours though. You melt the wax, dunk in the chain(s), wait for the wax to start solidifying again and take them out, no? I mean the UFO drip wax, it quotes 8 hours.
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Jan 24, 2023 18:44
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Skarsnik posted:I was just reading this review of ufo drip and remembered why it's not really a thing round here I did over 160km with Silca Super Secret and it didn’t make any noise. UFO Drip doesn’t last as long as Silca in dry conditions and does act differently…it is a lot drier itself. I have not tried it in very wet conditions. I did about 110km on Flower Power in the aftermath of a storm with wet roads and it started squealing. I doubt wooger has done wet rides or used all three of these lubes. He’s likely operating on his own prior experience with something like Squirt. And yes they do take time to set/cure after application, but so does everything else besides oil-based lubes. I just wipe my chain down and reapply after rides since I do this weird thing called sleeping every night.
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Jan 24, 2023 18:51
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wooger posted:I mean the UFO drip wax, it quotes 8 hours. that's just how long the drip wax takes to dry though, I assume? no constant temperature or watching required
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Jan 24, 2023 18:51
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TobinHatesYou posted:I did over 160km with Silca Super Secret and it didn’t make any noise. UFO Drip doesn’t last as long as Silca in dry conditions and does act differently…it is a lot drier itself. I have not tried it in very wet conditions. Whilst I do appreciate you've apparently been lucky enough to try every chain, lube and bike part in existence, you don't ride in the British winter ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Jan 24, 2023 21:18
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TobinHatesYou posted:I did over 160km with Silca Super Secret and it didn’t make any noise. UFO Drip doesn’t last as long as Silca in dry conditions and does act differently…it is a lot drier itself. I have not tried it in very wet conditions. Never said I’d used all (three?) of the lubes being discussed, just read the ZFC review of UFO though. I use immersion waxed chains on my good bike, they last hundreds of miles, not worth it in the British winter though. The deal is to just not care that much, run a cheaper bike and put up with imperfectly clean & smooth drivetrain. An oil lube (Silca Synergetic for now) at least stops the rust. I’ve ridden through flooded roads deeper than my BB three times in the last 2 weeks, there is not enough time or dry weather or daylight to keep things nice.
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Jan 24, 2023 22:41
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I ride in British weather (okay, it's Seattle weather, but pretty dang similar). Honestly: I won't do 200km in nonstop serious rain, it's just too miserable. I've done 200km in constant drizzle or intermittent real rain, and a waxed chain was fine for that. It needed to be thoroughly cleaned afterwards, but all that entailed was shaking it in a bottle of boiling water. For shorter rides, I've used the silca super secret up to about 150km in rainy conditions (some drizzle, constant wet roads, but not a deluge) and its been okay. If I don't dry it off promptly when I get inside it will rust tho. Edit: I've assumed we're talking about distances in a single ride. If we're talking multiple days: I reapply the dripon silca wax daily if thoroughly deluged regardless of distance (assuming like 2hrs min). Otherwise I can go three days before reapplying. bicievino fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Jan 24, 2023 |
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Jan 24, 2023 23:08
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bicievino posted:In severely wet conditions, I reapply it daily.
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Jan 24, 2023 23:43
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I'm surprised nobody has developed some kind of automatic chain oiler device like a scottoiler on motorbikes
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Jan 25, 2023 00:37
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Slavvy posted:I'm surprised nobody has developed some kind of automatic chain oiler device like a scottoiler on motorbikes I think the mechanical stresses on a mtb chain are so low (relatively) that it wouldn't be worth it.
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Jan 25, 2023 00:43
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