Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread: friction in the front, index the rear

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > The Great Outdoors > Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread: friction in the front, index the rear

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SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

FogHelmut posted:

Is Gorilla tape legitimately as good/better than special tubeless rim tape? Or is it one of those "just pay for the special tape." It's not the price - I have a bunch of Gorilla tape lying around already and I don't want to wait for special tape. But the Gorilla tape has really thick adhesive, is that not going to be a mess?

It'll make a gigantic mess and be a pain in the rear end to change later. It works at sealing just fine though

# ¿ Aug 21, 2020 21:43

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 11:34

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Ciaphas posted:

It took an hour and a lot of swearing but I got my (mechanical) disc brakes all dialed in the other day. It's nice to be able to stop on command again

Anyone else in here with discs, how often do you end up loving around with those things because they loosened/got squeaky/whatever else?

I got fed up and went back to cantilevers

# ¿ Aug 27, 2020 19:39

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

ExecuDork posted:

Almost related: my left-side crank bolt keeps getting loose. I have to tighten it every day or my left pedal arm gets wobbly. Even loose, it's inside the crank arm, while the other side sticks out a few millimetres. Other than just tightening this thing daily until I get around to replacing one/all of the chainrings, is there something I can do to keep my bike from falling apart?

I'm assuming this is a square-taper crank. You need to replace the left arm, the taper is hosed and can't be repaired. A LBS that does a lot of repairs on old bikes should have replacements on hand.

# ¿ Nov 5, 2020 04:24

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Al2001 posted:

Just replacing my bottom bracket and I realised it's about 2mm too wide for the shell. Then I remembered the last time I did this at the bike co-op, I had the same problem, but although there was a 2mm gap on the non drive side, the drive side was in far enough that it basically was ok (no play, although there's some light rust, so I suppose some water got in!)

This is all a little confusing given I thought 68mm has been the smallest standard width for several decades (the bike is my 1997 Dawes Galaxy.)

What's my next move, dudes?!

Sounds like the width of a bottom bracket-mounted chainguard. Weird that the bike is like that though. You can add a spacer to the NDS to make up the 2mm.

# ¿ Nov 27, 2020 17:39

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

DevCore posted:

Is there a front rack that’s a similar design as the pass and stow rack?
I really don’t feel like dropping $280 for a handmade front rack.

https://www.passandstowracks.com/

That's about the going price for a tubular CrMo rack, even made in Taiwan isn't much cheaper. The Blackburn Bootlegger has a similar form factor for a third the price, it's just aluminium instead and less fancy.

# ¿ Dec 14, 2020 04:29

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Mauser posted:

I am not really planning to do any of these any time soon, but I got two long-term possible upgrades on my road bike.

1) If I were to replace the mechanical disc brakes on my 2x9 with hydraulic, would 10 or 11 speed shifter/brakes work with the limit screws adjusted properly or would I also need to replace the cassette for them to be compatible? I was also thinking about just replacing the front brake with hydraulic, which would avoid this whole dilemma

2) what are the considerations for replacing the front fork with a carbon replacement? I want to maintain the same disposition of the handlebars, but not sure what goes into this

Yeah get good mechs and nice housing, it makes a world of difference.

Your fork needs to have the same steerer size to fit your frame and headset, and needs to have the same axle-to-crown so that steering doesn't get weird. It also needs the same dropouts and width you currently have.

Also don't get a carbon fork please, I don't like dead cyclists.

# ¿ Jan 9, 2021 00:26

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Dren posted:

I ordered the kalloy uno which should answer the setback question for not too much money. Thank you Clark Nova for the rec, it is like $1 more than the chinese knockoff thing at the top of amazon but doesn’t have a bunch of reviews saying it snapped in half like that one does.

If I ever want to get a nicer one my options seem limited. Most stuff I poked at doesn’t come in 25.4. My current post is 400mm and I think I only need 350mm, so that is another concern.

They don't make nice bikes with 25.4 internal seat tube size any more, so seatpost choice is gonna be cheap stuff for cheap bikes and repairs to older ones. The VO is the nicest you'll find new. Don't worry about finding a post that's too long, you can saw off the extra length.

# ¿ Jan 21, 2021 19:56

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Clark Nova posted:

I didn't mention it but I'm pretty sure kalloy is, or is a brand/subsidiary of, the company that makes the seatposts and stems for all the bikes that come out of Taiwan. They're also an easy answer for "which threadless stem should I get?"

There's a lot of firms making those kinds of parts but only so many forges. Kalloy are huge and make white-label parts all the time, at any quality level you're willing to pay for. The VO Dajia seatpost is one of their nicer models.

# ¿ Jan 21, 2021 21:32

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Dren posted:

This is the only nice one I found, https://www.amazon.com/Zipp-Service-Seatpost-Setback-Diameter/dp/B07GGPLCY9/

Would there be any problem running a CF seatpost in an AL frame?

I wouldn't buy carbon on Amazon because you don't know what you're getting, especially with that 3-review listing, and broken carbon between your legs tends to be upsetting.

# ¿ Jan 21, 2021 21:33

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Safety Dance posted:

Dumb question: I've got a Shimano Nexus 8-speed internally geared hub. I don't really love the revoshift twisty shifter it came with. Could I replace with an 8 speed (for lack of a better term) clicky lever thumb shifter?

Yes, Shimano make those for Nexus and Alfine hubs. There are also third-party bar-end shifters and such.

# ¿ Jan 29, 2021 03:00

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Stitecin posted:

Where can I buy a new one of these? Preferably for less than $339 + $15 shipping I saw on ebay. The clamp on seems to be way cheaper, can they be converted?

Did the rivets holding the braze-on come off? Cause those don't come with the derailer and getting a new one won't particularly help with your problem.

You can use mostly any front derailer for road doubles though, it might just not be as perfect with your shifters if you go cheap or with another brand.

# ¿ Mar 31, 2021 05:16

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Y'all are talking like people who've never had to remove seized bolts from a bike someone sweat on. Please grease stem bolts.

# ¿ May 6, 2021 17:44

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

No, it's kind of threaded on both sides. They hold really strongly.
http://www.repairengineering.com/helicoil.html

# ¿ May 17, 2021 14:28

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

EvilJoven posted:

"I need a bike tire for an old antique 26" bike." "Oh boy here we go"

Ever get a really old CCM in the shop that takes 650C tires except really big? And are also just called 26"? What fun.

# ¿ May 28, 2021 01:11

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

highme posted:

Aren’t rotors on the list of hard to acquire parts these days?

There isn't enough steel to make certain bike parts this year. It's been weird.

# ¿ Jun 10, 2021 13:22

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Jonny Quest posted:

While investigating a squeaking noise on my front wheel I took a glance at my chain ring and to my eyes it looks like its not long for this world, right?

Now if only I could find a 48T replacement in stock somewhere.

That chainring looks practically new

# ¿ Jun 15, 2021 16:22

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

If you change your chain and not that old cassette, it'll skip under load, you need to do both at the same time.

# ¿ Jun 22, 2021 15:59

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

VideoGameVet posted:

Not if you have been changing your chain before it wears down too much. I've got over 10,000 miles on the cassette and chainrings and have gone thru 3 sets of chains.

I use the Park tool and change the chain as soon as possible when it gets to 0.5" on the indicator.

Sure but that cassette doesn't look fresh and you change and clean your chains more that anyone else here

# ¿ Jun 22, 2021 16:33

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Cuntpunch posted:

I get the brush part, it's the teeth-that-don't-fit-anything that I don't quite understand.

Scrapes off the nice black caulking made of grease, sand and iron that builds up between the cogs.

# ¿ Jun 25, 2021 20:59

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

kimbo305 posted:

Thoughts on facing BB shell and head tube on a new frame?
It's BSA threaded BB, so I figure there might be a slight width error, but the alignment is out of my hands. But the HT?

Depends on which factory it's from (and batch sometimes), but modern frames usually have that done pretty well by the builder and the only thing that might cause trouble is the paint overspray.

Steels and production processes are way better now than in the 80s, you don't really see anything that badly needs reaming or facing.

# ¿ Jul 5, 2021 02:58

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Jesus gently caress I hate disc brakes so much. Bike shops shouldn't have to bring in machinists for routine frame prep.

# ¿ Jul 5, 2021 15:58

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Of course, it's just incredibly silly to add something more when it could so easily be avoided.

# ¿ Jul 5, 2021 17:05

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Dren posted:

I installed new pedals and I may have crossthreaded one. It was a touch difficult to screw in whereas the other one went in easy, barely any force at all till the end. I was able to torque the one I suspect I crossthreaded to spec. What, if any, bad things should I expect to happen if I crossthreaded my pedal?

It falls out and you change that arm

# ¿ Jul 8, 2021 02:31

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

You can't reuse pins in chains above 9sp, don't try cause it'll end in tears.

# ¿ Aug 5, 2021 13:01

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

EvilJoven posted:

Anyone know where to find max tension specs for sun ringle rims? I'm p sure this seemingly machine built wheel at 148kgf drive side is why it keeps shattering nipples.

Jesus Christ.

Never seen any specs on that from Sun, but I think we top our eyeletted CR18s at about 135kgf.

Did you guys get it from Damco? I've had machine made wheels from them taco themselves from the huge tensions.

# ¿ Aug 20, 2021 19:49

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Angryhead posted:

Nah, it wasn't that. At least I had proper motivation to finally remove it!

I figure I should try re-greasing and attaching the cassette again tomorrow, maybe I messed something up with that.

What part of your cassette are you greasing? They usually go on dry, except sometimes the lockring if you're feeling deluxe

# ¿ Aug 20, 2021 20:02

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

EvilJoven posted:

No idea where it came from. It's a higher end TA tubeless MTB wheel a customer brought it in after a few spoke nipples grenaded. I started working on the wheel noticed just how tight everything is and when I put the tension meter on it I took a step back.

I ended up de tensioning the wheel and readjusting everything. Another nipple exploded while I was doing it. I shouldn't have to wear safety googles at the bloody truing stand.

Ugh, miserable work. It's quicker to build a new wheel than do that.

# ¿ Aug 21, 2021 00:11

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Salt Fish posted:

Jobst Brandt says: "Tensioning spokes can be dangerous. A spoke can rupture under tension and shoot from the rim, like an arrow from a crossbow, into your eye. "

Spokes don't really do that anymore, the nipple nearly always breaks first if you're working on a wheel in the truing stand.

God help you with old spokes from before stainless steel though.

# ¿ Aug 21, 2021 00:12

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

EvilJoven posted:

Wheels that old usually go straight into the bin, not the truing stand. We don't normally see higher end vintage bikes and anything but top shelf stuff from that far back is going to be much worse than a $50 single wall aluminum wheel, so why bother?

We did get one set of wooden wheels come through the shop for truing years ago when I was still new at all this. They were going on a bike over a hundred years old. I was told that under no circumstances was I to approach those wheels with tools in hand, they were for our primary wheel builder only.

We built up a restoration bike from 1896 for a guy and made him wooden-rim wheels. Cool frame with rear suspension, and I was also given the same instructions as you.

# ¿ Aug 21, 2021 02:15

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Get a steel body, only way to prevent it. Even then, it'll get chewed if you ride in lovely enough weather.

# ¿ Aug 25, 2021 21:14

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

It's torx for no good reason lol

# ¿ Aug 30, 2021 22:58

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Bought some Keo Blades and these fuckers require a T8 bit to swap out the blades, I love working on bikes

T8 as a concept makes me laugh at the thought of going to the hardware store for a driver.

# ¿ Aug 31, 2021 22:48

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Salt Fish posted:

I got my old schwinn le tour III from my parents house and I'm thinking about fixing it up. I rode this bike 10,000+ miles a year for like 5-7 years or something so it has sentimental value. I think its so cool to have it in my garage again after a decade without it. A friend's mom was the original owner and its actually in very good condition for how much its been though.

The frame and its missing some paint . There is a tiny amount of surface rust in some small patches, especially on the chain stay, but nothing too bad. I briefly though about getting it powder coated and then I found replica stickers, but the more I think about it I'm leaning towards just touch up paint that's close enough and then spraying the whole thing with clear coat. Any ideas? I'm not sure how careful I'd have to be with spay can clear coat or what pitfalls I might run into, what surface prep I might need or what products could work well.

Maybe I could do touch up paint and just skip clear coat? Are there products that would hold up and not flake off? What about just clear coat stickers? Might look pretty dumb if I do it wrong.

Nail polish. It also happens to come in a super wide variety of shades.

# ¿ Oct 10, 2021 23:13

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Jazz Marimba posted:

i'm considering getting schwalbe marathon tires cuz i'm sick of getting flats, but they have 35 different models on their site...obvi i can skip the e-bike ones, but does anyone have any recs for the other, idk, 31 models?

The e-bike ones aren't exclusively for e-bikes, it just means Schwalbe went out and got themselves a rating for that tire. A lot of tire models remain identical from one year to the next except for a new "e25 rated" decal.

# ¿ Oct 18, 2021 23:13

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

El Laucha posted:

my lbs sanded it a bit

What the gently caress?

# ¿ Nov 14, 2021 17:22

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Salt Fish posted:

I assume this is a total loss for this wheel? It's off a 70s schwinn le tour III front wheel, is it possible to find a replacement cone that would fit? The hub shell races have some discoloration but are functional I think.

It's not particularly dangerous to ride on this, mind you, but it'll be hard to find a replacement without cannibalizing another wheel of the same make and vintage.

# ¿ Nov 16, 2021 00:41

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Please don't paint your brake calipers. If you want them to be silver, you need to remove the current paint and polish the bare metal.

# ¿ Dec 14, 2021 17:52

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Safety Dance posted:

I dropped my bike in my apartment hallway this morning and snapped the tip off of my Magura HS22 front brake lever.

Is the best solution going to be replacing the whole lever assembly, or can I find a replacement lever by itself? If I have to replace the whole assembly, what's a good vendor for it, and what is a good brake bleeding kit?

Magura stuff is... Special. My first thought would be to write Magura or check their manuals to see if there are individual repair parts listed. You'll need a Magura-specific bleed kit too.

# ¿ Dec 20, 2021 17:22

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Mauser posted:

Thinking about buying a cheap old bike on vacation. €30 for this:

Does that fork look messed up to anyone else or is it just the angle?

That thing 100% had a super nasty head-on collision with something immovable.

# ¿ Dec 24, 2021 02:34

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 11:34

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Clark Nova posted:

iirc all sram shifters/derailleurs with the same number of gears are intercompatible

No, that was only true for 10-speed systems. It was great, but must not have created enough value for shareholders. Some of the lower end stuff for OEM like X7 has weird compatibilities.

# ¿ Jan 8, 2022 16:33

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > The Great Outdoors > Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread: friction in the front, index the rear

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