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I bought a Shimano 11 speed chain, the Deore/Ultegra level one. It came with a master link. Can I use one of the 11 speed connector pins instead on this chain? From my Google results, it looks like you can, but I just want to be sure. I don't want to be stranded in the middle of the wilderness over this. Pre-edit. I am skipping out on the master link if possible because they seems to die on my gravel bike when in the lowest gear combo.
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Sep 10, 2020 21:13
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| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 19:31 |
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I had a warranty frame replaced a few weeks ago and the shop that did the work was garbage. Keep in mind it was a rebuild with current generation DA that only had about 50 rides on it. Here is the final tally Rotors rubbing the brake pads, both front and rear. Front derail, completely out of adjustment and not aligned with the rings Rear derail, out of adjustment, still does not work well. Won't shift into larger cogs easily, gets hung up in between gears. I am assuming a piece of internal cable housing is not seated against the stops. Please set my seat at exactly 31". Nope, it was set at 31.5", and I had to cut the mast myself. Air in the brake lines, enough that I could hear the fluid sloshing around when I pulled the brake levers. None of the bolts were torqued to spec. And my favorite, the left crank arm just sort of hanging free on the spindle, Other than that, great job guys.
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Sep 18, 2020 16:33
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Modal Auxiliary posted:Name and shame please! What was their excuse? I did not call, but wrote the owner an email. He is yet to respond. I'll call in a few days if he does not get back to me. In any case, I won't take it back in as I cleared it all up myself, and it is a 90 minute round trip to the shop even in the best of conditions. I knew this was going to be a problem within minutes of seeing the bike. There were test ride pedals on it, and I asked the guy handing me my bike if he wanted his pedals. He went back for a pedal wrench, and as he was removing them, I could see from 10ft away that the left arm was loose. He pulled the pedal off, I walked over and wiggled the crank arm just to be sure. I just blurted out something along the the lines of "Man, what the hell? I could see this when I was standing over there and you are just going to let me roll out of here like that?" My wife just looked and me and said "that would have been expensive and dangerous, yes?" gently caress yeah it would have been. Anyway, I have found several more issues over the last few days. Not going to name and shame though. They have done good work on other things, so I'll just try and get to the bottom of this with the owner.
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Sep 20, 2020 00:04
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Clark Nova posted:"go to your local bike shop for service" says the OEM, when your local bike shop is forty five minutes away and cannot affix a crank arm to its spindle Local bike shop, heh. Sort of related to my lovely build saga. One of the items I needed to do was cut the seat mast. The shop in town was booked up because COVID, could not spare the time to do a cut. And since I try to shop local whenever possible, I asked them to get me a Park SG7.2 saw guide. The price they quoted was the same as any mail order, and I was not in a hurry. As it was Saturday, they said it would be in by Monday. Tuesday I go in to buy a chain, and ask about my saw guide. Nope not it, give us another day. Sunday rolls around and I call ahead before going in. Uh, all of our suppliers are out man, we don't know when we can get one. Thanks for at least letting me know, you had my phone number and could have called. Dipshits. 1 minute later, my online order to Jenson USA is done. Free shipping and the tool is here the next day.
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Sep 20, 2020 04:47
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What is a good set of USA (or Japanese, Italian, German) made Allen wrenches that also includes a 12mm? After years of using random Chinese made garbage that round out and wreck my bolt heads, I think it is time to get something of quality. All of the sets I am looking at top out a 10mm. I know I could buy a 12 separately, but I would like a set with a holder because I am a horrible person and lose tools if they are left as individual pieces.
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Oct 7, 2020 20:27
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A few weeks ago I posted in here about folding my small chainring on a Praxis Zayante crankset. Low RMP, high power, fat rider, steep hill. Praxis was very good about it and sent me a replacement overnight. Anyway, even before that I had been chasing a really load cracking noise that occurred in the same point of my pedal stroke when under hard effort. It was a single loud noise, and because of the carbon frame it sounded like it was coming from everywhere. Cleaned out the headset. Nope. Cleaned out the BB. Nope. Seatpost, bar, step. No. The two pieces of the rear axle had come loose, and that did get rid of a different clicking noise, so that was good. But the loud one remained. After loving around for another hour this afternoon, I put the bike back on the stand and just stared at the crankset. I put the crank to the position where it would make the noise. That is when I saw it. There was a loving hairline crack through the spider, the spider that was pointing in the up position, just starting to take the load from the chain. It makes sense that the inner ring that I wrecked was bent at the bolt position. I always that that was a bit odd to bend there. Turns out it makes sense that it would fail there. It was the longest point along the ring between the remaining spiders on either side of the cracked one. Upon removal and cleaning, I fond a smaller crack in one of the other arms too. I'm sure they will warranty it, but I don't know about keeping it. I have probably only 30 rides on the bike since I got it in February, so this does not give me a lot of confidence. I may just swap it for a GRX. Cat Ass Trophy fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 04:01
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Cat rear end Trophy posted:
That was quick. The new part is already in the mail. I think they included some new chainrings too. And a T-shirt.
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Oct 16, 2020 17:42
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Fuuuuuucckkkk! So the cracked spider was not the sources of the noise in my pedal stroke. I put the new one on, cleaned everything in the BB and crankset and put it all back together. Total silence. Well, for the first hour of the ride. Then the small tick kicked in, and but the end of the ride it was back to the loud crack noise that happens in the same place on every pedal stroke. It makes me hate riding the gravel bike. So, I'm ripping the whole loving Praxis POS crankset and BB out, and putting in a thread together Wheels Mfg. BB and a GRX crankset. I'd get a Hambini BB86 1 piece, but those are $$$ and he is a huge rear end in a top hat. That being said, keep your eyes peeled for a cheap Praxis crankset on ebay.
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Nov 3, 2020 19:29
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EvilJoven posted:If the rings and freewheel are so old they no longer interface with a new chain it could definitely be necessary to change everything. Of the 3 wear parts of a drivetrain, the chain wears out fastest. Usually cassette is second, chainrings will last the longest. At least for me. But a lot of people new to bikes don't replace the chain when it is required, not do they do regular preventative maintenance. And that in turn leads to excess wear on the cassette and chainrings. So but the time the chain needs replacing because of failure, other parts of the drivetrain have been ground to dust. I sometimes do maintenance for my fellow cycling friends and I am amazed by their lack of care. And the stuff they use is expensive. Chain, cassette and cogs can easily go for over $500. Just a few minutes a week of wiping down your chain will keep your drivetrain going for much longer. One of the great things about a $500 bike is the face that it is $500. But if you try to replace just a few of the major parts, you can easily spend half the cost of the bike. Case in point, replacing the drivetrain. I'll second EJ here, unless you really like the bike, part it out, sell or store the remaining good parts, and enjoy your new bike.
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Nov 9, 2020 19:04
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Figure it out? Good guess. I had checked it early in the process and it was not it. I am running egg beaters, and I did have a bearing go bad on the ones I used on my trainer bike. I had put a pair of Ultegra 3 bolts on the gravel bike, and unfortunately still had the noise. Thanks though.
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Nov 10, 2020 06:14
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EvilJoven posted:I don't care if I have to screw it in with a wrench, press it in with a bearing press, or hammer it in with my face, I just want us to go back to one loving BB standard. Swiss it is!
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Dec 16, 2020 17:33
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eSporks posted:Newer shimano FD has a built in tension adjuster too. No kidding. The first time I worked on one of the current gen front derails, I was thinking that my entire wish list had been granted. It is pretty much a 5 step process, but after a few times it becomes second nature.
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Dec 23, 2020 05:54
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Skarsnik posted:New shimano stuff has fixed this fwiw. Its really simple getting enough tension, you don't need an inline adjuster and its even got marks to line up to set it. Exactly. This is the front derail that I have been wishing for for the past 30 years. The only problem is that I now have old people eyes and can't see all of the tiny little adjustment items. The new cable for my front shifter has stretched a bit and even though it is an easy process, I am not looking forward to resetting the derail. Also, I finally learned what that 6mmx6mm little metal plate with the adhesive backing was that came with my bike last year. The bike came with a box of leftover bits and uninstalled reflectors, etc. It is a backing plate for the tension screw for the front derail. Until someone posted a pic of it yesterday, I did not know they were a thing and had been making my own.
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Jan 14, 2021 19:17
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Well the Praxis PF86 BB that started acting up at mile ~750 finally gave up at exactly mile 1500. Along with the broken chainrings and spider, the whole setup has been nothing but trouble. Constant creaking and popping noises unless it was fully cleaned and greased once a week. It did shift well though. The whole thing has been pulled and set aside. I pressed in a Dura Ace BB and I am just waiting on the GRX crankset to arrive. On a related note, I tried my best to buy from a local shop. But none of them have the aforementioned parts in stock and they all quote 2 week+ arrival times. Oh well. Hopefull this will put my BB/crankset issues to rest once and for all.
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Feb 22, 2021 21:25
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So one of my neighbors asked for some help getting a tire on to a wheel. This bike is a penny farthing style bike that was made from "modern" parts. And by modern I would guess 70's. The front wheel is a steel rim, probably a standard 27". In any case, I can't find any markings as he has spray painted the entire rim, including the inside bed. He hands me the wheel and it just feels oily. "Oh, I had trouble getting the last tire on so I oiled up the rim to try to get it to fit. That didn't work, so I CUT THE BEAD" I just stared at him. "Yeah, I pumped it up to 50 pounds and was riding down the street and it just blew off" At this point I told him to just take it to a bike shop. I want no part in whatever happens next.
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Mar 8, 2021 18:35
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Sorry, wrong thread Cat Ass Trophy fucked around with this message at 20:11 on May 13, 2021 |
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May 13, 2021 20:09
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10 years after having supply and sewer stubs installed in our garage, I finally got around to buying and actually installing a utility sink. I even found all of the required tools, and needed just 1 extra trip to the hardware store for parts. Sewer and supply lines did not even leak. I suspect something will go wrong. I usually gently caress up at least once.
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May 31, 2021 01:48
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I need a new seatpost clamps for three CAAD12 frames. The Cannondale part KP397 is listed as having an inner diameter of 28.0mm. I cannot for the life of me find anything other than the $40 OEM part that will work. Amazon as expected is no help, as everything is mislabeled. Any help would be appreciated.
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Jul 26, 2022 22:58
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CopperHound posted:And if that is a little big, you can always use these: Yeah. 28.6 was too big. Amazing how 0.6mm made such a difference. The clamp closed upon itself well before it began to bind on the seat post. We keep the recycling in the garage, in an area just off in my peripheral vision from my bike workspace. Believe me, the high quality shims seem to creep into my vision all the time. But these are for bikes I rent out to people, so I like to keep them as neat as possible. I'll probably bite the $120 bullet for the 3 OEM clamps.
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Jul 27, 2022 22:07
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SimonSays posted:0.6mm on the diameter becomes 1.9mm on the minor circumference. There's a good reason they're made in 0.2mm increments. I know. I did the math too. I am a huge geek.
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Jul 27, 2022 22:54
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Great timing on the thread name change. I have a ST-6800 shifter that is missing a part. It is on one of my rental bikes. There is some scuffing on the outside of the main lever and body. I assume the last person to use the bike crashed it and did not tell me. Here is the Shimano diagram of the lever. https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/ev/ST-6800-3603/EV-ST-6800-3603.pdf I am missing part #3, left side. Shimano code no. Y63X80010. It seems to be out of stock everywhere. Yes I could buy a whole new lever or just the main assembly, but that seems like a waste. There was a complete left lever on ebay for $50 or so. The body is cracked but the part I need looks intact. Without this support, the shifting mech seems to catch on the carbon brake lever. Anyway, if anyone has better google skills than me and can dig up one of these parts, please let me know.
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Aug 9, 2022 04:13
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Sticky Date posted:I do this with no sealant first, soapy water spray if it doesn't seat when dry, then put the sealant in via the valve with the core removed. Same. But I also soak the tire in HOT water first.
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Aug 14, 2022 21:38
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TobinHatesYou posted:Reminder that road tubeless owns. Until it doesn't. I use road tubeless.
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Sep 2, 2022 19:17
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Clark Nova posted:I carry a laptop with me so that I can hack my SRAM firmware back into working condition when it shits itself fixed it for you. Also, I carry my indoor trainer in case weather conditions go bad. I just set up under a gas station canopy for a few hours and hit the Zwerft.
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Jan 9, 2023 21:52
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Withnail posted:I'm building my fist road bike with disc brakes and the last thing I have not ordered are rotors. It won't matter one bit. I am 200 fat rear end pounds and have no trouble with 140. But in hindsight I should have gone 160 because that is what most people use. Picture this scene. You drive to a friend's house with your 140 equipped road bike for a planned 5 hour ride, only to discover that your rim is cracked upon arrival. If you had 160, you could just swap in one of your friend's extra wheels. But no.......... You have to be a minimalist and save the gram. Begin the process of swapping your 140 onto his extra wheel, only to realize that that you are centerlock and his is a bolt on. No problem, Let's just flip the wedge on my bike to accept a 160. And that is when you strip out one of the bolts that hold the caliper to the fork. Don't ask how I know this.
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Jul 24, 2023 22:26
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Blackhawk posted:Gave myself an ingrown thumbnail which is now infected trying to seat some new tubeless tires onto my gravel bike rims yesterday but at least I got the job done. I don't have a compressor or one of those air canister pumps, just a relatively high volume track pump which makes it a real mission. Some mtb tires I've done before were fairly easy but these 700x40 gravelking tires were waay harder. I'm in the same boat, but was even lazier and used a tube to seat the tire. Then I plan to remove the tube, obviously leaving only one side of the tire seated. A problem appeared in the form of being unable to break the tire bead off of the rim. No wood block in the vise, c-clamps, nothing. It was on and not coming off. I resorted to using 2 channel locks with old inner tube wrapped over the jaws to pull/pry the bead free. I worked it as slowly as I could and hoped for no tire damage. I reseated the tire with the tube again, and this time I was able to release the bead with my hands, but it was an effort. I did this to see if I could do a tube swap on a ride if the sealant does not work. The tire was a Vittoria N.ext 28mm on Giant 38mm carbon rims. With the sealant in, they hold pressure extremely well. I suppose I should do a check soon to see if I can still break the seal by hand. Otherwise I'll be call Mrs. rear end Trophy for a ride home at some point.
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Jul 28, 2023 23:43
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The PCS 4-1 is listed as portable. I have one, and you can sort of get it flat and shortened, and it comes with the pro clamp. It will not fold up as well as some of the other Park portables, but for me it has been good enough. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/deluxe-home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs-4-1?category=Portable
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Oct 29, 2023 05:35
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| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 19:31 |
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I am usually pretty good at searching the interwebs for bike stuff, but for the life of me I can't find the manual for installing the brake cable lines for my USA market 2019 Giant Propel Advanced SL. The existing cables have been chewed up pretty bad where they go through the stem into the frame, and I want to replace them before they fail. If anyone has a link to the manual, I would be eternally grateful.
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Mar 20, 2024 21:13
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