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I pulled an older (2008ish) MTB out of storage. It's a nice enough bike components wise, but to my shame I never maintained it well. I want to use it more this season and hit some trails as well, so I'd be happy for pointers regarding some must-do checks and general maintenance steps. Or whether I should just get a quote for a full service/rebuild from a bike shop because I might overlook something important/safety relevant. I already bled the front brake and it feels better, rear brake seems fine. I do need to clean it, especially the drivetrain is a bit gunked up. Looking at some youtube vids, they tend to completely disassemble the cranks and cassette. I have never done that and I don't have the tools for it, but I'm not averse to getting them. Any other input would be welcome. 
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Mar 13, 2021 22:33
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| # ¿ Apr 20, 2024 03:34 |
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I noticed my drivetrain is a lot louder when it’s in the big ring. The noise seems to come from the rear derailleur. Google searching I’ve found people with similar issues but not really a definitive answer for the cause or resolution. Basically I could repeat word for word what the op says here, except it’s an 11 speed cassette in my case: https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13012957/noisy-drivetrain-when-in-big-ring New bike and new to cycling. Should I just not worry or is this worth going to the shop for?
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May 7, 2021 16:25
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kimbo305 posted:If everything is new and set up, it's not anything to worry about. The noise comes from the particular combination of chain link shape, the angle the chain forms to the cassette when it's on the big ring, and the shape of the cog teeth. Cool, thanks a lot for the reassurance and the explanation. 
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May 7, 2021 18:35
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For some reason the brake lever on my MTB got overextended and the piston popped out of its gasket/cylinder. I pushed it back in no problem, but now the pads are rubbing on the disk. Anything I can do short of bleeding the brake? I've got a kit but not readily accessible right now. Formula Oro K18 is the brake btw.
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Jun 4, 2021 13:16
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CopperHound posted:If the piston popped all the way out it definitely needs to be bled. Thanks for adding the edited part, just tried this and it’s definitely rideable for the weekend! Anyways not using this bike on trails at the moment, just tooling around in the city.
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Jun 4, 2021 18:02
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I got to play "chase the noise" on my last ride, and I think it's probably the wheel(s)/spoke tension. It's sounds like a creaking or metallic rubbing noise, that I first associated with a rubbing disk brake, however, it occurs - only in motion - only when I'm on the bike (i.e. not when I'm lifting the bike and spinning the wheels) - both when pedaling and coasting - also when I apply the disk brakes. I started hearing this very intermittently a few 100k ago, but on the last ride it became pretty permanent - sort of like it's following the rotation of the wheel. I checked the spokes on both wheels and there's at least one that's kinda loose, i.e. I can wiggle it about without much effort. Also, when I apply pressure at the points where the spoke pairs cross, I get a sound that is very similar to the one I hear when riding. That's probably it, right? Is this something that would be worth trying to fix myself or should I just give it to a shop? I haven't worked on wheels/spokes before, but I feel it might be a useful skill to learn. I have spoke keys but not a truing stand or other advanced tools for this.
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Oct 11, 2021 11:32
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| # ¿ Apr 20, 2024 03:34 |
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Thanks for the input, all. I'll get the wheel issue fixed first and see if that does away with the noise.e.pilot posted:Depending how mechanically inclined you are you can use a zip tie on the seat/chain stay or fork to at least true it, the dishing might get thrown off if it’s wildly out of true, as could the spoke tension, but it’s doable. I don’t really recommend it if you don’t know what you’re doing, but I’ve done it plenty of times before I got a proper stand. The wheel isn't really out of true laterally, but I noticed a bit of a wobble that goes "up and down" i.e. parallel to the spokes instead of the axle when I hold the bike and spin the wheel. CopperHound posted:If they are charging less than $40, they probably are not retensioning the wheel and just making it straight with localized tension. This is kinda funny... I gave the bike to the place I bought it at for a tuneup after the first 1500k (on their recommendation). At the time, the back wheel was out of true with a visible lateral/side to side wobble, which I pointed out when I dropped the bike off. When I came to pick it up, they hadn't trued it. I mentioned it, they took it back to the workshop and I got it back after like 10 minutes, the wobble gone. But I think I started noticing the first intermittent sounds shortly after this.
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Oct 12, 2021 09:12
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