|
breaks posted:I'm thinking about buying a Black Mountain Road+ frame and building it up myself. I do most of my own maintenance, I've replaced or installed cassettes, derailleurs, shifters, recabling jobs, poo poo like that, I'm not scared of learning how to do anything I don't know how to do, but having said that I'm fairly inexperienced overall. He sells the frames prepped and with a headset installed if desired which I will, and I'll get the fork cut by some shop locally, but otherwise is there anything that I should be worried about but am too dumb to be thinking of? These days there is enough info online that you really don't need any kind of bike specific knowledge, the fact you do the repairs you mentioned tells me you'll be fine. Just make sure you're ordering the right parts.
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2020 05:29
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 23, 2024 21:11 |
|
|
Great Enoch posted:I have a slightly weird question that I can't seem to find the answer to, and apologies if it's been asked before. I recently took my first proper tumble on my bike and after patching it up, I noticed I can't backpedal in the two/three highest gears. I rarely use them so I might not have noticed until now (it's a gravel bike and I'm usually going quite slow). Is this indicative of a bent RD? Some answers on the internet seem to indicate it's pretty normal not to have enough chain tension to be able to backpedal in the highest gears. EDIT: I've properly indexed the RD and shifting seems pretty solid, otherwise. It's also a 2x system so not 1x related. Sounds like an RD issue but if you take the wheel out and go to spin the freewheel by hand is it super stiff? Could be your hub is tightened too much.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 3, 2020 15:40
|
|
|
tylertfb posted:Well I finally got around to it. M18x0.75mm threads. Turned the thread side on the lathe and then made the hex side on the CNC. I left the threads a little long, will trim them off if I have to, but I think the crank spindle is thru-all so it will just give me more thread engagement. Coward, why didn't you turn the hex ID on the lathe?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 5, 2020 01:39
|
|
|
bicievino posted:If it solves it I have no idea why, but will be happy on your behalf. He has a poltergeist it's not gear related.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 6, 2020 04:39
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Dropped my bike off at the LBS for the loose left-side crank arm on Saturday. They were busy, but the employee had a quick look and thought it might just need that arm. I showed him the worn chainring and we talked about a new crank set (which would include both arms) and maybe a new BB, depending on what they find. Ultimately if you're happy with a new drivetrain that's great but this does feel a little like upselling, I don't see how even a super lovely worn out drivetrain would be 'unsafe'. Was your chain skipping all over the place before? How much is the whole bike worth? Please consider that this 12 speed drivetrain is $289. Are you getting something similar for what you're paying? If you still have the opportunity I would expect that just a new set of cranks +/- a BB would absolutely get you back on track with your bike.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 9, 2020 06:48
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Update on my frankenbike: The shop called this morning and I popped in for a chat. As they were working on it they decided I would also need new derailleurs (front and rear) and at that point costs were starting to get out of hand. I'm not sure how much they did before they stopped - it looked like they got as far as installing the new BB and crankset - and how much I'll need to pay for regardless. We decided to stop work on the bike, and we talked about the new bikes they have for sale on the floor - I'll move that discussion to the megathread. This kind of thing is why I never feel bad about buying poo poo online. Let us know more about your bike and your general area and I bet we can find the parts you'd need on pinkbike to get it going perfectly for under $100.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2020 03:09
|
|
|
We need info on your current bike so we can find parts.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2020 02:26
|
|
|
Time posted:That’s exactly what happened - I’ll do that, thanks. Glad you're alright and yeah I'd just reindex the RD or replace the hanger if it's a replaceable part.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 14, 2020 21:04
|
|
|
dieselfruit posted:Might not be the best thread, but any help would be appreciated. I picked up '74 Sekine a few weeks back and have been planning on swapping out the seat tube. Current one has a separate saddle clamp, and just want something something easier to adjust and a bit slicker looking. But I'm having a bit of trouble with sizing. Get the right sized seatpost, pry that part of the frame apart until it fits, if it's steel you shouldn't really have any issues. Go slowly!
|
|
#
¿
Nov 17, 2020 00:35
|
|
|
Unless you're building a dj bike with a gyro there's no reason to deal with mech brakes for any reason next time. Used hydros are basically free and the new ones are super cheap also.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2020 14:31
|
|
|
Ah sorry I thought this was the MTB thread. I don't know anything about road disc.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2020 17:19
|
|
|
Al2001 posted:
I would spacer it myself.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2020 18:43
|
|
|
What is that?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2020 09:14
|
|
|
Gstu posted:Hey all! Is this a troll post? Why are you putting sealant in tubes?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2020 07:25
|
|
|
VideoGameVet posted:I have BELL brand tubes with sealant and they got me back to the start with thorns in the tires. That’s why. Have you tried just straight up tubeless tires with sealant? Probably less fuss and lighter and better sealing properties and cheaper. e: Don't tubes have that talc-like powder in them? Wouldn't adding sealant to normal tubes just cause it all to gum up?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 25, 2020 06:44
|
|
|
Dren posted:I put a left crank power meter on my bike. I didn’t pay attention to what the gap between the crank arm and the bottom bracket looked like before I took off the old crank. Is the gap between the crank and the spacer supposed to exist? I put the old crank back on and it seemed to be there still. I believe that little metal circle is a wave washer which is a compression spring - I don't think you're done tightening that crank on but I could be wrong.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 30, 2020 00:28
|
|
|
Mauser posted:I just took my bike out for a ride last night and noticed that the front was extra wobbly and a slight lean to one side or the other would cause the front tire to turn strongly in that direction which was not a lot of fun. I put a ~2lb front rack on the bike a couple months ago, but this is the first time I'm noticing this, so I do not think it's that. Any ideas as to what might be wrong? If you lift the front of the bike up and spin the wheel is it straight? Did you have to undo the wheel to install the rack (and maybe not tighten it back on fully set into the dropouts)? Is the tire pressure low (I think it's this)?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 30, 2020 16:36
|
|
|
Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:I guess this is a good place to ask as well as the AI thread. Take the wheel off or put an old wheel on if it's the type of rack where the bike rests on the tires. I had a tire burned through by exhaust at a race as a kid, it for sure can happen.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2020 06:12
|
|
|
Dren posted:I got a torque wrench and properly torqued my crank. The resulting gap is as prescribed by the manual I found. I had under tightened it by a quarter turn or so, not sure what it was at. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Awesome!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 1, 2021 00:00
|
|
|
I mean, better a degreaser than a greaser.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 10, 2021 14:23
|
|
|
Dren posted:Do i need to dry my bike after washing it? I recommend taking the seat tube out if it's a carbon bike to let the water evaporate from inside the frame after you wash it. I was gently pressure washing (I know I know) and found that water finds it's way in and stays there.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2021 04:07
|
|
|
Casual Yogurt posted:My rear derailleur was shifting like poo poo so I took it to the LBS. The guy was like "i fixed your stuff but u need new brake pads" and I was like "yea i know" and he's like "we have the ones for the front but for the rear they are backordered" and he gave me the part number to order online then bring to them to install. Maybe they just had 1 set on hand and figured the fronts needed it more than the rears?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 31, 2021 00:28
|
|
|
Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Would a Specialized bike with SRAM hydros come with the calipers installed to the bike shop? Some of my t25 bolts look like they were installed with a 4mm Allen key because they’re chewed up, and I’m trying to figure out if this was a shop thing or a Specialized thing. Absolutely a shop thing. Most of the time the caliper would be installed to the frame on a bike shipped to a shop but they might have taken the bolt off for a customer's bike or something.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 10, 2021 20:02
|
|
|
There's no wrong interface format for bolts, only wrong size of bolt head.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2021 03:23
|
|
|
VideoGameVet posted:I snapped this alloy fork putting the bike into a rack: I actually think this was already compromised, it's not a close up (you can take a better look IRL) but these areas seem fouled/darker than the other areas:  It would be weird to have two points of failure from stress like that but it could be that this indicates a failure was already there as dirt had already gotten onto those surfaces, compared to the bright grey areas where the metal failed just now.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2021 09:05
|
|
|
Mauser posted:Any ideas what a rhythmic popping sound might be only during medium to fast speeds seemingly coming from the tire? Just started after I inflated the tires and I'm guessing they're not properly seated maybe? Possibly bad bearings in the hub, or an overtightened hub.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2021 23:56
|
|
|
Voodoofly posted:Any recommendations on torque wrenches? I don’t have any at the moment. I enjoy wrenching on bikes but it will be for bolt checks and other minor things, I’m not assembling a bike or anything. That said I don’t mind paying a little more now for something that will last and fulfill a variety of functions down the road. Most torque wrenches don't go low enough to be used on stuff like m5 bolts you see on bikes so make sure whatever you end up with goes low. Also look for something in newton-meters because ft/lbs is not commonly used. I have this one and it's fine. I found that my comfort level with most of the recommended torques is low and I end up overtorquing everything just like I normally would I guess. I have 20 years of habit when it comes to how much to tighten stem bolts and pivots and it's very difficult to trust that using 65% as much torque is going to be enough.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 5, 2021 22:43
|
|
|
Every single aspect of that bike is going to have issues like that with it - thanks for supporting your lbs! I'd take a punch and a mini sledgehammer and start trying to rotate the BB out that way.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 20, 2021 04:15
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:My brakes suck. Dirt and water between the pad and rotor isn't really a huge problem, the issue is more that the brakes aren't great imo. Maybe look for a pair of used hydros on pinkbike, it's well worth it. It could be that the pads were contaminated with oil or something in the water puddles but if they're fine once they're warm that's not what I would expect there.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 26, 2021 00:54
|
|
|
FISHMANPET posted:Can I use this plate to mount a kickstand? Yeah that's what that bolt is there for probably.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2021 04:14
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:It looks kinda small, like an M6, maybe? Should be an M10 with an 8mm hex head for a kickstand. I can't seem to find any that bolt up from below, but it should work if the threading goes all the way through the kickstand's base. Yeah maybe or for SKUs of the bike that had routed cables there, to hold the plastic slider for the cables. I still think it would work fine as a kickstand mount - worst thing that happens is the bolt breaks somehow and it's not doing anything else at the moment.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2021 05:40
|
|
|
FISHMANPET posted:OK, so I'd been staring at that plate for weeks trying to figure out what it was for. The thing that was throwing me every time is that all the kickstands I'd see, the plate on the kickstand ran from side to side on the frame, and that plate on my bike appeared to run front to back, or twisted 90 degrees from the way kickstands are normally mounted. Just wanted to second what esporks said - I would avoid using the kickstand if possible and I certainly wouldn't take the time to modify one to work or space it out or whatever. Adult bikes (real ones) don't have kickstands - it's totally fine to just lay the bike down (we all do this with our expensive adult bikes), if the stand comes down and deploys it could catch the ground and toss your kid off the bike.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2021 03:48
|
|
|
Giant Metal Robot posted:I was just looking up hazardous waste disposal with bikes, and now I'm just generally confused. IMO if you have pools of this liquid in containers then you should take them to somewhere to have them properly disposed of (good luck trying to get an auto shop to take your trash for free), but stuff like gloves and rags and such (so long as we're talking about the small amount of product that you'd be using on your bike or two bikes) are fine to go in the garbage. Stuff like acetone or probably some very volatile cleaning fluids you have to be more careful with because they can ignite more easily than you'd expect if your trash bag ends up in the sun or something and you have it packed full of acetone soaked rags. If you have some place that will take rags/gloves/etc then I guess do that, it's the best thing possible but I expect not super feasible.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2021 04:11
|
|
|
Yeah I've never had tires last anywhere near 1100km although I appreciate the riding is much different. I don't think he's skidding. OP try to find a more hybrid tire for the rear that is designed mostly for road/paths with a bit of trail use.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 15, 2021 11:28
|
|
|
I personally think it's just more annoyance for someone that isn't going to be reaping the main tubeless benefit of very low minimum tire pressures. I run tubes in my DH bike in 2021 because I don't want to deal with sealant.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2021 07:36
|
|
|
vikingstrike posted:Tubeless is also something once you get used to it isn’t that bad. Ymmv of course I just get irritated thinking about the sealant going hard in my wheels while my bikes sit in my apartment between use. I know it's not a huge deal, you just add more, etc but I can't stop myself from going over and spinning the wheels all the time to move it and I just generally don't like the idea of having a mess inside my wheel that weighs not nothing when you keep adding sealant every season. Ehhh.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2021 19:24
|
|
|
Voodoofly posted:"The chip has no battery and uses a weak signal that requires the smart phone to be close (about 3cm) to the tire for the app to work." Russia (I think) had something similar as a listening device in an ambassador's office. It had no intrinsic power supply but I think they shot short amplitude radio waves at it to turn it on and get the data from across the street. Found it: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Thing_(listening_device)#:~:text=The%20Thing%2C%20also%20known%20as,%2C%20on%20August%204%2C%201945.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2021 23:23
|
|
|
Some thoughts
Personally, I wouldn't lubricate stem bolts at all. The materials involved (steel bolts, threads tapped into an aluminum stem) are naturally quite soft, the forces involved are extremely low, and the area doesn't get heat cycled in any way that would promote seizing. The cockpit components (brakes, shifters, dropper control, grips) are typically fastened with such small diameter bolts that by lubricating them you're only going to overtighten to the point of stripping them accidentally. I'm trying to think if I lubricate any bolts on my bikes and I'm pretty sure I don't. Bolts that I do lubricate (with anti-seize) includes car stuff like lug nuts that will be adjacent to the brake rotor, and other assorted large diameter bolts that get fastened very tightly that I don't want to fight the next time I remove them. I don't think threadlocker is indicated for this usage either but it's not as big a deal IMO to use it, the 5mm bolts are large enough that you won't have issues removing them with even liberal amounts of blue loctite on them. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 16:01 on May 6, 2021 |
|
#
¿
May 6, 2021 15:54
|
|
|
You probably know this already but make sure you aren't crossing your chainline too much, IE being in the big chainring and the big cassette ring.
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2021 18:51
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 23, 2024 21:11 |
|
|
Tortilla Maker posted:The braking cables on my gardener's bike (Schwinn Impact MOS, circa 1990) snapped and he lost a few of the bolts holding the brakes in place. I would think if he went to one of those community shops with a hundred lovely bikes in the back they could piece something together for like $30. It might be hard to find the right thing to buy online/used without having a bunch of supply to try on the bike and see what works.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2021 15:51
|
|