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So, you’ve been riding your bike a while, and after mile 15 you let your mind wander and start thinking… “How does this magical wonder-steed work?” But, that never really happens. Something usually feels off or something just stops working. And for those moments, you now have this thread. Use this as a resource for questions about undertaking any repairs yourself, or if you're having a problem with your bike. Though most bike related repairs can be performed at home, be sure to research how to do something BEFORE YOU DO IT. Set aside plenty of time, make sure you have the tools and parts you need before undertaking a new project. Know that there's no substitute for an experienced hand and tutelage when it comes to Bicycle Repair, but hopefully this thread will be the next best thing. If after posting in here, you don't feel comfortable working on your own bike, take it into an LBS or visit a local Bike Co-Op, ask them for advice and have them walk you through the process. While some of us are very experienced bike mechanics, without actually servicing your bike in person we can't insure that things are done safely and correctly, so when in doubt consult a professional. As a general disclaimer, we assume no liability for you screwing things up and getting hurt as a result, if you're not sure, or you aren't convinced that something is done properly than just go to a bike shop and have a professional service your bike. Tools There are many tools that you can get “Bike Specific” versions of, while these are often a bit more specialized for bike purposes ( ie Allen Wrenches or Box End Wrenches) any decent brand will work, and can often be had for a lot less than their Bike-Specific counterparts. Bike Specific Tool Brands These are the Specialty Tools for Bike Specific Purposes
Basic Bicycle Toolbox If you ride a bike, you should have at LEAST these tools.
Bigger, Better Bike Box Some Good Examples are: The Nashbar Beginner Toolkit Park Tool - Advanced Mechanic Tool Kit These are more as-needed.
Don't Buy These Unless you're planning on opening your own bike shop, it's easier to have a shop or go to a co-op to use these tools.
Common Bike Fix Problems How to Wrap Bar Tape https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhXeSJQtoWU Adjust a Front Derailleur Set Up the Angle  Set up Height  Once it's aligned properly, you can set the cable tension and lever throw. Step 1 - Grab the FD Cable and while pulling it, let out all the slack in the front shifter, if there is any slack in the cable, then you need to re-tension the cable (Continue to Step 2). Step 2 - Loosen the Front Derailleur's binder bolt and pull the cable taut, then screw it down again. Step 3 -  That's it, you're done. Go ride your bike, or if you just got back grab a beer or something.True a Wheel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ww48YLhAiRI Adjust a Rear Derailleur: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2j1gSwhsVN8 Dial in Brakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eAHrHDTsu5U Adjust a Threadless Headset https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87idYGmg77k How to Mount a Tire https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4 How to Measure a Chain https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuhHn7HaZcQ Resources and Guides Sheldon Brown's Website Park Tool.com
Ohio City Bicycle Co-op - Shop Manual - A Wiki that covers Tools and Service Bike Co-Ops If you're interested in striking out on your own, check to see if you can volunteer at a nearby Bicycle Co-Op. Often times they'll have free classes and clinics and will let give volunteers free time with Tools and Repair stands in exchange for their time. Here is a listing of such organizations. CopperHound posted:I made a tutorial to share with aspiring wheel builders for calculating spoke lengths. e.pilot fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Sep 29, 2020 |
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Jul 25, 2020 15:36
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MacPac posted:do any of you have some weird old tricks for unseating tight beads from rims? Im getting a wicked forearm workout from trying to remove this conti gp 5000 tire, but its not coming off hot water and a good tire lever fill your tub or sink with enough hot water to submerge a good portion of the wheel at a time until it’s all fairly warm, the idea being it hopefully softens up the rubber enough to let it slide off easier
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Aug 2, 2020 15:37
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looks fine from here
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Aug 3, 2020 02:40
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road tubeless is real good
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Aug 3, 2020 17:29
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CopperHound posted:I keep seeing people saying this, but I am yet to see any evidence of it being effective. I double flatted last week with orange seal in the tubes, reinflated and went on to do 150 more miles and counting still holding air no problem.
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Aug 3, 2020 21:01
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CopperHound posted:Okay. Maybe a stupid question, but I only ask because I've seen it before: Is your tube or the tire holding the air in? Yes.
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Aug 4, 2020 06:56
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evil_bunnY posted:It works great, with the caveat that you can't use tubeless plugs for larger punctures. For small rocks/pins/goatheads it's effin' great. e.pilot top tip: if you get a puncture that won’t quite seal, unseat the tire and reseat it so the tube and tire puncture aren’t lining up, I’ve sealed a hilarious puncture by doing that
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Aug 4, 2020 16:29
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evil_bunnY posted:This is legit brilliant I kept meaning to take a picture of it.  Still running the same tube too, 200+ miles strong
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Aug 8, 2020 00:23
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SKs are real bad at washing out. Give the GK EXT a look, it’s the same casing with a more aggressive tread.
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Aug 8, 2020 16:41
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The 38 EXTs say 38 on the label but the molded numbers on the casing say 40, they do seem a bit big.
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Aug 8, 2020 17:43
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If you don’t set the B screw you’ll B screwed. 
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Aug 13, 2020 03:29
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what kind of riding?
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Aug 17, 2020 20:13
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PolishPandaBear posted:Primarily fast road group rides when that happens again. Racing when that happens again? Might be able to get away with tubeless GP5Ks, if you want something a little more durable then Panaracer gravel king slicks would also be good.
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Aug 17, 2020 21:24
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Levitate posted:Why do you need 36 spokes To support the burden of how bad the megathread OP is
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Aug 18, 2020 18:44
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DELETE CASCADE posted:i've got another reason: that poo poo's a pain in the rear end and i don't want to deal with it lol imagine being this bad at bikes
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Aug 18, 2020 23:25
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nm posted:I'm coming to visit. 
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Aug 19, 2020 12:32
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It’s a mess to clean up when you want to inevitably lay down new tape. Just get some powder coating masking tape, it’s the same thing as tubeless tape for a fraction of the price. https://www.amazon.com/Hxtape-Polyethylene-Terephthalate-Applications-inch-36yds-2/dp/B07D716PFJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa
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Aug 21, 2020 21:45
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Mauser posted:
omg that brown 
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Aug 22, 2020 01:44
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mech discs should be immediately replaced with TRP HY/RDs
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Aug 27, 2020 20:14
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FogHelmut posted:I've got mechanical discs and I can lock them up with no problem but my hands get loving tired on long downhills. I'm definitely looking to upgrade, or take steroids. being able to lock up brakes says nothing of required lever force and modulation, if that’s your criteria of good brakes then rim brakes are just fine too
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Aug 28, 2020 03:11
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if you choke up HY/RDs a bunch they will not adjust, but it takes a long time to manifest itself as a problem, and all you have to do to reset it is adjust it back to the recommended amount and pump it a few times, then set it how you’d like
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Aug 28, 2020 03:32
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eSporks posted:I think you mean trp spyke/spyre. 
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Aug 28, 2020 06:19
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FogHelmut posted:I've got Spyres! If you were building up a bike I wouldn’t do HY/RD over a full hydro setup, but if you’ve got mech disc already, the cost and ease of installing HY/RD is 100% worth it. They’re not quite as good as full hydro, but drat if they aren’t close, especially for the price.
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Aug 28, 2020 15:52
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bicievino posted:I dunno. Personally if I have reasonably functioning mechanical discs, I'm not gonna spend $150 (plus new compressionless housing) to swap to something that is only slightly better. I'd rather spend $200-$350 (depending on what group you're matching to - apex 1x is hella cheap, 105 2x is a bit spendy but still quite reasonable) and go all the way. I mostly agree but it’s also a lot more effort to install a full hydro setup. Installing hydro you’d need to run hoses, put ends on the hoses, get brake fluid and bleed kit, bleed the brakes, and install levers and re-wrap the bars. It’s a lot more daunting of a task, especially if you’ve never done it before. Installing HY/RD is literally 6 bolts, nothing to bleed, and hardly anything to adjust. The only extra parts you might need are some new brake cables if the old mech cables are too short. For sure they’re a compromise but they’re still vastly better than mech disc, for the cost of a nice set of tires you can massively improve brake modulation, effort, and feel.
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Aug 28, 2020 17:26
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I went from Spyres to HY/RD on my last road bike and found the difference in feel to be substantial. 🤷🏼♀️ I still have HY/RD on my commuter/tourer, as there’s not really a good way to get hydro with an alfine on drop bars.
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Aug 28, 2020 18:03
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CopperHound posted:Are you doing microshift or di2? I did microshift for a little while but absolutely hated the levers, now I have an IRD bar end and TRP SS levers and it’s perfect.
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Aug 28, 2020 19:55
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:The TRP Hylex? The drillium silvers are dreamy not the drillium but they are silver  along with the silver bar end and silver HY/RDs 
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Aug 28, 2020 20:16
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eSporks posted:What is a hy/rd getting you? Other than a more complicated brake. The main advantage of hydro is the lack of housing compression followed by self centering pads. Hy/rd does nothing for the former, and spyre does just fine for the latter. Self adjusting pads, better modulation, more progressive feel, they’re self contained and won’t require any maintenance or adjustment other than putting new pads in occasionally. Literally put them on and forget about them and have better feeling brakes for the cost of a nice pair of tires.
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Aug 28, 2020 23:19
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Crumps Brother posted:You never have to bleed them? How does that work? They’re self contained and as long as you never open them shouldn’t require bleeding, if they need bleeding something is likely broken or they’ve been opened. Fluid replacement eventually every few years sure, but that’s still way less fiddling than mech discs. 
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Aug 29, 2020 00:05
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VideoGameVet posted:If you have BB7s, this video WILL CHANGE YOUR LIFE! I was really hoping this was going to be like the canti brake video a while back where he took it off and hucked it in the trash.
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Sep 2, 2020 01:12
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CopperHound posted:Would you like me to make a video on how to service sticky hydro sram levers? Yes please
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Sep 2, 2020 17:52
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Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread: problem solved until it causes a problem again
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Sep 2, 2020 20:47
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EvilJoven posted:Pitching those in the garbage might be satisfying but shipping them off for warranty and then selling the new ones they send as replacements (don't use em, they'll fail too, even the 'redesigned' ones) gets you money for actual good bike parts. Woah look at this guy ruining the joke.
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Sep 3, 2020 04:58
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that’s a post mount, what you linked to is also a post mount
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Sep 10, 2020 18:13
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Friendly reminder to grease and not over torque your XD cassettes if you ever plan on taking them off. Guess I’ll be buying a new driver and cassette now 
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Sep 12, 2020 22:34
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That looks fine to me, I’d still keep an eye on it for a few rides at least.
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Sep 13, 2020 18:32
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Ive bought a dumb Fuji Marlboro folder for dirt cheap and I’m going to use it for dicking around, and taking with me locally. I’ve stripped everything off it because it came with department store tier garbage parts, while the frame is reasonably decent. It came with no-name canti brakes, friction FD, 5 speed Shimano RD, an insanely heavy one piece 3x crank (1757g with pedals), a 150mm 1” QR stem, and a 26.4 seat post that weighs 850g. I assume that’s a BSA BB shell on that frame? I’ve done this on a couple of BSA bikes now, the cheapest/easiest way I’ve found for 1x is to get whatever 110bcd crank will fit BSA with the appropriate BB and get an appropriate chainring, SRAM and FSA make real nice narrow-wide 1x chain rings that account for the change in chain line going to 1x on a 2x crank. There are tons of options (megaexo, bb386, hollowtech, GXP, etc) more or less the only relatively common modern BB standard that won’t fit BSA is BB30.
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Sep 15, 2020 20:13
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Yeah, BSA. I’ve found a square taper crank which has removable chainrings and is supposedly narrow/wide although the pictures don’t seem to show that. I was planning on using another square taper bb because I have the tools for it and I’m looking to do this on the cheap, mostly with parts I have on hand. oh in that case just get whatever 2x 110bcd square taper crank and go nuts https://www.backcountry.com/sram-force-cx1-x-sync-11-speed-110bcd-chain-ring
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Sep 15, 2020 20:52
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mexecan posted:Question: is there a way to change a 12x100 wheel to a 15x110 without switching out the hub? Depends on the hub but most likely no.
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Sep 21, 2020 22:55
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| # ¿ Apr 16, 2024 23:20 |
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What kind of gearing are you running to need that on the stuntman?  I have an 11-46 that works just fine on mine.
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Sep 22, 2020 17:41
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