Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread: friction in the front, index the rear

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > The Great Outdoors > Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread: friction in the front, index the rear

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mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Withnail posted:

Has anyone used a rivnut to replace a water bottle mounting nut in a carbon frame? I watched a few people do it on youtube, but I have a feeling if something went wrong it could be bad.

Currently the nut is just missing and there is little or no damage to the carbon...

If you are that worried just use some epoxy glue to stick the rivnut in place.

# ¿ Aug 6, 2020 06:22

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 11:07

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

I just put on my first set of Continental GP5000 tubeless, now drinking beer to ease the pain in my thumbs.

# ¿ Sep 5, 2020 15:16

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

FogHelmut posted:

Those are some massive thumbs if you did without levers.

I put on a set with tubes to set in the tubeless rim tape. The next day after I removed the tubes, the tires had stretched and basically fell back into place with very little effort. It's hilarious how much of a difference it was.

Just one lever, but I did cheat and hold the tyre in a vice because I was chasing the tyre round the wheel, the only other tubeless tyres I have fitted were Giant�s Gavia but they had been already been fitted, the gp5000s did seat with just a track pump but the Gavias always needed my compressor. I think if I hadn�t been lazy I could have removed the discs and put the wheels on the floor.

# ¿ Sep 6, 2020 08:52

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

kimbo305 posted:

I got two Bontrager freehub bodies, a 54t and 108t.

From everything I've read, the functional difference is solely in that the 54t body has 3 pawls and 3 empty sockets instead of the full 6. But I'm curious about 2 things --

2) what's the purpose of the smoothed out landings at the base of the splines on the 108t body? They're slightly raised and sligthtly less bevel compared to the rest of the spline.
The 54t body has the same thing, but not smoothed out.

The cynical part of me wants to say its to stop you from using individual cogs on the last few positions of your freehub.

# ¿ Sep 13, 2020 07:13

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

kimbo305 posted:

I'm trying to understand how GXP deals with bracket type FDs.

So Hollowtech 73mm does it by having a narrower driveside cup (not illustrated in the diagram), and defaulting to using a 2.5mm spacer when you don't run a bracket FD mount?

I understand how the GXP crank is fixed at the NDS cup.
But I don't see any mention of how to accomodate for the width of a bracket FD. It's just screw in the DS cup no matter what.
Is there just a 2.5mm gap on the DS cup, with seals/covers taking up the cap?

There is a wave washer to take up that space also you can use cassette spacers to move the drive side cup out.
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/sram-s...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wheels-Manufacturing-1mm-Cassette-Spacer/dp/B0025UINFC

# ¿ Sep 19, 2020 15:59

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

kimbo305 posted:

Under what circumstances would you want one on the DS cup? Default install doesn�t require them, and the bracket FD would provide its own push outboard.

I am sorry I miss understood your question ( the wave washer fits over the crankset spindle and allows you to add preload to your bearings}.

Does this explain things clearer?

68mm shell 1X2.5mm NDS 2 X 2.5mm DS
68mm shell 1X2.5mm NDS 1 X 2.5mm DS and E type bracket
73mm shell 1 X2.5mm DS or no spacers and E type bracket

kimbo305 posted:

I don't see any mention of how to accomodate for the width of a bracket FD. It's just screw in the DS cup no matter what.
Is there just a 2.5mm gap on the DS cup, with seals/covers taking up the cap?

All you are doing is missing out a 2.5mm spacer from the drive side cup when you fit a bracket type front derailleur.

mikemelbrooks fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Sep 20, 2020

# ¿ Sep 20, 2020 07:06

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

kimbo305 posted:

I'm all clear on Shimano.
What about GXP? I don't see any documented accomodation for the bracket mount thickness.

The diagram was taken from instructions for a GXP bottom bracket.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cranks/165-thorn-130-pcd-ex-bearing-single-crankset-with-integral-bottom-bracket/

# ¿ Sep 20, 2020 13:40

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

I would try unclamping the cable at the derailleur and starting again. And yes you can just use the limmit screws to keep the chain on which ever sprocket you wish.

# ¿ Sep 20, 2020 15:58

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

kimbo305 posted:

While that crank is definitely GXP style, the bottom bracket SJS says in the comments to replace it with is a Hope, with the same Shimano style spacer setup.

My confusion was over whether the 73 standard was designed knowing there would be a bracket type mount option, and whether manufacturers were able to design their BBs to that option. I had thought chainline would be an issue, but �

Given how Shimano 73 installs with a spacer by default, maybe they knew about the bracket mount up front, and they can keep the chainline in place under either option.

I just measured the Shimano cups, and they�re the same thickness, not thinner on the DS like I had read somewhere. So to keep pedal symmetry, the DS crank just needs to be narrower than the NDS by that spacer width, assuming the 73 BB shell is symmetric to the frame.

GXP lucks out on chainline (or I suppose by design, if you ask SRAM engineers) since that�s fixed on the NDS side. Just need the spindle long enough to poke out past the DS bearing.
Digging more, like there�s plenty of people who find the gap when installing GXP and use spacers or washers outboard of the dust cover. So it seems likely the spindle is long enough.

I think a lot of the problem is SRAM seems to sell bottom brackets without saying what width the cups are, I think if it comes with spacers it�s the narrower design. May be it�s a OEM thing but the cups fitted to my bike work without any spacers and it�s a 69mm BB.

# ¿ Sep 20, 2020 20:16

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

EvilJoven posted:

Sometimes I make double butted or bladed pokey spokes just so I can look down my nose at plebs using straight gauge pokey spokes.

Edit: another incredibly useful spoke based tool is to curl the spoke around tight to make a handle and affix the magnet from a speed sensor on the two ends, using the j bend for additional security. Use that thing to fish bearings out of hubs and stuff.

If you regularly wax your chain, an old spoke bent like below comes in really handy for replacing your chain.

# ¿ Oct 2, 2020 18:14

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

If you�re waxing your chain and not using a connex link I don�t know what to tell you

Calm down, I just used a stock photo!

# ¿ Oct 2, 2020 18:35

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

EvilJoven posted:

Honestly though unless you really like the bike it'd probably be worth it to put that kind of money into a new bike.

# ¿ Nov 9, 2020 23:57

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Thom ZombieForm posted:

Thanks! This could be the case. Yes, carbon assembly paste. Canyon is shipping another stem to try. In the meanwhile, the bicycle is rideable.

I am pleasantly surprised by the shifting, very smooth - except for some gears, in which a clicking noise is evident, and sometimes the chain seems "in between" two gears, requiring another shift upwards or downwards to fix. I was in a rushed ride so didn't have time to take note of what gear/s it happens in. Could this be cross chaining or does the rear derailleur need adjustment? I don't know if I would be surprised, considering the bike was shipped to me in a box and handled god knows how en route.

No, there is a reason for that bolt. If the stem fails while you are riding you will probably crash.

# ¿ Dec 15, 2020 11:22

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

dieselfruit posted:

Anybody have any recommendations on cheap and cheerful truing stands? I want to rebuild a bent to poo poo real wheel in the most inconvenient way possible (high flange hub, 27" rim, 4-cross lacing) and rather than pay the LBS I thought it would be a good excuse to work on a skill.

The cheapest option would be to just do it with the wheel on the bike and just use a pen or something to check the rim, but I'm expecting that to be frustrating and looking to make my life simpler. The Park Tools TS-8 is available here but at $180 CAD is probably a bit steep for what's basically a whim. Other options are crappy Chinese eBay things, but they look a bit poo poo and I don't want to wait 60 days to have it shipped over. Thoughts?

I used to use a couple of cable ties for wheel straightening, Use a reasonably large size and put one on either seat stay if you cut them off and leave a pointed end you can twist them around to adjust the gap between the end of the cable tie and brake track. to check wheel dish just reverse the wheel in the frame.
This explains it better. https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x6t5g46

# ¿ Dec 15, 2020 23:57

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Al2001 posted:

I'm not sure I understand still, and this is a part of bike mechanics I'd like to get straight. So I should push out the normal pins and then use a spare master pin (or quicklink) to reconnect the link?

yes!

# ¿ Dec 17, 2020 22:32

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

kgibson posted:

Hey all, still no luck with this issue. I did end up swapping out pulleys and retrying b-screw and cable tension adjustments to no avail. I also tried adjusting the tension on the chain by moving the wheels around in the dropouts, but that didn't make much difference at all. I grabbed a quick vid of the noise I'm trying to address:

https://imgur.com/UwrgWLA

(Sorry for the shakiness and portrait orientation.)

The clicking in the third to smallest cog is the issue. The same noise is present to a lesser extent in the fourth largest. They seem worse in the small ring but are present in both.

I doesn't sound 100% indexed to me, I swap chains between my bikes and accidentally put a 9 speed chain on a 10 speed bike the chain would just catch on only the ramped part of the cogs. If you haven't thrown away the old components maybe swap back the chain to eliminate that., and /or the cassette.

# ¿ Dec 22, 2020 12:06

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Shimano Tiagra does ten speed hydraulic, but also bear in mind that most Shimano road calipers are flat mount and it looks like yours are post mount.

# ¿ Jan 9, 2021 23:48

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Dangerllama posted:

So�my rear derailleur (Ultegra group) no longer wants to shift down from the two biggest sprockets. It�ll switch between the two just fine, but won�t shift out any further. The downshift on the brifter just clicks and nothing else happens. The derailleur is lined up, as far as I can tell. I just ordered new shift cables/housing, but is there a good way to quickly determine if there�s also (or alternatively) a problem with the brifter?

A few days ago it was working but the shifting felt out of alignment and the rear was having trouble picking gears quickly. A week or two ago everything was fine.

You can try peeling back the rubber hood, or if you have exposed cable pull on that while shifting, If you have someone who can give you a hand get them to gently pull on the derailleur while you shift.

# ¿ Jan 11, 2021 23:44

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

amenenema posted:

As for seatposts, when I was trying to find a post for my Rockhopper -> gravel build basically everything I read said that except for some very edge cases setback posts don't make sense. TT's and weird fit situations were the common exceptions. Got any examples of more "general use"? I'm genuinely curious!

# ¿ Feb 21, 2021 22:21

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

FISHMANPET posted:

So I'm working on rebuilding an old bike of mine. It's a cheap hybrid bike I got back in 2006 (a Giant Cypress ST). It's a dumb project to put any effort into such a cheap bike, but I really like the frame geometry, and I've wanted to learn more about the insides of a bicycle.

I was able to get one crank arm off with a crank puller, but the other was so stuck on that the bike shop needed a blow torch and some kind of giant wedge chisel thing to get the other one off. So already we're off to a pretty good start, everything is pretty seized up from 15 years of wear and I'm guessing no grease in these threads when it was originally manufactured.

So now I'm taking out the bottom bracket. It's a 20 splined square spindle so I've got the appropriate tool (Park Tool BB-22), and I'm taking off the non drive side first, turning counter clock wise. Problem is, the bottom bracket cup on that side is plastic, and completely stuck. So the whole thing has just sort of disintegrated as I apply force.

My understanding/hope is that if I can somehow remove or destroy that plastic cap, that then I'll be able to remove the cartridge from the drive side. I don't care about the bottom bracket so I'm perfectly willing to destroy it, but I'm not even completely sure how to go about that.

Having run back to my LBS once already on this I'd like to avoid it again if possible, but if it requires specialized tools (like, a blowtorch) I can have them give it a try. Any suggestions?

Can you remove the bottom bracket from the drive side first then use a hacksaw to cut the plastic retainer out?
Or use a crank bolt and a load of washers/ spacers to stop the park tool from slipping?

mikemelbrooks fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Mar 20, 2021

# ¿ Mar 20, 2021 13:57

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

a loathsome bird posted:

I got a carbon fork for my Surly, sacrilege I know. Now I have to figure out how to cut a carbon steerer tube.
What is the difference between the Park Tool SG 7.2 and the SG 8? Would I be ok just using two hose clamps as the saw guide like some people are saying online? I'm planning on using a tungsten carbide grit hacksaw blade.

Any advice appreciated, I know nothing about working with carbon stuff.

If you are only going to cut one steerer I would just use a hose clamp, advice: Err on the side of caution, you can always cut it shorter but you can't cut it longer, wear gloves and a mask.

# ¿ Mar 22, 2021 20:52

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

God Hole posted:

I finally got myself a hitch rack, which ended up being a thule camber 2

the thing itself is steel and very solid, however it has a pretty serious security flaw in that those three bolts on the side are easily removable so the whole top half of the rack can be taken off in <1 minute.

I don't plan on leaving my bikes locked up to my trailer hitch for any extended periods of time, but when it inevitably does happen I'd like potential thieves to need more than a wrench. in addition to a heavy-duty chain that loops through a steel ring on the car's trailer hitch itself (meaning potential thieves have no choice but to actually cut the chain to remove the bike from the car), i plan to lock the bike to the rack itself with 15mm u-locks. that second line of defense is completely undermined if the top of the rack can just be removed from its socket.

I was thinking of lining the threads with locktite red, maybe shoring up the lug nuts with some JD Weld cold-weld epoxy? that's the best that I can think of short of actually welding the lug nuts to the bolts. would that be sufficient to keep a really determined person from unscrewing them?

Maybe replace them with security bolts? When I used a hitch rack I always tried to reverse up to a solid wall, try to give any thieves as little room as possible. also If they can't see it they can't steal it.
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# ¿ May 14, 2021 10:55

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Al2001 posted:

Is bike-specific copper grease (anti-seize) the same as the car stuff? I ask because of the significant price difference!

Same

# ¿ Jun 8, 2021 16:28

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

multijoe posted:

The first time round I had it all sorted at my bike shop, this is the first time doing it myself. But I've checked and there's a tubeless valve stem installed ATM which would need removing to put the inner tube back in.

But I've tried the inner tube method with the valve stick out the side, thought it had worked but as soon as I loosened one side the entire tire popped out again, I've tried the tire remover method linked in the video repeatedly but the tire keep slipping back into the centre of the rim at the slightest opportunity and I cannot get enough of it to stay pre-mounted to build any air pressure.

I don't know if it's my incompetence or really obstinate tires but genuinely despairing at this point, spent over three hours trying to get these to mount at this point and I just cannot get them to work

A compressor is not important a large volume of air in a short time is, you need good size air tank, I have found that by rolling the wheel on the ground where the air is leaking from while inflating helps if you can't get it to pop one the rim try adding another layer of tape it doesn't need to be tubeless tape. good luck !

# ¿ Jun 17, 2021 12:49

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Dren posted:

The battery cover fell off my stages crank arm power meter. I emailed stages to see if they have replacements but in the mean time does anyone have any ideas for getting the battery pressed in hard enough to work? I put some electrical tape across the back but since the battery doesn�t sit flush it didn�t hold it in tight enough. Perhaps I could wrap the tape all the way around the crank and put something under it to hold the battery down?

I got a replacement cover for my Stages power meter from eBay for a few quid. You want to make sure that the inside doesn't get wet.

# ¿ Jun 19, 2021 21:25

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Pantsmaster Bill posted:

Cleaned my drivetrain today, went to put the bike on the trainer, noticed a small bolt drop out when doing it, then my derailleur fell off by the hanger!

Looks like I need a new hanger as the threads seem a little stripped on one of the holes. Is the wheels mfg 176 equivalent to a trek 315464?

The more I look at it, the more I think it�s been built with the wrong bolts. Should these bolts go further in (eg should they be longer)? There�s no point me buying a new hanger if it�ll strip the threads again!

The rule of thumb is the depth of the thread should be one and a half times the diameter of the bolt. It is doubtful that they paid extra to get bolts exactly the depth of the frame. The wheel axle should take the load and the two small bolts only align the hanger, It is possible the quick release wasn't tight enough. For peace of mind, you could buy longer bolts and cut them to length, either way I would use some Loctite on them.

# ¿ Jun 19, 2021 21:37

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Cuntpunch posted:

Replaced chain - went for a 20km round-trip ride, with a stop for vaccination in the middle - noticed that when at cadence - primarily in the highest gear, there was a certain specific *feel* that went along with pedaling. No noise, and it definitely wasn't a "hey, chain is gunked up" feel - I'd almost want to call it a "micro-vibration" or possibly just a very acute feeling of the chain interfacing with the teeth?

This a possible symptom of, oh god, official advice about chain length being wrong and that it really should be that extra link shorter? Heck, could it just be a feeling associated to slightly different chaintech? Stock chain was SLX, shop had XTR - the only major difference being the hollow pins, but maybe that creates a resonance?

Probably just that your cassette and chainring are a little worn.

# ¿ Aug 6, 2021 09:47

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Dren posted:

Across the threads. I�ll double check it.

Cheap digital verniers are crap.

kimbo305 posted:

How are you measuring? M4 should be 4mm across the threads. There is an M3.5, but I've never seen one.

M3.5 screws are used in the UK for plug sockets and light switches, and for VW split screen window frames. Ask me how I know, Probably the easiest way to test if it is m5 is to try it in the frame where the water bottle screw in.

# ¿ Aug 16, 2021 11:51

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

So I bought a Power2max NG PowerMeter second hand on eBay. Charged it up installed app and registered it. On my first ride the battery level reported on my Wahoo Elemnt was at 60% this is just after 40 miles. A couple of days later not having charged the app is showing full charge. Both firmware are up to date. Any ideas?

# ¿ Aug 17, 2021 14:32

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

paberu posted:

Have some weird rust develop on my chain after ultrasonic cleaning . I did 2 ultrasonic cleans on a brand new shimano cn-m8100 using Zep citrus cleaner with hot water, followed up by an alcohol rinse/5min soak while I waited for my other chain to wax (91% iso since I can't find mineral spirits and like in CA).

Now it has small red discoloration on many of the plates, not entirely sure what I should do to get that off. I've given it a wax bath in the meantime to seal it up.

Weirdly the other chain (same brand new CN-M8100) but stamped with TF instead of TG didn't discolour and has remained shiny/silver.

Anything I should do to try and clean the rusted up chain? I was thinking of giving it a diluted CLR ultrasonic bath followed by a water rinse and then re waxing.

FYI after I rode my newly waxed chain out side in the rain I came back a couple of days later to find that it had started to rust, now If I ride in the rain I will wipe the chain over with a water displacing spray and a oily rag.

# ¿ Feb 16, 2022 15:53

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

wooger posted:

Hope you don�t mean wd40. Liable to poo poo up any lube.

Just to be clear, I spray the cloth and wipe the chain to disperse dampness, I would never advocate using it as a lubricant.

# ¿ Feb 16, 2022 16:59

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

After my old Wahoo element filled with water I decided to replace it with a Roam. Which I bought new from Ebay I connected it to my phone and set it up. The shut it down and left it to charge, next morning I went to pair it to my powermeters and nothing happend, I put it back on charge and tried to start it back up and now it goes into a boot loop, I googled for a solution and people are saying the power button can stick, so I have spent 30 mins poking and prodding it and left it to discharge overnight. And its still stuck, I contacted the seller and he says he will send a label as the address registered on Ebay is his sisters. Does this sound legit?
Link to youtube video showing boot loop. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wLDUGFhEB0

# ¿ Apr 7, 2022 10:29

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

kimbo305 posted:

Send a return shipping label in the mail? As opposed to through the ebay system for you to print out?

Yes thats right, ebay have sent a label for me to print, but he wants to send me one for a different address.

# ¿ Apr 7, 2022 12:06

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Salt Fish posted:

Trying to get rid of the chain guide/retainer on my 1x10 bike. Is it enough to run a narrow-wide chainring or do I need narrow-wide jockey wheels as well? I'm planning to run a current generation zee 10-speed rear mech with a raceface narrow wide chainring. My force 1x11 rear mech on another bike has the narrow-wide jockey wheels which is what got me thinking about it.

There is no need of narrow-wide pulley wheels.

# ¿ May 1, 2022 17:24

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Is it possible to convert a 142mm thru axle hub to a 145mm qr bike? I have been given a pair of gravel wheels and would like to try a gravel ride on a tandem.

# ¿ Jul 30, 2022 15:07

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

kimbo305 posted:

Hmm, maybe an endcap wouldn't work on the DS side... any extra width would push the cassette further inboard from the designed position.

Thanks for everyone's input. I think it maybe possible for me to make up a spacer to push the freehub and or cassette over to a usable position. Spacing out the disk brake should be relatively easy as it's a 6bolt hub, and there are plenty of boost type spacers available.The wheels are missing the free hub so I am waiting for a new one to arrive.

# ¿ Jul 30, 2022 23:16

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

bicievino posted:

It's not possible, but I have a 145mm tandem disc QR rear wheel I'd sell you for a very reasonable price. DT/Hugi hub, 11spd mtb cassette body, thread-on so you can run either drum or 6bolt disc.

Thanks but the tandem isn't even mine, just piloting it for a friend. I didn't realise DT took over Hugi.

# ¿ Jul 30, 2022 23:24

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Waste of Breath posted:

Does anyone have a video showing normal drivetrain noise for a waxed chain? Single speed/fixed gear if possible, I'm seeing differing opinions online on how quiet they are and since it's the internet at least half of them are idiots and wrong.

I think I'm just hearing the chain mesh with the cog/chainring but some people are claiming quietest drivetrain ever and if you have any noise you did something wrong.

It really depends on how long between waxes and how concentric are your front and rear sprockets and their alignment. The tandem I ride has belt drive between front and rear cranks and thats really smooth.

# ¿ Jul 30, 2022 23:29

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Yeep posted:

poo poo

I thought I'd measured everything and I'd be fine with the steerer length on some eBay forks but it's about a cm short and definitely below the top bolt. I think the seller was a bit generous with his measurements as well. I'm guessing that's too short to ride safely. Are there any cheap fixes or should I go begging for a return?

you could do something like this.
https://www.hambini.com/increasing-the-length-stack-height-of-a-fork-steerer-cut-to-short/

# ¿ Mar 19, 2023 16:09

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 11:07

mikemelbrooks: Jun 11, 2012; One tough badass

Lex Neville posted:

Haha, I was unclear I suppose. I meant: any tips on how to 100%, definitely get them loose without rounding them off? Thanks for the advice re: their suddenly coming loose though, that's good to know

I find it easier to take the crank off. Put a Allen key in a vise and twist the crank, it also allows you to hold the slotted nut easier once the chainring bolt has loosened.

# ¿ Mar 29, 2023 09:32

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > The Great Outdoors > Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread: friction in the front, index the rear

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