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Safety Dance posted:If I have 700x48 tires, am I asking for trouble using a 700x28-35 tube? I carry down a few sizes as a spare for storage size reasons, but for general use I figure stick with the full size tubes. When I use a smaller size it seems to have trouble seating the bead. jamal posted:Yeah that's a bit of a stretch. Tube will probably tear along a "seam" or at the valve stem after awhile. I see what you did here.
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Aug 2, 2020 00:58
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| # ¿ Apr 23, 2024 20:10 |
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And then once it's off never buy a tire that says Continental again
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Aug 2, 2020 15:34
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Also I'd love to hear a good argument for running tires wider than say... 32mm with tubes
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Aug 2, 2020 20:45
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FogHelmut posted:It costs less? Does it? For comparable tires it seems like it's between zero and $15 more for the tubeless ones, plus a bit of sealant. Figure two or three tubes per life of tire puts you almost to the same price? jammyozzy posted:I once ripped open a gravelking SK so badly it wouldn't seal and almost had to put a tube in to ride the two miles home. Sure, but like, a rip that bad would've hosed up any tube, too, maybe too bad to patch/boot?
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Aug 3, 2020 04:03
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FogHelmut posted:Do the rims cost less? Cheaper speced bikes often come with tube rims and tires. I mean technically with enough tape and sealant anything is tubeless. I admit I don't have an encyclopedic knowledge of current lower-end gravel bikes (narrowing to that given the selection of what can clear wider tires), but I checked the bottom-rung Journeyman and it come with tubeless compatible wheels. Good quality tubeless rims and wheelsets are very affordable (just not light), and obviously more expensive than zero dollars for a non-compatible wheelset you already have. I guess I should have put more caveats on my statement? "My bike does not have tubeless compatible wheels rn" obviously counts as a good reason to not run tubeless tires, lol. I suppose I considered that one had the option to do it implicit in my challenge?
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Aug 3, 2020 05:12
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Levitate posted:I’ve done through the stem for years without issues. I end up bending my valve cores while trying to inflate tires before they get clogged or something (I need a new pump) Yeah, this is standard practice. No idea how you could break a valve stem by putting sealant in.
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Aug 4, 2020 06:02
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Naw dude, those tires ain't safe. Might sound crazy but running too-wide tires can actually destroy the bike frame by rubbing through it.
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Aug 9, 2020 07:22
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Cannon_Fodder posted:My rear derailleur wasn't straight so I bent the hanger on the steel frame, tried again. Cold-setting a frame to 130 isn't hard. You can make a jig with twine, two by fours, and a lead plumb. I imagine there are YouTube guides. But, and I say this with only your own health in mind, if your mechanical aptitude doesn't currently include safely tightening your quick release skewer, you might want to have someone who knows what they're doing check what you do before you ride it.
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Aug 17, 2020 22:32
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LUBE UP YOUR BUTT posted:Does this apply to the control version too or just the base corsas? Was actually thinking of getting the controls because the contis are pissing me off. I'm at 1500 mi on my corsa controls (28, tubeless) and haven't had an issue, despite rolling through a fair bit of glass on a regular basis.
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Aug 18, 2020 04:01
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I rotate my tires every ride.
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Aug 18, 2020 06:07
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LUBE UP YOUR BUTT posted:Guessing tubeless makes a bigger difference there than tire brand and make. 90% sure sealant would have sealed all my flats they were that small. I'm considering going tubeless but I've heard it's bad to run TL tires of hooked rims because of the low contact area between the bead and rim? How big a risk is that? I've never heard that as an issue. All my road tubeless wheels are hooked. I'm certainly not qualified to say it's ZERO issue, but I certainly don't think it's a substantial one given how many manufacturers are choosing to make hooked tubeless rims still in 2020. Especially for road tubeless where pressures are a bit higher, I've actually heard the opposite, with hookless rims having a potentially restrictive max tire pressures.
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Aug 18, 2020 15:13
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No, that's enough to see, your rim is hosed. Guess it's time to upgrade from 27" to 700c sooner rather than later. But you shouldn't just replace the rim on that hub. The coolest thing you could do to this bike is buy a modern groupset, like, even 105, modern wheels, and only keep the frame. Would get you a better bike and long term be cheaper than trying to bodge it together. bicievino fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Aug 19, 2020 |
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Aug 19, 2020 15:35
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ExecuDork posted:My plan is to drop in to one of the local bike shops and buy a bunch of replacement cables and the tool(s) needed to do it properly, and talk to them about my 7-vs-5 frankenbike setup. I'm never averse to buying tools I know I'm gonna use at least If you're replacing cables, you should also replace the housing. Bring the old housing in with you and have the shop cut it to length.
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Aug 26, 2020 04:40
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Tigren posted:Bleeding your breaks... Easy enough to figure out in an hour or leave it to the shop? Both are easy but also kinda annoying. You need to buy a bleed kit, which costs more than it should for what it is. If it's SRAM, you need to be cautious about the DOT fluid because it can gently caress up your paint and/or hands (the Shimano mineral oil isn't great for you, but not as bad). I certainly wouldn't roll my eyes at someone saying they just rely on the shop to take care of it.
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Aug 26, 2020 07:13
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e.pilot posted:If you were building up a bike I wouldn’t do HY/RD over a full hydro setup, but if you’ve got mech disc already, the cost and ease of installing HY/RD is 100% worth it. They’re not quite as good as full hydro, but drat if they aren’t close, especially for the price. I dunno. Personally if I have reasonably functioning mechanical discs, I'm not gonna spend $150 (plus new compressionless housing) to swap to something that is only slightly better. I'd rather spend $200-$350 (depending on what group you're matching to - apex 1x is hella cheap, 105 2x is a bit spendy but still quite reasonable) and go all the way.
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Aug 28, 2020 16:48
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Eh, I guess it's more a question of how bad the mech discs are. I've only ever used BB7s (very frustrating, would spend any amount to replace) and Spyres (annoying for the reasons mentioned upthread, but totally functional). I didn't find HY/RDs to be dramatically better than Spyres. Some, but not enough to justify the weird midspot of price for me.
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Aug 28, 2020 17:33
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IMO: lower it a few mm - it should only just barely clear the teeth. Should be angled with the tail of the cage slightly further out, too.
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Sep 22, 2020 17:26
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Anachronist posted:I have a 10 speed SRAM apex crankset and my non drive side crank is loose. I’ve tried tightening it but within a few miles it is a little loose again. I’m tightening the smaller inside bolt as much as I can and then tightening the outside cap against that. Have I wallowed out the splines and it’s done for at this point? Or is there anything I should be doing to get it to stay on and rigid. GXP or BB30? I assume GXP since you say NDS crank. You shouldn't do anything with the outside cap (the 10mm one). You should almost certainly be tightening down the 8mm inside bolt WAY harder than you are. 50Nm is more than you think. If you are tightening it to full spec and it's still coming loose, then yeah the only things that can be wrong are the endcap-bolt or the spindle. Maaybe it'd be having issues if you are a combo where you need the wave washer but aren't using it? I think that's only pressfit GXP. https://www.sram.com/globalassets/d...om-brackets.pdf If the spindle still looks okay, maybe try replacing the endcap-bolt in the NDS crank, but failing that I think it's time to upgrade. bicievino fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Sep 25, 2020 |
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Sep 25, 2020 15:37
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I have an apex gxp crankset on my travel bike, and don't bother with a torque wrench when I travel, I just crank the fucker down like hell.
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Sep 26, 2020 17:36
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vikingstrike posted:I don't think this is true, btw. Connex refers to a type of quick link sold by a specific company. Echoing this.
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Oct 2, 2020 22:09
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There's no rhyme or reason to orange seal
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Oct 3, 2020 05:54
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Indexing, no. For some changes you'll need to adjust the B screw, but for just 2 teeth that's probably unnecessary. I do have to fiddle with it going from 32 to 36.
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Oct 12, 2020 22:41
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spf3million posted:This is what I do. 
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Oct 13, 2020 20:26
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So your saying the phrase "praxis makes perfect" is a lie?
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Oct 16, 2020 06:56
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breaks posted:I'm thinking about buying a Black Mountain Road+ frame and building it up myself. I do most of my own maintenance, I've replaced or installed cassettes, derailleurs, shifters, recabling jobs, poo poo like that, I'm not scared of learning how to do anything I don't know how to do, but having said that I'm fairly inexperienced overall. He sells the frames prepped and with a headset installed if desired which I will, and I'll get the fork cut by some shop locally, but otherwise is there anything that I should be worried about but am too dumb to be thinking of? Facing the bb shell and brake mounts requires specialized tools. Besides that it's all pretty cake.
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Oct 29, 2020 05:40
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Great Enoch posted:I checked the freewheel on your recommendation and then put it back in and realised when I didn't do up my QRs so tightly it affects the binding of the hub. I'm assuming you realize this, but just in case, this means your bearings need to be adjusted. Don't ride with a loose QR.
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Nov 3, 2020 17:07
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Great Enoch posted:Okay, good to know. This is my first bearing cartridge hub (Hope Pro4s) so I don't really know how to adjust them. Yeah, I still have them on fairly tight, but I used to really crank down the QRs hard, which I understand is also not good practice? Oh, that's super weird. I was assuming they were cup & cone bearings. I have hope RS4's, which I think are identical except for the rotor style. If that's the case, the bearings are not adjustable. You might be looking at replacing a bearing, or something else is the issue. I guess everyone has different definitions of "really hard" but I put my QRs as tight as I can without needing a tool to loosen them. For a correctly spaced frame and hub it shouldn't cause any binding in the bearing or freehub body.
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Nov 3, 2020 22:07
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:I'm at my wit's end trying to stop the rear wheel of my road bike from popping tubes since I rebuilt it. It's always on the inside of the rim over a spoke hole. It's a double-walled rim and no spokes are poking out of the holes. I'm at the point where I've wrapped layers of electrical tape over the rim tape and out past the edges just to try and keep it from happening and still in under 10 minutes on the rollers the loving tube pops right against a spoke hole. What on earth do I need to do to just be able to ride my goddamn bicycle? Are you using velox rim tape? If not, why not? All other rim tapes for tubed systems are inferior.
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Nov 4, 2020 01:45
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Can you post a picture of the puncture and the spot on the rim that caused it?
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Nov 4, 2020 02:16
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CopperHound posted:Velox is too thick for some rims. Also, punching the valve hole is a pain if you end up with a roll that doesn't have it prepunched. Weird. Never run in to it being too thick in the narrow size. Or do you mean too thick under the hook for the bead to seat? I use a cheap old soldering iron to burn a hole through it for the valve stem. Same thing I use for tubeless tape.
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Nov 4, 2020 04:15
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kgibson posted:Hey all, I discovered today a hairline crack on my tubeless Mavic Open Pro rim emanating from a spoke/nipple in about 1cm either direction along the rim. My intuition tells me I probably out not to ride the rim at all, but am wondering what you all think. I'm going to have the wheel rebuilt either way with a rim that is hopefully less of a pain in the rear end for tubeless setups (any recommendations?). DT rims are my go-to for high value, reasonably priced alu rims nowadays. Wide range of width and weight options, depending on your needs.
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Nov 4, 2020 18:19
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:This is what punctures always look like: man that is weird as gently caress.
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Nov 5, 2020 03:17
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Might be. I still vote slap a velox strip on there and see if you still have an issue.
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Nov 5, 2020 06:45
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ExecuDork posted:Yes, square-taper. The LBS I prefer assured me they do plenty of old bikes when I first visited them, so I'll check in with them. This might mean I need a new complete bottom bracket, right? We'll see how that fits the budget if so... BB might be fine, crank arm typically fails first.
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Nov 5, 2020 07:32
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If it solves it I have no idea why, but will be happy on your behalf.
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Nov 6, 2020 03:31
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DevCore posted:Oh right, I thought they only made the one - the five rail Front racks are mostly expensive cause they are hype, but not so hype that there's quite the same amount of production as rear racks. Depending on what you want to carry on the front a reasonably priced front rack + wald basket can get you most of the way there for reasonable cost instead of one of the expensive wide pizza racks.
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Dec 15, 2020 01:57
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When it randomly goes to full taco, how annoying is it going to be sitting stranded wherever that happens? P.S. when you replace the rim, don't replace it with a Velocity one, they loving suck! Edit: my theory for the failure: Tubeless beads exert a lot of force on the rim bed, easily enough to drop tension by 20-30kgf. I suspect that the NDS tension on one spoke dropped enough to approach zero, the rim deflected in response, and that cascaded through the rest of the wheel. 50kgf just isn't an acceptable tension before mounting the tire, and the weakass rim bed that makes Velocity shout about max 120kgf is too big a constraint. Sorry that you got suckered by a brand that has been riding a reputation for quality that it hasn't actually had since moving to the US. bicievino fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Dec 23, 2020 |
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Dec 23, 2020 16:53
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Man_of_Teflon posted:Ah man that sucks to hear Velocity has a bad rep. Any favorite wide (25mm or so) touring rims, US built or not? Do you mean 25 internal? That's quite wide for rim brake - I don't think I have any personal experience with that combination. If you didn't need rim brake it'd be a lot easier to find. DT are my current strong preference for "workhorse aluminum rims" - good value, good construction, super easy to build up evenly. Astral are nice but expensive, and fewer choices. Edit: no personal experience with Ryde rims.
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Dec 23, 2020 20:47
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Man_of_Teflon posted:It has proved doable to set up cantis for rim braking on a rim that wide. I would go discs, but I really like my 64cm Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross frame. Please report back about the Rydes if you do try 'em.
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Dec 23, 2020 21:30
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| # ¿ Apr 23, 2024 20:10 |
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:I guess this is a good place to ask as well as the AI thread. No ideas but I've seen wheels that were not separated sufficiently from car exhaust and uhhh they ain't joking around. Err on the side of not just the minimum separation imo...
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Dec 31, 2020 04:10
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