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meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
How important is cone nut preload on cartridge bearings? I'm rebuilding a hub for the first time and have no idea what I'm doing but it's going well.


Also, I assume that if I can turn the big ring on the cassette relative to the little one when it's on the freehub the splines on the freehub are probably trashed, c/d?


It's a sram mth 746 hub btw

meowmeowmeowmeow fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Nov 10, 2020

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meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017

Thom ZombieForm posted:

I purchased a canyon bicycle and am attempting setup. I hit a snag with screwing in the faceplate for the "canyon ahead set" handlebar to the stem. 3 of the 4 screw locations allow for hand tightening the screws, but the top right location is not. I've tried using other screws in that spot and attempted multiple screw in but it requires the torque wrench to get it in, but even then it's a not completely flush. Anything I can do here? I rage quit the process a minute ago as the paste was getting everywhere and it's a very fiddly process

Sounds like the stem was improperly threaded or you cross threaded one of the early attempts and buggered it, but sounds like broken from the start. Any pics of the threaded hole? I assume by paste you mean the carbon assembly paste between bars and stem?

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
Get one with a front bolt and a back bolt, you can adjust angle by tightening or loosening as needed. Nail polish to make a reference line once you have it where you like it so you can find it again if you remove the seat and you don't need indexing.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
What's wrong with torx?

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
I have had the opposite experience wrt hex vs torx and stripping but I use the right size wrench, ball hexes are king for loving fasteners.

Imo if I'm gonna have one drive type on my bike it's gonna be torx.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
Might be corrosion might need new seals, piston retraction comes from the flex in your seals so they might be shot.

Should be easy to open it up and see what's in there, worse case it gets trashed in pieces instead of assembled.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
I would expect if you've ripped the top layer of carbon off or cracked it you should get the frame repaired regardless of if you run another FD, once carbon starts to go it goes quick.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
I have that one too and it's pretty good, not perfect but as good as a friend's parktool stand is

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
Pretty sure the caliper won't care provided your hub has the right mounts.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
Grip glue and safety wire is your friend

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meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017

Residency Evil posted:

I searched through the thread, but couldn't find anything. Is there a thread favorite torque wrench? I bought a park tool beam wrench but not sure I like this style as much as the ratcheting one I have for my car. Looking for something that can do 1-15 nm or so.

edit: other thread likes this one: https://www.tekton.com/1-4-inch-drive-dual-direction-micrometer-torque-wrench-trq21101 ?

I have a bunch of tekon tools and am happy with all of them, including torque wrenches.

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