Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Crumps Brother posted:

The guide brake caliper on my fatty started sticking. I got it replaced and now all is well. If I crack open the original caliper and cleaned out all the corrosion can I hang on to it as a usable spare or is it just shot for good?

FWIW when my (2015) guides started sticking this past fall I had a shop get warranty replacements from SRAM.

If you managed to get warranty replacements without sending in the broken ones, nice, but if you just bought a replacement maybe you could get the broken one turned into a second functioning one by magic of SRAM warranty

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Drill a hole in it

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

DaveSauce posted:

Yeah I know, I'm trying to avoid being that guy who brings in parts, so I was hoping this 3 week thing was somewhat grounded in reality so I could give them the sale after all this back-and-forth, even if it took more like 4-6 weeks.

All that said, how hard is a hydraulic disc brake install? About the only thing I'm not comfortable with is dealing with actual fluid fill/bleed portion of it. I'm sure I could do it if I had time to sit and fiddle with it, but that is one of the things I'm lacking these days.

I've installed two sets of XT brakes on bikes in the last year. One came with the lever and caliper not yet connected, and the other was fully assembled already. In both cases, they were pre-bled, but I had to cut the hose and connect the brake levers. It was not particularly challenging, and in both cases I managed to avoid losing enough fluid to need a bleed afterwards. YMMV of course, but I'd suggest just getting the brakes however you can get them. Try the install, and if you need someone to bleed them for you afterwards if you don't want to / feel comfortable doing it yourself, then go ahead.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

TobinHatesYou posted:

SRAM loves Torx, that's why. Torx caliper mount bolts. Torx stem bolts. Torx everything.

Excuse me I thought that we established that they are stem screws

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

I personally can’t wait until electronic shifting is not only universal, but leveraged to make shifting automatic so that I no longer have to hear or see “brifter”

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

I had guide RSC brakes that came stock on a 2015 5010, they were totally fine until one of them locked up (lever, I believe) in 2020. SRAM replaced it under warranty.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

They were removing the dork disc? Which is, you know, behind the cassette. This is a pretty common thing on DT Swiss hubs and people manage to not somehow throw their entire axle into the bushes.

The dork disc removal was just the context behind why he was removing the wheel, and actually not really relevant. The question arose because (as described, any way) the cassette came off, with the freehub body, as soon as the wheel was removed from the bike. Not, say, after using a tool to remove the securely attached cassette.

Steve French fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Mar 7, 2023

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

SimonSays posted:

Fine but these arguments never go anywhere and come up regularly hence "this is bait": tubeless is a fad because it's pointless for most riders (like most so-called improvements to bikes where you need to buy a new frame or wheelset or transmission to take advantage of it), it makes a simple five-minute tube replacement into a gross mess of cleaning up the gunk when you do wind up needing an emergency tube, and it's more expensive to do right than tubes.

If you're mountain biking in thorn country go tubeless, that's what it's for, but most people are perfectly well served by using tubes and the appropriate tires for the riding they do.

No, this is bait.

But I’ll take it anyway. Thorns are not even close to the top of the list of reasons I ride tubeless on my mountain bikes (and gravel bikes. I don’t have a road bike so can’t speak to that). At or near the top is the fact that it makes for much much greater resistance to pinch flats, which then allows for lower tire pressure and better grip and handling.

Is riding with tubes fine? Yeah, sure, in the same way that riding with a triple or no dropper post is fine. But riding tubeless (for dirt, at least) is better. Or at least worth trying. Just because it’s totally fine to do your thing and forego an improvement in technology/gear doesn’t mean it’s not an improvement.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply