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Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
What do you guys think? Scotch tape or maybe some kind of glue?



:thunk:

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Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
There's definitely a huge gap between kids "bmx bikes", low end bmx completes in the 200-500 dollar range, and then the pro level stuff. I think part of it is that if you ride bmx as a serious sport the bikes are mechanically simple enough that you're probably not going to need a shop very often.

Salt Fish fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Jul 30, 2020

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Did you drink a beer? One beer per rim.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Post the exact model you have as GT makes a huge range of bikes.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

Levitate posted:

Why do you need 36 spokes

36 spokes isn't necessary for every application, but if you're not worried about being fast and you might load your bike with 300 lbs or jump it more than a foot off the ground, you might as well go for it.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I just capped a cable end the other day using heat-shrink tubing for electronics. Hasn't frayed yet. I tried solder once and it didn't work out but I might have just needed more flux.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
The guy I get spokes from won't let you do the math. He has a strict 'I-cut = I-measure' policy and I can imagine all the fun mistakes that led to him having to do that.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

Feels Villeneuve posted:

is "eyeballing" seriously loose spoke tension to get a wheel like 80% in true likely to cause serious issues, or should I just LBS it

(old 36 spoke aluminum rum)

Try to measure how far off true the wheel is in mm or inches for a better answer, but basically go ride it carefully for a bit and check it again for any changes. A spoke thats working properly shouldn't loosen noticeably over one ride. If it stays tight then I'd ride it again, but I'd be checking it now and then to make sure. Mark the problem spoke with tape or something so you can find it.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I broke 3 bikes today. Bike 1: broken retaining pin on my brake pad caused me to lose the pad on a bunny hop. Bike 2: shifting cable is toast, needs to be totally replaced. Bike 3: cased a parking barrier while trying to jump it got a flat and an out of true rim.

I'm dangerously low on bikes now, only 3 left in working order so hopefully I can get my parts in soon.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

Time posted:

I’m building a bike from the frame up and have never done anything like this before. What tools am I going to need for this? Is this a bad question without knowing the specific frame and parts?

Mostly you're going to want a good cable cutter, a set of metric hex wrenches, a chain breaker, and some way of getting bearings into the frame depending on the parts you're getting.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
This is why I don't bring my bikes to shops anymore. This cable was ran by a mechanic who I know has 10 years of experience



There's a groove in the body of the shifter for the cable and they just ran the cable outside of it. It's a covered groove which means I can't just move it there by hand but I have to undo the cable first. I don't know if this is the source of my trouble with shifting but I'm pretty sure its not helping.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Excellent point that it could have been running on top of the channel and then suddenly popped off. I can see how that would be easy to miss; it doesn't really need to be covered. I rerouted the cable and it's fixed now, and come to think of it I had a different shop run my drive train through an ultrasonic cleaner and that might have been where the problem was introduced.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
The first bike I built from parts I made a spreadsheet of every penny that went into it and I still have it. Sometimes I look at it and flinch but it was mostly worth it...

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

VelociBacon posted:

Ultimately if you're happy with a new drivetrain that's great but this does feel a little like upselling, I don't see how even a super lovely worn out drivetrain would be 'unsafe'. Was your chain skipping all over the place before?

I've crashed from this. High torque during shifting, chain pops off, foot slips, eat pavement.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
You didn't mention a budget so DT Swiss TK540.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I've heard of riders using slime in their tubes in areas where goat heads weed is all over the place for what its worth. (in bmx)

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

100YrsofAttitude posted:

Weird but probably common enough problem, I figure:

The back brake, right-hand brake, of one our bikes (v-brakes), doesn't go all the way back to its original position after braking. So we can brake, but then we have to push it back to the original position because otherwise it just kinda sticks halfway, and brakes still at that point, though poorly.

Any ideas where to start with such a problem? I'd have to assume it's something with the cable but yeah.

I would start with checking for over tightened bolts, then for a cable thats pinched or too sharply curved.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
No shame in going to the shop then. Brakes aren't that complicated really, but they require a very complete understanding of how they work before making changes. The wrong fix can really complicate things quickly which is frustrating, and believe me that everyone has been there.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb



Holy moly look at this bike

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I have that exact stand and while it's excellent in holding the bike up why on earth doesn't it come with a more useful tool/small part holder? Probably an aftermarket upgrade they want to sell.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I don't know where you can get one but this is basically the reason 3d printers were invented.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

Al2001 posted:

Well, no need for these any more *chops off thumb and index finger*

You just saved way more than the 5 extra grams from the tubilito pnes chip.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Jobst Brandt says: "Tensioning spokes can be dangerous. A spoke can rupture under tension and shoot from the rim, like an arrow from a crossbow, into your eye. "

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I have TI hub bolts on one BMX bike and they are such a pain in the rear end. I never tried real TI anti-seize but with grease on the washer face the TI washer and bolt face weld together and no matter how carefully you torque them on you have to put your full body weight into getting them off.

Just interacting with those 4 bolts put me off the idea of a TI frame forever. I'll take the extra 2 pounds and use steel.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

I just learned about huge bmx bikes because there's a local handful of sketchy lookin dudes that ride them through traffic around my town doing wheelies and being hooligans. Are there events in the bmx world that actually call for 29ers or is it just a fun thing?

BMX events are 20 and 24" with 24s being old dudes racing basically and everything else is 20", with a special shout out to 22" for people that are 7 feet tall and don't care about never finding parts.

26" and up are for vanity bikes and it's pretty much a California thing. Notably SE Bikes make them and have sponsored riders like Marshawn Lynch who promote basically sidewalk cruising and parade related show bike stuff.

It's pretty cool if you like bikes imo

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I got my old schwinn le tour III from my parents house and I'm thinking about fixing it up. I rode this bike 10,000+ miles a year for like 5-7 years or something so it has sentimental value. I think its so cool to have it in my garage again after a decade without it. A friend's mom was the original owner and its actually in very good condition for how much its been though.

The frame and its missing some paint . There is a tiny amount of surface rust in some small patches, especially on the chain stay, but nothing too bad. I briefly though about getting it powder coated and then I found replica stickers, but the more I think about it I'm leaning towards just touch up paint that's close enough and then spraying the whole thing with clear coat. Any ideas? I'm not sure how careful I'd have to be with spay can clear coat or what pitfalls I might run into, what surface prep I might need or what products could work well.

Maybe I could do touch up paint and just skip clear coat? Are there products that would hold up and not flake off? What about just clear coat stickers? Might look pretty dumb if I do it wrong.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

Wear the best respirator you can get your hands on.

Good news, I post in cspam.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

Planet X posted:

It may be just a loose crank arm that's settled in, or the bottom bracket (the things the crankset fit into). You do not grease crankarms to the bottom bracket. I will let other posters chime in here, but the easiest thing to do here is to just take it to the shop and let them tighten things up. With that said, you could get the tools to do it yourself, but it may not be worth the trouble.

I dunno if this is BXM specific but sometimes creaky cranks can enjoy grease on the crank arm splines.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb


I assume this is a total loss for this wheel? It's off a 70s schwinn le tour III front wheel, is it possible to find a replacement cone that would fit? The hub shell races have some discoloration but are functional I think.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
45 years old, 3 owners, approx 20,000 miles, it's back from the dead:



White bar tape I had sitting around, that's a downhill/dirt jump seat. It now has a 6 speed cassette because that's all I could find but it all works.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I have buttitis.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Does it count if I put my chain in a tuperware container and shake it while yelling ULT-T-T-T-TRA S-O-O-O-O-O-O-N-IC!!!!!

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
The way I learned is to use a pedal wrench as a lever between the seat stay bridge and the tire. You just wedge it in there and push on the wrench while you tighten the bolts with the other hand.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

eSporks posted:

2) I like to use the handle of hammer, pedal wrench, etc. Stick it in between the tire and seatstay bridge then use it as a lever to push the wheel back.

This has to be a BMX thing based on the two people in this thread pointing it out.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Replacing a brake cable on a vintage schwinn, I have mountain bike brake cable on hand and it has the barrel style ends. The brake levers have a slotted swivel type drum designed to entrap a pear-shape cable end. I figured out I could just flip the swivel upside down and use the barrel end cable. Is this dangerous? Anyone else done this before? It seems to work pretty good, but also I'm aware that if it slips I'm probably getting hit by a car.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

Bunny Fiesta posted:

Is this something you just get over, or do you look at stories like VideoGameVet above and just think that at the very least you cared about doing the maintenance right more than someone at a bike store who did it as one of the hundred bikes they worked on that day?

You can't learn how things really work without breaking them. The process of loving up, feeling stressed, being mad at yourself, figuring it out, getting it working... it takes a little bit to pay off, but yeah that's a universal experience.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I don't but shout outs to wera brand hex wrenches.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Slightly off topic but very cool how latex solvent mixes can fix tire leaks:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DO-l1zaSJvk

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

Levitate posted:

IMO in person versus buying online kind of comes down to availability and your budget.

Buying online from a big retailer like competitive cyclist can be cheaper and they might have stuff in stock that local shops don't, but if all else is equal then it's nice to buy local IMO

Just don't go into a shop and ask if they can price match an online retailer

Yeah, 3 dollars a foot for cable housing is worth in for the in-person touch.

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Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Trying to get rid of the chain guide/retainer on my 1x10 bike. Is it enough to run a narrow-wide chainring or do I need narrow-wide jockey wheels as well? I'm planning to run a current generation zee 10-speed rear mech with a raceface narrow wide chainring. My force 1x11 rear mech on another bike has the narrow-wide jockey wheels which is what got me thinking about it.

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