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Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


I'm not both-sides-ing here. N8r's been warned. If he wants to keep being lovely, I'll escalate.

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Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

After you dispose of the body, I want his watch.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


You have dibs.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.





Fun Shoe

Cool. Real cool. gatekeeping abelist hobbies make it better for everyone. Might I suggest amateur radio next?

Seriously, fuckoff with that poo poo.

Blacknose
Jul 28, 2006

Meet frustration face to face
A point of view creates more waves
So lose some sleep and say you tried


Safety Dance posted:

I'm not both-sides-ing here.

Safety Dance posted:

I'm gonna go with "knock if off, both of you".


Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

cursedshitbox posted:

Cool. Real cool. gatekeeping abelist hobbies make it better for everyone. Might I suggest amateur radio next?

Seriously, fuckoff with that poo poo.

What's an abelist hobby?

or is being abelist the hobby?

or has this all been pretty settled now?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!



N8r was being lovely. PooPooMcNotme was dragging in screenshots from off-site. Both people are wrong. That's why I told them to stop it.

Someone PM'd me and was like "you know that's perma-banned user eyebeem's parachute account, right?" I didn't, so that's why PooPooMcNotme got a sixer and a request for perma-ban.

N8r hasn't said anything else, and if he continues to be cool, that's fine by me. I don't want to be heavy handed, but being an ableist jerk is unequivocally wrong here.

Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Apr 30, 2021

Blacknose
Jul 28, 2006

Meet frustration face to face
A point of view creates more waves
So lose some sleep and say you tried


Is using language like 'r****d' being cool? Just want to double check.

paperwind
Sep 5, 2006
Cunning Linguist

Safety Dance posted:

I'm not both-sides-ing here. N8r's been warned. If he wants to keep being lovely, I'll escalate.

You can't even call out his offense directly? He was just being "lovely"? Nevermind how pathetic a mere warning is in this situation (I'm sure bad ableist poster has totally learned his lesson and won't bring similar toxicity into this community again), you literally can't yourself call what n8r posted ableist.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Blacknose posted:

Is using language like 'r****d' being cool? Just want to double check.


Please stop being obtuse. I invite you to PM me with constructive criticism.

Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Apr 30, 2021

Blacknose
Jul 28, 2006

Meet frustration face to face
A point of view creates more waves
So lose some sleep and say you tried


Get off the fence mate.

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004



Fun Shoe

maybe stop pretending like ableism and dragging offsite poo poo into the forums are two sides of one issue rather than independently bad things

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015



I'm unironically actually surprised that ebike mod isn't more tuned in to how baseline lovely bike culture is about ableism, which is why this is getting such a harsh reaction.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


bicievino posted:

I'm unironically actually surprised that ebike mod isn't more tuned in to how baseline lovely bike culture is about ableism, which is why this is getting such a harsh reaction.

Criticism accepted.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I lubed my bike up yesterday. It felt like the bearing in the bottom bracket might be messed up. Just felt weird rolling it around. I assume if things are not feeling right next step is to replace?

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015



spwrozek posted:

I lubed my bike up yesterday. It felt like the bearing in the bottom bracket might be messed up. Just felt weird rolling it around. I assume if things are not feeling right next step is to replace?

Can't tell from your description, but if you didn't already I'd suggest popping the cranks to actually feel the bearings. It's surprisingly hard to isolate where "things feel wrong" is coming from in a drivetrain.

But yes, if it is lovely, most bb's are pretty cheap and easy to replace.

rngd in the womb
Oct 13, 2009



Yam Slacker

jesus WEP posted:

maybe stop pretending like ableism and dragging offsite poo poo into the forums are two sides of one issue rather than independently bad things

This is a weird position to have, IMO. Be cool and don't alienate anyone everywhere you go?

If you're acting prejudiced and saying prejudiced things publicly, of course your poo poo will follow you. Take the time to look internally and figure out how to be less of a shithead. Recognize your mistakes, apologize, move on from it and start putting in the effort to be less of a prejudiced person everywhere. It's not hard to understand.

spwrozek posted:

I lubed my bike up yesterday. It felt like the bearing in the bottom bracket might be messed up. Just felt weird rolling it around. I assume if things are not feeling right next step is to replace?

In what way does it feel weird? Is there some kind of resistance while pedaling?

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017


Just take the chain off to do a check, no need to pull cranks imo.

and unless you got a $$$ BB just replace the whole thing vs the bearings, save time and effort and a lot of hunting unless you can get the bearings real easy.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015



meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

Just take the chain off to do a check, no need to pull cranks imo.

and unless you got a $$$ BB just replace the whole thing vs the bearings, save time and effort and a lot of hunting unless you can get the bearings real easy.

Yeah that's fair. I guess the only thing you get from pulling the cranks is you can discern if there's a pre-load issue, but if it's just roughness you're spot on you'll be able to feel that by just poppin' the chain off.

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

spwrozek posted:

I lubed my bike up yesterday. It felt like the bearing in the bottom bracket might be messed up. Just felt weird rolling it around. I assume if things are not feeling right next step is to replace?

I was chasing ghosts for a while on a BB.

Turned out it was a pedal bearing causing the issue and I wasted a whole lot of time on it.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Yeah, I had the cranks off to clean and lube. I was getting a click from the BB while pedaling. So I figure clean and lube was step one. I was just spinning the bearing with my finger and just felt like it had a little play in it or something, hard to explain. I will see ohw the clean and lube works and go from there.


Cannon_Fodder posted:

I was chasing ghosts for a while on a BB.

Turned out it was a pedal bearing causing the issue and I wasted a whole lot of time on it.

I was going to pull the pedals and check those out next....

Dren
Jan 5, 2001



Pillbug

n8r posted:

Riding one flat one clip is stupid.

Are you riding with a real flat pedal mtb shoe now? If not try that first.

If you were a person with no disabilities complaining about feet rattling off Iíd say itís bad technique. Given your issues maybe you get a little slack, but honestly this is likely a technique issue. Work on good body position and being in that attack position. If you donít absorb bumps with your legs youíll rattle off pedals regardless of disabilities.

Honest question here, how was this post ableist? We do not know the extent of Voodoofly's disability. Improving technique could be a viable option for him that he should check out in addition to changing pedals.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017


spwrozek posted:

Yeah, I had the cranks off to clean and lube. I was getting a click from the BB while pedaling. So I figure clean and lube was step one. I was just spinning the bearing with my finger and just felt like it had a little play in it or something, hard to explain. I will see ohw the clean and lube works and go from there.


I was going to pull the pedals and check those out next....

Most bearings need some level of preload to feel good, if there's a bit of play but it's not notchy or gritty it might be ok but need to have cranks on to feel good.

Development
Jun 2, 2016



Dren posted:

Honest question here, how was this post ableist? We do not know the extent of Voodoofly's disability. Improving technique could be a viable option for him that he should check out in addition to changing pedals.


he said what it was in this thread?

Voodoofly posted:

This is going to be a strange question but does anyone know of any system where you can lock the crank/pedals from spinning backwards? Basically a coaster break style that doesnít actually break.

Iím basically riding e-mtb one legged because of spinal and nerve issues. My right leg is not strong enough for me to stand on the pedals without all my weight on the left pedal with the crank arms at 6 and 12. Iím also not strong enough to pedal standing because my right leg canít press the pedal down while standing.

Which means Iím going on beginner single tracks mostly in the saddle or, if itís clean enough, standing but my left foot all the way down. Iím sure if I do this enough Iíll break my foot or something worse. Riding in the saddle also has issues with balance and even just keeping my right leg on the pedal if I hit a big bump.

However my left leg is more than strong enough to support me standing up, hence Iím wondering if there is any way to get something (hopefully that I can activate and deactivate) that would allow me to lock the pedals at 3 and 9 when I press backwards on them.

I have zero idea if this is feasible or would exist in any fashion, but gently caress I want to ride cool trails despite my limitations. Preferably without breaking my foot.

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain

Development posted:

he said what it was in this thread?

And to extend on this, what he is describing means that he can't weight his feet in a manner for MTB flat shoes and pedals to work their best. You can have all of the pins and grippy rubber in the world, but an unweighted foot will still flop around. What is one way to keep an unweighted foot on a pedal? You guessed it: a clipless pedal. So replying to him that "he's doing it wrong" and being dismissive of a workaround that could possible work for him is lovely, especially in a sport where there are lots of barriers for people who don't fit the normal, typical look to feel comfortable.

Dren
Jan 5, 2001



Pillbug

Alright, fair enough.

It sounds like he'll still have problems with clipless. He won't be able to get out of the saddle without risking knocking his left foot off of something because he won't be able to stand with the cranks at 3 and 9. He could potentially stay in saddle without having his foot rattled off the pedals, so that's something. The game changer for him would be something that lets him lock the pedals at 3 and 9 like he was asking for because then he could get out of the saddle on descents. Obviously, getting stronger would take care of that but if that's not an option something mechanical could work.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009



spwrozek posted:

Yeah, I had the cranks off to clean and lube. I was getting a click from the BB while pedaling. So I figure clean and lube was step one. I was just spinning the bearing with my finger and just felt like it had a little play in it or something, hard to explain. I will see ohw the clean and lube works and go from there.

Just chiming in to say don't be surprised if that click is from something completely different. It's harder to find the source of clicks while pedalling than basically anything in the world and this occasionally turns out to be from a headset, chainring bolts, seatpost/seat interface, etc.

Doesn't hurt to replace the BB if it's not a super expensive one and to keep the old one as a spare.

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain

Dren posted:

Alright, fair enough.

It sounds like he'll still have problems with clipless. He won't be able to get out of the saddle without risking knocking his left foot off of something because he won't be able to stand with the cranks at 3 and 9. He could potentially stay in saddle without having his foot rattled off the pedals, so that's something. The game changer for him would be something that lets him lock the pedals at 3 and 9 like he was asking for because then he could get out of the saddle on descents. Obviously, getting stronger would take care of that but if that's not an option something mechanical could work.

Yeah, I agree with you that clipless might introduce a different set of problems and might not solve it. Worth a shot I'd say to see if the gains are worth the trade-offs.

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Guess he'll have to and experiment!

Half the fun of bikes!

h3r0n
Dec 22, 2005






What about freestyle pegs on the cranks? It would (I think) provide a solid platform, but if there was a need for a quick ratchet pedal there could be issues.

PuErhTeabag
Sep 2, 2018


VelociBacon posted:

Just chiming in to say don't be surprised if that click is from something completely different. It's harder to find the source of clicks while pedalling than basically anything in the world and this occasionally turns out to be from a headset, chainring bolts, seatpost/seat interface, etc.

Doesn't hurt to replace the BB if it's not a super expensive one and to keep the old one as a spare.

True. I once had a clicky creak that was from a loose chainring bolt.

mashed_penguin
Jul 27, 2004



I recently had creaks that I was sure were coming form either my headset or BB. Turned out it was suspension pivot bolts. One thing that helped was flexing the bike sideways with my foot by pushing the pedal inwards while off the bike. Made it pretty obvious it was coming from the pivots in that case. After greasing them all it is gloriously quiet.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



VelociBacon posted:

Just chiming in to say don't be surprised if that click is from something completely different. It's harder to find the source of clicks while pedalling than basically anything in the world and this occasionally turns out to be from a headset, chainring bolts, seatpost/seat interface, etc.

Doesn't hurt to replace the BB if it's not a super expensive one and to keep the old one as a spare.

Oh for sure. I am chasing it down. It is just completely consistent at the bottom of every pedal stroke. I am looking everywhere though.

E: If I am honest I only really posted this to try to stop the terrible derail that was happening. A bit of advice is a nice benefit though.

spwrozek fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Apr 30, 2021

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015



spwrozek posted:

Oh for sure. I am chasing it down. It is just completely consistent at the bottom of every pedal stroke. I am looking everywhere though.

E: If I am honest I only really posted this to try to stop the terrible derail that was happening. A bit of advice is a nice benefit though.

Thanks for helping the thread get its bearings

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain

mashed_penguin posted:

I recently had creaks that I was sure were coming form either my headset or BB. Turned out it was suspension pivot bolts. One thing that helped was flexing the bike sideways with my foot by pushing the pedal inwards while off the bike. Made it pretty obvious it was coming from the pivots in that case. After greasing them all it is gloriously quiet.

One thing I learned how to do this winter was take apart my rear linkages to grease/service/clean them. Everything felt so good and quiet afterward. Thankfully Santa Cruz has great diagrams on their website to follow with torques needed.

Random, but learning to do basic service on shocks and forks isn't too hard (but does take a little time the first go around). If anyone is looking for a pretty straightforward maintenance thing to learn, I'd recommend this.

mashed_penguin
Jul 27, 2004



vikingstrike posted:

Random, but learning to do basic service on shocks and forks isn't too hard (but does take a little time the first go around). If anyone is looking for a pretty straightforward maintenance thing to learn, I'd recommend this.

Yeah absolutely. I did a lowers service for the first time recently and it was pretty easy. I'm currently in the process of putting new tubless tires on for the first time and a longer dropper. My bike is spending more time in pieces at the moment than together

mexecan
Jul 10, 2006


Re: Previous folks waiting for Ripley AFs. I grabbed one at the start of April. Iíve since put about 250km on it.

Overall, Iím really happy with the bike and itís a great value. I came from a 2018 Stumpjumper and wanted something a bit more efficient and more XC/light trail/downcountry/whatever-is-your-preferred-nomenclature oriented. This bike does that for me.

A few things of note:

- mine came with SLX cranks rather than the Deore spec indicated on the Ibis site. Small but welcome surprise.

- Similarly, it came with a DHF/DHR tire setup, instead of Assegaiís, which works well for me.

- OEM dropper lever is garbage. First thing to go. I replaced it with a oneup lever and itís a major improvement. I also found that the cable itself was pretty short. Iíve talked to other tall riders with L/XL Ibis bikes and they had the same issue.

- brakes are not so good. As noted, Iím tall and ~200 lbs. I find the 2 piston Deore brakes do not hold up well on anything steep and lengthy. Someone lighter and better at brake modulation might be okay with them.

Iím reading about replacement pads for the stock resin pads it came with. Apparently Deore 6100 is resin pad compatible only though? Thoughts? What causes the limitation here?

Ableism can get hosed. TY.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015



vikingstrike posted:

One thing I learned how to do this winter was take apart my rear linkages to grease/service/clean them. Everything felt so good and quiet afterward. Thankfully Santa Cruz has great diagrams on their website to follow with torques needed.

Random, but learning to do basic service on shocks and forks isn't too hard (but does take a little time the first go around). If anyone is looking for a pretty straightforward maintenance thing to learn, I'd recommend this.

This is interesting.
I had kinda written all mtb-suspension-related service as something I didn't want to gently caress with learning.
What's the cutoff of easy vs. not worth?

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENI»RE IN ME


mexecan posted:

Iím reading about replacement pads for the stock resin pads it came with. Apparently Deore 6100 is resin pad compatible only though? Thoughts? What causes the limitation here?

I don't think that it's the caliper that's resin pad only, it's the rotor's that are marked as "recommended". If you look at the spec sheet for it on Shimano's site it does have this listed for pads:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/deore-m6100/BR-M6100.html

Pad_Option G04S Metal
Pad_Standard G03S Resin | J03A Resin

But at the top you see "Remarks: * Resin pad compatible only"

however if you keep looking down the sheet there is:

Recommended disc brake rotor SM-RT54* SM-RT56* SM-RT64 SM-RT66

So the * is indicating that those rotors are resin pad only.
Check the rotors it has and see how that goes, otherwise you could just replace them as well.

But beyond that I've heard you can use metal pads with those rotors anyways but they will wear faster, but don't rely on me for that info/assurance

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Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENI»RE IN ME


bicievino posted:

This is interesting.
I had kinda written all mtb-suspension-related service as something I didn't want to gently caress with learning.
What's the cutoff of easy vs. not worth?

damper rebuilds seem like a pain, same with some of the air spring stuff that requires a blow torch to remove things. But cleaning and changing the oil in the lowers and doing an air can clean and relube isn't bad if you're OK with working on bikes.
Basically have to spend some on materials (the replacement seals, oil for the fork but you'll get enough to do many services with it, and a seal driver) but it will set you up to be able to do more services in the future. So like, $150 for stuff to do the fork and shock but more than half of that is just stuff you'll not have to spend money on again anytime soon?

Then it's just taking something apart and putting it back together, nothing really tricky, lots of youtube videos and stuff on how to do it. Always takes longer than you think it will though.

Granted this is for doing Fox stuff, I'm not sure about RockShock

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