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Aphex- posted:Had a great challenging ride yesterday, tackled a LOT of very steep stuff as well as a few big chutes like this one: just send it, OP
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Mar 1, 2021 15:03
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i was thinking about riding with the local club if they wore masks but of course they don’t
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Mar 24, 2021 13:37
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rockcity posted:loving Florida... I bought an ottolock hexband which seems fit for purpose for looping through stuff and stopping crimes of opportunity.
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Mar 24, 2021 16:13
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I haven’t tried adjusting tension on my clipless but I did shim one of the cleats, which made it a billion times easier to unclip.
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Apr 29, 2021 15:58
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jesus WEP posted:maybe also don’t drag offsite poo poo into the thread though ^^^^
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Apr 30, 2021 16:30
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n8r posted:Riding one flat one clip is stupid. Honest question here, how was this post ableist? We do not know the extent of Voodoofly's disability. Improving technique could be a viable option for him that he should check out in addition to changing pedals.
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Apr 30, 2021 19:12
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Alright, fair enough. It sounds like he'll still have problems with clipless. He won't be able to get out of the saddle without risking knocking his left foot off of something because he won't be able to stand with the cranks at 3 and 9. He could potentially stay in saddle without having his foot rattled off the pedals, so that's something. The game changer for him would be something that lets him lock the pedals at 3 and 9 like he was asking for because then he could get out of the saddle on descents. Obviously, getting stronger would take care of that but if that's not an option something mechanical could work.
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Apr 30, 2021 19:40
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Voodoofly posted:I have no idea if this would work but I’m sure as hell asking the LBS about it next time I’m there. all the poo poo about ableism aside, is “git gud” an option for you? you said your leg is a bummer, is it possible it could get strong enough to hold your weight or is a mechanical solution needed? cuz if so you’re probably better off talking to a dr than asking for help here
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May 1, 2021 02:51
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I worry about disabling backpedaling because I backpedal to avoid roots and rocks. A concern with the brake based solution is that it must not restrict the ability to grab the actual brake at the same time. The pegs sound good because they’d keep your weight and balance centered over the BB, something a 3 or 9 pedal position does not allow but obviously you can’t pedal while they are in. Now I am imagining special cranks that somehow allow the pedal to lock at either the BB or the end of the crank that can be somehow switched between those positions while riding.
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May 1, 2021 12:54
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I bought a pnw cascade dropper + loam lever and installed them today. The cable frayed when attaching it to the lever which pissed me off but I got it working anyway. Got the bike to the trail and the post was stuck dropped. I figured it had to be the frayed cable so I went to the LBS, got a new cable, and installed it. Still no dice. Turns out the nylon cable in the upper actuator detached. I tried to get it back on but had problems. Pretty pissed at this thing for failing so quickly.
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May 2, 2021 02:28
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I recently got a PNW that broke shortly after I installed it (the nylon cable broke) but they fixed it for me pretty quickly under warranty and now it works great. So if they’re in stock get one of those maybe? And the loam lever came in a color that matches my paint.
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Jun 5, 2021 04:07
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Cuntpunch posted:Noted later in the replies - they goofed on chain length - nothing critical - but definitely wrong. Given it was a link short - I chalked that up to an "Oops, using 1x11 measurements instead of the 1x12 measurement" mistake. I'm unclear on why you think the chain length is wrong. If you're having rough shifting with the clutch off because the chain is effectively longer maybe something else is wrong besides chain length. Cuntpunch posted:There's a lot of bits and bobs to go over, and I'd hardly expect them to go over most generalized service concerns like turning off the rear mech clutch, lever bleeding, or any such thing. Any more than a car dealership stopping to explicitly teach replacing a spark plug. Mostly a "right-and-tight at purchase, there's a service schedule in the manual - including some self-service like cleaning and lubricating the chain." If your expectation is not to hear all the details about the bike why are you going to email them about the clutch?
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Aug 13, 2021 16:14
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He posted about the problem with the chain in the maintenance thread starting here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3933901&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=46#post516735615 To sum up: * He got a new chain for unspecified reasons. He sized it using the instructions from the Shimano dealer's manual and got a result that was 4 links longer than the old chain he removed. He said there was some slack in the new chain when on big/big. * Tobin told him there shouldn't be any slack on big/big. He appears to have not taken this advice into consideration. * He destroyed his chain while trying to install it then got a new chain. We do not know how he sized the new chain. * With the new chain and the clutch off he says "Excepting the fact that I've had some really rough shifts since adding that extra link of slack to the chain, which have also now gone away under identical conditions, sure. It's also pleasantly less noisy." * He believes the shop messed up the original chain length by a link. To which I say, are you sure the shop sized your chain wrong by one link too many? cuz it sounds like if you took a link out your problems with rough shifting would go away.
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Aug 13, 2021 19:03
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| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 07:20 |
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You can get a setback seatpost to go back even further but I do not recommend it till you sort your pain issue out.
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Aug 16, 2021 00:59
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