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n8r posted:I knew ski patrollers that did suspenders for their fanny packs (that’s the real name let’s be honest) and they liked it. I tried out the Patagonia fanny pack and just found it way too tight/bouncy when really loaded with water. Typically I do rides that I can do with a bottle and no pack, or I want 3L. You just can’t carry that much weight on a fanny pack. Yeah fanny packs work best with 1.5l or less I find. Bulking them up with big loads doesn't work well. I'd say I get half a day or a big more out if one before I need to refill. Pairing with a bottle in the frame is the way to go to get more.
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Nov 19, 2020 12:29
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Only if you have 0 kidneys left after.
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Apr 4, 2021 14:53
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Im going with yes - looks like you are missing the preload nut. Probably wont be an issue right now - but it might work loose over time.
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Apr 17, 2021 21:24
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Voodoofly posted:It won’t ever get stronger. The doctors had to sever my right L3 and L4 periphery nerves at the base of the spine. So there isn’t a nerve to fire the muscles those nerves used to feed and therefore no way to make those muscles grow. Like I can learn to cheat things and maybe some of the nerves that still work can remap to cover other things but it’s been 12 years my quad is never magically coming back to even 20% strength. I have a friend with Muscular dystrophy which has been pretty severe most of his life - He managed things just fine - does a lot of running and climbing - but its quite hard when it comes to communicating certain movements for climbing techniques. I think a few of us probably dont quite understand how this sort of how muscle weakness works and how it might affect ergonomics in a bike. If you have a weakness in one leg and have one leg in front of the other(3 and 9 oclock) then its going to be quite hard to 'git gud' past the issue. I think you'll find the strong leg being bent and loaded a lot which will be tough to maintain - a lot of mountain biking on tough terrain is about conserving energy and not burning out quickly. Having the pedals at 12 and 6 will result in a seesaw effect and wont feel stable. Someone mentioned something about stunt pegs in the centre of bottom bracket position - i think thats a great place to start thinking about things. That way you can keep your legs inline with each other and can adopt a heels down/straighter leg attack position. What about a system where you pedal to the top of a hill or trail and then put in stunt pegs for the descent? You could also see if there is a way to mod the bike so you can get pedal assist without pedalling(if thats possible). Just some ideas - hope it helps. BTW - does anyone have opinions on Assegai comared to minion DHF as a front tyre (on an enduro bike)- currently running minion DD WT 2.5 and the side knobbys are on the way out, so im thinking of replacing it. Ive been quite happy the past 3 years running minion DHF/DHR2 combo, but amlooking for options or other recomanded combos worth considering. Conditions i ride in are mixed(dry, wet, mud, rock, roots) so i dont think the maxxis semi slick options will be useful. numptyboy fucked around with this message at 10:21 on May 1, 2021 |
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May 1, 2021 10:11
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Seconding Lezyne - have a grip drive HV . It's 19 cm in length and contains a hose that you pull out and screw into both the pump and the presta valve Its also very light and isnt fixed directly to the wheel , so its easier to pump without wobbling the bike about and the connection is very secure - only real downside ive heard from an IRL friends saying they managed to unscrew the presta core when taking it off once(ive not experienced this).
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Jul 20, 2021 18:07
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Did the first brakes come with organic pads - that might account for the lack of the initial bite. Thats typically metallic pads dont have that inital strong bite, but fair better in wet conditions and when they get hot(they also howl). If the brakes feel equal in bite front and rear then you probably have a good bleed. One thing ive seen mentioned is that you shouldnt mix pads - eg use organic then switch to metallic - not sure how important that is and i have no direct experience in how good or bad this is. I assume cleaning the disks + pads with brake cleaner and then bedding in again would remove this out of the equation. I would maybe check the pistons are moving equally - remove the pads and push the pistons fully back in - then move them out very carfully(dont over extend them). If you notice one moves more than than the other - You might try getting some dot fluid and working the pistons in and out cleaning and dabbing the pistons with the fluid as you work them out and push them back in(if one is sticking more than the other - then hold one side in and work the stuck side). Once both sides move equally give the piston a good clean before putting the pads back in.
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Jul 25, 2021 20:38
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Torbo posted:Both brakes have metallic pads. I know that alot of people hate on sram brakes, but ive been really happy with the Level T, so i figured that the Guide T would be okay too. Yeah, ive run code rs for the last 3 years - never had an issue nor noted anything negative moving from deore XT(apart from dealing with dot fluid).
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Jul 27, 2021 19:05
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One of the things about body position is that its going to be pretty unique to you and not anyone else, thats not to say there are things you do and dont do, but i would take postitional advice with a pinch of salt. Ive seen the hinging technique played up recently as an alt to the 'attack position' - in the past the attack position has been seen as some thing you always do and now its the hinging technique. Both aren't really wrong in any way and (to me) its really about energy management - you probably do the attack position and hinging technique a lot depending on what surfaces and terrain you are on - if you get tired you make mistakes. Being able to get down a trail without feeling like your are exhausted might be the objective for a lot of people. About front and back bias on the bike - i think a lot of riders might not know exactly how they move on the bikes, it cant really be simplified into some light hands heavy feet doctrine, especially since bikes have natural front back biases in their design - from XC which might be 60 40 rear to DH 70 30 and the terrain varies greatly(steepness). You will at some points need to press or weight the front down when turning - either for really quick turns or longer turns that have grippy spots in between tree roots or some other circumstance . So what i mean about moving on the bike is compressing into a turn or into a steep faced jump - a lot of riders(myself included in the past) can actually be moving weight backwards and might not realise this- focussing on moving the knees forward when you compress(and not the rear end moving backwards) gives very predictable results in terms of weight bias in front and rear(basically not changing it). This can mean a big difference in feeling in circumstances like these - eg. your front wheel washing out or the OTB feeling on bigger or steeper faced jumps. I dont know if this will be helpful to anyone - its a bit wishy washy, but i would be wary of any set in stone rules when it comes to biking.
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Aug 21, 2021 19:09
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Yeah, losing the front is something you want to never happen , rear is acceptable. You could run a thinner ply tire up front to lose weight - eg 2.3 exo+ rear, 2.4 exo front or 2.4 doubledown rear, 2.5 exo+ front - that sort of thing. Typically its the rear that needs the tougher casing, as its gets most of the worst square edge hits(this depends on how likely these are on your trails). Exo+ is the absolute minimum id run on the rear - from personal experience basic exo wont take any abuse with sharp rocks. Im currently running doubledown shorty(2.5 WT max grip) with exo+ dhr2 (2.4 WT max terra). That was a mistake on my part(poor wet season planning on my part) and probably next time ill have the casings reversed(but keep the compounds the same). Ive run doubledown on the rear previously, and its pretty bullet proof for me.
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Sep 17, 2021 13:25
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paberu posted:I've done some digging around and was thinking of something like: Think that sounds fine - as long as you like the grip you get. I wouldnt get too hung up on 2.35 vs 2.2 up front - just make sure they are fit for purpose and you arent running a bigger tire in the rear - I think this would feel pretty weird when turning. The same size front and rear is fine. Wider(and generally bigger) tires give better grip as you maximise surface in contact with the ground, but in return they cost you more effort to pedal.
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Sep 19, 2021 19:52
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Psychepath posted:What would cause a dropper post to rise incredibly slowly unless tapped with light pressure on the front or back of the seat? Could be a few things in combination or by themselves: 1) lack of air spring pressure 2) lack of activation lever movement (eg loose or stretched cable, if reverb hydraulic actuator then it might have bubbles and need bleeding) 3) bushing or key wear (check for excessive play when fully extended) 4) dirty seals and/or contaminated grimy slick grease or maybe its going dry. Most of these things can usually be solved with a basic service that dont need a complete strip and most manufacturers have some cheap(er) way to do it yourself. If it's spongy at all(or if it has a reset switch that needs used all the time), then it needs a more involved service to solve a floating piston issue in the main internals.
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Sep 21, 2021 00:10
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For my last summer set of types I didnt have much luck with EXO - It died in the first 40 secs of the same trail on 2 seperate occasions. Plugging worked , but im hesitent to put up with that(currently its sitting useless). Maybe i should get a cheap insert to get some use out of it. I had an older EXO+ DHR2 fpor winter and wet seasons that i tried out recently for giggles(to see if i could get any more life out of it), and it definetely lasted longer, but it has 6 months riding on it and i got 3 plug hole that keeps blowing out under certain circumstances so im probably binning it(tread had maybe a couple of months left in it). I moved back to my summer rear - a 2.4 DD dissector which has been bomb proof - so for my winter setup im probably doing some DD on the rear to replace the DHR2. Im not sure if its because im getting faster and pushing it harder or maybe manufacturing has been crap this year, but out of maxxis stuff i suggest exo plus as minimum and if you can take the extra weight DD is probably best. Not that experienced with other makes - so maybe someone else can suggest a ligghter alternative. Of note i think 22 psi on the rear is pretty low - Im about 160 and i run 26 on the rear with 2.4" tire (21 on the 2.5 "front).
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Sep 23, 2021 15:31
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We all gently caress up, but we never let anyone take our bikes.....unless its over our dead bodies. Get well goon!
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Sep 27, 2021 14:22
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Nohearum posted:A new carbon wheelset is calling me. Talk me out of it. Sorry, cant help. There is a land over the next hill free from buckling, where one exists in a state of perpetual truness(and anxiety).
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Oct 4, 2021 12:50
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vikingstrike posted:Just make sure you get an OK warranty This is the most imprtant thing , I feel that getting them second hand is a very risky proposition. Mines are e13 lg+ rims that come with 5 years no questions replacement(they will lace them up aswell). Ive scratched and cased them hard for nearly 2 years now - i check them preiodically, but ive slowly stopped worrying about it. Prior to this the last 30mm alloy rims(lg+alloys that came with the bike) got dinged and bent to the point where inflation was a problem(lasted about 2 years) and truing wasnt really possible. numptyboy fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Oct 4, 2021 |
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Oct 4, 2021 19:59
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https://www.pinkbike.com/news/1996-klein-mantra-pro-now-that-was-a-bike.html
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Oct 17, 2021 20:09
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me your dad posted:I have a two month old Fuel EX 7 with less than 140 miles on it and I brought it in for service after it developed some creaking. They're telling me two bearings have seized and the headset has gotten mud in it. I'm loving dumbfounded. I don't ride in excessively gross conditions and I never power wash my bike. Id go on a limb with this and say its maybe related to some BS no-name brand bearings being used due to some pandemic supply issues. I cant imagine that being the fault of the actual bike design. One thing i would say is that the bearing should be replaced under warranty - I would write Trek an email about it.
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Oct 24, 2021 20:37
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PolishPandaBear posted:Well gently caress, my bike was stolen. It was only a base model Timberjack that I got for $700, which is still a lot of money, but better than losing a $6,000 carbon full suspension bike. I succumbed to my girlfriend's wishes to get it out of the apartment so I locked up in my building's car garage, and of course yesterday was the day that the doors malfunctioned and opened by themselves. Dont trust any of these fully - but especially dont trust somone using stock images. The chips on the Tallboy dont look too bad to me at all from what i can see I have a YT carbon capra 2019 with the e13 lg+ carbon rims and both wheels and frame have been pretty bomb proof - so i wouldnt be too scared of any small scratches or chips. With carbon i think you need to look for impact cracking from crash damage and pay attention to any unexplainable creaking. The Carbon YT Jeffsy might be ok - the main issue seems to be the scratches on the fork uppers. If they are deep then i would avoid it(or haggle a discount to at least some part of the value of new uppers) - if they are superficial it will probably be ok(check if any of the burrs stick up in any noticable way). These shouldnt leak noticably in any way even if the scratches are bad - id be more worried about stiction(general performance of the fork) and or wear on the lower bushings. Regardless of what bike you think about - i would inspect first hand and take a long a shock pump and ask to depressure the shocks(maybe to 30 percent of norm) to make sure the actions are smooth through the travel and there is no play in the linkages(and repressurise to test ride it).
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Jan 2, 2022 13:44
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Blackhawk posted:I'm worried about sliding out despite never having had that happen. Not sure if anyone in between this touched on this - when you compress the bike(this applies to ramped steep jumps too) make sure you are loading the bike in the right way - im struggling to explain a bit, but its super easy to load the rear and cause front wash out conditions(or in jumps load the rear which causes the buck forward). Try experimenting with compressing the bike into turns by dipping the knees forward(with rear end straight down into the direction of compression and dipping your chest to the bars). I used to make this mistake when moving down on the bike to compress - i was more loading up the rear by moving my rear end down and back. When you push into corners you may be loading the rear more and losing the front grip a touch and this is causing apprehension of what might happen causing you brake and lose speed. On the subject of a berm - there are many opinions on what a berm actually is. So make sure you are actually riding a berm and not a flat turn with a uptick at the sides and apply the correct thinking of where you need to be on the bike. Ben Cathro finished a great series on how to bike on pinkbike - i think that's pretty great place to look for tips(though i would say he is a pretty 'lanky' rider and that might reflect how he rides).
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Jan 4, 2022 01:33
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mashed posted:I decided to try some shorter cranks and and a fancy oval chainring to see if it helps my garbage tech climbing ability. I put some 165mm cranks on for the last year(im about 5 10), after running 170 and 175 for for over a decade. My thoughts on it: 1) Far kinder on the knees 2) Better for moving around and makes you feel a bit taller (changing by 0.5cm doesnt sound like much, but it feels radically different) 3) less pedal strikes 4) harder to pedal(but i can compensate with lower grear) 5) fred flinstone spinny legs Im actually very interested to see how 160mm would feel, but it's a bit of a fanancial gamble im not ready for yet.
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Jul 11, 2022 00:45
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yoohoo posted:The calculators online always bothered me for the same reason so I just bought a heart rate monitor. It’s been nice knowing I can fully justify whatever post ride meal I want i.e. a burger and a beer. Aim for 20 to 25 percent sag on the front - standing on the bike and play with heavy and light hands and you should fall beween that range. Also i would initially set it by rockshox suggestions for weight then adjust from there by preference. For rebound set it also by rs recommendation for weight. For lsc and hsc it's something you need to play with. If the fork is too active and your rebound is right add a bit of lsc. If you bottom out a lot, volume spacers and or hsc helps. Also Lsc needs a little hsc to work properly I find. Volume spacers and lsc adjustment can help if the fork feels to divey in corner. Check out bracketing as a way to figure this stuff out. I wouldn't be setting compression different for uphill vs downhill. I'd only ever add hsc or and extra psi as a pre ride thing for a specifically steeper downhill venue . Trying to lock out a front fork on a squigy bike is a weird thing to do and I dont think it would be that helpful for uphill.
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Jul 11, 2022 10:44
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Homers BBBq posted:Thanks guys I appreciate the feedback. I've been running 23 psi +/- front and back just based on experimenting and feel and I'm 195lbs. Based on my reading that's not terribly low but definitely puts me at risk for dents so I'll probably run a little higher in in the future (on the next rim). On the front 23 psi would be fine - but for your weight id say 23 on the rear is very low. I guess it depends on the tyre but id think you would be a lot safer at 23/26 plus for the front/rear. I run maxxis double down front and rear and i would only go 22 front 25 at the very least on rear, and im about 160lb. So i would suggest 26 at minimum and add rim protection if you are dead set on running that low. Even with a tough casing, i can sometimes feel square edge hits that would have dinged my rims if they were my old alu rims which i got 2 years out of. At their end of life they were a pain in the rear end to inflate on account of the dings and they would not lie flat when unlaced from the hub. Ive been running carbon rims since then with no issues, i check them now and again and im super impressed. Truing them is super easy, as they dont taco. For reference im running ethirteen lg+ carbon rims(they come with 5 year no questions asked guarantee). It maybe worthwhile asking about what alu rims other recommend.
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Jul 11, 2022 21:18
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Bud Manstrong posted:I wonder if the frame is off and the dropouts aren’t aligned. Yeah, or maybe the dropouts are loose? The other thing to check would be play in the axle and bearings. Maybe the preload stack has wound off a bit in the main rear hub and its making the axle a touch too wide and prone to movement which is allowing the thru-axle to unwind. The axle should just need grease and not threadlocker as others have said.
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Jul 17, 2022 16:35
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stratdax posted:The manufacturer will tell you there is! Same. The bike is cool and is probably really good, but imo i feel like the extra pulley ( especially on an ebduro style bike) is probably going to invite way more wear and maintenance than a more 'traditional' designs. Ive never felt like pedal kick back adversely affects my riding to any great degree. I way more limited by skill level. I will say one thing; the last time I broke my hanger at the start of a flowy descent and had to run chainless the whole way down I felt pretty fuckin fast I'm assuming as I needed to pump more and maintain the flow than my suspension working better.
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Sep 6, 2022 12:43
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School of How posted:Has anyone here ever had a problem with a tire that has a too small diameter bead and it won't fit onto your rim? My new enduro bike ended up getting a flat tire on my first ride. So I bought a set Tannus Armor and set out to install it. At first I thought the tire were tubeless since it seemed the bead was glued to the rim. It turns out it wasn't glued, it just fit on extremely tightly. I actually broke one of my tire levers clean in half while trying to get one of the tires off. I managed to get both tires removed, but now I can't get either one of them back on. The diameter of the tire bead is about 2 cm smaller than the diameter of the rim. I'm probably going to have to teke these wheels to my local bike shop and have them try to get the tire on, but I have a feeling they won't be able to, and I'll have to just get a new set of tires which have a slightly larger bead. Not sure what can cause issues when the bead is 2cm out of whack. There might also be some tire manufacturing tolerances got a little fucky during covid(or on certain production lines). My last dissector tire was pig awful to put on compared to the other DHR2 and Assegai which went on and off without tools or hassle. similar casing , all tubeless. I)ve found that tires being tough to be put on can happen if the rim tape is too thick. I think i remember having e13 tape on my old alu rim before and had no issues, and when i built some new wheels with e13 carbon rims the manual said to use e13 rim tape wrapping to the tune of 2 and half times. The stans tape i had was much thicker and tires proved to be a bit more difficult to put on with as the centre dip and outer rim edge diameter had effectively increased. Using a little less tape helped a lot with fixing this. I cant see this causing a 2cm discrepency though.
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Oct 21, 2022 12:50
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VelociBacon posted:I'm not even sure they can replace bushings without just replacing the lowers - we call them bushings but AFAIK they're not like what you'd expect, they're another softer metal or something. I think it might depend on the make - i think RS insist on new lowers while Fox can do new bushings. I wouldnt ride on it unless you are sure the burrs wont rip into the bushings. To repair there are some guides on filing off the burrs and then filling any gap with some kind of epoxy and then letting it harden and sand it down using really fine grit sandpaper and a lot of patience. Ive done this with fairly small scratches and while it worked, the scratches were too small for the expoxy to bind to and eventually came off so overall i dont think it was worth the effort in my case, and i ended up just putting up with the cosmetic annoyance. You can find some kits online that have all the stuff you need.
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Oct 21, 2022 13:04
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Arishtat posted:I went through this earlier this year with a Fox 34 fork and here is the summary: On the replcement CSU side - i replaced my lyrik recently due to CSU creak(creaking was really bad when landing jumps, braking and doing endo corners). It was actually cheaper to find an on sale yari of the correct offset and travel and replace the entire thing, than buy a new CSU. I ended up just switching the charger 2.1 damper across and updating the seals(yari seals were not good) and i was good to go. Its worthwhile looking at options if you go down the new csu route.
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Oct 23, 2022 14:14
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I dont have direct experience of ebikes, but a couple of riders that i know that do use and have them they reckon the bosch motors are a bit overkill as they wear out 12speed chains super quick - i think one of the guys had moved to a different bike with a weaker motor(i think a shimano) as the drive train costs were adding up. The other was just putting up with the costs and grumbling. I seem to remember them both saying 100 to 200 miles per chain. Geting the most powerful motor might sound good on paper but it might sting in other ways. I also spoke to some bike shop guy saying that new ebike drive trains are probably going to be coming out at 11 speed for this reason. I would check out this sort of thing before investing.
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Oct 31, 2022 01:48
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 03:10 |
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evil_bunnY posted:Ah yes the spot you want to NOT triangulate is the part closest to the BB axle, obviously. Trust me bro, it's fine. Seriously, I personally wouldnt chance that. Another red flag is i dont see any good pics of the spindle. If thats worn i wouldnt use it either as it'll end up breaking BB bearings every 6 months.
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May 17, 2023 22:42
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