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evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Invalido posted:

There's a bit of cosmetic rust in spots where water drops hang around but not too bad. I'm just too lazy to do chain maintenance in the evenening. I could get the compressor out to the shed and blow dry the chain and then apply I guess but I don't, too much effort. Lube sprayed onto a wet chain seems to stick worse and then I risk it getting squeaky before I get home from work if it's wet. I really dislike a squeaky chain.
Yeah I'd keep a compressor next to the bike parking spot IIWY. Wipe the rain and grunge, blow dry for 20 seconds, lube.

Every passing winter day comfort me in my choice of going for a gates belt lol

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Groda
Mar 17, 2005

Hair Elf
Buying a one-speed chain per year is still cheaper.

stephenthinkpad
Jan 2, 2020
I rode my old ebike for 5 years before I finally decide to replace the chain. Only doing it because I plan to sell it. Never had any problem with the cheap chain. Rear hub motor takes care of most of the load from the chain.

One thing I found out is it has really long 122 links, normal bike chain pack only comes with 116 links. My new bike uses 118 links I think. So I had to look for the really long 122 pack on Amazon.

stephenthinkpad fucked around with this message at 13:52 on Jan 27, 2023

Dobbs_Head
May 8, 2008

nano nano nano

Looking for some tire advice.

I’ve gone about 1750 miles on my Kona Dew and got my first flat while commuting. I go about 7.5 miles each way. Had the bike shop fix it, but I got another flat today on the same wheel. I figure there is some dirt or grit stuck in the tire.

I’m running the stock WTB Horizon Comps (650x47c). I’ve loved them for performance and traction, never lost it on ice or slush. But flats on a commute suck and I think I want to step to something more durable. I got bike lanes, but there is literally broken glass in them sometimes.

Any recommendations for a one or two step tougher tire? Just switch to marathon pluses?

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
I've got marathon pluses on my bike and my wife's bike and she only had her first flat after a year and a half of commuting. My city is paved with broken glass and since they went to biweekly recycling the trucks drive around dumping little piles of broken glass every 30 feet :toot:

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

Dobbs_Head posted:

Looking for some tire advice.

Seconding marathon pluses. They're by far the best against flats I've tried over the decades. They have drawbacks (kind of pricy, heavy, can be a bit difficult to mount/dismount, not the comfiest riding) but a flat always sucks so to me they're worth it. I still always carry everything I need to fix a flat by the roadside when commuting but apart from a bum studded tire at the beginning of this winter flats don't happen to me much at all anymore. Maybe once a year on average on the schwalbes. Used to be once a month or so when I ran lighter tires. Glass is the most common culprit, but metal debris, sharp pebbles and even thorns from plants have stopped me before. The road bike with light skinny tires gets lots of flats but I rarely commute on it and it sees nowhere near the same distances over a year so I don't mind as much.

It's fine to bring flats to the bike shop for repair but if you don't know how to do it yourself and want to learn there are excellent youtube tutorials (it's not difficult once you learn a few tricks) and the tools you need are few and cheap.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Dobbs_Head posted:

Looking for some tire advice.

I’ve gone about 1750 miles on my Kona Dew and got my first flat while commuting. I go about 7.5 miles each way. Had the bike shop fix it, but I got another flat today on the same wheel. I figure there is some dirt or grit stuck in the tire.

I’m running the stock WTB Horizon Comps (650x47c). I’ve loved them for performance and traction, never lost it on ice or slush. But flats on a commute suck and I think I want to step to something more durable. I got bike lanes, but there is literally broken glass in them sometimes.

Any recommendations for a one or two step tougher tire? Just switch to marathon pluses?

Normal marathons are a bit nicer to ride on than the pluses and similarly invulnerable.

Marathon supremes are a faster rolling slick version.

Pirelli Cinturato Velo are a nice middle ground between proper fast tyres and marathons, they’re tough, but roll really well and are tubeless. Only go up to 35c though I think.

Some of the continental touring tyres are worth a look too. Contact travel.

Dobbs_Head
May 8, 2008

nano nano nano

I know how to fix a flat. It was more about time efficiency, and the fact that my flat kit got moved out of my bag, that I went to a shop. There were also a bunch of small cleaning / tuning issues that I haven’t had the time or proper weather to work on.

Took the bike back to the same shop. They had some tires that they recommend that fit the 650 wheels in stock and offered to comp me the labor to swap them. I may also get marathon pluses later but go skinner than the 47s.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

I went with Marathon Supremes on my commuter last time I needed to replace things, and I wish I'd just gotten Pluses for the extra toughness.

marshalljim
Mar 6, 2013

yospos
Yeah, I was gonna throw in a caveat about Marathon Supremes, just in case. I think the casing is probably pretty tough, but that slick rubber is sticky and it loves to pick up little pieces of wire, other metal, and glass that need to be spotted and plucked out before they work themselves in further. The stock tires that came on my touring bike/commuter are way better about shedding that stuff, and I think it's down to having cheaper rubber that is harder and not as pleasant to ride on.

The Supremes are still puncture-resistant enough that I keep then on my commuter, but I dunno if they feel like a true "Marathon" tire. I know op hasn't even mentioned em, but just something to be aware of.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


marathons plus are bulletproof but boy do they let you know it every second you’re riding on them

Dobbs_Head
May 8, 2008

nano nano nano

Another me problem is that I find bike wheel / tire sizing confusing. The fact that there are 3 distinct measurement systems makes it really hard to tell if a particular tire will fit. I’m like cross checking three charts. It’s hard to tell how much change in tire width would be ok.

The tires I was using had so many bits of metal, wire and glass in them. It was hard to trust that any tube I put in them wouldn’t just get punctured again. I’m not entirely happy with the tires the bike shop had, though, so I’m still looking. Thanks for the suggestions everyone!

The ride home was tougher than usual. But I was also wearing work clothes instead of bike gear, was super tired, and had a head-wind the whole way.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Dobbs_Head posted:

Another me problem is that I find bike wheel / tire sizing confusing. The fact that there are 3 distinct measurement systems makes it really hard to tell if a particular tire will fit. I’m like cross checking three charts. It’s hard to tell how much change in tire width would be ok.

ISO and ETRTO are the same and worth looking up for any small tire. Listed tire width frequently varies by a couple mm from widest measured width, and you have to rely on community knowledge for a given tire model.
Going up in size is limited by your fork and frame. Just leave some margin for grit and mud to not rub your frame. Going down in size is limited by your rim width. You probably want to have the tire be 1.25x the inner rim width so that the bead isn’t too loose against the rim.

Going up or down a few mm in tire radius also affects your distance from the ground. Handling doesn’t change much. You might notice extra height if you put down just one foot at a light. If you drop the height a lot, you might scrape the pedal when leaning over a lot in a turn while still pedaling.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

kimbo305 posted:

Helpful words
Adding two things to this specifically for commuting:
Frame width is the hard limit for tire thickness but you're likely to experience fender rubbing before that. It can usually be adjusted but not always. Taller or lower bike will be really noticeable if you have a side kickstand since not much difference in tire size will greatly affect the bike's lean angle when on the stand. Not all sidestands are easily adjustable in length which can be mildly frustrating at times.

Dobbs_Head
May 8, 2008

nano nano nano

kimbo305 posted:

Going up or down a few mm in tire radius also affects your distance from the ground. Handling doesn’t change much. You might notice extra height if you put down just one foot at a light. If you drop the height a lot, you might scrape the pedal when leaning over a lot in a turn while still pedaling.

I dented one of my pedals in a steep turn. Went from feeling like a badass to a jackass.

The dew’s stock 650-47c are pretty wide, but I really like the height and geometry. And I’ve ridden over ice with the slicks without losing much traction. But I figure moving toward a more durable tire will up traction naturally. I don’t want too big a change, though.

40mm is probably a floor for width on my next tire. I don’t want to go wider than the 47s.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Dobbs_Head posted:

But I figure moving toward a more durable tire will up traction naturally. I don’t want too big a change, though.

You have it backwards, soft rubber is grippy but doesn’t last long.

Hardwearing durable tyres last a long time but have worse grip.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name
Also narrower tires have less grip, wider ones more.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

Dobbs_Head posted:

The dew’s stock 650-47c are pretty wide, but I really like the height and geometry. And I’ve ridden over ice with the slicks without losing much traction. But I figure moving toward a more durable tire will up traction naturally. I don’t want too big a change, though.
Winter riding is tricky, properties of snow and ice vary wildly. What works in some places will be useless in others. Solid sufficiently cold ice can be pretty grippy and if it's clean without snow almost any tire that doesn't become too hard in those temperatures will do fine, including slicks, and then something changes a little (usually temperature) and all of a sudden no studless tire will give you hardly any friction at all. Slicks on any amount of dry snow is never going to be a good idea IMO.
Unfortunately tires that work really well on snow and ice are terrible in every single other way imaginable so those of us who run them swap tires twice a year. I have no idea what a good all-season bike tire for your location and riding needs would be but something with soft rubber and a fairly finely cut treat pattern seems a reasonable guess. It's been decades since I did winter riding without studded tires though so I don't really know much about it except that it's much easier when it's well below freezing than when close to 0C/32F

Groda
Mar 17, 2005

Hair Elf

Mods?

Dobbs_Head
May 8, 2008

nano nano nano

wooger posted:

You have it backwards, soft rubber is grippy but doesn’t last long.

Hardwearing durable tyres last a long time but have worse grip.

Thanks, this make sense.

After researching the options this thread gave and what was available, I decided to go with marathons. The regular marathons come in a 44-584 (also, gently caress the iso convention for putting tire width first. Really fucks up a list search).

I figured the 44mm width was pretty close to the 47s I’m used too. The marathon pluses only come in 40-584 and I’m not sure I really need the extra durability enough to justify dropping 7 mm and losing even more grip.

Also recovered my roadside repair kit from where it got scattered.

Jokerpilled Drudge
Jan 27, 2010

by Pragmatica
marathon plus's are by far the most durable and flat proof tire you'll want without going for some kind of solid tire gimmick... that said, they are tricky for some people to get on which makes them a no go. IMO you should just get better at putting tires on if this is an issue

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Groda posted:

Buying a one-speed chain per year is still cheaper.
I mean that's great but you'll still have to maintain it or have it sound like poo poo after 2 weeks of winter riding.

Groda
Mar 17, 2005

Hair Elf

evil_bunnY posted:

I mean that's great but you'll still have to maintain it or have it sound like poo poo after 2 weeks of winter riding.

That's not even remotely true.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Groda posted:

That's not even remotely true.
Dude I maintained my wife's IGH bike through 5 winters. The thing that improves maintenance intervals is a chain case, not so much the fact that it's single speed.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

evil_bunnY posted:

Dude I maintained my wife's IGH bike through 5 winters. The thing that improves maintenance intervals is a chain case, not so much the fact that it's single speed.
You will get good at patching tubes if you have a chain case because removing the wheel to replace a tube is such a pain.

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Feb 1, 2023

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
Full chain case igf drum brake cargo bike family coming in twice a year for their winter/summer marathon tire swap can get fuuuuucked. I miss a lot of things about that bike shop but not that bullshit.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

EvilJoven posted:

Full chain case igf drum brake cargo bike family coming in twice a year for their winter/summer marathon tire swap can get fuuuuucked. I miss a lot of things about that bike shop but not that bullshit.

Yeah we have a dutchman just like that. It was a nasty shock the first time I got handed that job.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
Ancient bakfiets rebuild continues. It's been mainly carpentry and epoxy/fiberglass work lately. I like working with nice plywood well enough and the epoxy system I've got is fine, so are the epoxy techniques and tools I've picked up from watching youtubes. Fiberglass can go gently caress itself though, it's awful itchy nasty stuff. In order to seal the wood from the elements I'm using the boatbuilding technique of "drill-fill-drill" making all holes oversized, filling with thickened epoxy and then drilling it out again. Pretty tedious and the lockable box/seat isn't in yet but the end is in sight. Imma paint this box red I think, possibly with some black stripes or cool stickers if I can be arsed to fair the sides smooth using some kind of filler before primer.


evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

CopperHound posted:

You will get good at patching tubes if you have a chain case because removing the wheel to replace a tube is such a pain.
The old ones are total PITAs yeah. The newer ones are just plastic composite and snap-fit together (so they're easy, but they snap break after a few years).

EvilJoven posted:

Full chain case igf drum brake cargo bike family coming in twice a year for their winter/summer marathon tire swap can get fuuuuucked. I miss a lot of things about that bike shop but not that bullshit.
Hahahaha

Invalido posted:

Fiberglass can go gently caress itself though
Is your PPE not up to it?

Invalido posted:

it's awful itchy nasty stuff. In order to seal the wood from the elements I'm using the boatbuilding technique of "drill-fill-drill" making all holes oversized, filling with thickened epoxy and then drilling it out again. Pretty tedious

SO. MANY. HOLES.

evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 09:37 on Feb 3, 2023

Groda
Mar 17, 2005

Hair Elf

evil_bunnY posted:

Dude I maintained my wife's IGH bike through 5 winters. The thing that improves maintenance intervals is a chain case, not so much the fact that it's single speed.

The only way a one-speed chain is going to make any meaningful amount of noise after two weeks of winter riding is if you mounted it on a belt drive cog.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

evil_bunnY posted:

Is your PPE not up to it?

SO. MANY. HOLES.
Not really up to it, no. I wore gloves and a respirator but also worked in a t-shirt since I got hot which was real dumb. Lesson learned. Again. I've worked with fiberglass insulation before which isn't exactly pleasant but this heavy glass fabric I used had way more pokey fibers. There's just a bit more lamination left but I'll mostly use a lighter cloth that shouldn't be nearly as bad. Also I'll wear long sleeves and sweat some rather than having itchy arms again.

Haven't counted the holes but it's probably going to be around 50 in total. gently caress me. I could probably have less than 18 screws for lock box hinges alone. Oh well they're almost all done except 4-6 more for the center stand which I haven't built yet and one for the box lock cylinder. I went to the super nice special fastener shop today and bought a bunch of stainless screws/nuts/bolts/washers, felt like a kid in a candy store. All holes will be filled with something useful or necessary except for the drainage holes and the grab handles/cargo strap slits which are just...holes.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Invalido posted:

I went to the super nice special fastener shop today and bought a bunch of stainless screws/nuts/bolts/washers, felt like a kid in a candy store.
LOL I did the same when I rebuilt my kid's bunk bed. zero euros of recycled wood and like 50 bucks of hardware. DGAF, it looks neat.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING


30 eurobucks of hardware right there. Pricey but man their selection is supreme. 5.2mm conical torx head marine grade stainless screws in 2mm lenght increments? Why of course they have that! Easily worth the visit since I'm mostly screwing into blind holes in 10mm plywood and I want to maximize thread engagement. Had I gone to the big box store I'd have to get suboptimal fasteners and probably need to cut down a bunch of them which is just painful.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
I miss winter bike commuting enough that when this cold snap ends I'm side eyeing my hybrid that I did put studded tires on, you know, just in case.

I wonder if the drivers have settled the gently caress down a bit.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
Also I'm getting fat.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Invalido posted:



30 eurobucks of hardware right there. Pricey but man their selection is supreme. 5.2mm conical torx head marine grade stainless screws in 2mm lenght increments? Why of course they have that! Easily worth the visit since I'm mostly screwing into blind holes in 10mm plywood and I want to maximize thread engagement. Had I gone to the big box store I'd have to get suboptimal fasteners and probably need to cut down a bunch of them which is just painful.

Do those come from some magical hardware store local to you? I know where to get all that in the US market online but I've never seen selection like that in person.

webcams for christ
Nov 2, 2005

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

Do those come from some magical hardware store local to you? I know where to get all that in the US market online but I've never seen selection like that in person.

I have a similar selection at my local independent hardware/hobby store in Switzerland, which isn't a chain. 2000 m^2 floorspace and a 6 minute bike ride from my apartment. the tools they carry are really expensive, but the hardware is reasonable

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

Do those come from some magical hardware store local to you? I know where to get all that in the US market online but I've never seen selection like that in person.

pretty much a local magical store, yeah. It's simply a store that only sells threaded fasteners and nothing else. OK not entirely true I saw some screwdrivers and a neat little flashlight and some work gloves by the checkout but 98% of the store is screws/nuts/washers. There's only one of these stores in Sweden AFAIK so not part of a chain, that by happenstance is close to my place of work. This is fortunate because it's only open weekdays during normal tradespeople hours. (there are chains geared towards professionals like Würth of course but their selection is nowhere near as focused or fine-grained). I don't shop at this place often but when I do it's always a nice experience and I've never left without exactly what I needed. The time before today it was new screws for my motorcycle mirrors and before that it was some nuts and bolts for mounting a trailer hitch to a car. Everything is available online of course (these guys have started doing e-commerce recently too) but today I went there with some component like a hinge and the holder for my U-lock as well as some vernier calipers and it's real nice to see and measure which fasteners are actually the best fit IRL.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

EvilJoven posted:

I wonder if the drivers have settled the gently caress down a bit.

I have, regrettably, noticed just the opposite since the snow really started in earnest this year.

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osker
Dec 18, 2002

Wedge Regret

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