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DapperDraculaDeer
Aug 4, 2007

Shut up, Nick! You're not Twilight.

I've been getting into hunting for a while now, and as I go further and further out into remote areas Ive been learning a fair bit about mud and driving in mud. When I first started hunting I was driving an E39 wagon, which was awesome for driving to and from the areas I hunted but for obvious reasons never left the relative comfort of the asphalt. When things on the e39 started breaking faster than I could repair them I traded it in for a '99 F250, which has been a great truck for a lot of reasons, but for hunting the combination of 2wd and street tires has been problematic.......



I get stuck in the mud a lot. After spending several afternoons and one very nerve racking evening stuck in what seemed like very passable mud it became apparent that I was going to need to get appropriate tires. And maybe some four wheel drive. But I use my truck for a lot of stuff other than hunting and the switch to off road tires would have had some disadvantages too. I suppose I could get a second set of tires and swap those out every time I go hunting. Or perhaps I should just sell the 2wd truck and get a 4wd, but a 7.3 mated to a six speed is actually a pretty fun truck to drive and Im not sure I could find the same package in 4wd at a price I liked. So, I guess the only thing to do is get a dedicated hunting vehicle.

And after a few months of searching Craigslist and Facebook's marketplace for either a slide in truck camper or some kind of hunting vehicle I fell in love. One family trip to the other side of Dallas later and we were driving home a new project.



A Land Rover Discovery 2 hacked into a truck.



And setup as a rather gnarly looking trail rig.



Along with a Warn 8000 winch up front the truck has Truetracs front and back, a front HD drive shaft and some beefy mud tires. It also has some other common Land Rover mods like an inline thermostat hack and the throttle body heater plate bypassed. Thats the good.

The bad is that the truck lived in a field for a while and a rat gnawed through the wiring harness. The previous owner repaired this along with doing lots of other work but the truck does still have electrical gremlins. The radio does work but it appears to not be connected to the trucks antennae, the map light is sporadic at best and most importantly at least one of the o2 sensors is causing a CEL(almost certainly due to wiring).



Dealing with wiring in general will be a theme of this project. I have almost zero experience dealing with automotive electrical stuff so this is going to be a learning experience for sure.



The back is also spacious. Ive got my camp in a box box and two coolers with room to spare. Thats my usually multi day hunt package so I was glad to see it fits so well. I think a cargo net of some sort would be helpful too.




The other issue is the passenger side rubbed up against something while on a trail ride. After crawling around the truck a bit it looks like the damage is some cracked bondo and a warped front fender. This is largely cosmetic stuff that Im honestly not that worried about. It would be nice to patch it up a bit but its fairly low priority.

So for now my priority list is as follows:

1. Mud flaps. Preferably the kind that have a lady on them.

2: Get the truck registered, inspected and road legal. The only issue preventing this currently is the CEL caused by the o2 sensor(s) being disconnected and/or broken. Ive gotten under the truck and verified that all four sensors are there and are plugged into something. Now I need to follow those wires back into the engine bay to make sure they are connected. It couldnt hurt to also pull the sensors to verify they havent gone bad, but the prior owner knows the truck pretty well and his recommendation to focus on the wiring is probably a good one. I should also go ahead and change the oil/filter, replace the air filter and do some other routine maintenance to get started on the trucks maintenance log.

3: Roll back some of the off road tweaking to make the truck a bit more civilized for driving on roads. While a big part of my reason for purchasing this rig was not getting stuck in the mud again, the reality is I spend far more time driving to and from the areas I hunt than actually being off road. Doing some basic stuff like reinstalling the front swaybar will make the ride a lot less hair raising on the highway. Installing a new heater core will also make the truck much more comfortable for hunting season.

4. Clean up the interior. The number one issue here is going to be doing something to protect the wiring. Most of my gear will go in the back of the truck, but firearms need to be inside where they can be locked up if for some reason I have to stop off en route. That means Im going to have to be reaching back behind the seats where all those wires are dangling, and thats just asking for trouble. I think this will be as simple as getting some wiring sleaves and zip tires but any advice about how to do this is appreciated. A new headliner and replacing some of the broken interior plastic bits would also be nice. I see these trucks on sale for parts all the time on Craiglist so it should be easy to replace a lot of the little plastic bits as well. Oh, and hooking up the sunroof would be handy too.

5. Exterior work. Straighten up those bent panels, patch up that bondo(can you patch up bondo?) and maybe a refresh on the paint. I think the truck would look good in olive green, but then again its current color does kind of give it a cool Desert Rats feel. I also need to install a set of cargo tie downs in the back and add a cargo net to help secure anything that goes back there. This is all pretty far off in the distance so Ill flesh it out more as the time arrives.

DapperDraculaDeer fucked around with this message at 13:25 on Aug 4, 2020

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Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012

I write my poems in the dirt with an oily rag
I have to wear a gas mask just so I don't gag
I got a SOCOM scout and twenty extra mags
And a couple severed heads in my bug-out bag






DapperDraculaDeer posted:

5. Mud flaps. Preferably the kind that have a lady on them.

Sir, your priorities seem to be off, that should be #1! Also, this should be an entertaining journey for you.

bolind
Jun 19, 2005



Pillbug

Digging the repurposed rear window.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.


What year is it?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


I'm disappointed that this isn't a thread about a Gladiator, but on the other hand I love these sorts of off-the-deep-end project threads where you've got pretty much nowhere to go but up!

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

Raluek posted:

I'm disappointed that this isn't a thread about a Gladiator, but on the other hand I love these sorts of off-the-deep-end project threads where you've got pretty much nowhere to go but up!

I'm the complete opposite. I'm thankful this isn't a "watch me spend 15k upgrading my 35k Gladiator" thread, and is instead something much entertaining and unique.

DapperDraculaDeer
Aug 4, 2007

Shut up, Nick! You're not Twilight.

Elmnt80 posted:

Sir, your priorities seem to be off, that should be #1! Also, this should be an entertaining journey for you.

This is wise. Ive rearranged my priorities list accordingly.


bolind posted:

Digging the repurposed rear window.

Thats actually the entire rear door. Its pop riveted on then sealed with.... something. Maybe JB Weld? Its far to tough to be window caulking, whatever it is. The whole design is really neat and well thought out. The implementation isnt perfect but I think its still really good. The entire thing is the work of a talented amateur rather than a professional and it couldnt be more perfect.

InitialDave posted:

What year is it?

This is a 2000.

sharkytm posted:

I'm the complete opposite. I'm thankful this isn't a "watch me spend 15k upgrading my 35k Gladiator" thread, and is instead something much entertaining and unique.

By the time this all said and done a Gladiator might turn out to have been cheaper and less stressful. It wouldnt be nearly as entertaining though.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.


DapperDraculaDeer posted:

This is a 2000.
Cool, it should still have a centre diff lock, then, through if someone's upgraded the axle diffs and half shafts already, I'd be surprised if they hadn't already enabled it.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.



Pillbug

This seems like a cry for help, but I also love it. Very excited to see how deep this rabbit hole goes.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Seat Safety Switch posted:

This seems like a cry for help, but I also love it. Very excited to see how deep this rabbit hole goes.

Yup.

The antennas are gone. they're in the c/d pillar windows, with amplifiers nearby.
Post your O2 sensor codes.
Also post pics of your jarvics heart delete.
heater core is easy. you don't even need to drop the column. pull the fuse panel kickplate, and all the dashboard mounting hardware at the bottom and middle frames. Remove the radio as there's a bracket behind it. put a thick beach towel on the passenger seat. Lift the dash up and over and sit it on the passenger seat. Driver's side will still be around the column. there's a bracket you'll need to trim with a dremel to slide the heatercore out without evacuating the aircon. Use new o-rings on the core and go easy on the aluminum clamps.

Ditch the rear driveshaft giubo.

cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Aug 4, 2020

DapperDraculaDeer
Aug 4, 2007

Shut up, Nick! You're not Twilight.

InitialDave posted:

Cool, it should still have a centre diff lock, then, through if someone's upgraded the axle diffs and half shafts already, I'd be surprised if they hadn't already enabled it.

This is good! I think. At least I think it is. Im pretty new to 4x4ing and stuff like this. I expect the previous owner did this, Ill have to check with him just to be sure though.

cursedshitbox posted:

Yup.

The antennas are gone. they're in the c/d pillar windows, with amplifiers nearby.
Post your O2 sensor codes.
Also post pics of your jarvics heart delete.
heater core is easy. you don't even need to drop the column. pull the fuse panel kickplate, and all the dashboard mounting hardware at the bottom and middle frames. Remove the radio as there's a bracket behind it. put a thick beach towel on the passenger seat. Lift the dash up and over and sit it on the passenger seat. Driver's side will still be around the column. there's a bracket you'll need to trim with a dremel to slide the heatercore out without evacuating the aircon. Use new o-rings on the core and go easy on the aluminum clamps.

Ditch the rear driveshaft giubo.

Im pretty sure this is just the next step in a rather extensive series of cries for help. Its been a ton of fun though. And thats possibly the most reasonable heater core access Ive heard of in a while too.

I forgot to save my previous log in Torq so I went out and pulled the code again. The codes are as follow:

P0161 - 02 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 2)

P01590 - Powetrain - my understanding is that this is unrelated and due to the truck being offroaded. It should in theory go away with a reset

P0137 - 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

P0160 - O2 Sensor No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)

P0327 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input

And is the driveshaft giubo really such a big deal? The original was replaced by the previous owner and he provided the old one as a spare. Will removing it help much with on road comfort?

Oh, and on a Land Rover whats a javics heart?

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.


DapperDraculaDeer posted:

This is good! I think. At least I think it is. Im pretty new to 4x4ing and stuff like this. I expect the previous owner did this, Ill have to check with him just to be sure though.
Traditionally, Land Rovers using the LT230 transfer case have a diff lock, so you have high and low range with neutral in the middle, when you move the transfer shifter fore and aft, but you can move the shifter sideways to lock the centre diff and have the same controls.

For the D2, they didn't include the difflock, so they're open-centred and are meant to rely on the traction control system. But on early ones like yours, the internals are all still there! So if you can actuate the difflock, it'll work. You can either use an aftermarket linkage, a linkage from a ~2004 when it was available again with CDL, or the linkage from a D1 should basically work too.

If your transfer shifter has an H pattern and/or can be moved laterally, or there's a separate unidentified mechanism in the vicinity, you might already have it sorted.

DapperDraculaDeer posted:

And is the driveshaft giubo really such a big deal? The original was replaced by the previous owner and he provided the old one as a spare. Will removing it help much with on road comfort?
They're not really up to heavy duty use and will probably eat themselves if you start getting a lot of axle movement going on etc. Fortunately, you should be able to just brap off the pinion yoke, and put on a standard pinion flange to use a traditional UJ driveshaft.

DapperDraculaDeer posted:

Oh, and on a Land Rover whats a javics heart?
The thermostat mod you mentioned, the thermostats are sometimes nicknamed a Jarvik heart because they look like a plastic artificial heart.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

InitialDave posted:

Traditionally, Land Rovers using the LT230 transfer case have a diff lock, so you have high and low range with neutral in the middle, when you move the transfer shifter fore and aft, but you can move the shifter sideways to lock the centre diff and have the same controls.

For the D2, they didn't include the difflock, so they're open-centred and are meant to rely on the traction control system. But on early ones like yours, the internals are all still there! So if you can actuate the difflock, it'll work. You can either use an aftermarket linkage, a linkage from a ~2004 when it was available again with CDL, or the linkage from a D1 should basically work too.

If your transfer shifter has an H pattern and/or can be moved laterally, or there's a separate unidentified mechanism in the vicinity, you might already have it sorted.


IIRC 99 and 00 models had the CDL and it came back for 04 with the 4.6. Those were cable operated whereas the D1 is mechanical. The D2 cases have different gears to make em a little quieter however slightly weaker. CDL swap is a small pain in the balls, I would just swap whole cases when I was into this sort of thing. D2 cases do not have provisions for a VSS like the D1 case does. It's not needed for the D2 as it gets vss information through the abs system via wheel sensors.

P1590 is the "rough road" shuttlevalve abs code, Ignore it.

The knock sensor code is probably a poo poo knock sensor, they get piping hot because of the obvious hot running rover v8 and just melt to hell. It's a generic Bosch sensor and pretty cheap. There's two and they both kind of suck to get at.

Check for power at the rear O2 sensors, both on the heater circuit and the filament circuit, both plugged in, and not. The sensor can fail shorted.

The Giubo is a flaming piece of poo poo that belongs on a LR3 or Mershitties/BMtroubleU. Grab a driveline from a D1/rrc and whip it in. Get the flange too.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


sharkytm posted:

I'm the complete opposite. I'm thankful this isn't a "watch me spend 15k upgrading my 35k Gladiator" thread, and is instead something much entertaining and unique.

I wasn't thinking of a new one. To be honest, I had forgotten that they even brought the name back.

InitialDave posted:

Traditionally, Land Rovers using the LT230 transfer case have a diff lock, so you have high and low range with neutral in the middle, when you move the transfer shifter fore and aft, but you can move the shifter sideways to lock the centre diff and have the same controls.

For the D2, they didn't include the difflock, so they're open-centred and are meant to rely on the traction control system. But on early ones like yours, the internals are all still there! So if you can actuate the difflock, it'll work. You can either use an aftermarket linkage, a linkage from a ~2004 when it was available again with CDL, or the linkage from a D1 should basically work too.

If your transfer shifter has an H pattern and/or can be moved laterally, or there's a separate unidentified mechanism in the vicinity, you might already have it sorted.

whoa this is actually pretty cool

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.


cursedshitbox posted:

IIRC 99 and 00 models had the CDL and it came back for 04 with the 4.6. Those were cable operated whereas the D1 is mechanical. The D2 cases have different gears to make em a little quieter however slightly weaker. CDL swap is a small pain in the balls, I would just swap whole cases when I was into this sort of thing. D2 cases do not have provisions for a VSS like the D1 case does. It's not needed for the D2 as it gets vss information through the abs system via wheel sensors.
That sounds right, yeah, though I've seen some people claim different dates, probably a build year vs model year thing, either way a 2000 should have the guts in there. I think theres a couple of other gotchas if you try and swap the case or parts of the housing from a D1. Low range ratios are ever so slightly different as well as the change in gear cut?

I think the D2 TCs are actually rated a little higher than earlier ones for torque, but they're all pretty strong.

If you're really cheap, dont bother with the linkage, send your kid underneath with a 10mm spanner and they should be able to put the CDL on/off for you...

DapperDraculaDeer
Aug 4, 2007

Shut up, Nick! You're not Twilight.

InitialDave posted:


If your transfer shifter has an H pattern and/or can be moved laterally, or there's a separate unidentified mechanism in the vicinity, you might already have it sorted.



Oh nice, this means its likely already sorted.

I got a shot of the Javik's Heart too. Thats a cool name for a thing.



Zip ties are a common theme for the mod, as well as for the truck as a whole. It feels very appropriate.

I havent had much time to actually work on the truck this week. I did find a good price on a used front sway bar on ebay. Ill order new bushings and linkages this weekend. My wife has made the very reasonable demand that I fix the intake tuning valve on her car before starting work on the truck so that will be my weekend project. I did take a quick peak at the wiring for the two post cat o2 sensors. My hope was this would be an easy fix, like some broken wires in an easily accessible spot, but so far no luck. It looks like all of that wiring is there.I still need to test that they are actually getting power though.

DapperDraculaDeer
Aug 4, 2007

Shut up, Nick! You're not Twilight.

cursedshitbox posted:


The Giubo is a flaming piece of poo poo that belongs on a LR3 or Mershitties/BMtroubleU. Grab a driveline from a D1/rrc and whip it in. Get the flange too.

Im going to be cruising for parts vehicles so I might actually be able to get my hands on one of these. Is the main benefit of doing this going to be reliability due to getting rid of the giubo? Will the driveline drop right in or will I need to resort to some other trickery?

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InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.


DapperDraculaDeer posted:

Oh nice, this means its likely already sorted.
Yeah, if the CDL engages, you should get a light on the dash, and I think it'll flag up ABS/TC warning lights as they should be disengaged when locked?

Though you could just jack up the front and try to turn the prop.

As I said, I can't imagine someone would start chucking axle diffs and more tyre at it without doing the CDL already.

DapperDraculaDeer posted:

Im going to be cruising for parts vehicles so I might actually be able to get my hands on one of these. Is the main benefit of doing this going to be reliability due to getting rid of the giubo? Will the driveline drop right in or will I need to resort to some other trickery?
As CSB said, the axle pinion flange will need swapping to a normal one, I think most people just slap it in without messing with bearing preload etc and get away with it.

See how much a kit to just do it with new parts is, though, I had a look and if seems like you can get everything for maybe $250.

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