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InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.


What year is it?

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InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.


DapperDraculaDeer posted:

This is a 2000.
Cool, it should still have a centre diff lock, then, through if someone's upgraded the axle diffs and half shafts already, I'd be surprised if they hadn't already enabled it.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.


DapperDraculaDeer posted:

This is good! I think. At least I think it is. Im pretty new to 4x4ing and stuff like this. I expect the previous owner did this, Ill have to check with him just to be sure though.
Traditionally, Land Rovers using the LT230 transfer case have a diff lock, so you have high and low range with neutral in the middle, when you move the transfer shifter fore and aft, but you can move the shifter sideways to lock the centre diff and have the same controls.

For the D2, they didn't include the difflock, so they're open-centred and are meant to rely on the traction control system. But on early ones like yours, the internals are all still there! So if you can actuate the difflock, it'll work. You can either use an aftermarket linkage, a linkage from a ~2004 when it was available again with CDL, or the linkage from a D1 should basically work too.

If your transfer shifter has an H pattern and/or can be moved laterally, or there's a separate unidentified mechanism in the vicinity, you might already have it sorted.

DapperDraculaDeer posted:

And is the driveshaft giubo really such a big deal? The original was replaced by the previous owner and he provided the old one as a spare. Will removing it help much with on road comfort?
They're not really up to heavy duty use and will probably eat themselves if you start getting a lot of axle movement going on etc. Fortunately, you should be able to just brap off the pinion yoke, and put on a standard pinion flange to use a traditional UJ driveshaft.

DapperDraculaDeer posted:

Oh, and on a Land Rover whats a javics heart?
The thermostat mod you mentioned, the thermostats are sometimes nicknamed a Jarvik heart because they look like a plastic artificial heart.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.


cursedshitbox posted:

IIRC 99 and 00 models had the CDL and it came back for 04 with the 4.6. Those were cable operated whereas the D1 is mechanical. The D2 cases have different gears to make em a little quieter however slightly weaker. CDL swap is a small pain in the balls, I would just swap whole cases when I was into this sort of thing. D2 cases do not have provisions for a VSS like the D1 case does. It's not needed for the D2 as it gets vss information through the abs system via wheel sensors.
That sounds right, yeah, though I've seen some people claim different dates, probably a build year vs model year thing, either way a 2000 should have the guts in there. I think theres a couple of other gotchas if you try and swap the case or parts of the housing from a D1. Low range ratios are ever so slightly different as well as the change in gear cut?

I think the D2 TCs are actually rated a little higher than earlier ones for torque, but they're all pretty strong.

If you're really cheap, dont bother with the linkage, send your kid underneath with a 10mm spanner and they should be able to put the CDL on/off for you...

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.


DapperDraculaDeer posted:

Oh nice, this means its likely already sorted.
Yeah, if the CDL engages, you should get a light on the dash, and I think it'll flag up ABS/TC warning lights as they should be disengaged when locked?

Though you could just jack up the front and try to turn the prop.

As I said, I can't imagine someone would start chucking axle diffs and more tyre at it without doing the CDL already.

DapperDraculaDeer posted:

Im going to be cruising for parts vehicles so I might actually be able to get my hands on one of these. Is the main benefit of doing this going to be reliability due to getting rid of the giubo? Will the driveline drop right in or will I need to resort to some other trickery?
As CSB said, the axle pinion flange will need swapping to a normal one, I think most people just slap it in without messing with bearing preload etc and get away with it.

See how much a kit to just do it with new parts is, though, I had a look and if seems like you can get everything for maybe $250.

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