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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Seat Safety Switch posted:

This seems like a cry for help, but I also love it. Very excited to see how deep this rabbit hole goes.

Yup.

The antennas are gone. they're in the c/d pillar windows, with amplifiers nearby.
Post your O2 sensor codes.
Also post pics of your jarvics heart delete.
heater core is easy. you don't even need to drop the column. pull the fuse panel kickplate, and all the dashboard mounting hardware at the bottom and middle frames. Remove the radio as there's a bracket behind it. put a thick beach towel on the passenger seat. Lift the dash up and over and sit it on the passenger seat. Driver's side will still be around the column. there's a bracket you'll need to trim with a dremel to slide the heatercore out without evacuating the aircon. Use new o-rings on the core and go easy on the aluminum clamps.

Ditch the rear driveshaft giubo.

cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Aug 4, 2020

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

InitialDave posted:

Traditionally, Land Rovers using the LT230 transfer case have a diff lock, so you have high and low range with neutral in the middle, when you move the transfer shifter fore and aft, but you can move the shifter sideways to lock the centre diff and have the same controls.

For the D2, they didn't include the difflock, so they're open-centred and are meant to rely on the traction control system. But on early ones like yours, the internals are all still there! So if you can actuate the difflock, it'll work. You can either use an aftermarket linkage, a linkage from a ~2004 when it was available again with CDL, or the linkage from a D1 should basically work too.

If your transfer shifter has an H pattern and/or can be moved laterally, or there's a separate unidentified mechanism in the vicinity, you might already have it sorted.


IIRC 99 and 00 models had the CDL and it came back for 04 with the 4.6. Those were cable operated whereas the D1 is mechanical. The D2 cases have different gears to make em a little quieter however slightly weaker. CDL swap is a small pain in the balls, I would just swap whole cases when I was into this sort of thing. D2 cases do not have provisions for a VSS like the D1 case does. It's not needed for the D2 as it gets vss information through the abs system via wheel sensors.

P1590 is the "rough road" shuttlevalve abs code, Ignore it.

The knock sensor code is probably a poo poo knock sensor, they get piping hot because of the obvious hot running rover v8 and just melt to hell. It's a generic Bosch sensor and pretty cheap. There's two and they both kind of suck to get at.

Check for power at the rear O2 sensors, both on the heater circuit and the filament circuit, both plugged in, and not. The sensor can fail shorted.

The Giubo is a flaming piece of poo poo that belongs on a LR3 or Mershitties/BMtroubleU. Grab a driveline from a D1/rrc and whip it in. Get the flange too.

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