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Today was a reorganization day. 1 project and one parking spot was roomy. 2 projects both exploded view is a bit much. There's a shelf next to the garage door playing catch all + car cleaning supplies. I decided to hide all that stuff by the ceiling.  Ditched the old shelves (on the porch) and could push the civic back a few feet.  Now at least I have enough room to pull the band saw or similar tool out and use it. Also got the lift casters mounted to the wall.  This opened up the civics trunk for Ford parts storage. Long term once both cars are assembled there will be a ton more space and Ill have to shuffle everything around into a more permanent home. Waiting on parts to show up now. Once the fuel cell gets here, and installed, I'll swap the ffr and the civic. The ffr does not have spots on the chassis that overhang a 4 post for stands so all the suspension and brakes will be done on the ground.
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May 5, 2022 02:03
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Tubes from summit arrived.  mAndReL BeNt!  Made it a little better with some squeezing in the vise. $20 per vs the $40-60 vibrant wants. Plenty fine for a radiator hose. For a header I'd splurge. I cut everything up and got it ready to tack. Belt sander to make it flat, cartridge roll for the burrs, acetone to clean, and then some solar flux.  Mix with alcohol to the consistency of cream, wait a few minutes, and paint on.  This replaces back purging with argon as a physical barrier to prevent oxidation on the inside of welds. Very brake flare nuts in terms of you have to remember to do it before you start tacking stuff. Tacked up + bracket concept.  Oh yeah I've still got it.  Add some beads to the end due to a lack of a bead roller. Also with fill rod maybe I don't still got it quite so much. Need to order some .040" stainless fill rod too. 1/16th was fine but a little thick.  I couldn't get a shot of the solar flux doing it's thing at the bends but for the beads I could.  Installed.  It might float ok without a bracket but I'd rather have one plus I can use it to secure the p/s line. Thats a tomorrow problem.
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May 6, 2022 02:14
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Lol tomorrow. Got the bracket done finally.  That's installed. Day one was interrupted and a total loss. Yesterday I got it fabbed up but the drill wouldn't fit. Today I grabbed a cheap right angle drill attachment on the way home.  Lol  Lmao. Forgot an installed pic but short bit worked. Also got one header safety wired and booties on the plug wires. If you're an aircraft mechanic look away.  Safety wire is a pain in the rear end and there really isn't enough room around the bolts to do the proper over loop thing to hold tension. I've used the little c-clip with wings bolts too and they're easier. But you lose one little wing/clip at the track and you're checking that bolt all day. Good enough for now. If anyone has any ford header bolts back out pro tips I'm all ears. Maybe loctite studs and aircraft nuts? Aftermarket aluminum heads so that sides got to be gentle.
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May 13, 2022 02:06
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Any tips on bleeding/adjusting 03 accord clutch? i just slapped in a new slave cylinder but the engagement is way way close to the floor, almost an on off switch. Clutch grabs fine, but I'm giving the car to my cousin and it will be her first manual and I want to dial it in perfectly.
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May 13, 2022 20:44
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For clutch slaves I usually bleed with the pedal first then I unbolt the slave from the trans and bleed by pressing with my thumb. edit: make sure you get your hand over the plunger when you unbolt it so the cylinder doesn't come all the way out honda whisperer posted:If anyone has any ford header bolts back out pro tips I'm all ears. Maybe loctite studs and aircraft nuts? Aftermarket aluminum heads so that sides got to be gentle. Idk if the header will be different, but on the Miata I used a combination of Resbond (you can buy a small dropper on ebay), inconel studs, and stage8 locking hardware for the turbo to manifold nuts. I'd hope Resbond alone would do it for you in this case if the safetywire doesn't solve it 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:47 on May 13, 2022 |
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May 13, 2022 21:29
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I've had good luck just bleeding it normally. If there's a bunch of mechanical slop before the pedal starts pushing the master that rod should be adjustable. You want a small amount deadzone but not much. Could also be an issue with the clutch master cylinder or the pedal bracket. I know on the civics of similar generations it's a common problem. For the bracket get where you can see it and push on the pedal by hand. Look for flexing and cracks. Not sure of any way to diagnose the master without swapping it. On the header bolts the safety wire does it ok, it just sucks a lot to do. I'll look into resbond though. Edit: if you do swap the clutch master upload a picture of it. I think you'll have a lot more room vs the civic but if not I found a trick that makes it way easier to replace.
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May 13, 2022 23:17
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Today that same black wrx came back for exhaust work. Someone had a swing set fall out of the back of their truck on the highway and he was blocked in. Bumper, rad, ac condenser, hood, and the exhaust got trashed. Full coverage so the body work was done at a body shop but the exhaust was aftermarket so up it goes. The plan was replace the manifold, leave the up pipe, and do the downpipe back. And the new manifold to up pipe is a 3 bolt flange and existing is 2 bolt. gently caress. Kit came with an up pipe that matched so instant welp this is all day. Exhaust came off easy enough. Had to heat 3 nuts up but it wasn't a terrible fight. Then the up pipe called dibs on my socket.  It stayed here for a long time. I didn't get a lot of in process pics since I didn't want this to be a 2 day thing. New manifold is not like the old manifold. Some clearance massaging required.  Also the 3 bolt flange was not awful but wasn't great to reach either.  I did do the same coating on his header as mine with the leftovers. Probably 1/4 can left so 2 subie headers +???? Per 4 oz can. Exhaust ports to turbo sorted I popped the down pipe on and marked it. This is the big reason its here. Car has a wideband and recommended distance is 18" after the turbo. No bung there though so out comes the tig. I really need a new step drill.  Rest bolted on ok. Idling to cook the coating on during a thunderstorm.  Idk what comes off that stuff when you heat it but it's probably illegal in California. Set a fan and be somewhere else. Torn cv boot, rack boot, and leaking oil filter housing gasket were noted for future repairs. Oil pan rust is not quite but near critical. Valve covers leaking. Timing belt is near 10 years old. Will probably hit the boots and gasket soon ish. The rest is probably an engine out and overhaul or keep sending till something catastrophic fails. Knowing the owner that will either be a just maintenance or built and big power.
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May 15, 2022 02:24
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Valve covers on those are a royal pain in the rear end but timing belts are fine, so definitely do that ASAP!
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May 20, 2022 17:02
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Valve covers on those are a royal pain in the rear end but timing belts are fine, so definitely do that ASAP! Agreed, I did the last timing belt on it and it was straight forward. That's how I know it's been about 10 years. Next week will be 9 years at my current job and since I stopped being a mechanic. Time flies.
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May 20, 2022 22:54
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First autox of the year today. Test and tune so no points but still fun. Fuel cell only shipped Friday so I took the brz. And.... https://youtu.be/-FQyrM-FU1Q Wet grass to. I was sure that was going to end with a crunch. When thr car was stock it defaulted to understeer but could be easily overcome with the throttle. +wheels and tires and it was over tired. It took hucking the car and slamming on the throttle to break the rear loose. Header and a tune and now easy throttle steering is back! Also it pulls all the places it used to bog down. I'm very happy with it. https://youtu.be/RT4ew_ZH50Y Also made friends with a turbo frs and a gr86.   The gr86 was quick. Bone stock he beat me by .2s. I really like its interior and dash too.
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May 23, 2022 00:40
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I laughed at that little look at the wall. Good job not crashing.
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May 23, 2022 13:40
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honda whisperer posted:Torn cv boot, rack boot, and leaking oil filter housing gasket were noted for future repairs. Oil pan rust is not quite but near critical. Valve covers leaking. Timing belt is near 10 years old. Will probably hit the boots and gasket soon ish. The rest is probably an engine out and overhaul or keep sending till something catastrophic fails. Knowing the owner that will either be a just maintenance or built and big power. My old roommate never once did the timing belt on his same-generation WRX (2003 IIRC). Shifter bushings had also checked out, as well as the AC compressor, 3 window regulators.... When the serpentine belt let go, it looked like a pile of shoelaces, but the alternator had locked up (I still have it somewhere... it spins after cooling off, but very rough, and it sounded like marbles in a can for over a year). 170k on that poor timing belt, and you could hear one of the pulleys in there howling like a banshee. I'll give Subaru props for making a hell of a timing belt though. Also had a larger turbo, but no tune at all (he had an Accessport, but didn't want to pay someone to tune it), and blew clouds of blue smoke (probably from the every other year oil changes). The last time I drove it, I'm pretty sure it wasn't boosting at all, but it was throwing so many codes that I didn't even bother trying to find boost codes (I didn't dare wind it up high in case the timing belt let go, but he'd beat on it a bit... my old Outback was able to hang with him until about 30ish, which is just sad). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:57 on May 23, 2022 |
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May 23, 2022 13:53
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builds character posted:I laughed at that little look at the wall. Good job not crashing. Sir Issac Newton gets all the credit. All I did was hold the brake and clutch down. STR posted:My old roommate never once did the timing belt on his same-generation WRX (2003 IIRC). Shifter bushings had also checked out, as well as the AC compressor, 3 window regulators.... When the serpentine belt let go, it looked like a pile of shoelaces, but the alternator had locked up (I still have it somewhere... it spins after cooling off, but very rough, and it sounded like marbles in a can for over a year). Oh that poor car.
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May 23, 2022 14:42
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Trust me, I felt horrible for the car. I babied that poor thing every time I drive it. I think I took it to 5k once, and I was shocked at how absolutely gutless it felt (but given the amount of smoke, either the turbo or rings had exited the chat a long time ago). I've driven my share of Subarus, ALL OF THEM N/A except for this one... this thing was way down on power compared to even an NA Subaru. Remember I said my Outback could hang up to about 30? It was a 2003 Outback wagon with an automatic... it tipped the scales at something stupid like 4000 pounds, with 150 hp. It was HEAVY. It was slow as balls. I think it ran 18s in the 1/4 mile. The 4 cylinder version of the Geo Metro could run away and hide from me without realizing we were racing. Priuses laughed at me. The irony is... I was the only one who could reliably find 1st, 2nd, and reverse. I could find them easier than he could; he put 150k of those miles on, I put maybe 50 miles on it. Found reverse first time every time (it took him anywhere from 3-15 tries for reverse, and he often would catch 4th instead of 2nd when upshifting). The shifter was leaning far left, but after driving it a block or so I had a good feel for it. Clutch was pretty done, but wasn't slipping yet and still had a decent feel. I'm not sure what that says about me - I've owned a ton of manual cars, but most of them had the older style Honda shifters (rods, not cables). The only non-Honda manuals I've owned have been 2 Saturns and 1 Nissan; I know the Saturns had cable shifters, I don't remember what the Nissan had (99 Altima). The only Honda I had with a cable shifter was an 01 Accord. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:23 on May 23, 2022 |
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May 23, 2022 15:16
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I think a lot of times it comes down to dictating to the car vs asking. Usually there's some feedback. Bushing slop feels like air, then the fork goes over and it's got a feel, and then with experience a little more or less and it plops right into gear. Most people seem to just "it should be here" and crunch.
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May 23, 2022 17:34
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That wall came up quick  Glad it worked out in the end, but drat.
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May 23, 2022 17:36
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Yeah it did. My brain had just enough time to shift from "crap" to "both feet in" to "oh noo" and it was over. And none of those were fully articulated thoughts. More like uh/habit/nooo oh thank god.
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May 24, 2022 02:44
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Oh goddamn, I just now watched that video. Title is misleading though, it didn't plow through a crowd.  I'd still be pulling threads from my pants out of my rear end if that happened to me, but I'm also not a great driver. I'll hoon around in the rain/snow in an empty parking lot, that's about the most I've ever done.
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May 24, 2022 15:11
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honda whisperer posted:Yeah it did. My brain had just enough time to shift from "crap" to "both feet in" to "oh noo" and it was over. And none of those were fully articulated thoughts. Yikes. Glad all is ok in the end.
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May 24, 2022 23:26
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Yesterday I swung by harbor ight tools. One race car straightener.   Basically a super bottle jack with attachments. Opened the space for the fuel cell back up. Today new hotness arrived.  Took it apart thinking I would have to swap the pump and whatnot over.  Annnd it already has 2 fuel pumps and was ready to go. And a level sender! This will be an upgrade over run till it starts to burble mid corner and PIT SUPRISE. Never actually seen one work well either but it's been 10 years. Reassembling these is fun because there's a ring inside that you have to hold up to the inside of the cell, line up, gasket, flange, then bolts. Not awful but fiddly for sure. Now... how to get it back in. Out was gravity, violence, and a scissor jack. I need opposite gravity and don't have a tall transmission jack, or any transmission jack.  Ratchet straps to the rescue. Then prybar, ratchet, hammer, ratchet etc until it walked in.  It does not fit well. Way to tight. Chassis welds and the fuel cell welds are interference fit for sure. Since it's a soft bladder inside an aluminum box I think it's OK. Next time it comes out I'm cuting all that poo poo out and making my own setup for it though. Not gonna scope creep this like the civic though.
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May 28, 2022 02:45
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Welp. Got a new toolbox yesterday, neighbor came over to help me unload it. Plan for today: Put pork butt on smoker. Help neighbor do brakes on his civic. Help another friend fix his kia window. More ppl come over. Pulled pork tacos and beers. Actual day: Put pork butt on smoker. Neighbor calls to let me know he's got covid. Cancel all plans, tell neighbor next weekend. Neighbor sends it anyway.  One leave it on my porch later.  He has also now stripped the threads on the bracket on the other side too. I'm glad he told me he's got covid, poo poo happens it's cool at least you're not a foil hat but gently caress just wait the week your brakes aren't shot yet. Pulled at 160  It's in the oven wrapped in foil now. Sad tacos later.
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May 29, 2022 21:03
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I kept trying to bleed the clutch on the 03 accord I picked up for my cousin, and couldn't get it right - i took off the slave cyl and someone had welded an extension on it so it seemed like the clutch still had some life, super janky. Just going to get a new clutch and replace the master and slave cyl. Im guessing $800-1k in labor if I bring my own clutch kit and flywheel?
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May 31, 2022 00:42
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Or they put in an aftermarket one and needed more travel? A clutch should either work or not, messing with the fork arm should only change the pedal effort and travel. As for labor I'm not a k series guy. I've worked on some but I don't think I've ever put a clutch in one. Post pics of the modification before you throw any money at it. In other news, I found a home for the sticker I got from AI SS.  I did not realize it was rainbow chrome before putting it on and its glorious. I now know where maybe 30% of my tools are but it's still better somehow. Gonna take a while to sort out where everything goes. Before    After   I took an inventory before this started and ordered replacement gear wrenches to replace all the lost ones. 3d printed organizers will probably happen too. Fuel cell is all the way in. Lines are 90%. Bulkhead to the return and that's done.   Ordered parts for the filler. Going back to the le mans style that has a cap on the outside of the body. While that ships I hope to swap the civic for the ffr and start in on the brakes and suspension.
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May 31, 2022 02:55
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This is my 93 eg hatch, I think I posted it in this thread a few years ago when i purchased it but it sat for a while then slowly I started doing stuff to it. I purchased a k24 to swap and still have it but am not gonna do the swap. Probably a b when this blows up. It's a D15b7 and with stock block/head and a precision 52xx with ebay bov and wastegate. I have it at 13 pounds of boost right now and my afr was good till high boost in 3rd gear then was taking a dump. Also put a stage 3 clutch and fixed all the broken stuff. Put plexiglass and it's completly gutted, probably too much. It needs a harness bar at the least right now as driving it is sketchy on the roads with so much exposed metal. It's probably 1600lbs I will weight soon. I have a set of 4 15 inch hoosers all around and some black Ricaros in right now. I just purchased some red NRGs tho Im gonna clean and throw in though. So... for the last 2 months been having what i thought was boost cut issues so i kept rerouting poo poo to no avail. Checked everything and could not find a problem anywhere with fuel, spark, air or so i thought. A few days ago the fuel pump took a poo poo so I put in a osias 340. Car still barely ran but realized the pump i took out was all ready modified and had no screen so I changed the fuel filter which was nasty and car started running like a dream after! So that's why I'm posting I feel like its finally ready done and ready for a tune!?    I have black ricaros but I like these better: One is broken gonna weld it to a fixed position before putting it in I think.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKdiVVMO92k This is from 2 months ago with half the boost its on now and the distributer died shortly after. So one more thing I have a vtec head from a block with a bent rod, I'm heavily debating it! And tomorrow im hard wiring the fuel pump with a relay to something else because im getting shaky voltage at the pump currently so I need to fix that for sure too. But it was a nice feeling smelling a lot of gas again! Fallows fucked around with this message at 23:28 on May 31, 2022 |
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May 31, 2022 23:16
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I would not weld that seat. It's basically your seat belt for a rear end crash. It will be under insane forces in even a slow collision. Also depending on why and how it's broken I would be looking very side eyed at the other seat. Recaro at least is a highly respected seat manufacturer. Since they make oem and FIA certified stuff they'll have the engineering and testing for sure. If you're going to do the vtec head do it before tuning. Or rods and pistons and have a higher boost single cam ready. Why no k24? Even na they rip in an eg.
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May 31, 2022 23:47
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This is my first build ever, I learned to drive stick in it, and while the car sits at my friends mobil again and is coverd in stickers i would say im an above average lube tech and only worked there for like 8 months. So the k24 swap overwhelmed me and is part of the reason the car just sat for years. But it's still pretty far out of my expertise, especially the wiring. It's a possibility though for sure. I should do rods/pistons they are so cheap for this motor and my friends would definitly help as I have only torn motors apart, never back together. Yea the Ricaros feel way more sturdy than the NRGs and are more comfortable. It's only the look I was going for so what you're saying actually makes me want to just resell these all ready because safety > all.
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Jun 1, 2022 00:03
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Ah gotcha. Yeah first build can be overwhelming af. My first b16 swap I think took a whole day just on the wiring and it was 4 wires that had to be added. Since you haven't built a motor and have a spare I'd leave what's in your car alone and work on the spare as time and funds allow. Actually I've never built an engine myself. Everywhere I've worked on cars always had someone with non zero experience at that and they got to do it. It feels extra weird now that I work in a machine shop. $.02 from watching other people do it, experienced peeps correct me if I'm wrong. Make a plan, take what you have apart, measure it, have it machined, measure it again, order parts to fit the machine work, measure those parts, assemble, cross fingers, and then send it. Or if everything looks great skip the machine work? It's cheaper but Hondas aren't known for their engines being forgiving of anything out of spec. This all depends on having or access to the measuring tools you'll need. Just micrometers and a dial bore gauge good god they're expensive. A good question is what do you want the car to be? Street car? Drag? Autox/track? In Ford news, EVERY ONE CHANGE PLACES!  That was way to much work. If the lift is in the right place to work on a car on the lift I can't fit anything out the gap that's left. So Install casters, shove lift over, remove casters, install ramps, push car into driveway, position civic, remove wheel casters, push outside, push onto lift, push ffr back in, position it, onto stands... sweaty af and I changed parking spots. I'm leaving the lift way over now though for room to work on stands. Also I'm tempted to lower the brz soonish just to ditch this.  It clears...
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Jun 1, 2022 01:51
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honda whisperer posted:
What other color could it possibly be? 
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Jun 1, 2022 12:18
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With the paper on top it looked white. Made for a hell of a reveal. Thanks again!
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Jun 1, 2022 13:57
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Wiring! New tank came with 2 fuel pumps so changes were required. Some googling showed walbros can pull up to 15 amps so while 1 30amp relay would probably be fine I figured eh I'll just slap a second one in there and update some other stuff. In progress  Buttoned up.  I did the last wiring refresh on this thing years ago and learned some things since then, and experienced some frustrations with how it was. First, the racepak needed moved forward. They need to be mounted flat and square for the g sensors to work right. But it got installed with the body on where I could reach. The cable to the dash was just short enough for the routing to be annoying to the driver. Like you could elbow it shifting. 2nd the old relay was in the way of pulling the fuel cells cover panel. It got installed further forward with a friend. 3rd due to AI I learned about the best battery terminals ever. I don't remember which thread but yeah beats the pants off those lead nightmares that just clamp the wire on with bolts. 4th added the wiring for the fuel level sender. All this meant replacing or extending and terminating a ton of wires. And replenishing my stocks of terminals in all shapes and sizes. And reupping on rivets. God darn this thing is made of rivets. Is the harbor freight air powered rivet gun any good? I'm thinking 3d printed battery terminal covers. Their shape is weird af now so seems like a solid route. With any luck I'll get the rear body on tomorrow, fab up the fuel filler setup, and start this thing to the horror of most of my neighbors. Well except for one at least. Someone that lives down the street wandered into the garage to say hi today. Wanted to know what the hell my brz was and that he liked it. Proceeded to then tell street racing stories mixed with throwing shade at cops stories for an hour while I crimped stuff. E: oh yeah almost forgot.  Needs a razor on the end instead of serrated but lmao. Idk how many hundreds of rolls of electrical tape I've gone through and just never dawned on me till today. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jun 5, 2022 |
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Jun 5, 2022 01:19
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I'm stealing the poo poo out of that tape idea, good lord.
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Jun 5, 2022 01:29
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BlackMK4 posted:I'm stealing the poo poo out of that tape idea, good lord.
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Jun 5, 2022 01:32
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SAME! Also be ready to be let down it doesn't cut like scotch tape stock.
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Jun 5, 2022 01:47
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i could swear that ive bought electrical tape on a dispenser before; it had one giant spike in the middle to cut it, rather than the little serrations e: i think im thinking of this kind 
Raluek fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Jun 5, 2022 |
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Jun 5, 2022 02:08
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honda whisperer posted:Buttoned up. Clean wiring is so worth the extra bit of time it takes. I hate cleaning up other people's wiring disasters but it's so satisfying to compare before and after. Grabbing that tape idea, that's a good one.
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Jun 5, 2022 10:49
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NitroSpazzz posted:Clean wiring is so worth the extra bit of time it takes. I hate cleaning up other people's wiring disasters but it's so satisfying to compare before and after. Agreed completely. Future project is to install the fuel level gauge and headlights. I remember setting the dash up to not be hell to remove. Weather pak connectors so not amazing but also not disconnect every switch and gauge to remove. I HOPE. Today I skipped autocross to work on this thing some more. It's a beautiful day but I looked up the entries last night and there were 97 drivers signed up. Knowing the SCCA in my area that means 4 runs for 8am to 4pm. Meh. Step 1 install the body. I can just get the back on by myself. If it had nice paint I couldn't solo it but it's already scratched to hell. This thing was clearly designed with easy service in mind /s   The pics don't do it justice but it's fiddly and the body is under some stress to line it up. The rear bolts are worse and basically impossible to photograph. 1 finger on thr head of a bolt, hand all contorted to get there while jiggling the body, all feel install. If all goes to plan and it looks like it'll be a regular thing I'm gonna install dzus fastners everywhere. Body on I need to go from a to b.  Hmm. The body wasn't on when I ordered parts. I felt super smart with the 45 elbow to clear the inner fender, then 90 up with aluminum. I should have gotten a soft 90 and just pie cut a straight part. But I can make this work and it won't be bad. Trimmed some material from the straight leg of the 90, gave it a little kick, and lined up the leftover half.  Cut 1" out of the bottom straight to both move it over and make up the gap. No pics of tacking and fitment adjustments. Welded up.  And in.  Tried something new too. I hit all the soft elbows with keg lube. It's basically a grease for assembly of food making machines or in my case kegs. That all plopped together without the usual new rubber vs metal stickiness. Finished off the last 3' of fuel return line and installed the vent line. Refilled the p/s, coolant, and checked the oil. Hooked up the battery and powered everything up to check for smoke or bad noise, good there. Dumped 3 gal in the tank, turned on the pumps again. Still good. https://youtu.be/ZO3z6bJQPz0
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Jun 5, 2022 21:31
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It lived. It died. It lives again!
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Jun 6, 2022 00:45
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honda whisperer posted:Ah gotcha. Yeah first build can be overwhelming af. My first b16 swap I think took a whole day just on the wiring and it was 4 wires that had to be added. Btw didnt mean to try and hijack your thread, your build got me super excited lol. I want it to be a daily drag car really. It's driving awesome right, rich and untuned after a ton more work. I put a ton of miles on it the last 2 days. I don't wan't to blow this motor up because I dont wanna wreck the Precision turbo but I am gonna order a B motor real soon and mayyybe build the head on that for a swap hopefully by summer. I don't even know if that necessary I just want to make 250ish hp I think I just maybe with a decent manifold and the turbo that is achievable. Do you have a recommendation for cheap electronic boost control? I'm having a heck of a time with manual ones. I had never really look at the registration and turned out it was not a 93 but a 92 so I got a antique plate for it as well 
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Jun 9, 2022 23:06
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Don't sweat it, this can be an all things honda/Acura thread. It's not like I'm updating constantly. You can make 250whp on a turbo b16 with a terrible setup so don't sweat that. A nice setup will be better but a small turbo on a log manifold will work fine. And be a blast. I'm not in love with the super high hp Hondas. As for the boost controller electric is only worth it if you want to be able to setup stuff like gear dependant boost. What's your current boost controller and wastegate setup? What spring pressure in the wastegate? What psi are you targeting and what's going wrong? I like these kind of puzzles so just post.
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Jun 10, 2022 00:35
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 04:16 |
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I have a 10lb spring in right now, and after a second or two of wot and full boost at 10lbs it just starts stuttering and drops boost then builds back up. My friend says a tune will fix this. I also have a 5lb spring I am going to put in, which was in originally and I don't think I had the boost cutting out issue with it but I want more than 5lbs. I don't remember the brand of boost controller, it was donated off a friends evo, but i think its no good and I have another coming tomorrow: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J6766A?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details edit: I also have another modded Ecu that has boost by gear and 2step but my old boss broke one of the chip pins, so if i fix it and find it, it works no problem. Fallows fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Jun 10, 2022 |
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Jun 10, 2022 00:51
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