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49 Nm is like 36 foot-lbs. Surprised you didn't break the bolt off.
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Oct 11, 2020 22:17
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Suburban Dad posted:49 Nm is like 36 foot-lbs. Surprised you didn't break the bolt off. But it's that plus 90 degrees of rotation. So snug, then a full quarter turn. I had to put a knee on the block to keep it on the ground.
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Oct 11, 2020 23:20
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I made a little bit of progress on the CRX. A couple weeks ago I got tired of waiting for my buddy to come help me and installed my new gas tank and Walbro 255 fuel pump. It was a bitch by myself, positioning the tank and twisting all of the hoses to the correct location was a PITA. Last Friday I had some free time and had delusions I would get the rear disc swap completed, throw the front struts in, throw the new driver's seat in, change the oil and start the car. The rear disc swap came from a DA integra and the rear trailing arm bushings were shot. I bought some Hard Race solid rubber bushings to install into the rear arms. The internet makes it sound like it's a piece of cake, well, it's not. No amount of hammering would get them to go in. I finally had to take a pair of c-clamps and clamp the bushing down, hit it on opposite sides a couple of times, tighten the clamps, hit, tighten, hit until the bushings slowly went into position.  Figuring out how to do that and how to do it without waking up our baby took me way too much time so I only got one of the rear arms in and fully assembled.  Used F&F version 1 or whatever (non-adjustable dampening, got them for $200 for a temporary setup), Voodoo 13 LCAs, Skunk2 camber adjusters. I bought Chase Bays steel-braided lines but they didn't fit (way too long). Also installed new e-brake cables. (easy to do when the tank is out) Pretty funny that the front has more fender gap on the ground then the rear does fully decompressed.  
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Oct 12, 2020 07:09
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I haven't been impressed with any chase bays stuff yet. Also solo gas tank on the ground sucks. Those trailing arm bushings are a pain too. Looking good so far though. I've got a set of DA arms and discs for my project too. Got the intake manifold off the running engine along with the whole engine harness. Not sure yet how I'm going to attack the updated one. It's got some massive plastic tank under it blocking all the bolts on the bottom. I've got a new water pump on the way so I'll pull that and the massive bracket holding it on and hope I can sneak a gear wrench in there. New parts, mainly the intake gasket get here Friday so if I can get it all sorted tomorrow I'll shoot for installing this mess this weekend. 
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Oct 15, 2020 02:05
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honda whisperer posted:Standing there, proud of my accomplishments for the day, I saw this. Heyyyyyoooo. glyph posted:K24a4. Just a heads up the 07 has a DBW throttle body (and a k24a8), and the 05 has a cable throttle. Probably best for sanity’s sake to take the entire intake plenum off the 07 and swap that to the new engine- you can’t just swap throttle bodies over- there’s a different cutout for the cabled ones’ IACV . Also if one is manual and one auto, the auto has an extra vacuum fitting on the plenum for the front motor mount. Edit: honda whisperer posted:Got the intake manifold off the running engine along with the whole engine harness. Not sure yet how I'm going to attack the updated one. It's got some massive plastic tank under it blocking all the bolts on the bottom. That black box on the inside of the 07 intake manifold is a resonator (unfortunately tricky to delete and plug the hole without some creativity and machining). You should be able to get a socket on an extension through the intake runners to get to the studs. It’s probably too late now, but I have two RBB (TSX) intake manifolds if you want one. E2. DO NOT FORGET THE BUNG FOR THE MOTOR MOUNT VACUUM. It loving SUCKS to either forget to connect it or cap it. Ask me how I know. glyph fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 19:10
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Damnit I are good at reading. Thanks for the heads up even if I glazed over it. I went ahead and split the intake in half and it got so much easier to manage. Should have everything buttoned up tonight so I can try to install it after work tomorrow. Going to leave the resonator in and the whole mess as stock as possible. Edit: what's the upshot on the tsx manifold? K-series stuff is all pretty new to me. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 19:49
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Had to swap the starter too. Different plug on it. Probably a non issue to swap the plug or power side of the harness but eh 2 bolts. Got the rest of the intake on, water pump and tensioner pulley replaced, and a new oil filter. Almost all the wiring is buttoned up on the engine side. Picked up atf and coolant today too so I should be ready to drop it in tomorrow. I'd start on it now but using the engine crane is way more comfortable with the car half out of the garage and I don't want to be up all night so I can push it back in.  I think honda might have some toyota tacoma envy going on here.
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Oct 16, 2020 23:58
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LOL. Yeah, lots of gaskets look like the old cock'n'balls.
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Oct 17, 2020 04:47
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  It's alive! No leaks yet, waiting on the thermostat to open and burp the coolant. I forgot how long hondas need to idle up to temp. Once I clean everything up back to the actual good project.
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Oct 17, 2020 22:53
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Hell yeah, nice work getting it running 
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Oct 18, 2020 19:16
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Thanks! After driving it for a bit it needs some more work but the swap seems solid. Mainly brakes, they work well but sound and feel like hell. Also sway bar end links and tires. God these tires are poo poo. 3 different types too! I haven't decided if it turns left or right better yet. I asked in the audio thread but I might as well ask here too. Anyone have a recommendation on a remote starter? I'm leaning towards cheap, it doesn't need a ton of features and IDGAF about adding an alarm.
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Oct 18, 2020 21:00
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honda whisperer posted:Those trailing arm bushings are a pain too. Looking good so far though. I've got a set of DA arms and discs for my project too. When I was looking for info on things recently I came across this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9bmFNsziTU Looks like the DA arms widen the rear track by about an inch. Fine for a drag or street car, but has implications on a track day car. Not sure if you knew that, but figured id let you know. If I had it to do over again, I'd do the EK rear arms with DC rear hubs like he shows in the video. I've already gone to the trouble of installing the DA arms with new bushings into the car so I'll just deal with it until it becomes a problem I need to solve. Congrats on getting the swap running! A swap like that with PS/AC etc is a big job. No pics, but for progress I put in the DA trailing arm on the other side earlier this week, threw in the front coilovers, changed the oil and started the car. (on the stock engine) I went to take it for a drive, apparently I didn't bleed the brakes enough so I had to use the e-brake to stop the car a couple of times. I'll get to that hopefully later this week. This car has 350k miles on it, the head sounds like a sewing machine and the main input shaft bearing sounds TERRIBLE. Thankfully I don't have to drive it far before I do the swap.
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Oct 18, 2020 22:15
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Holy poo poo I had no idea. I'll have to do some measuring. I'm pretty sure they're off a DA but not 100% positive.
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Oct 18, 2020 23:55
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Got back at the good project today. When I got distracted by the accord I had finished welding the front and back halves of the cage outside the car and gotten them back in and everything tacked together. Warmed up a bit with some scrap metal then climbed in and welded the halo to the main hoop where I could reach.  Everything joined together I cut the tacks odd the base plates and prayed I drilled holes in the right spots to drop the whole thing down a few inches. First time trying this method.  Not perfect but close enough I can just pull each tube over a bit to line it up. Annnd thunk. Last one lined up and it drops about an inch.   I am a dumbass. When I got the a pillar bars sorted I got ahead of myself and made the dash bar and just kept welding. I'm debating now should I drill the spot welds on the steering mount and try to put that back in, cut it out and make my own, or say gently caress it and poke holes in the roof (probably not this one). Custom mount would allow for a lot of adjustmemts I wouldn't otherwise be able to do....
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Oct 20, 2020 02:10
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After 2 days of driving the accord with no stereo, and my other option being fixing my own gently caress up, I cleaned my gutters. That went faster than expected so I "fixed" the accord stereo too. Original owner had thrown in a boss receiver at some point. My neighbor who initially bought the non running car cut it out and then failed to successfully install it in his car. I slapped it back in. It's not great but it beats cellphone speaker in a cup holder by miles. Front right speaker is blown out so I pushed it 100% rear for now. Fixed the busted glove box too. No pics because boring af. Then I turned to the civic. I decided on drilling the spot welds. I could always escalate from there. So I made a weird bed of accord floor mats and cardboard, laid down with my head where the pedals go, and drilled up.   Not perfect but more than good enough that I can weld it back in later with minimal effort. I'll call that a win. So I dropped the cage down.  It actually worked.  Plenty of room now. I could have put the front on stands and gotten more space but after assembling the smallest torch I could there was enough room so I went for it.  Not artisanal welds but I'm ok with it. I'll knock out the other side tomorrow, bring the whole thing back up and start finish welding the base plates to the chassis, then weld the cage to them. Of all the ways I've seen it done I think this is the best yet. Even if you can get the welder where you need it, and at the correct angle, you still need to be able to see wtf you're doing. Dropping it through the floor gave all 3.
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Oct 21, 2020 02:02
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Nice, nice.
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Oct 21, 2020 09:31
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 Passenger side fully welded too. Last bit was fabricating a diagonal brace for the halo.  That's tacked in. Will weld it tomorrow then start on rasing the cage back up and doing the base plates.
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Oct 22, 2020 02:26
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Got a call from Costco today, snow tires came in for the accord. Surprisingly they fit me in same day. The drive home was night and day. No vibrations at all up to 80 at which point I called it good and floated the rest of the way home. Remote start showed up in the mail too so that's this weekend's project. Got home and started welding. Out of position welding sucks. Got the diagonal done and forgot to take a picture. It had some surface rust on the top so I cleaned that up and hit everything that was about to be hard to reach with some primer.  Then I welded up the front base plates, and hauled the whole mess back up.   Tomorrow I'll mig the plates to the chassis then start welding the cage to the plates. I really hope I left enough room everywhere to access it well. If not I've been eyeballing micro torches for the tig. The amperage range I would need requires a water cooled torch though. I could diy a water-cooler. Or use the air cooled one above rated but very briefly. I'll burn that bridge when I get to it though. Outside this project id almost never need the water cooling.
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Oct 23, 2020 03:00
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Looking good!
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Oct 23, 2020 22:40
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Nice, nice. 4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:Looking good! I appreciate the support. I'm gonna bitch and moan for a second. I know we've got a huge range of people here from all levels of experience, so ill explain a bit for those who haven't experienced out of position welding. Disclaimer I'm not a professional welder, so if I might be wrong / please correct me if I am. In an ideal world you weld stuff sitting in a chair, at a bench, with both your arms supported, and with a great view of what you're doing. I can do this decently, and I'd choose torch in my right hand, fill rod in my left, and using my right foot on the pedal to control the amps. Here's where I was tonight.   I will now attempt to weld with the pedal under my left foot, out the driver door and on the lift / right leg tucked under my rear end on the floor of the car, torch in the left hand, fill rod in the right. I fold myself into this position, flip my mask down, and then stuff my head under the dash bar, and immediately dunk the tungsten in the weld pool.  I now climb out of the car, fire up the grinder, and return it to this.  So I can climb back in repeat this process.  So if you're ever comparing to welds, say left vs right where the base plate meets the vertical plates, out of position welding suuucks. And yes I could just MIG it but I have way more experience with the TIG and the MIG I'm borrowing is at its absolute limit doing 1/8" vs 1/8" welds. It's awesome for sheet metal but not ideal for heavier stuff. Base plates almost done. Then cage vs baseplates, then doors and door bars!
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Oct 24, 2020 02:36
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I learned to weld in various positions (mig) but the momentary blasts in weird positions don't feel bad at all. ...and then you start working on cars laying on your back trying to wedge your head into a wheel well and it suddenly becomes the worst poo poo ever. Tig seems like a huge ball ache in situations like that.
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Oct 25, 2020 11:28
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For sure. No sparks though! Laying under a mig weld vs the hassle of tig has it's upsides. I kind of want to make a welding blanket snuggie for the former case though. Base plates are 90% done and the remote starter works but is just temp installed to check function. About to start tucking it in and finalising the wiring. If that goes well I'll do a small stereo upgrade, call the accord done for now, and get back on the civic.
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Oct 25, 2020 17:19
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 Pyrex cup where have you been all my life? I ordered a kit off Amazon for $25 and I'll be damned if it isn't the best thing ever. The fit wasn't perfect but gently caress $25. Per the GCR all welds shall be full and continuous.  Full  And  Continuous  They're not welding porn but damnit all 6 places the cage meets the chassis are finished, welded 360 degrees, and I didn't have to spurt mig at a 10 deg angle at any point. I'm thinking about taking up yoga. That or starting a new yoga for welders program. Finished just in time too.  Going for a refill tomorrow morning. The local place got bought out by airgas and I hate it. They make bankers look flexible on hours and jacked the prices on everything. Bitching aside, new milestone.   Edit: if you have two cents of x-bars vs nascar bars I'm listening. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Oct 28, 2020 |
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Oct 28, 2020 03:25
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Either are viable, but avoid S bends if you go the Nascar route.
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Oct 28, 2020 12:49
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Nascar bars are really nice on the drivers side for a little more space. Even if you don't need the space for seat or anything else it's nicer than you realize. Passenger throw some x-bars and call it good unless you expect a lot of passengers or want it to match. edit: Looks like you still have complete door trim, not sure if you plan on keeping it. Even with trim you can get another couple inches with nascar bars.
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Oct 28, 2020 13:34
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Doors are getting gutted, just hung them for easy work holding while I disassemble and chop them up. I assume by s bends you mean the way a lot of them start parallel to the car, bend out, then bend back? If so yeah I'll avoid that.
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Oct 28, 2020 16:09
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  Spent the past two days adding lightness to the passenger door. Stopped tonight with the factory door bar half out. I'm trying to drill out it's spot welds but I think part is glued to the door skin.
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Oct 30, 2020 03:54
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 Yep glued to the door skin. That one puzzled me for a while. Heat gun didn't do it, prying on it would trash the skin. I wound up sawing it out with some mig wire and that worked really well. That was a serious and heavy bar. Started in on the driver's door after that.  Round two went a lot faster. Needs cleaned up and that bar removed. I'm debating between adding brackets to reinforce the stock interior door handle setup or the whole pull cable nylon webbing thing. Mostly I want it to be really easy and reliable to open from the inside.
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Oct 31, 2020 02:59
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I spent most of last Wednesday putting in the Skunk2 camber arms front and rear and lowering the car to what I feel is a good ride height. Also fitted my 5zigen wheels onto it and took it for a spin. It’s slow as hell on the stock HF engine but still enjoyable as it brings back a lot of good memories of my previous CRX. Next time I find time to work on it, I’m going to try and get the engine onto an engine stand so I can start working on replacing all of the seals. 
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Nov 1, 2020 09:10
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Looks great. All the bolts come out or was it time for the sawzall? Edit: also what did you end up doing for rear brake lines? honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Nov 1, 2020 |
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Nov 1, 2020 14:22
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 That made a sound. Right front inner pad. Less than 250 miles on the accord since I finished the engine swap. They were ready. I'll never understand people who can wear their rotors clean through. No amount of turning the stereo up could hide what was happening. Fairly even wear though. New pads and rotors installed.  IDK who designed this style endlink. Maybe theres some amazing benefit I'm unaware of. But if there isn't I hope they spend eternity replacing rusty versions of this design.  New ones in. Between that and the fresh brakes it should be much improved. Going to flush the brake fluid tomorrow. Should be a proper beater after that. If not there's always AAA.
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Nov 3, 2020 02:57
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honda whisperer posted:Looks great. All the bolts come out or was it time for the sawzall? I only had one stuck bolt that the electric impact couldn't break. Thankfully I have a parts car, a totaled '88 CRX to steal bolts from. As for the brake lines, the DA arms I purchased still had the brake lines attached so I used those. Unfortunately when I went to bleed the fronts, the front passenger corner bleeder stripped, even using a line wrench. One of my next projects is to take the front knuckles off of the 88 base model, install new bearings/hubs/ball joints so I have them ready when I do the swap on the HF. I'm going to be using a fast brakes kit to convert to 11" front rotors with Integra front calipers, but I can't install them until I'm ready to do the motor swap since the axle splines are different between the HF and base model CRXs. I'm having fun driving the CRX as is right now. I still need to get a new windshield, new paint, then I'll be starting the swap.
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Nov 6, 2020 19:31
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Guy where I work has a 90 hatch with the fastbrake kit and loves it. Type r swapped too so works well even with more power.
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Nov 6, 2020 21:12
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Got the doors gutted. Figured if I'm gonna make door bars, or at least mock them up I should bite the bullet and finish mounting the seat and double check everything there first. Wheels and pedals lightly tacked/bolted in. Seat mounted.  Not quite a full hand width but roomy enough. I'll probably push the seat forward bit, keep the height the same, and then bring the wheel closer. I'd like a little more space between me and the main hoop. Everything else looks good to push forward though.
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Nov 8, 2020 01:29
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OK, time for the list. I know I'm missing a lot but this is the start. Ill chuck it in the op too and update it there / as it goes in the thread. I'll happily take advise and good ideas or blind spots I'm missing. I'll also use this to start sorting the order of operations of what comes next. Stuff I have to do Brakes - check rules and choose what to run -Measure those brakes -Select master cylinder -Select brake bias setup -Order parts and fit -Run brake lines -get pads and rotors and ???? -build brake cooling ducts Fuel -Decide if used tanks are workable / order new tank -Mount tank -Make access panel so I don't have to drop the tank to get at the pump -Pick and mount fuel filter -Run fuel send and return -Roll over valve Safety -Pick and mount kill switch -Pick and mount fire suppression -Pick and mount window net -Pick and install belts -Add passenger seat for instructor (and probably window net too) -fancy mirror Suspension -Decide what I want to buy for all of this -Bushings -shocks/coil overs/spring selection -rehab sway bars I have -order wheel bearings/hubs/tie rods/ball joints -wheel studs -toe/camber bits more easily adjustable than stock Body -Mount everything and make it suck less -Paint -Get windshield installed -Stickers! Engine/Drivetrain -Timing belt, water pump, tensioner -get an obd1 dizzy -mount ecu -design wiring -mil connector at firewall? -solid state setup? -datalogging/dash? -axles -hondata -dyno tune -header/exhaust -intake -cooling system -oil cooler Misc -Defroster something. Rain sucks. Blind in the rain suck harder. -Cool suit / air something?
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Nov 8, 2020 02:29
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Man, I am envious of the amount of head room you've got in that car. Nice to see you keep plugging away at your list.
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Nov 8, 2020 03:55
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BlackMK4 posted:Man, I am envious of the amount of head room you've got in that car. Stop buying tiny convertibles then.
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Nov 8, 2020 04:03
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Does anyone offer an extra tall hardtop/cage kit for miatas? I know there are kits to push the seat as low and far back as possible.
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Nov 8, 2020 04:50
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Typically you lower the floor vs raising the roof. At least in the spec miatas.
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Nov 8, 2020 04:53
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 13:39 |
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Yes, for SM. You take points in NASA ST and TT for it though 
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Nov 8, 2020 05:16
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