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I've surfed in the PNW before. I thought it was a lot of fun and a great way to spend a couple days on the beach. It really reminded me of tobogganing where most of the work goes into getting where you need to be in order to actually do the thing, and once you're there it's only a brief moment of joy before you either crash and burn or come to a stop. It's just fun enough to keep doing it over and over again until you've become so exhausted that you can no longer keep your internal body temperature up. Bigger waves in more popular locations probably offer a completely different experience.
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Sep 16, 2020 21:59
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| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 03:35 |
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