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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007






I would assume "free RV" is even less free than "free car" and your descriptions seem to be validating such an assumption.

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theparag0n
May 4, 2007

INITIATE STANDING FLIRTATION PROTOCOL beep boop

I think "Free RV" is somewhere between "Free car" and "Free boat" in the list of most expensive objects in the universe

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003

how few people do you
need before you can
change the world?


theparag0n posted:

I think "Free RV" is somewhere between "Free car" and "Free boat" in the list of most expensive objects in the universe

I made $300 of the Free T Cruiser.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself





Rhyno posted:

I made $300 of the Free T Cruiser.

Long term health effects not taken into account.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.





Fun Shoe

kastein posted:

My *hip* went through the roof while I was patching it. I'm hosed, I'm going to have to redo the entire structure I'm assuming. I made it waterproof again but it's not pretty. Are these wood or metal house frame?

Yeah, criminally slow. I think we dropped to 25 or 30 on the Mount Shasta grades and the same on Siskiyou. Cuesta was brutal too, I had to stop and cool down to avoid hitting the red zone.

But we made it and I'm fighting blackberries right now.

The fuel tank is alright, it fits at least 35ish gallons on this model. We filled up 3 times after starting with a nearly full tank and ended up with about half a tank.

E: oh hey the spec sheet I have looked at ten times in the last 2 weeks says 33 gallons. It has been getting nearly 12mpg with my foot on the floor.


Metal framing is usually some 1x1 or 1x2 along the edges. Wood is similar materials, with a ton of staples/glue. If its an aluminum frame it will tout it on the marketing materials. It honestly doesn't mean much as it still needs to rely on wood otherwise the aluminum will just crack. It will still use wood around windows and vent mounts. In the middle of the roof its all "structural" 1/8" plywood glued to styrofoam. Facets like vents and such will have some wooden/metal/plastic reinforcement framing around it, sometimes with a crossmember that ties it into the side beams(A/C). These are built in sections, from the inside out. The exterior walls are built on a table, pressed together, then bolted to the coach.
I've a ton of reference photos if you need anything specific.

The "shop" that rebuilt the roof on mine just threw another layer of 1/8" over the rot and then a new rubber layer on it. Complete bullshit and a 100% hack.
Peel off the rot if you can, throw down some new plywood with liquid nails or whatever (epoxy!), skin over that with aluminum or fiberglass, Glue the roof vents and hatches down with 3m-4200, forget about it forever. Their hack made it a 200% chore to fix the solar panels to the coach. They've held up fine though.

30ish up Shasta is painful as hell. I'm betting the thing has no pryometer too so there's no indication to how hard its working. My old rig pulled ~45 through that area, though I did get sandbagged by an old lady in a class-c which meant yeah about 35-40 till the turbo wasn't blowing hot air. My worst was the 9% grade coming out of death valley onto Panamint springs. dirty air filter, lousy rad, 100F ambient, ~25-30mph. brutally slow, brutally hot.
12mpg is pretty good for what it is though, I'm averaging about 9.5. The big pushers/buses and such run 8-12 so you're not far off the mark other than not having their power.

STR
May 12, 2006

I thought I was a nice jester



kastein posted:

Alarbus is correct. My wife inherited (well, early, they realized they weren't safe to drive it anymore, nor fix it, and wanted it out of the driveway) a 1994 Safari Trek 2830 RV which we will be living in while we build the barn and house. Then restoring it after.

We're currently within 20ish miles of our place. Stopped by some friends on the way there and stayed later than planned. Most of the passes and grades on 101 and i5 were brutal since this thing weighs 11000lb and has a whole 135hp at sea level, but it made it.

Found a couple of videos showing one in good shape - that's pretty drat nice. Especially for free.* (it'll cost more than a brand new one by the time you're done...)

Also found the same spec sheet Alarbus ran across. The gently caress were they thinking with that engine in something meant to hit highway speeds? I'd expect a Detroit or something equally beefy, not that puny rear end Isuzu.

STR fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Jun 12, 2021

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


theparag0n posted:

I think "Free RV" is somewhere between "Free car" and "Free boat" in the list of most expensive objects in the universe
We are right around 2k into the free RV at this point (900 of that was just the new tires), and you are probably right. Luckily my wife doesn't give a drat about a perfect restoration and is entirely OK with modifying and improving it as we find awful things, we discussed it while getting on the plane back home. So as long as I ask first and have good justification, most of the features can be upgraded as long as it looks about the same. The electromajic bed stays (though it needs some failsafes added) and so do a few other things, but we're going to redo any rot we find, replace the whole roof, upgrade the solar since it's like, 2 amps, possibly upgrade the engine (good christ it's slow), and specifically the instrumentation and electrical system. Luckily, CSB's thread gave me a ton of ideas for that.

But mostly it's just going to get waterproofing silicone painted onto the roof next time I'm out there (so we can take the tarp off) and livability improvements till we have the barn built.

cursedshitbox posted:

Metal framing is usually some 1x1 or 1x2 along the edges. Wood is similar materials, with a ton of staples/glue. If its an aluminum frame it will tout it on the marketing materials. It honestly doesn't mean much as it still needs to rely on wood otherwise the aluminum will just crack. It will still use wood around windows and vent mounts. In the middle of the roof its all "structural" 1/8" plywood glued to styrofoam. Facets like vents and such will have some wooden/metal/plastic reinforcement framing around it, sometimes with a crossmember that ties it into the side beams(A/C). These are built in sections, from the inside out. The exterior walls are built on a table, pressed together, then bolted to the coach.
I've a ton of reference photos if you need anything specific.

The "shop" that rebuilt the roof on mine just threw another layer of 1/8" over the rot and then a new rubber layer on it. Complete bullshit and a 100% hack.
Peel off the rot if you can, throw down some new plywood with liquid nails or whatever (epoxy!), skin over that with aluminum or fiberglass, Glue the roof vents and hatches down with 3m-4200, forget about it forever. Their hack made it a 200% chore to fix the solar panels to the coach. They've held up fine though.

30ish up Shasta is painful as hell. I'm betting the thing has no pryometer too so there's no indication to how hard its working. My old rig pulled ~45 through that area, though I did get sandbagged by an old lady in a class-c which meant yeah about 35-40 till the turbo wasn't blowing hot air. My worst was the 9% grade coming out of death valley onto Panamint springs. dirty air filter, lousy rad, 100F ambient, ~25-30mph. brutally slow, brutally hot.
12mpg is pretty good for what it is though, I'm averaging about 9.5. The big pushers/buses and such run 8-12 so you're not far off the mark other than not having their power.
- structural
- 1/8
- ERROR: DOES NOT COMPUTE

No pyro, the answer to how hard it was working is "my right foot is literally sore from pushing the drat pedal into the floorboards for a thousand miles". I just got home and peeled out of the drugstore parking lot by accident because I jumped on the drat throttle like I was still hauling 11k lbs with 135hp

My rough plan was something like that - pull it apart, see how it was put together, put it back together better. The outside skin isn't really rippled anywhere (probably mostly because most of it is aluminum!) and I want to keep it that way. I'm very curious about how the roof support structure is put together.

Some of the sections of Shasta and Siskiyou were so bad I moved into the breakdown lane to let dumptrucks roll past me in the slow lane as I chugged along because I didn't want to gently caress them over or lose any momentum myself. Legal? Probably not. But it served everyone's interests better than anything else I could come up with. I think we passed less than a dozen vehicles in a thousand miles.

UCS Hellmaker
Mar 29, 2008

mega. milk.

Toilet Rascal

So in a dozen miles a thousand cars passed you

What's left on the house now, you think you'll have it up before fall?

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself





kastein posted:


My rough plan was something like that - pull it apart, see how it was put together, put it back together better.

This is your house all over again.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Oh I know, this time it's just got wheels. Honestly, all my houses and jeeps are the same, rotten basket cases with bad sills and/or roofs.

The difference is I am NOT touching the structure on the RV until the shop and house are built... by me... correctly. I slapped a bunch of Henry Tropi-Cool White 100% silicone roof sealant (about the consistency of cold molasses, you brush or roll it on, comes in gallon cans) on the worst spots and that got us to Washington without any leakage, it started leaking the first time it rained up there so we tarped it. I'll probably head back in a few weeks to register some of our moving trailers there, prep the construction area more, talk to the county building inspectors about my plans, and put another gallon on the rest of the roof so it'll actually be watertight. At that point it can remain half rotten until I have my big shop ready to work on it in. Never doing major structural repairs on a house/RV while living in it again.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.





Fun Shoe

kastein posted:

Never doing major structural repairs on a house/RV while living in it again.

I too learned this the hard way. It cost me an awesome platform and nearly everything.



STR posted:

Found a couple of videos showing one in good shape - that's pretty drat nice. Especially for free.* (it'll cost more than a brand new one by the time you're done...)

Also found the same spec sheet Alarbus ran across. The gently caress were they thinking with that engine in something meant to hit highway speeds? I'd expect a Detroit or something equally beefy, not that puny rear end Isuzu.

Yeah agreed, that is a really really dinky engine for a RV. Like doubling the power with a 5.3.... then putting snails on it.. Detroits aren't found in anything smaller than the largest of pushers. For the small/midsized class-a its 6BT/6CT in this era or some disposapillar (3126/3176) (80s ran king with garbo 8.2 detroits, 3208/3206 disposapillars. All in N/A flavor.)


kastein posted:

- structural
- 1/8
- ERROR: DOES NOT COMPUTE

No pyro, the answer to how hard it was working is "my right foot is literally sore from pushing the drat pedal into the floorboards for a thousand miles". I just got home and peeled out of the drugstore parking lot by accident because I jumped on the drat throttle like I was still hauling 11k lbs with 135hp

My rough plan was something like that - pull it apart, see how it was put together, put it back together better.

Oh you want to keep it mobile? what are you thinking for a repower? There's probably not much that can be done with a 4 pot idi making all of 135hp. Pump is probably set really conservatively so that it can't melt a piston.
fwiw we had better luck cutting physical cardboard footprints of the solar and playing tetris than he and I did with building a model in CAD and placing solar that way.

Same, the whole 'structure' of the camper is this Elmer's glued together luan poo poo. Lmao. Just lmao. how does this fly! The actual oem stuff is thinner than 1/8. Its like 3/32" or something of that nature. Fairing filler and a sander make it what it ain't. 6 mos in, only one epoxied joint cracked and that's my fault for not re-skinning the section.

Careful with "pull it apart see how it was put together, put it back together better." He was very "one project at a time, no creep, no taking this thing apart to the point of being unable to reassemble".... 2 weeks later: The whole curb-side and bunk is stripped to the "studs" full reno ahoy.

E: I'm in central Oregon and probably will be tooling around the PNW for the next 2 months or so. If you wanna sling some wrenches I'm down.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


I actually already measured the opening in the floor for exactly that reason. It's 22.25 wide and 28.75 long, iirc, though those notes appear to have not made it into my google keep file on it. I know it's just barely too small to fit an LS through

The 3.9 seems reliable but holy gently caress it's so gutless. I want something else in there eventually, after the barn's built.

Unfortunately I'm already back in Mass for a bit. We had a hard deadline because we had to pick the dog back up from doggie spa resort club and the chickens needed food and water by a certain date. Since it's not waterproof yet and the parcel isn't ready for it to be there yet (it's staying under a tarp in a neighbor's yard, luckily we have awesome neighbors) I'll probably be heading back out in a few weeks for another run and we might even be moving out there permanently before the end of your stay. You're absolutely welcome to come by at any time, hell, if you want to camp there for free to keep the loving druggies off it, I can give you the location and tell the neighbors that you're cool before you show up so you don't get run off. It's a great little area of anarchy, basically everyone on the street agrees that the rules are "don't gently caress with anyone else's happiness for no reason and gently caress the drug den at the end of the road".

End goal on the RV is essentially that, if we have to strip it to the studs to get the rot out, so be it. I don't WANT to do that, but I will if I have to. I just hope there's enough of the roof structure left to make patterns off of, since it's all curved and poo poo. The walls are just right angles, I can patch that poo poo in my sleep, it's squarer than my last house was.

e: I got a dirtbiker/former XJ+ZJ guy in Bend who you'd probably get along well with, too.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.





Fun Shoe

Heh go from a 4BD to a 4BT. There's a little on the internet for those, some mention the turbo kinda sucks. At least its intercooled. Throw some gauges on it, bump the timing. Do some runs, slowly increase fuel but keep it a haze under boost. (pull a gp after a good run to see if its getting too hot from too much timing). Someone mentioned bumping the timing to 16deg. No idea what its running for an intake or exhaust, Pyro temps can be reduced through screwing with those.

IMO? swap it. Bolt that engine to a generator head and make it drink B100 or whatever.

The curved roof will probably be a pain but its all RV stuff so its a house of cheap cards and done in the cheapest laziest way possible. Worst case? flash it with some 1/8" curved aluminum like whats used in box-truck upfit bodies.

Yeah figured out you were back home already which is no biggie, not like we're on some timeline or anything. We're trying out the area to see if its where we want to buy. Probably another 3-4 weeks in Oregon before rolling into Washington. The desert SW didn't work out in that regard. You gave me the coords a while back though I'm not gonna show up without planning and notice for all parties involved, actually, is the plot next to yours still on the market? I don't mind scaring off methies. I'll actually be in Bend later next week to grab some MTB parts and paper maps for the region.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


The 40 acre plot to the West of us I don't think is on the market, but I bet the right amount of money would take it. It's a bad market for this right now but I bet if you waited a few months and offered some cash they would sell. Trees on it are like 20 years old IIRC, it's a nice piece of land. There are a few parcels further south along the next leg of the road that are currently on market, I think one is 5 acres, unlogged, and asking 70k? A few of the guys connected to the organic farming co-op(?)/cult(?) on the next three parcels over are considering that one, mostly just to keep it from being logged or methed. There's a few logged parcels for sale too but I suspect you'd prefer trees. All of those parcels are closer to a primary line and transformer than us and the 40ac one, so they're probably worth the extra cash right there alone if you were planning on grid tie in, honestly, even though I'm a stingy gently caress and hate paying prices with more than low five figures for anything. The $70k parcel is basically selling for what the loggers paid for ours with timber, plus what it'll cost us for grid tie in, even with the market being way up.

4BTs have a stupid price premium, though I do think they're decent. I'm actually considering an LS still, even if I have to make the hole a little bigger or put it in in pieces, they're a crazy attractive price per hp... and I already own a drat 345hp LQ9 I could dump in there with an Allison 1000 out of an 8.1 truck/avalanche, shove a cam in, and have triple the horsepower it has now. I need to double check if it'll clear the frame rails, if it will, it's a done deal - don't care if I have to pull the intake and heads to get it through the hole.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


WELL




Our house out east is shockingly empty. Should help making it much easier to finish, we're in the final stretch now.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Your moving process must be terrifying. I'm cleaning out my apartment to move this weekend, and just that small space had So Much Crap.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006


How many pods?

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Just the one so far.

I've known this was coming for several years at least so I've been using up car project parts, returning anything I ended up not using to home Depot for store credit (which gets used on paint and mud), selling stuff off, and giving away literal truckloads of things I deemed not worth selling. That's been in process in earnest since like 2017, and I did a bunch a few years before that just to make the place more livable when I met my wife because I'd been living the bachelor life for half a decade and the place was a horror show. The last two years I've really kicked it up a notch, I've gone from something like twelve cars (one or two running at any given time) to seven (5 running or will run in 5 minutes or less), soon to be 2 to 3 cars that all run, and we fit almost everything from the house into a single 16ft pod. I would pretty confidently say that I can fit all my remaining tools and project materials that I'm moving into at most one more 16ft pod, possibly even a smaller one, and there's a good chance I'll just use a trailer instead. It looks like a U-Haul 6x12 enclosed would cost a quarter what the pod does and a U-Haul 20ft truck would cost about half the pod price... Not including gas.

Either way it's good to know what it'll take. We got a crazy amount of stuff into that pod, I wasn't sure if we were going to have way too much extra room due to lack of prep or nowhere near enough room but I certainly wasn't expecting it to fill that nicely.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.




Fun Shoe

Do the PODs have a weight limit?

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


I believe the limit we were given was 4500 but I looked at the pod itself and the manufacturers rating was 7440. Then I messaged a friend who works there and he laughed at me a lot for even thinking about it, said he had one on his forklift that was over 10k that day and had seen significantly heavier than that pretty regularly and that they literally do not give one poo poo and just give a number to keep people from like, filling them with cement blocks.

The driver picked it up and drove off with it, no fucks given.

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

MESS WITH THE OWL GET DISEMBOWEL





Good luck man, that's awesome!

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.



Pillbug

Do they give you tie-down points or something in the pod, or is everything just kind of loose like a moving van?

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kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Some of the D rings were missing in ours but yes. We Tetris-mastered it in there pretty tight till just before the third stud, put plywood across the stuff, a few bikes in, then ratchet straps across all that to keep it from sliding towards the door. Then made a backup wall out of shelving unit shelves and rope, then more bicycles and ratchet straps, then the tires (and more ratchet straps), then tossed the random stuff that was left on top of the tires. Hopefully it'll stay put.

Elviscat - thanks dude! I'll let you know when we're headed out to unpack it.

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