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Fallom
Sep 6, 2008




Fun Shoe

That's 100% a BB hole and rude teens are everywhere

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corgski
Feb 6, 2007



Defective glass would have cracks spiderwebbing out from one of the edges wherever it was chipped and then eventually failed from heating and cooling cycles, not a clean hole through the middle of the pane like that.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Pham Nuwen posted:

I guess I thought "the outer pane" was a clear enough indicator

That could have been a storm window, it could have been something else.

So it's a double pane window. It's supposed to have inert gas between the panes. You need to contact someone who actually know how to work on the brand of window, which should be in one of the corners of the glass somewhere. It needs more than a glass repair/replacement to return it to it's original function.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

Hubris

Fun Shoe

A corner of a brick broke off of one of my planters:



Is there, like, some kind of glue I could use to stick it back in there? Mortar is an obvious option but I feel like with the angles involved it'd not work very well (I gather it's very weak in tension), plus I'd need a fairly thick layer, which would make the patch rather inelegant. Also, I assume I need to clean the surfaces but I'm not sure how best to do that.

Pham Nuwen
Oct 30, 2010




Motronic posted:

That could have been a storm window, it could have been something else.

So it's a double pane window. It's supposed to have inert gas between the panes. You need to contact someone who actually know how to work on the brand of window, which should be in one of the corners of the glass somewhere. It needs more than a glass repair/replacement to return it to it's original function.

Thanks. I've got a guy coming out next week for a quote.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005





TooMuchAbstraction posted:

A corner of a brick broke off of one of my planters:



Is there, like, some kind of glue I could use to stick it back in there? Mortar is an obvious option but I feel like with the angles involved it'd not work very well (I gather it's very weak in tension), plus I'd need a fairly thick layer, which would make the patch rather inelegant. Also, I assume I need to clean the surfaces but I'm not sure how best to do that.

My gut told me epoxy could be good for this and seems like masonry epoxy exists so probably that? I don't have direct experience though, just used epoxy on ceramic flower pots before.

edit: given the position and gravity you'd probably want some clamps to hold the piece in place while things set in place

Fallom
Sep 6, 2008




Fun Shoe

Get out your tube of construction adhesive

Jenkl
Aug 4, 2008


Bioshuffle posted:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-4-in-Round-Heavy-Duty-Wall-Vent-with-Damper-in-White-HDWV4W/301762209

Is this an adequate replacement for all the vent covers? I am a bit put off by the lack of screws to secure the vent to the wall. Am I just supposed to use caulk to adhere it?

I can't seem to find anything better at Home Depot, and I need to replace all my vent covers outside.

I see 4 inch and 6 inch vent sizes. Is there a standardized size? Or do I need to rip out one vent and take some measurements?

Not standard but I'd bet 4". Ideally you'd get it measured or identified by some means (e.g. determine make of a exhaust fan and look up specs). Of course you won't know for sure till you open it.

It does seem odd there's no screw holes but I'd still use metal screws as needed + caulk the seam.

Any reason a smaller plastic vent cover wouldn't suffice?

Fallom
Sep 6, 2008




Fun Shoe

Caulk works fine to adhere those. They aren't under significant pressure and there's no leakage around the pipe.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Your authority is not recognized in Fort Kickass.


I know you don't want to remove concrete forms too early, but is it possible to leave them on for too long?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

FogHelmut posted:

I know you don't want to remove concrete forms too early, but is it possible to leave them on for too long?

Sure....I mean, too long to be able to get them off without messing the forms up. I assume you're talking about wood. If you're talking metal forms that have been properly treated with a release agent you'd basically need to leave them on long enough to rust in place.

Dunkelbrau
Aug 9, 2003


Dumb plumbing question: what the hell is in my overflow elbow? Went to snake a slow drain and found this. I canít seem to twist or pull it out.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005





That looks similar to the plug they didn't fully take out of my shower drain when they installed it all. If that's the case just ripping it out with pilers would be correct. However don't trust me, I would ask in the plumbing thread unless someone comes along here that's sure.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Your authority is not recognized in Fort Kickass.


I think there used to be an appliance thread, but I don't know where it is now.

Can anyone recommend a dishwasher that doesn't have one of these? https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10083957-Chopper-Assembly-Dishwasher/dp/B005BNN3C8/

Despite washing my dishes before putting them in the dishwasher (), I have to disassemble this and clean it out every 3-6 months because it clogs up.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006


FogHelmut posted:

I think there used to be an appliance thread, but I don't know where it is now.

Can anyone recommend a dishwasher that doesn't have one of these? https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10083957-Chopper-Assembly-Dishwasher/dp/B005BNN3C8/

Despite washing my dishes before putting them in the dishwasher (), I have to disassemble this and clean it out every 3-6 months because it clogs up.

For some reason the Amazon link is freezing up on my phone, but if it's the strainer I think they all have them. If you are literally washing your dishes with soap and water the place to put them is the cabinet not the dishwasher. Otherwise whatever lipids and other crud are always going to get caught up in the strainer and requiring periodic cleaning. It should be easy to do, is there more disassembly than what amounts to a quarter turn in the basin?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Your authority is not recognized in Fort Kickass.


H110Hawk posted:

For some reason the Amazon link is freezing up on my phone, but if it's the strainer I think they all have them. If you are literally washing your dishes with soap and water the place to put them is the cabinet not the dishwasher. Otherwise whatever lipids and other crud are always going to get caught up in the strainer and requiring periodic cleaning. It should be easy to do, is there more disassembly than what amounts to a quarter turn in the basin?



1. Remove top and bottom tray.
2. Unscrew and remove bottom spray arm assembly.
3. Remove piping that leads to top sprayer.
4. Remove 4 torx screws that hold in the bottom strainer.
5. Remove bottom strainer.
6. Reach into a hole in the center of the the bottom of the dishwasher and remove a torx screw on the chopper cover.
7. Use needle nose pliers to remove screw that fell into a crevice.
8. Remove chopper cover.
9. Remove chopper.
10. Clean or replace chopper.
11. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly.
12. Chopper does not line up with the slot in the chopper cover.
13. Get yelled at by your wife for cursing in front of the kids.

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!


Dunkelbrau posted:

Dumb plumbing question: what the hell is in my overflow elbow? Went to snake a slow drain and found this. I canít seem to twist or pull it out.

That is 100% the knock out for your drain. That plug was supposed to be removed after passing rough-in. Gab it with a pair pliers and twist while pulling it out. With that in place--if your tub overfills, it isn't going to stop overfilling.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



HycoCam posted:

That is 100% the knock out for your drain. That plug was supposed to be removed after passing rough-in. Gab it with a pair pliers and twist while pulling it out. With that in place--if your tub overfills, it isn't going to stop overfilling.

Do y'think it's hooked up?

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!


Bad Munki posted:

Do y'think it's hooked up?
That would be a comedy option for sure! But, if it wasn't connected, I suspect there would have been water coming from under the tub anytime it drained.

What you don't want to do is drop the knockout into the drain--that would be the suck.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Your authority is not recognized in Fort Kickass.


gently caress this poo poo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmoTHPU0geU



Look how loving easy this Bosch is goddamn

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJFhqUn2Fs0


I am so angry about having to do this so often I am willing to spend inordinate amounts of money on a luxury dishwasher.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



As a bosch-800-series-haver, yes, they are ace. And so god drat quiet. Anything 500-series and up will blow your mind, you wouldn't think a dishwasher would do that, but it will.


Obviously bragging a little, you would too


e: lol, in the bosch video they remove the rack and the sprayer? You don't even have to do that, just reach in and pull the filter.

Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Oct 28, 2020

Dunkelbrau
Aug 9, 2003


HycoCam posted:

That is 100% the knock out for your drain. That plug was supposed to be removed after passing rough-in. Gab it with a pair pliers and twist while pulling it out. With that in place--if your tub overfills, it isn't going to stop overfilling.

Oof, good job flippers I bought this place from. Thanks!

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



Dunkelbrau posted:

Oof, good job flippers I bought this place from. Thanks!

Now I'm genuinely concerned that it's not hooked up. Proceed with caution.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006


FogHelmut posted:



1. Remove top and bottom tray.
2. Unscrew and remove bottom spray arm assembly.
3. Remove piping that leads to top sprayer.
4. Remove 4 torx screws that hold in the bottom strainer.
5. Remove bottom strainer.
6. Reach into a hole in the center of the the bottom of the dishwasher and remove a torx screw on the chopper cover.
7. Use needle nose pliers to remove screw that fell into a crevice.
8. Remove chopper cover.
9. Remove chopper.
10. Clean or replace chopper.
11. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly.
12. Chopper does not line up with the slot in the chopper cover.
13. Get yelled at by your wife for cursing in front of the kids.

Buy a Bosch. And stop prewashing your dishes, just get the solids off. Even then don't overthink it.

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!


Dunkelbrau posted:

Oof, good job flippers I bought this place from. Thanks!


Bad Munki posted:

Now I'm genuinely concerned that it's not hooked up. Proceed with caution.
"If" the flippers pulled permits, there "should" have been a drain test where the tub was filled with a substantial amount of water. When the plug was pulled to test the drain--the inspector "should" have failed the tub because of the slow drain/obvious venting problem.

The fact your tub is draining slow now, leads me to believe the overflow is connected.

Easy enough to test. Fill your tub half way. Make sure the overflow rough-in cap has been removed. Pull the plug. Your tub should drain much smoother. If the overflow isn't connected when you pull that plug you'll hear the geyser happening on the other side of the tub instead of the gurgling drain. If you do hear the geyser--stuff the drain back in the tub quick and get some buckets. But if you have used this tub at all in the past--and have not gotten water on the ceiling below--I'd think your drain lines are intact. Leaving out sections of drain pipe is rare. Forgetting a knock-out isn't so rare. I've had a toilet get installed with the knock-out left in place. (A test flush immediately after the install uncovered the problem--but still a fun story.)

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



H110Hawk posted:

Buy a Bosch. And stop prewashing your dishes, just get the solids off. Even then don't overthink it.

Bosch even explicitly warns you about washing your dishes before loading them because if you do, the sensor won't see the crud.

Just stick that poo poo in there, raw-dog your dishwasher, it likes it that way

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006


Bad Munki posted:

Bosch even explicitly warns you about washing your dishes before loading them because if you do, the sensor won't see the crud.

Just stick that poo poo in there, raw-dog your dishwasher, it likes it that way

Yup. I basically just scrape them into the trash to get like, the meat, veggies, and such off. The rest goes in as-is. While washing baby bottles in there I suggest pre-rinsing all tomato sauce off though, unless you like orange tinted baby bottles. You're going to be amazed at how much water, time, and energy you are wasting pre-washing your dishes.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.



I think page four of the manual even suggests you talk dirty to the dishwasher while loading your dishes. Freakin' Germans, man.

Goober Peas
Jun 30, 2007

Check out my 'Vette, bro




I have a fancy new 3-rack Whirlpool DW and its filter is just like the Bosch. You reach in, turn it a quarter turn and the filter and surrounding tray comes right out.

regulargonzalez
Aug 18, 2006
UNGH LET ME LICK THOSE BOOTS DADDY HULU YES YES GIVE ME ALL THE CORPORATE CUMMIES ADBLOCK USERS DESERVE THE DEATH PENALTY, DON'T THEY DADDY?
WHEN THE RICH GET RICHER I GET HORNIER


Fwiw there are still a few old school grinder-style dishwashers, I think Wirecutter has a recommendation for one although they strongly urge suggest just going with a filter model

Jenkl
Aug 4, 2008


Any thoughts on thermal barrier for spray foam in joist bays?

Here in Ontario (most places I imagine), drywall needs to cover spray foam insulation. Everywhere but my utility room will have a full ceiling so its fine, but there just the walls were to be drywall.

Wondering if anyone can think of any alternatives?

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think


Fallen Rib

Can anyone recommend a cheap manual wood plane I could use to shave two bedroom doors?

Iíve checked the hinges on both of them and theyíre all tight, itís just that both doors are hard to close and it seems like the upper side of the doors need shaved.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"

Jenkl posted:

Any thoughts on thermal barrier for spray foam in joist bays?

Here in Ontario (most places I imagine), drywall needs to cover spray foam insulation. Everywhere but my utility room will have a full ceiling so its fine, but there just the walls were to be drywall.

Wondering if anyone can think of any alternatives?

There are coatings to apply directly to it. Not sure about availability in Canada but I sell Flame Control Coatings' 60-60A and IFTI's DC315 on occasion at work, both of which are intumescent coatings for direct application to spray foam insulation. They need to be sprayed on at significant millage to meet required burn time rating.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002


nwin posted:

Can anyone recommend a cheap manual wood plane I could use to shave two bedroom doors?

Iíve checked the hinges on both of them and theyíre all tight, itís just that both doors are hard to close and it seems like the upper side of the doors need shaved.

It might be easier to shim the hinges with paperboard.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think


Fallen Rib

kid sinister posted:

It might be easier to shim the hinges with paperboard.

And thatís why I asked!

Whatís the process? Just cut some pieces of paperboard to the size of the hinge and insert between hinge and the door frame?

Actually, not sure how that would work. Would I put the paperboard on the hinge at the bottom to push that OUT so itíd bring the bottom in?

nwin fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Oct 28, 2020

Jenkl
Aug 4, 2008


Final Blog Entry posted:

There are coatings to apply directly to it. Not sure about availability in Canada but I sell Flame Control Coatings' 60-60A and IFTI's DC315 on occasion at work, both of which are intumescent coatings for direct application to spray foam insulation. They need to be sprayed on at significant millage to meet required burn time rating.

Thanks! I had looked into similar things but they seemed pricey.

I just asked our installers and, to my surprise, apparently r22 roxul counts as a thermal barrier so I'll be installing that over it. It should fit. If not, apparently roxul comfort boards at 2" or 3" also qualifies.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.




Fun Shoe

Anyone have any idea what's going on with this doorknob? It's brand new, so it's not malfunctioning, but I've never seen a knob act this way. Is it a setting? Is it the kind of knob and I need to replace it? What is the purpose of a knob that does this?

https://i.imgur.com/O5tGXpN.mp4

Fallom
Sep 6, 2008




Fun Shoe

You can take the knobs off and work the mechanism inside the door to see if it's binding up somewhere, but if it's not that I'd just assume there's a busted spring somewhere

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

SouthShoreSamurai posted:

Anyone have any idea what's going on with this doorknob? It's brand new, so it's not malfunctioning, but I've never seen a knob act this way. Is it a setting? Is it the kind of knob and I need to replace it? What is the purpose of a knob that does this?


It's definitely malfunctioning. It being new is irrelevant, the latch bolt is binding up inside the door. If you have some graphite lubricant, that might help, but I would pull it apart and look to see if you can tell what it's getting bound up on.

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SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.




Fun Shoe

There's a slight 'click' when it reaches it's full depth, then only comes back out halfway (like you see). Then you have to 'click' it back into the normal position.

I've pulled it apart and can't see anything weird happening inside, but idk. I guess I'll just return it and get a new one.

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