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Anyone know anything about refrigerators? Had a spate of terrible weather here in North Texas last week and our power was out from Sunday to Wednesday evening. Since the power has been back on our Samsung fridge has been leaking water from the bottom front. I’m wondering if it has something to do with the compressor or something? It’s a French door refrigerator with a small drawer underneath the doors and a large freezer drawer. The ice maker doesn’t work which is something Samsung fridges are notorious for, but I don’t believe the ice maker is the problem unless the ice all started melting while the power was out, which is entirely possible as it stayed barely above freezing inside our house. The ice usually just seizes it up. Our pipes didn’t freeze either, we left faucets dripping and cabinets open etc. Any rate not sure that it wouldn’t have re-frozen again anyhow. Pulled fridge out a bit and no signs of water behind the fridge or any leaks from the water line. Water soaked a towel today. Probably will wanna get a service guy out but before we do, wanted to make sure we aren’t just being dumb dumbs and missing something obvious in diagnosis.
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Feb 24, 2021 03:50
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Is it just melted ice from when it defrosted while it was off? I believe modern fridges still defrost, they just drain into a tray underneath. It may just be runoff from that.
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Feb 24, 2021 04:15
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mutata posted:Is it just melted ice from when it defrosted while it was off? I believe modern fridges still defrost, they just drain into a tray underneath. It may just be runoff from that. My thought as well but it’s been a few days and the ice maker itself is up top in the main refrigerator spaces. It may be the freezer drawer but I don’t know enough about the inner workings to be able to say whatever was going to drain didn’t just re-freeze. The stuff we did leave in there was still frosty when the power came back on and this has been leaking in various amounts since Wednesday-ish? Seems like a lot for a long time to still be runoff from any defrost but again I’m clueless here
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Feb 24, 2021 04:26
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I just bought a house and the list of things I want to do is piling right the gently caress up. Prime on my mind is insulating the bedroom so I can sleep during the day, and replacing the rental water heater. I'm considering going tankless for the water heater, primarily because it's stored out in the garage and it's cold as gently caress out there. They have a little electric heater installed to keep it warm. It's just the two of us, and we don't tend to use anything at the same time. There is a pretty huge bathtub, but I guess tankless would just mean it would take a little longer to fill? As for the sound insulation - I've been trying to see if getting a solid core door is going to dull at least some of the noise coming from the stairwell. Anybody have experience in how much it cuts down sound? I'm leery of getting one if it's just going to transfer through the floor, although I'm fairly certain that the sounds bothering me are from the hollow core door. life is killing me posted:My thought as well but it’s been a few days and the ice maker itself is up top in the main refrigerator spaces. It may be the freezer drawer but I don’t know enough about the inner workings to be able to say whatever was going to drain didn’t just re-freeze. The stuff we did leave in there was still frosty when the power came back on and this has been leaking in various amounts since Wednesday-ish? Seems like a lot for a long time to still be runoff from any defrost but again I’m clueless here Hello, worked in an appliance shop for 10 years. If there hasn't just been a slow leak started somewhere, you could also have the air vents freezing and unfreezing. The air from your bottom mount freezer is boosted by a fan up into your fridge area through a channel along the back or sides, and if humidity or anything else builds up in there it can freeze over and continuously melt and freeze, causing a lot of extra moisture to go everywhere. This is common when power is lost or a fan isn't blowing the cold around properly. It may be completely hidden from view. The best option is to try defrosting the fridge completely (until the entire thing is room temp, watch for a lot of water being produced), and if that doesn't stop it, get a tech to take apart the area. edit: there is also generally a defrosting coil built into this area that can fail or stop working properly. redbrouw fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Feb 24, 2021 |
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Feb 24, 2021 06:47
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Your drain at the back of the freezer has frozen. The water drips into the low freezer and then leaks out if it doesn't freeze. On my GE I had to pull the drawer and drain cover and thaw it with hot water
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Feb 24, 2021 07:07
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redbrouw posted:I'm considering going tankless for the water heater, primarily because it's stored out in the garage and it's cold as gently caress out there. They have a little electric heater installed to keep it warm. It's just the two of us, and we don't tend to use anything at the same time. There is a pretty huge bathtub, but I guess tankless would just mean it would take a little longer to fill? I’ll give you the same advice I got when I was getting my water heater replaced: Power vented gas tankless is nice, especially if it’s only two people. Electric tankless heaters aren’t so hot and are only really useful as boosters for commercial dishwashers. People run into problems when they undersize the heater for their usage, the winter inlet temperature, or both, and or when they don’t have a suitable gas supply (typically 3/4”) Personally my fiancé and I got a Navien NPE240 in our house and it’s had no trouble keeping up, even with both a shower and the washer going at the same time. It also costs significantly less to run than your typical lovely 40gal tank, which offsets the somewhat higher initial outlay.
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Feb 24, 2021 07:31
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I posted in the resin thread but it wasn't very active, I'm looking to talk to dicemakers for an upcoming video project. If you know anyone please help me connect with them?
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Feb 24, 2021 22:30
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PHIZ KALIFA posted:I posted in the resin thread but it wasn't very active, I'm looking to talk to dicemakers for an upcoming video project. If you know anyone please help me connect with them? I don't know any personally but I have watched some of Rybonator's youtube videos and he's got a link to his dice goblin discord in the description box. There may be some dice making types there: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRDte2j54F0
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Feb 25, 2021 02:25
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Farmer Crack-rear end posted:The bedroom window in my apartment came with cheap blinds that are no longer in great condition. I want to install some curtains and am a little overwhelmed by options as far as curtain rods and brackets. Any pointers on how to select the appropriate hardware would be greatly appreciated. I swear by these Ikea ones, but it's only cost effective if you can go to Ikea
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Feb 25, 2021 02:29
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corgski posted:I’ll give you the same advice I got when I was getting my water heater replaced: Do tankless heaters have a longer lifetime than regular heaters?
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Feb 25, 2021 02:47
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PHIZ KALIFA posted:I posted in the resin thread but it wasn't very active, I'm looking to talk to dicemakers for an upcoming video project. If you know anyone please help me connect with them? You might find something in the Trad Games forum: https://forums.somethingawful.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=234
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Feb 25, 2021 04:47
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Do tankless heaters have a longer lifetime than regular heaters?
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Feb 25, 2021 21:42
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melon cat posted:Tankless units need to be flushed out periodically and if you don't keep up with maintenance they can fail quite early in their life cycle. Yeah, unlike tank heaters which will limp along with a decade of lime scale in the tank, tankless heaters really do need to be cleaned annually. Usually it's just something like taking a small pump and some length of hose and backfeeding it with cleaning solution for 30 minutes once a year. Not onerous, but something to keep in mind. Here's an example of the annual maintenance for my model: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF9ndoxBY_E corgski fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Feb 25, 2021 |
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Feb 25, 2021 22:32
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The biggest issue with tankless is there aren't repair parts on the truck, so to speak. If your hot water tank goes out on Saturday night at 6PM--you have several options for getting hot water before Monday morning. Everything from call out an emergency plumber that will have the parts and/or an entire unit to replace. Or head to Lowes yourself and buy the stuff. With tankless--you aren't going to find the parts unless you are in a large metro area with a few good supply houses. Any of the Rinnai parts I have ever needed for repair take a few days to order unless they are under warranty. (e: And a Saturday warranty issue is still a Tuesday morning at the earliest part that still needs to be installed.) I've been tankless since 2005. And electric tankless at that... When I got my first unit, the recommendation was to buy two. And just leave the 2nd one sitting in a box until it was needed. 2016 is when the 2nd box got opened. I have yet to buy a 3rd box... But now that I have told the internet and Mr. Murphy that I have electric tankless, I'd better get a spare here sooner rather than later.
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Feb 25, 2021 23:40
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It's a natural gas tankless that I was considering. Once again, I'm mostly thinking about it since it's in the garage which is not well insulated, and there's not much I can do about it. It is in a room by itself, and it's not against code here to put an insulating blanket over a water tank. I'm in Toronto, so the water from the inlet is cold. Honestly, it's not looking like it's worth it to go tankless. I talked to my friend, a gas tech, and he said I might have to upgrade services into the building which I'm not sure if I can do, since it's a condo townhouse.
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Feb 26, 2021 00:02
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When I bought this house I was so horny to go tankless because the last house I rented had such a poo poo water heater, but this thing puts out enough hot water for two consecutive showers and who needs more than that? Still going strong 10 years later Tangentially, my wife wants a pot filler, which is a decadent useless fixture that I'll get her so I don't have to think of a birthday gift. I can run the PEX to it fairly easy, but that same section of wall is obviously where the 220v line for the stove comes down. Is there some special way to handle this to code? Should I just pony up for a plumber?
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Feb 26, 2021 06:41
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Shouldn't you have a drain or like a floor drain in case that pot filler goes crazy? Do they make 220 volt GFCI outlets?
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Feb 26, 2021 07:18
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My cousin remodelled his kitchen & paid to have two sinks installed. And a pot filler. Thing looks so wrong sitting above the counter with zero drainage nearby or under it. How can that be code without momentary valves? Or even with? poo poo, man. Two sinks. You couldn't figure something out?
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Feb 26, 2021 13:42
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FogHelmut posted:Shouldn't you have a drain or like a floor drain in case that pot filler goes crazy? Pot fillers have two shut offs, one at the wall and one at the end of the extension arm but if both fail or you leave it on, you're gonna have a bad time.
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Feb 26, 2021 15:23
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Lot of pot filler hate itt. Pot Fillers are popular because they are literally the cheapest of all the dodads you can do when your building/renovating your kitchen. Have yet to hear of any in wall leaks, but walking away and overfilling pots seems to happen to everyone once. No real difference than when a pot boils over, well, except for the whole water isn't hot enough to scald you. The reason they are popular in renovations and new builds is because there is no backsplash to worry about and you have access to the stud bays. You can have PEX and electrical wiring in the same stud bay--you'd want to position them in the center of the stud and use nailing plates to protect the electrical and plumbing from errant fasteners holding on drywall/siding/etc. Of course it always nice to have plumbing and electrical in different stud bays--keep the trades from blaming each other--but not always possible. What I have seen happen is the weight of a badly installed pot filler cause the pot filler to shift. So what used to sit level starts to sag, and depending on your backsplash is really obvious and looks like crap.
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Feb 26, 2021 17:34
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You fill the pot, you gotta empty the pot. You're carrying a pot full of water somewhere either way. I don't understand why you need one at the stove unless you're running a commercial kitchen.
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Feb 26, 2021 19:48
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FogHelmut posted:You fill the pot, you gotta empty the pot. You're carrying a pot full of water somewhere either way. I don't understand why you need one at the stove unless you're running a commercial kitchen.
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Feb 26, 2021 20:16
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how easy is it for an electrician to install one of those circular junction boxes on a wall? I'd like to do that so I can put up a sconce, as most sconces only have that connection type instead of having a cord.
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Feb 26, 2021 21:02
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actionjackson posted:how easy is it for an electrician to install one of those circular junction boxes on a wall? I'd like to do that so I can put up a sconce, as most sconces only have that connection type instead of having a cord. There's a lot of sconces that are cord and plug connect connectable nowadays. Answer to your question is: variable If you don't want it switched and you want it in the same stud bay as an outlet it's easy as cake. If you want it switched with the lights, it depends on attic access, construction of the house, etc etc.
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Feb 26, 2021 21:55
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Elviscat posted:There's a lot of sconces that are cord and plug connect connectable nowadays. okay thanks. i'm in a condo, and there are two outlets on the wall in question. so the location of the nearest outlet is relevant? I have no idea what a stud bay is, sorry!
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Feb 26, 2021 21:57
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actionjackson posted:okay thanks. i'm in a condo, and there are two outlets on the wall in question. so the location of the nearest outlet is relevant? I have no idea what a stud bay is, sorry! If it's right over an existing outlet and can be powered directly from that, it's a pretty easy job. How are your going to switch this sconce on and off? Like do you intend to use a pull chain, or a fancy WiFi connected bulb, or do you want to control it from an existing wall switch or a new one?
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Feb 26, 2021 22:34
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actionjackson posted:okay thanks. i'm in a condo, and there are two outlets on the wall in question. so the location of the nearest outlet is relevant? I have no idea what a stud bay is, sorry! A stud bay is the hollow cavity behind your drywall between the vertical supporting members in the wall. Do you have a specific sconce in mind that is listed for direct wire only? Because your situation sounds perfect for something like this coupled with a Clapper, or IoT/BT modern Clapper equivalent. Even if it's a super easy job you'll be out a couple hundred for an electrician, if they have to cut through drywall and do wall damage and poo poo it could be way more.
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Feb 26, 2021 22:53
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Hi, here's two I'm considering this one requires the junction box, and the switch is on the lamp https://www.dwr.com/lighting-wall-sconce/type-75-wall-sconce/2196973.html?lang=en_US this one has a cord, it's a bit more expensive but obviously then I wouldn't need an electrician, and it's dimmable which is really nice for me. there's one switch that does both on/off and dim on the lamp https://www.muuto.com/product/Tip-Wall-Lamp--p24532/p24532/ After what you've both mentioned I think the corded one is definitely the better option, and I can just position it in a way that most of the cord can be hidden - for example just outside of, and right above the headboard actionjackson fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Feb 26, 2021 |
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Feb 26, 2021 23:19
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Reading lights for your bed? Yeah c&p's the way to go, since you can hide the cords like you said, and having a switch on the unit isn't an inconvenience.
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Feb 26, 2021 23:24
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FogHelmut posted:Do they make 220 volt GFCI outlets? No, only breakers. Even then, they're more for shared neutral pairs of circuits, and they aren't at the amperages for major appliances.
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Feb 27, 2021 00:52
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I hesitate to ask this, but what does a normal 220v oven hookup look like coming out of the wall? Is it a female outlet that the oven just plugs into? Because mine is a 220v wire just poking out of the drywall and connects to the oven.
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Feb 27, 2021 03:27
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GD_American posted:I hesitate to ask this, but what does a normal 220v oven hookup look like coming out of the wall? Is it a female outlet that the oven just plugs into? Like...gets wire nutted together?
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Feb 27, 2021 04:01
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GD_American posted:I hesitate to ask this, but what does a normal 220v oven hookup look like coming out of the wall? Is it a female outlet that the oven just plugs into? Yes, but big.  Few different form factors, older non-grounding types, etc. E: stealie72 posted:Like...gets wire nutted together? They make hardwireable ranges.
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Feb 27, 2021 04:05
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life is killing me posted:Anyone know anything about refrigerators? Had a spate of terrible weather here in North Texas last week and our power was out from Sunday to Wednesday evening. Since the power has been back on our Samsung fridge has been leaking water from the bottom front. I’m wondering if it has something to do with the compressor or something? I would check the ice maker by pulling out the bin and emptying it anyways. Carefully pull the fridge out and see if the water line fron the fridge isn't leaking. It turns off like a toilet from the wall if it is. Pull out all the stuff in the freezer drawer and dry it out, then check out the fridge itself and do the same. If could be something just melted or was pooled underneath and joined forces with condensation etc.; I have a french door fridge and I have had issues with the freezer drawer not being fully closed and it pissing chicken ice juice out the bottom onto my floors. If I had to do it all over again if just have an industrial fridge inside and a deep freezer in the garage or something. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Feb 27, 2021 |
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Feb 27, 2021 12:42
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I get mice in my shed and those fuckers get into my yard equipment and chew up wires. I have had good luck using Pure Body peppermint oil and using the included droplet thing to put drops around the equipment. However, the oil smell starts to go away after a few days and if I don't keep refreshing, the mice come back. Any alternatives to this? I'm thinking of a diffuser, but the personal ones I've seen are combination humidifiers and will spray diluted water every 30 seconds for a maximum of a few hours. I'm looking for something that will spray or drop undiluted oil once or twice a day for as long as either the battery has power or the oil is used up. Thoughts?
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Feb 28, 2021 01:52
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Cheesus posted:I get mice in my shed and those fuckers get into my yard equipment and chew up wires. Seal their entry points is only way to stop them. Once you do that, an electronic mousey death chamber. Solving this with essential oils is a waste of your time.
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Feb 28, 2021 02:05
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Yep. You gotta get the mice out, and keep them out. If you only do the former, they'll return eventually, and if you only do the latter (i.e. seal the walls but don't evict the current tenants) then you've just doomed them to eventual death by starvation or eating something lethal. If you're feeling squeamish, you can use nonlethal traps, I suppose. But you absolutely need to keep the mice from getting in.
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Feb 28, 2021 03:17
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Imasalmon posted:You might find something in the Trad Games forum: https://forums.somethingawful.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=234 Thanks for the tip! This is exactly what I needed 
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Feb 28, 2021 03:49
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Cheesus posted:I get mice in my shed and those fuckers get into my yard equipment and chew up wires. I have had good luck using Pure Body peppermint oil and using the included droplet thing to put drops around the equipment. However, the oil smell starts to go away after a few days and if I don't keep refreshing, the mice come back. Traps or make friends with local stray cats.
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Feb 28, 2021 04:38
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This probably isn't the right thread, but please point me in the right direction. Where can I buy exotic metal fasteners online? E.g. a M10-1.25 hex nut in monel, or a hastelloy stud? Every supplier I find just has a generic fasteners page and an invitation to RFQ. Is all of this stuff custom machined? I figured there would be a lot of standard hardware available in exotic alloys, but maybe not? I can find a little bit on McMaster-Carr, but selection is sparse and somewhat random, with very few metric fine thread fasteners in weird metals. I started thinking about this in the context of a car project, but that's mostly done now. So now my interest is less specific, but I would like to know if this kind of hardware can be easily purchased in small quantities.
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Feb 28, 2021 09:57
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