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The only thing I'll do on garage doors is install/replace openers and general lubrication - it's not worth attempting anything else.
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Apr 13, 2021 22:28
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I have an electric corded Worx chainsaw that has a bar oil tank. anywhere i put this thing has a small amount of oil seepage under it from the open part where the saw dust comes out. Am I missing an obvious chainsaw thing I should be doing to prevent this? I would assume bar oil is a universal thing so how do other chainsaws deal with this? The manual didn't seem to talk about it. Should I just shove a paper towel up there after every time I use it?
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Apr 13, 2021 22:55
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I have an electric corded Worx chainsaw that has a bar oil tank. anywhere i put this thing has a small amount of oil seepage under it from the open part where the saw dust comes out. Am I missing an obvious chainsaw thing I should be doing to prevent this? I would assume bar oil is a universal thing so how do other chainsaws deal with this? The manual didn't seem to talk about it. Should I just shove a paper towel up there after every time I use it? At least in my experience they all just slowly leak bar and chain oil all the time. I've never taken one apart to see how the oie gets to the bar/chain, but I don't think there's a valve that closes when the saw is off or anything.
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Apr 13, 2021 23:50
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I just store all my chainsaws on those cleanup towels made specifically for petroleum products, works fine.
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Apr 14, 2021 01:27
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Bad Munki posted:I just store all my chainsaws on those cleanup towels made specifically for petroleum products, works fine. Wow it really feels like I have a garage now. Soakin poo poo up with a rag as a matter of course. Thanks!
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Apr 14, 2021 03:38
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:At least in my experience they all just slowly leak bar and chain oil all the time. Sometimes this is because of pressure differentials. Air becomes more dense as temperatures drop at night, and as the as the air/oil in the oil chamber contracts more air is drawn in through a one-way valve that's there to let air into the chamber during saw operation. During the heat of the day this air expands. Since the air can't escape back out through the valve the pressure in the oil chamber increases and eventually it equalizes by forcing out a small amount of oil. This repeats with each cycle of heating and cooling until your saw is sitting in a puddle of oil. If this is the cause of the leaking, you can sometimes avoid it by storing the saw with the oil cap facing upwards and cracking the cap to vent the oil chamber. However, in my experience what really happens when you try this is that you dump oil all over the garage floor the next time you go to use the saw because you are a dumbass who forgot to retighten the oil cap.
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Apr 14, 2021 05:34
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Sounds like you need a lock out tag out system for your bar oil cap...
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Apr 14, 2021 05:47
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Question about leveling 3/4 inch TG OSB subfloor. The edges where the TG meets in places is slightly raised. Maybe 1/16th - 1/8th of an inch. Is it okay to just sand it down level? Should I use a leveling compound on the entire floor? Or is there a better method I just don't know about? It's a second floor, nailed and glued to engineered beams.
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Apr 14, 2021 15:55
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My front yard is butt ugly. PO was an older woman who really just wasn't able to do any sort of landscaping, and had very little money and kids who didn't care about it so it got neglected. I want to try and make it at least a little nicer. I've got a spreader, some sun mix grass seed (it gets almost constant sun,) a small electric dethatcher, and some broad leaf herbicide. Even got some sand and compost to mix and fill in the low spots. What's the best order to do this? Specifically, do I apply herbicide first and then wait a bit and dethatch? Hoping the dethatcher will then grab all the dead/dying weeds a part of that process? Or do I dethatch first to "clear the way" for the herbicide to be more effective? maybe both? Dethatch, apply weed killer, dethatch again? After that it's fairly straightforward. Fill in low spots with sand/compost mix, apply lots of seed to those areas like it's a "new" lawn, cover with something like straw, then overseed rest of lawn. And how much time should I wait overall between laying down herbicide and then overseeding?
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Apr 15, 2021 17:12
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What is there now? After, do you want it to be 100% grass or do you want a flower or veggie bed somewhere in there? The herbicide sounds like overkill imo, especially this early in the season with nothing going to seed yet you could probably just thoroughly weedwack the whole patch and till it under. Using herbicide to nuke an entire yard's worth of plants is a bit much.
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Apr 15, 2021 17:21
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alnilam posted:What is there now? After, do you want it to be 100% grass or do you want a flower or veggie bed somewhere in there? The herbicide sounds like overkill imo, especially this early in the season with nothing going to seed yet you could probably just thoroughly weedwack the whole patch and till it under. Using herbicide to nuke an entire yard's worth of plants is a bit much. I'd like to have it right now as just regular grass. I might put some raised beds for fruits/veggies in there next year, but right now I've got enough space for my garden plans in my beds in the backyard. It's specifically one of those "won't kill grass, kills other things" type of herbicides. Right now it is a giant mix of things:  That's technically a pic from last spring, but basically looks the same this year. Dead areas, crab grass, some good grass, low areas, high areas, clover (which I'm ok with, if it was mostly all clover I'd let it be.)
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Apr 15, 2021 17:41
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Okay duly noted on the garage door. I right after I posted, I had figured out it is a tension spring system but didn't know about the whole unwinding thing. I had even found a video that claimed to do the repair that didn't acknowledge it at all. Given the force I need to even get the door six inches off the ground, I think that video was all garbage. Also, an initial view on the cables is that they didn't actually snap, and that's kind of alarming. Something else probably is wrong and I don't want to get into that game.
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Apr 15, 2021 19:11
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The cables didn’t snap? Like they’re still attached? Betcha your spring broke, if you get up there and look at it you may find you now actually have two springs!
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Apr 15, 2021 19:28
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Bad Munki posted:The cables didn’t snap? Like they’re still attached? Betcha your spring broke, if you get up there and look at it you may find you now actually have two springs! This happened to me just randomly in the middle of an evening once, and it took me sooo long to figure out what the noise was. It was loud enough to know something went wrong, but it wasn't obvious what until the next time I tried to open the garage door. It went up about a foot then stopped.
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Apr 15, 2021 19:52
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'd like to have it right now as just regular grass. I might put some raised beds for fruits/veggies in there next year, but right now I've got enough space for my garden plans in my beds in the backyard. If you’re planning on making some grass into garden, consider using a sod cutter to just move healthy grass from the garden spots into the ugly spots (you can use the sod cutter to get a fresh surface to lay your sod into). I did this in my backyard with what’s essentially just a patchwork of healthy sod chunks laid onto flat-cut dirt, and it took pretty much right away. The sod cutter was pretty fun to use, too.
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Apr 15, 2021 20:42
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Okay duly noted on the garage door. I right after I posted, I had figured out it is a tension spring system but didn't know about the whole unwinding thing. I had even found a video that claimed to do the repair that didn't acknowledge it at all. Given the force I need to even get the door six inches off the ground, I think that video was all garbage. Yeah so this is what mine looked like when the spring broke:  I have a torsion spring on mine. You'll have either 1 or 2 springs up there. Mine has 2, 1 on each side of the center. If you see a gap without any sort of mounting hardware, like on my left spring above, there's your problem. If you don't have a torsion spring, you may have an extension spring:  In either case, you need professional service. If you can't lift the door, and the cable is intact, then it's pretty likely that a spring broke. Garage doors are heavy, and the spring takes a big part of that load. Springs have a lifetime. They break every so often. If you have 2 springs, get them both replaced at the same time because the other one is going to break soon as well.
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Apr 16, 2021 13:02
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DaveSauce posted:If you don't have a torsion spring, you may have an extension spring: I'm not saying DON'T get professional service on an extension spring if someone feels they need to, but they aren't anywhere NEAR as dangerous as a torsion spring. Any damage an extension spring can do it does during failure. If it's already broken, damage done (annd hoprfully that damage is zero because the safety cable held it in place.) It's back in its "relaxed" state (or possibly in multiple pieces, all relaxed) and unless you go around trying to stretch it or the one on the other side for funsies, it's not going to hurt you. IF you can get the garage door open (might need someone to help if it's too heavy without spring assistance) then any spring remaining will then be in the relaxed state and you can safely remove and replace them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXmTAYzs7ro I guess if you can't get the door open at all because the spring(s) is broken, then yeah call a professional cause they should have lifts/jacks to get the door up so the weight is taken off whatever spring(s) remain and they are no longer dangerous. DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Apr 16, 2021 |
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Apr 16, 2021 13:27
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I figured, I've never actually seen an extension spring in person. But I assumed that even in the "relaxed" state there was still some amount of tension on it, so I didn't know if there was a safe method to install or if you need special tools.
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Apr 16, 2021 20:29
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So I just decided to rip of my back “lawn” that was dead grass and weeds and this is where I’m at now: I’m going to attempt to level it out as much as I can before I lay down sod (about 750 sqft of St Augustine) but what else should I do to prepare the ground? My father says that St Augustine is “basically a weed” and doesn’t even require the amount of prep I’ve already done to grow, but I was hoping for a second opinion/confirmation of this.
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Apr 16, 2021 22:29
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zenintrude posted:So I just decided to rip of my back “lawn” that was dead grass and weeds and this is where I’m at now: Prepare for the water bill. I cut a piece of st Aug into 4 and patched around a 10x10ish? space in a season. Water and sunlight, more sun/heat = more water.
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Apr 16, 2021 23:31
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This worked perfectly, thank you all! New query: The igniter on my ancient furnace stopped working. Is it hopeless or should I try to get a replacement part?  
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Apr 17, 2021 04:21
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Christoph posted:This worked perfectly, thank you all! Try to find a model # on it and we can google around for you.
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Apr 17, 2021 04:34
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'd like to have it right now as just regular grass. I might put some raised beds for fruits/veggies in there next year, but right now I've got enough space for my garden plans in my beds in the backyard. You're going to need an insecticide as well. Your dead spots are likely due to grub infestation. I would go scorched earth with weed killer and an insecticide that kills grubs underground. Then you're going to want to do something to loosen up the soil and dethatch. Then you're going to want to aerate the soil and make any amendments to improve the soil health. Level out the low spots and go over those areas with a lawn roller to make sure that they don't sink again if you leave the soil too loose. It's also important to make sure you're watering is even and adequate. Then you can seed. You going to want something to cover the seed to keep it moist, whether that's a topsoil made for seeding, or you can use peat moss (this will not acidify your soil don't believe the hype.) And you want to baby the seeds and keep them damp but not too wet. It will take 10 days for them to germinate. Then you will baby them some more for another 2 to 3 weeks until they become large enough to mow. At some point in there you'll want to use a starter fertilizer before graduating to a grown up fertilizer. Ultimately it's probably less work to lay new sod. zenintrude posted:So I just decided to rip of my back “lawn” that was dead grass and weeds and this is where I’m at now: St. Augustine is basically a weed, but slightly less heinous than Bermuda grass. Many people just do plugs and it takes over everything. Just level it out, get your watering in order if you got a sprinkler system, and make any soil amendments you think you might need. Rent a lawn roller. They're like 20 bucks for the day. After you level out your soil, go over it with the roller and that will even everything out and compact it just enough. Put down a starter fertilizer on the soil. Lay your sod. Go over the side with the roller. This will flatten it out and remove any potential air bubbles underneath. Water heavily for the next two weeks. Please note that the sod from the sod farms comes loaded up with so much fertilizer that it will grow like crazy and you'll be mowing twice a week for the next few months after it's established. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Apr 17, 2021 |
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Apr 17, 2021 04:36
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Bless the landscapers in the thread - the meek whom shall inherit the backyards.
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Apr 17, 2021 04:45
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And here I am with a lawn that grows 6" a week this time of year, wishing I could kill it.
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Apr 17, 2021 06:23
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Lol I spent the last 5 years rehabbing a lovely lawn. A few years ago, I dug out about 300 sq ft of unsalvageable land and replaced it with a succulent/cactus garden in my front yard. Then over the last 6-8 months, I tore out 1000 sq ft of concrete in my backyard and replaced 500 sq ft of it with sod, at the same time trying to rehab the rest of my back grass. tldr; gently caress the upfront cost, the sod is the best results and I know I spent more than the sod over the 5 years attempting to save and reseed the other grass.  
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Apr 17, 2021 06:53
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The Mystery of the Posi-Temp Scroll A few weeks ago, the shower stopped giving hot water, so I replaced the Moen cartridge but kept the old one. Soaked the old cart in CLR for a week, set it aside. Noticed some debris inside it, finally investigated tonight.     Prior to disassembly. I tried using some tweezers to extract stuff with little success. I had to dig deeper.    That's better. With the plastic cap removed I was finally making progress, but the sheer volume of debris was becoming increasingly unsettling.  The final yield. Sadly, it's probably not the remains of a treasure map. If I had to guess I'd say it's plumber's tape but the consistency is wrong, it's too rigid . Definitely some kind of plastic, though. The new cartridge is starting to act up too, so I might have to go on switching between them until this stuff goes away.
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Apr 18, 2021 11:00
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Debris from poorly cut pipe? Like if you have CPVC or something. Hopefully your builders didn’t just use straight PVC. But it does kinda look like fuzz from poorly hacksawed/non-de-burred PVC maybe. e: Have you taken the aerator off any of your faucets lately? Might be interesting to see if that crud is system-wide or local to this one fixture. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 13:31
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Bad Munki posted:Debris from poorly cut pipe? Like if you have CPVC or something. Hopefully your builders didn’t just use straight PVC. Good call, kitchen sink aerotor is positive for crud. It's soaking in vinegar now. Makes sense since the water heater was replaced fairly recently.
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Apr 18, 2021 16:33
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Trying to refinish some old furniture that's been picked up from college, etc - this is a nice table but I'm not sure how to fix some of these big rear end cracks at the bottom of the table. Suggestions?
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Apr 19, 2021 19:28
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Two options that I can think of: 1) get some wood glue into the cracked area, then use clamps to squeeze the boards together, until the glue is dry. Then sand it smooth. I would guess that the table split in the first place because it was inadequately glued, and natural wood movement due to changes in moisture levels were stronger than the glue. That said, if it split once, it can split again. 2. fill it in with some epoxy. You'd need a fair amount of it, as well as a way to hold it in place while it sets up, and then you'd need to sand it smooth again. It would be obviously patched, but IMO a filled-in crack like that can be visually interesting and attractive.
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Apr 19, 2021 19:41
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One way is to cut off the end of the table just above the split... To add to the excellent advice above: Sand the table down and save the sawdust, and mix it into the wood glue or epoxy.
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Apr 19, 2021 21:37
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Alright, so I got a tricky one for y'all. I've been trying to get my room set up as like my own personal private space for a while now, and I'm almost done. I want to hang a TV, 23 pounds, on the wall. Simple, eh? Well, the wall has what I guess is wood paneling, painted over. I've seen people talk about easily removing the wood paneling, so maybe "paneling" isn't the word I want to use? It's a wooden wall with vertical grooves that originally came in slats, more on that later.  (closer up:)  No real problem, just need to find a stud and oh lord. So, we have a very big-brain studfinder that I guess checks the relative density of the materials involved, but it's gotta be flat on the wall. You just lay it on there, press the button, and sweep left and right, it tells you where the stud is, bing bang boom, you're done. Except, when I move it to the side, it passes over a vertical groove in the paneling, and instantly shits itself, letting off a beeping alarm and needing to be reset on a flat surface. So, the studfinder's useless. Maybe getting a better one will help? Not sure about that, or how to tell which ones are 'better.' "Well, all stud are exactly sixteen inches from the corner of the house, spaced every sixteen inches, so-" Ah, well, some places use twelve inches, and twenty-four wasn't uncommon with older houses, which this is. Also, and this may be relevant, this house is a pile of garbage built by insane people. I could probably have a whole thread just about it. And, as an inexperienced person, this bit of wall is between two closets, so... I would assume I measure from the corner of this smaller section? Hell if I know, though. "Got any electrical outlets on the bit of wall? They're always on studs." I do, as a matter of fact! So all I need to do is take off the cover and look in the- Well, every outlet had a little wooden box built around it. Can't see or reach poo poo. Insane people, like I said. "In the grooves of the paneling should be nail heads at every third stud-" Nope, not there. Nothin' doin'. "You could try the knock test?" I dunno if this is my fault, but it all sounds like wood to me. I've heard a couple people say that you don't really need studs if the paneling is more than a half-inch thick. I managed to find what appears to be one of the slats shoved in the top of a closet, and it's definitely more than that - maybe three quarters? But I don't want to risk two or three month's savings worth of TV on some fuckin' randos. So there's the situation. How can I find these studs?
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Apr 19, 2021 22:58
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If those are actual tongue and groove boards, they’re gonna be like 1/2” thick, and you can just mount your poo poo right on ‘em, I’d say. Use a toggle bolt or similar anchoring solution if you wanna be hardcore. e: read the last bit of your post. As long as you use good anchors, yes, you’re golden. But really if the stuff is 1/2 or 5/8 or whatever, just get some screws in there. Don’t use little #8 drywall screws or whatever, get something a little bigger diameter for bite. Some 1/4” short lags would do fiiiiine. Just don’t overtighten and strip the holes. This would, of course, leave 1/4” holes, but I’m gonna go out on a limb and guess that’s okay here. Just make sure your lags are fully threaded and don’t have a shoulder, so you have threads all through the wood. But in the 1-2” length that’s probably a gimme. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 23:12
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 I am not handy in the slightest, but those sure look like they could be described as "tongue-and-groove" to me.  And they appear to be exactly 3/4 of an inch thick. edit: Read the last bit of YOUR post, I'm honestly lost in the woods a bit about "short lags" and "shoulders" - feel free to dumb it down for me, but it sounds like you're just saying "don't get tiny baby screws, don't tighten 'em too much" which shouldn't be a problem. I got a kit for the mount, and it came with these hefty lads (card for size): [image removed] John Lee fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Apr 20, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 23:20
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Yep, those lags will do you splendidly. To wit: I clad the inside of my shop in 3/4” OSB specifically so I could mount poo poo all over the walls by just screwing into it. That includes a small lumber rack. The problem with people just mounting to walls normally is when they just screw into drywall or use weak anchor styles or set the TV on a glued-on mantle. You have maybe the MOST convenient situation for wall mounting here. Tell your studs to gently caress off and lag it in, enjoy  By short lags I just mean “you don’t need lag screws that are 5” long.” The shoulder is the part of the screw near the head that is unthreaded, your lags there don’t have shoulders and are perfect. And may well be exactly 1/4”. Yeehaw! Here’s a lag screw with a shoulder:  I think you can imagine the problem if that shoulder was too long and went all the way through the wood, such that the only thing the threads were in contact with was air. Also that’s some sweet beefy tongue and groove you got there, this all worked out nicely in your favor, you can mount the tv wherever the hell you want on that wall, studs be damned. Those screws probably won’t be long enough to gently caress with any electrical, either. Probably. Still try to locate wires if you can. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 23:27
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Ahhh, I getcha now, thanks for the explanation. My studfinder still works for avoiding electrical lines, so I'll just stay away from those and slam 'er up. Thanks again!
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Apr 19, 2021 23:34
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I’m legit happy for you, that’s a very convenient situation, turns out. As long as the t&g is sufficiently well-attached to the wall  Thats a pretty low bar in this case...if it doesn’t wiggle or bend when you push on the spot you want to mount, you’re surely good 
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Apr 19, 2021 23:38
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Done and done, the mount is up and stable and the TV looks great! Thanks a third time, I'm so glad to get this done.
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Apr 20, 2021 01:04
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Hey you should probably edit your license out of that post. I'm pretty sure the stuff on the front could be inferred from the barcodes on the back.
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Apr 20, 2021 01:53
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