|
How reliable an indicator of effectiveness is the NRR rating on hearing protectors?
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 20:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 02:48 |
|
|
NotNut posted:How reliable an indicator of effectiveness is the NRR rating on hearing protectors? It’s an ANSI/OSHA thing so it is definitely regulated, but it’s not as simple as noise level-NRR. Someone good at science can probably explain better, but decibels are not a linear scale so the jump between 100db and 110db is much bigger/louder than the jump between 75db and 85db. This article seems good? https://www.coopersafety.com/earplugs-noise-reduction
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 21:32
|
|
|
They also assume that you use them correctly. Foam ear plugs for example half the time I see them sticking out of people's ears. You have to get them squished small and slid into the ear canal to actually get any protection out of them. You should hear the air seal off as they expand. Or I'm using them incorrectly. https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/mining/content/earplug.html note that last picture.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 21:43
|
|
|
NotNut posted:How reliable an indicator of effectiveness is the NRR rating on hearing protectors? Read the sciency poo poo, but good rule of thumb is if it says something like "good for up to 100db" don't actually use it if you're going to be around something thats 100db. Basically stay under whatever the rating is. Every now and then I work around vac trucks which are loud as gently caress and when I do I wear plugs and muffs even though my muffs are "good" for up to XXdb.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 21:45
|
|
|
edit: this is neither quick, nor DIY. I'll see myself out.
admiraldennis fucked around with this message at 17:08 on May 2, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 22:18
|
|
|
floWenoL posted:So I'm trying to get a vacuum breaker off a bib to replace it with something that won't squirt me every time i shut off the bib. I've looked around the vacuum breaker and I *think* there's no set screw, but the bib is in an awkward place (surrounded by bushes) so I wasn't able to get a good look. I have something like that on one of mine, and there's definitely a set screw, but I think it's meant to get broken off after it's set so what remains no longer looks like a set screw. It's on the under-side and hard to see.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 22:32
|
|
|
I recently got a Panasonic "Whisper Thin" bath fan. Expected a standard 4-inch ducting but got this: What the heck kind of ducting am I supposed to use with this? Instructions leaflet that it comes with is unhelpful.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 22:35
|
|
|
melon cat posted:I recently got a Panasonic "Whisper Thin" bath fan. Expected a standard 4-inch ducting but got this: According to this manual you squeeze a 4" duct to fit (pg 8): http://pdf.lowes.com/installationguides/885170317888_install.pdf
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 22:41
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:According to this manual you squeeze a 4" duct to fit (pg 8): Haha. Wow. Looks like you're right. That's the worst design and won't work at all with my 4" semi-rigid ducting. Looks like I'll be returning this. I mean I could get the 4" oval to 3 inch reducer, but then I'd have to re-adapt 3" to 4" at the roof vent exit. melon cat fucked around with this message at 22:59 on May 1, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 22:57
|
|
|
Can anyone tell me what kind of cabinet hinges these are, or possibly find a link? Trying to do some low-budget hardware renos.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 23:07
|
|
|
IT BURNS posted:Can anyone tell me what kind of cabinet hinges these are, or possibly find a link? Trying to do some low-budget hardware renos. Looks a lot like: https://www.knobs4less.com/Amerock-Cabinet-Hinges-Self-Closing/amebp7550g10.html https://www.knobs4less.com/Amerock-Cabinet-Hinges-Self-Closing/amebp7566g10.html They have different measurements and your picture looks more like the 1/2" but it'll be easier for you to measure and check.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 23:42
|
|
|
NotNut posted:How reliable an indicator of effectiveness is the NRR rating on hearing protectors? Look at the attenuation rating, and subtract it from whatever the volume level is of the thing you’re being exposed to. Shoot for less than 85 (or it might be 95, can’t recall) dB after attenuation. If you need, you can combine ear canal plugs with earmuffs, in which case the attenuation is approximately additive.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2021 02:03
|
|
|
brugroffil posted:Anyone know if you can ask for time for labor for stuff like having to reassemble replacement cabinets etc? Our personal property damage is pretty limited but it'll probably take a day to go to the store, purchase the cabinets (and kids toys), bring them home, assemble etc. I’ll allow for some labor hours for clean-up/work you did after a loss. They probably won’t pay you hours for contents assembly, especially if you did all that originally. I’d tell them about the several hours you spent wet-vaccing water and had to run five loads of laundry for all of the wet laundry/towels you used to soak up water, things like that.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2021 18:24
|
|
|
dupersaurus posted:I have something like that on one of mine, and there's definitely a set screw, but I think it's meant to get broken off after it's set so what remains no longer looks like a set screw. It's on the under-side and hard to see. Thanks! I took another look and indeed there was a place that looked like it had the set screw (it was rusted, which made it easier to spot). I tried drilling it out but that didn't help. gently caress it, i'm just gonna cut it out with a Dremel!  Edit: A Dremel worked!  
floWenoL fucked around with this message at 22:18 on May 2, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 2, 2021 19:42
|
|
|
AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Read the sciency poo poo, but good rule of thumb is if it says something like "good for up to 100db" don't actually use it if you're going to be around something thats 100db. None of the ones I'm looking at have any "up to," it's just a NRR of 24 or 30 or whatever. What I'm trying to do specifically is find some muffs that have bluetooth so I can listen to podcasts while I work, but none of them seem to have ratings above 25, which worries me.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2021 20:16
|
|
|
NotNut posted:None of the ones I'm looking at have any "up to," it's just a NRR of 24 or 30 or whatever. What I'm trying to do specifically is find some muffs that have bluetooth so I can listen to podcasts while I work, but none of them seem to have ratings above 25, which worries me. 3m peltor. They make 30+ db NRR stuff. Get your checkbook ready.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2021 23:21
|
|
|
How do I change a dryer vent? Specifically the part on the outside of the house? Its for my friend's elderly mom, who doesn't have a lot of money so I want to help out if I can. It looks like a 4 inch pipe coming out, or rather going in to the wall. Should I try and get one of these?: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dundas-jafine-progard-exhaust-cap/1001044209 Or should I try to get one with some pipe attached to it? Such as something like this: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/mid-america-4-inch-hooded-dryer-vent-paintable/1001178875 Now, the second one I linked is for a place where you've got siding or other panelling, and this has brick, so I'd look for one that would be better for brick. I just used that as a quick example. The current vent opening/cover is likely as old as the house, so like 1970s or 80s vintage. From the outside, it *appears* to only have been caulked in to place but there are spots on each corner where there may have been screws at one time and the heads rusted off. I haven't had the chance to closely look on the other side of the wall yet, but it pretty much goes straight through the wall and in to the basement laundry room near the ceiling. Is this the sort of thing thats typically shoved through the wall and just held in place with some caulk? Since we're on the subject, if I decide to change the rest of the vent pipe as well, is it safe to assume that the "semi rigid" ducting is better than the floppy accordion type stuff?
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 01:35
|
|
|
I really don't like the caged dryer vents like you linked, they accumulate lint and get gross. I think if you get the second style you'll be able to hook it up just fine, that pipe is sized to extend through the wall. Ridgid pipe is better than accordion as always, but the flexy stuff's fine as long as you keep it rigid and don't do too narrow of bends/kinks. I'd do metal at a minimum though, the plastic stuff likes to fall apart. The cap should be screwed and caulked to the wall if possible, they're often just caulked, or left to rattle around with no connection of any sort.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 01:56
|
|
|
Elviscat posted:I really don't like the caged dryer vents like you linked, they accumulate lint and get gross. I think if you get the second style you'll be able to hook it up just fine, that pipe is sized to extend through the wall. Neato! Thanks! The cage part comes off the first one so you can get rid of the lint. My grandparents used to have one of those stringy orange/produce bags to catch lint on the outside of their vent and would use the lint to stuff things I think. Having seen this thing for years and years, I feel like there were *probably* never any screws to begin with, as I haven't noticed any rust stains indicating they were there and rusted out, unless they rusted out so long ago and the stains disappeared. What sort of screws should I use to hold a new one in place? Tapcons? Or similar?
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 02:09
|
|
|
Tapcons are probably your best bet, I always preferred Lead anchors, but I can't even find them anymore.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 02:32
|
|
|
AmbassadorofSodomy posted:How do I change a dryer vent? They typically have holes at the corners to screw them into the outside wall media. If it’s brick, you can use an adhesive silicone caulk to secure it. Inside, run as much metal ducting as you can, making as few 90-degree bends as possible. If it’s easier, use metallic flex ducting, it’ll be fine. You are doing a good thing. Pro tip: have a filtered wet-vac handy, you’re going to encounter a ton of lint. If you can get into the dryer chassis, vacuum out the lint there as well.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 03:15
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:3m peltor. They make 30+ db NRR stuff. Get your checkbook ready. Actually, I would go with cheap rated muffs (3m makes em) and Bluetooth wireless ear buds. Getting Bluetooth + 30+NRR is going to run you an absurd amount of money where a combination of two disparate things can get you what you want safely. Peltor stuff is for like police and helicopter pilots. Or for clipping onto hard hats.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 03:19
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Actually, I would go with cheap rated muffs (3m makes em) and Bluetooth wireless ear buds. Getting Bluetooth + 30+NRR is going to run you an absurd amount of money where a combination of two disparate things can get you what you want safely. Second that, also non-rated bluetooth earbuds that fit tightly to the canal are going to give you a few more dB attenuation, rated for it or not.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 03:38
|
|
|
NotNut posted:None of the ones I'm looking at have any "up to," it's just a NRR of 24 or 30 or whatever. What I'm trying to do specifically is find some muffs that have bluetooth so I can listen to podcasts while I work, but none of them seem to have ratings above 25, which worries me. Are you sure you need more than 25? Not sure what you’re trying to block out but for podcasts + power tools I have the 3M worktunes (NRR 24) and they make things pretty quiet. See also this article which has quite clear explanations of NRR in general: https://noisyworld.org/noise-reduction-rating-usage/
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 04:18
|
|
|
korora posted:Are you sure you need more than 25? Not sure what you’re trying to block out but for podcasts + power tools I have the 3M worktunes (NRR 24) and they make things pretty quiet. See also this article which has quite clear explanations of NRR in general: https://noisyworld.org/noise-reduction-rating-usage/ Maybe that is all I need then. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 07:11
|
|
|
korora posted:Are you sure you need more than 25? Not sure what you’re trying to block out but for podcasts + power tools I have the 3M worktunes (NRR 24) and they make things pretty quiet. See also this article which has quite clear explanations of NRR in general: https://noisyworld.org/noise-reduction-rating-usage/ Seconding these, they're awesome. Table saw, chop saw, chainsaw, lawnmower, nail guns, compressor vent, etc, etc... They're super comfortable and if your use-case is anything like what I listed, they work perfectly. They have excellent battery life too.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 16:39
|
|
|
It bears repeating that the NRR is only a measure of how much reduction in volume the muffs or plugs can provide. If the thing you’re being exposed to is 130 dB, then the difference between 24 and 30 dB is pretty significant. If it’s only 110 dB, then both will provide enough protection to get you below the permissible limit. Most of the stuff in the previous post is probably around 110-120 dB at a guess. You can combine disposable or re-usable earplugs with Bluetooth muffs to reduce the amount of attenuation you need out of the earmuffs, which might expand your selection a lot if you’re willing to combine with another type of protection.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 18:20
|
|
|
I'm putting cove moulding onto a bathroom ceiling. Do I really need a finish nailer for this sort of thing, or can I just buy some finishing nails and hammer in by hand? I've never been any good at trim installation and I'm thinking that it might be because I'm nailing in by hand and I could never get a good, flush trim. Also- have current gen lithium ion finish nailers finally improved to the point where they can nail just as good as pneumatic nailers? melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:54 on May 3, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 19:12
|
|
|
melon cat posted:I'm putting cove moulding onto a bathroom ceiling. Do I really need a finish nailer for this sort of thing, or can I just buy some finishing nails and hammer in by hand? I've never been any good at trim installation and I'm thinking that it might be because I'm nailing in by hand and I could never get a good, flush trim. I have the ryobi finish nailer and I really like it. I'm really good at sinking nails but man beating the crap out of trim, especially ceiling trim is a night mare.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 20:15
|
|
|
I can't imagine trying to do anything more than small trim repairs without a nailer. If you're doing anything more than a single room, it's probably worth the cost, even if you just sell it afterwards.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 20:25
|
|
|
It is in principle possible to hammer in finishing nails by hand, but you'll need a nail set to avoid dinging up the trim. And finishing nails bend really easily, so they can be hard to drive.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 20:43
|
|
|
Doing it with a hammer sounds super difficult. Home depot rents trim nailers for a pretty reasonable price, if you don't envision needing to own one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Paslode-Cordless-Finish-Nailer-902400/309396362
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2021 23:42
|
|
|
So new home owners, new construction home. For some reason the builders put carpet down in the sump pump room. We just checked the room tonight and the floor around the pump pit is very damp. We've pulled the carpet back and don't see anything unusual and the pit itself is fairly shallow looking. Any ideas on what's causing it or how weird this is?
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2021 03:10
|
|
|
melon cat posted:I'm putting cove moulding onto a bathroom ceiling. Do I really need a finish nailer for this sort of thing, or can I just buy some finishing nails and hammer in by hand? I've never been any good at trim installation and I'm thinking that it might be because I'm nailing in by hand and I could never get a good, flush trim. I did it by hand for years until I had enough money to get a Paslode. Hammering trim nails, especially into cove, is a skill that goes stale quickly if not frequently used. Hammer misses that mar the trim, difficulty getting the nail set to sit right, misses with the nail set...I ain’t ever going back to that. Kingtheninja posted:So new home owners, new construction home. For some reason the builders put carpet down in the sump pump room. We just checked the room tonight and the floor around the pump pit is very damp. We've pulled the carpet back and don't see anything unusual and the pit itself is fairly shallow looking. Any ideas on what's causing it or how weird this is? Fill the crock and make your pump cycle a couple times and see if the discharge line is leaking at a joint. Or you are seeing normal groundwater, since the sump pump crock should be at the lowest point in the basement. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:34 on May 4, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 4, 2021 14:31
|
|
|
Simple question: what’s the least damaging way to remove a stripped screw (head broke off) from metal? It’s part of a chair that’s otherwise in good shape, so I’d rather not mess up the frame too badly. Don’t have a lot of kit at home, so far I’ve doused it in lock lubricant and tried to remove it with needle-nose players, but after half a turn it binds and I start chewing up what’s left of the screw. E: contemplating getting a drill bit for metal and just boring it out. If I go that route, I’m guessing I should get a bit that’s one or two sizes smaller than the screw? It’s about 5mm in diameter. Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 18:44 on May 4, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 4, 2021 18:38
|
|
|
You can try using a screw extractor bit. The way that works is that you drill a hole in the screw, then stick the extractor bit in the hole. It's counter-threaded, so when you turn the bit counterclockwise, it grips the sides of the hole and causes the screw to turn.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2021 18:57
|
|
|
Any suggestions on a quick and easy fix for these holes? The wall is concrete. 
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2021 20:42
|
|
|
I don't understand the question, what's wrong with it?
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2021 21:05
|
|
|
go back in time and drill a proper hole with proper conduit for those wires instead of going at it with a jackhammer while drunk on vodka? Other than that I'm not much help but that's a real poo poo job there. Going to at minimum need to conduit those wires and then re-concrete it or, remove the wires, and then patch it and then drill and properly conduit . I'm no mason so not sure HOW you achieve those but yeah it's not just patch it up.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2021 21:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 02:48 |
|
|
Churchill posted:Any suggestions on a quick and easy fix for these holes? The wall is concrete. Which country do you live in? Exposed wiring is actually allowed in some countries.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2021 21:09
|
|