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Recently close don a condo. The kitchen doesn't have a backsplash. Wife wants subway tile, and I was looking in to planning that out, but the gap between the counter and the cabinets is roughly 13.5 inches, so with 3" tiles we'd still have a sizeable gap. How would you go about tiling something like that? Have an accent tile on the top or bottom to fill that space? Do something right in the middle? Related, I've never done any tiling, but it seems fairly straightforward. Is this a doable project for someone that is fairly handy?
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Nov 23, 2020 03:57
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Thanks all, great info. Going to spend some more time thinking this out and figuring out what to do, but I have a related question. Currently there is a piece of countertop (quartz counter), that sticks up from the back of the counter and against the wall. It's attached in some way, I assume adhesive, to the counter itself. It makes kind of an L shape from the counter to wall. Would it be possible to remove that piece of quartz from the top of the counter and tile that space instead? I think it's about 3 inches or so. I think it would look a lot better to have counter then tile, instead of counter, counter, tile. Plus the piece is about 2" thick so it's taking up a decent chunk of counter real estate.
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Nov 23, 2020 15:50
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AFewBricksShy posted:Post a picture of this please, I need to see exactly what you're dealing with. Here are some pictures. Let me know if you need a picture of another part of it. https://imgur.com/a/NteaIUZ
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Nov 23, 2020 17:01
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Cross-post from plumbing thread We got a new washer/dryer, but the washer is sticking quite a bit further from the wall than I had anticipated due to the steel water lines, which are both straight ended. I see that they make lines with an elbow on one end, but that would still have the water line sticking out from the water supply box pretty far, and I don't think would give us much more space. Would it be dumb to put an elbow adapter coming off the supplies to angle them down against the wall, then use the elbow end of an elbow hose to attach to the washer? Due to the hose the washer is about 4" from the wall, and the installation manual says it only needs 2". 2" isn't a lot, but it is in the pantry the washer/dryer are in
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Dec 1, 2020 22:39
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Elviscat posted:Can you take pictures of the setup? You can see the water coming off the supply on the top, and going into the washer on the bottom. It's a compact stackable set, so there's a lot going on back there, but I think the main limiter to moving the machine back is the supply line. I haven't done anything yet, but I did pick up two of these hoses, along with these elbows: https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-4-ft-L-3-4-in-FHT-Inlet-x-3-4-in-Outlet-Braided-Stainless-Steel-Washing-Machine-Fill-Hose/1000096748 https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-2-Pack-200-PSI-Brass-Washing-machine-connector/1002103270 
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Dec 2, 2020 01:45
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AFewBricksShy posted:Did you ever get your backsplash sorted out? I'm curious as to how it turned out. Nope, still planning
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Dec 2, 2020 18:06
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Do washing machine drain hose extensions work or is that just asking for a leak?
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Dec 9, 2020 17:48
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3D Megadoodoo posted:How long do you need it? I think I might be ok - looks like the drain hose was super far down the standpipe so I should have enough hose for what I want to do
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Dec 10, 2020 14:58
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I want to build some shelves next to our new stacked washer/dryer, but I'd like some advice on the best way to go about that. Free standing? Attach it to the wall? There will be wall on two sides of the shelves, and the washer/dryer on the last side. There is a stud on the left side of the power outlet. Poor MS paint of what I want to do. The white plywood is from a shelf the PO put in, but I had to take it out in order to fit the stacked washer/dryer 
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Dec 11, 2020 15:46
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admiraldennis posted:Yay snowblower season. I'm having an issue with my snowblower and I think I narrowed the issue down to the governor not being set correctly. It's causing surging
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Dec 18, 2020 03:15
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corgski posted:I’ll give you the same advice I got when I was getting my water heater replaced: Do tankless heaters have a longer lifetime than regular heaters?
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Feb 25, 2021 02:47
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Suggestions for cutting corrugated sheet metal? Only doing straight cuts. I have an oscillating tool and a circular saw.
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Mar 8, 2021 20:35
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Currently getting some quotes for repointing our brick foundation. 1924 construction, so I thought you should use a softer mortar - one of the guys I talked to on the phone went on an on about using hydraulic cement. I thought if you used a mortar that was a lot harder than the brick it can cause the bricks to crack. Should I be weary of this company?
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Mar 19, 2021 01:58
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corgski posted:You’re correct to be concerned, you need to find a mason who works with older foundations and knows how to match the hardness and permeability of the original mortar. PO put up whitewash - will that damage the brick? Also I should say the foundation is cement with a few feet of brick on top of the cement, so it's not entirely brick
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Mar 19, 2021 15:10
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Who do you call to do a full replacement window including the framing? All the window companies I talk to just want to do inserts but the window I need to replace will probably need to be reframed. A carpenter?
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Mar 22, 2021 04:07
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I went to replace the kerf weather seal on my door, which involved popping off the old one and putting up a new one, but when I took off the old one I discovered that the PO painted over some sort of wood finish, so the paint doesn't really stick and it just peeled off in big pieces. Before I put up the new kerf and re-paint, how can I strip off the current finish? Scraping? Sanding?
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Apr 4, 2021 22:38
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I have a brick on concrete foundation. Most of the brick is above ground, but one side of the house has about two courses of brick (the first two above the concrete) under ground. Depending on the spot the soil is 2-5 inches above the concrete. Is there a way to mitigate water without re-grading the whole yard? If it was graded like it needed to be the yard would be below the sidewalk. Some of the brick in the basement is damaged from the water. We're getting all the brick repointed, and I was going to dig out the two courses of brick, but I'm not sure leaving a trench next to the foundation will help with water infiltration - and I imagine it would make it worse.
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Apr 11, 2021 02:48
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1. I've had good luck with purdy brushes 1a. The brush usually says what kind of paint it's good for. An angled 3" brush (I have a purdy 3" angled 'clearcut' brush that's great) for cutting should be the only brush you need, and then maybe a 3" roller and a 7/9" roller 6. Depends on how good the paint is 7. I've used a few different paints, and I have to say I didn't expect there to be much difference between paint brands but... Use Ben Moore regal select. It rolls on so much better than anything else I've used, has good coverage with 2 coats, has zero VOC, and has good color selection. As far as sheen, we used eggshell for all the rooms execpt for the kitchen, where we used pearl. The regal select will probably run you $10-15 over home depot or Lowes house brand but it's worth it e: if you're not in the us I don't know if you could find purdy brushes or Ben Moore paint The Slack Lagoon fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Jun 4, 2021 |
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Jun 4, 2021 05:40
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We had a storm come through and the power went out on the whole block. Power came back on, but one of the breakers keeps tripping as soon as it's reset. Should I replace the breaker to see if that's the issue, and if it isn't get an electrician, or should I get an electrician to check it out first?
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Jul 8, 2021 03:19
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Alarbus posted:What circuit is it / what's on it? My one breaker trips if it's raining sideways hard enough because I need to replace the outdoor receptacle cover. Did an appliance or something short out, etc It's recessed led ceiling lights - in the kitchen, a bedroom, and hallway. The outlets in those rooms are on separate circuits. No appliances
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Jul 8, 2021 13:00
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I'm going to be hanging some shelves with thicc metal brackets for a shelf that is 3/4" x 9" x 5'. I'm planning on using 4 brackets to span the length. I think I can get some of the brackets into studs, but I'm not sure it'll line up with the other studs. Should wall anchors be strong enough? Should I use toggle bolts? I imagine there will be books and/or a mineral collection on the shelf
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Aug 25, 2021 14:38
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I have an 80% furnace I may consider getting rid of and replacing it with a central heat pump. My question is this: I have an atmosphere vented water tank that taps into the furnace flue. What kind of company would I hire to have them put a separate chimney liner for the water tank?
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May 4, 2022 20:23
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Paint question: can I put latex paint over alkyd primer?
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Jul 4, 2022 04:26
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