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Dr. Habibi
Sep 24, 2009



Just about fainted when the Awful app had the old one greyed out.

The fix it fast thread is dead, long live the fix it fast thread! :toot:

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Dr. Habibi
Sep 24, 2009



A 1-gang low voltage bracket would have allowed you to bypass the box entirely, so long as you’re just doing coax/Ethernet. Then you just mount the plate to that.

To fix your gap there - small thin piece of wood, angle that in (put it in so it’s vertical), attach drywall screws above and below the spot where the hole is, then pop the piece you cut out back against that, and slap a drywall screw in that. See at about 7:08 in this video for a demonstration:

https://youtu.be/qbupCzSPW9o&t=7m8s

Dr. Habibi fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Sep 18, 2022

Dr. Habibi
Sep 24, 2009



EL BROMANCE posted:

I’m so bad at this poo poo I don’t even know if this is considered a plumbing issue to put in that thread or not. Like it feels like yes because of my potential to get wet, but also no because I’m hoping to not involve pipes.

So here it is. Like many people, I am the proud owner of an indoor toilet and despite the fact it’s relatively new it’s not working properly. For a few months it would run continuously following a flush and my way to deal with it was take the top off and apply pressure wherever felt good until it would make ‘the good noise’ then stop and I could ignore it again. Alas in the same way this doesn’t work forever with the human body, it got to the point where this doesn’t help anymore.

Here is a photo of the toilet guts as it feels easier than trying to explain which type of toilet it is.



Don’t let the water level being below the top of that cylinder on the right fool you, it desperately wants to fill up and run over the edge but I’ve cut the water and flushed it to stop this.

Things I’ve tried based on YouTube videos full of people badly explaining stuff they don’t appear to know much about :

* adjusted that screw on the left hand side, I’ve gone from one extreme to the other and back and tried parts in between and it seems to make no difference.

* underneath that right hand side cylinder is a yellow rubber seal that apparently is super prone to failure. The one I took off seemed mainly fine but had a tiny crack in the rubber I guess? I was not filled with confidence that this was the answer, and it appears that was correct as it also made no difference.

Are there any other obvious quick and easy attempts I could make to resolve this by myself without having to call someone in? Money is naturally tight at this time of year, but if it’s a ‘beyond my abilities’ thing I’ll just stump up the cash and sell my dogs Xmas or something. (I will not actually do this).

I consider myself “eh, alright” at this sort of stuff, and I’d say it’s well within the realm of at least trying it yourself.

Luckily your pic includes the model of your toilet, and here’s the parts diagram from Kohler.

I would replace K-1188999 (Flush Valve Kit, the center part of your pic) and K-GP1138930 (Fill Valve Kit, the left). Turn off the water at the shutoff below the toilet (if this is seized up/not working, don’t force it, but you’ll need to turn off water to the whole house/another shut off branch if you’ve got one), and then drain the tank. Then you can go about replacing them (probably several videos you can find on YouTube, and it sounds like you’ve watched a couple of them already).

I’m sure somebody more knowledgeable can come along and potentially tell you how to do it for <$50, but for ~$50, that’s how I’d tackle it. Or at least try before calling a plumber.

Dr. Habibi
Sep 24, 2009



As a last resort, before throwing that fridge out, you know the answer, say it with me:

Liquinox (or maybe even Tergazyme)

Dr. Habibi
Sep 24, 2009



Counterpoint: I’ve used incredibly lovely stick-on silicone bumper replacements and for the cost of scraping those old ones off and popping the new ones on, they’ve been pretty much solid for about 5 years.

If you’re looking for lowest lift, my vote’s for:

Flipperwaldt posted:

None of the 3M silicone bumpers in my kitchen have fallen off yet, but it's only been three years.

Dr. Habibi
Sep 24, 2009



Beef Eater posted:

It fell because there was a water leak from the room above. One of the laths came detached from the joist, and I'm guessing that caused it to sag down (we could see the plaster sagging and cracking for over a year before it actually fell). Can I use a screw to reattach the lath to the joist instead of a nail so it's more secure?

+1 everything that PainterofCrap said. Definitely pre-drill if you're going to do that because those lath snap like Pringles if you just hit 'em once with a hammer a lot of time, depending on how old.

I'd add that I've done a 3/8 drywall patch over the lath after a wall's plaster fully collapsed (held in with a couple layers of wallpaper :haw:) & can add that it's tricky to blend in on a wall. Not sure if a ceiling would be better or worse, but... the more you know.

Dr. Habibi
Sep 24, 2009



Cpt_Obvious posted:

Applied caulk to my bathtub and it cracked almost immediately. It's an old house, so the tub moves a bit when you step into it which I assume is what's causing it to creck. Any ideas?

Think the guidance for this is to use silicone with the tub full of water. That’ll add some weight in and give you a fighting chance of it not cracking if it’s not too much movement.

Dr. Habibi
Sep 24, 2009



of note, squirrels are diurnal and from experience, sound like a sentient football throwing itself through your wall/attic/spaces during the late-morning/mid day timeframe.

I’m betting rats if they’re staying in the attic.

Dr. Habibi
Sep 24, 2009



Dr. Lunchables posted:

I just want it to be possums. It would make me happier than rats.

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Dr. Habibi
Sep 24, 2009



You probably want a pack of cedar shingles or something if you’re looking for a wider one. But also,

withak posted:

You get them from the same shops that sell baseball caps with the bill on the side.

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