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Boob light base?
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Oct 20, 2020 21:45
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 06:06 |
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Keep in mind that you'll need to budget for (proper) installation as well.
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Nov 1, 2020 17:49
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Oscillating mulit tool?
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Nov 12, 2020 12:25
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Don't know where else to ask this..... My family has an RV trailer, its parked at a campground. Tree fell on the fucker. It came from the "front" side (the side with the doors etc), along the back there are electrical lines and most likely the tree is in contact with them. These aren't huge high voltage lines, they probably only carry like 120 volts or whatever (I know I know, its still enough to kill me). The park is closed for the season, but as is my understanding, there is probably still power in these lines. I should not be loving with this tree until power is shut off correct? I'm planning on heading up tomorrow with my brother to hopefully do some sort of "something" about this. Park owner will be there, hopefully he can get the power shut off.
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Nov 21, 2020 20:24
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Word, thanks homies. The lines are well inside the park, and feed each site off a separate meter (Each site has its own meter is what I mean and we are billed electricity by the park) so likely they belong to the park. My brother is talking to the owner, or will be talking to him and we will see what happens from there. Park owner is recovering from knee replacement, so likely he won't be demonstrating that the power is off by swinging the first axe....... I'll bring a lock however, to try and lock out whatever sort of switch disconnects this line. Or lock the box that the fuse is taken out of etc.
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Nov 21, 2020 21:46
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My brother already sent me some pics that he got from the park owner. It doesn't look *that* bad, likely the wires saved the trailer from major damage. Second time something like that has happened to me. The park is closed for the winter, so there shouldn't be anyone there (running a genny) besides the owner and his wife, who normally would have been in florida for about a month by now but, the plague and his knee surgery and all. I shall assume for the time being that the owner knows where the shut off for the line is. Fake edit: For some reason the pics won't upload to imgur. Keep getting an error message.   
wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Nov 21, 2020 |
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Nov 21, 2020 23:11
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Use outdoor cords outside.
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Nov 23, 2020 01:24
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Got back from the trailer last night. Left just as the snow started really coming down. It wasn't that treacherous, but saw a few accidents including a GMC van pull the bumper off a Chrysler Sebring right in front of me. The power line running behind us probably helped. Damage *appears* to be not that bad. One small hole in the roof. And a bent piece of metal that runs the length of the trailer on the inside (Upper frame rail?). On the other hand, it seems like its going to be dozens of hours of labour toe replace a few hundred bucks worth of materials/parts. But thats for the insurance company to decide. Some pics: The hole  Back side:  Turns out there were two trees down...   Branch trimmings. You could hide a car under that quite easily.  Pile of Firewood. THe stuff under the blue tarp was already there.  We taped some plastic over the hole and then put this tarp up. Got it done just in time. The snow started coming down as we were tying it off. 
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Nov 23, 2020 12:38
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I guess I don't know for sure, but a poorly installed AC system probably just means you're too hot. lovely install jobs on water heaters can make big holes in houses. lovely installs of furnaces can cause there to be holes in the ground, where dead people get put. Ninja edit: I guess they don't inspect the furnace. Maybe they should.
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Nov 26, 2020 02:34
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OSU_Matthew posted:
How big a hole should be cut in to it, and what sort of bucket do you recommend for under the hole? 5 gallon ok?
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Nov 28, 2020 17:14
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Corla Plankun posted:I'm running an extension cord for my xmas lights out through a window, so it is going to stay cracked for the duration of the holidays. What can I put in the crack to keep bugs out (and the weather a little bit, but this isn't a big deal because I live in central texas)? I think any old uv-proof foam would do but my searching has lead to products that cost about ten times what I'm willing to pay for a gap-filler. I'd sooner put some old t-shirts in the hole than pay jeff bezos 20 dollars for some disposable foam. I was going to suggest some foam pipe insulation or a pool noodle sliced lengthwise but that'll probably work.
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Dec 6, 2020 20:09
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OSU_Matthew posted:I know salt is bad for concrete, but what about something like this beet juice stuff? Pretty sure something like that is what a lot of DOTs use Its supposed to be hell on cars, but maybe if you're just parking on it instead of driving over it/ getting misted by it from other cars etc, maybe its not so bad then?
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Dec 10, 2020 12:30
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OSU_Matthew posted:Really? I thought it was supposed to have some natural anti-corrosion properties, that it was the salt and brine that gets put on roads that absolutely knackers vehicles. I guess I don't know for sure but I always assumed that the beet juice was the same as the other ' anti-icing liquid' that most road authorities seem to use.
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Dec 10, 2020 18:24
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life is killing me posted:I can hear the pump working, or trying to. I saw some liquid go through but then it stopped. Opened dishwasher when drain cycle ended and it’s still pooled at bottom. At this point I’m thinking drain? Not sure what to look for with check valve For the check valve you'll have to get a bit more indepth. I changed the drain pump on my dishwasher this summer, it was underneath the dishwasher, so it required completely removing the dishwasher from the cabinet and then tipping it backwards to expose the pump. If you go to repairclinic.com, and type in your dishwasher make and model, you can probably look for the drain pump on there and there might be a video on how to remove and replace it. There was one for replacing the main pump on mine, which I did two summers ago, I was able to do it, and by doing that, I was able to figure out how to do the same with the drain pump even though there wasn't a video for that one specifically. Even if its just the valve itself and not the actual pump, if there is a video of some sort for your particular model, it will probably give you a god idea of what to look for and how to remove it from under your counter. Also, you can order replacement parts from there. In my particular case, the "check valve" was just a little rubber flap. Yours may or may not be the same, but like one goon mentioned, it could be something as simple as a piece of corn kernel stuck in there.
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Dec 19, 2020 23:31
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Do people really have dishwashers that run for 2.5 hrs? Mine it like a 10ish + year old frigidaire and its done in about 45-60 minutes. I'm not looking at the dishes through a microscope, but with an exception or two for a dish thats got some poo poo really crusted on there, everything appears to come out visibly clean.
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Dec 20, 2020 19:56
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tater_salad posted:My low tier bosch is 2 hrs to run from start to finish. I feel like the last 30-45 is dry time. Also it's really not an issue. I usually run mine at night or in the morning after work from home breakfast. Really doesn't bother me at all. Word. I guess if you're taking dry time in to account that adds significantly. I never pay attention to that part. Just when it's making noise.
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Dec 20, 2020 20:22
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life is killing me posted:
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Dec 20, 2020 21:24
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Big Dick Cheney posted:Can you get a generator that runs on your home natural gas connection? Is that a bad idea, since if your electricity is gone due to a natural disaster, natural gas might be gone too? Yes. No. Maybe but maybe not.
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Jan 12, 2021 00:07
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floWenoL posted:Okay, so I got a vise grip like someone recommended to hold the top, and it hits against the backsplash so I don't need someone to hold it. However, when I try to twist the nut, it really is stuck. I'm still using a regular wrench (vertically) and another vise grip, so I can't get that much leverage, but from the videos I've seen of basin wrenches, I'm not sure if they'll be able to grip the nut as well. Its hard to tell from the picture, but is it possibly a reverse thread? If you have a dremel, you might consider getting a cutting disc and cutting through the nut.
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Jan 15, 2021 12:27
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I imagine that this thing is doing a Hank Hill AUUUGGHHHH!!!
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Jan 18, 2021 22:00
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Big Dick Cheney posted:Just got a kerosene heater for my wood shop. Is there anyway to avoid spending $10 a gallon on K-1 kerosene? Is gas station kerosene really not an option? Any other way to lower the cost to run this thing? Diesel and Kerosene are very similar. You might be able to use diesel in place of Kerosene. Bonus points if you go to a place that has coloured diesel and then its cheaper because you don't have to pay road taxes.
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Jan 22, 2021 14:15
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Corla Plankun posted:What is in your fridge? The risk you run if you do this is you forget and freeze the gently caress out of your fridge and maybe leak coolant, and it will be very obvious that you messed with it. There would have to be something really precious in that fridge for me to take the risk instead of just buying a bag of ice and putting the stuff I couldn't eat in time in a cooler. Also, where is the goon in question located? Its winter, and cold in much of the country. If they're in Texas then maybe its not that cold, but somewhere else, a cooler on the porch/balcony etc would probably work.
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Jan 23, 2021 04:31
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The hammer drill and masonry bit will probably be fine, it will just take more time. Careful not to crack the brick.
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Feb 8, 2021 01:45
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AFewBricksShy posted:I had a pair of steel toe docs about 10 years ago and the toe ended up being super uncomfortable (basically I could feel it pressing against the side of my toe when wearing them). They didn't fit properly then. I have wide feet and wear steel toes every day and just get boots that are a haalf or one size bigger. Stock insoles suck too. Spring for a good set.
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Feb 12, 2021 18:20
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All this caulk chat is making me tingle.
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Feb 15, 2021 00:55
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Every time I have to do plumbing, which is thankfully not often I always curse the fuckers who don't put a shut off valve for every fixture, or every set of fixtures (like shut off for bathroom X, laundry machine/tub, Kitchen etc)
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Feb 16, 2021 23:33
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melon cat posted:I was in my attic crawl space and noticed that some snow is blowing into the attic: Suck the poo poo out with a shop vac maybe, and then put a fan on it. To keep poo poo out, maybe shove some plastic in there.
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Feb 18, 2021 22:49
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mutata posted:Yeah, it's annoying that the valves in the wall and the fixture outside aren't hot swappable. Definitely a factor when choosing what to install. Either gotta pick a brand that's gonna last 15 years or pick a brand that has easy replacements available. I typically buy an extra replacement (something) for situations like that too. Maybe the (something) breaks on a holiday and its broken bad enough hat it doesn't work, or leaks like a motherfucker or something. DELETE CASCADE posted:we gotta replace a retaining wall on the side of a hill, it's about 22 feet long and 3.5 feet high, made of wood. the contractor we called (sf bay area) wants $10k. is that insane, or am i insane, who is insane in this situation? Doesn't sound awful. Did they give you a detailed description of what they plan to do in the quote? Does that include permits etc? Any engineering work involved?
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Feb 20, 2021 02:12
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Wood these days does seem to be getting expensive with the plague and all that. I've heard of people around my area driving hours to find a half dozen boards because the local places are out and they want to finish their deck projects. Is it worth 8000? Don't know, but its probably more expensive than normal. Without having the quote in front of me, there is probably also things like disposal of old materials, landscape restoration, possibly equipment rentals. Some miscellaneous stuff in there, a mark up for the materials, unless the contractor is your home boy from way back, you're not likely getting the materials at cost. It will have to be bought and picked up or delivered to the site. There will be taxes on the materials, taxes on equipment rentals, taxes on labour etc.... All the little and big things add up. If you say the contractor is legit and will do things right, then the quote is probably a fair one. Contractors that are truly good, and legit cost real money because they actually do it right and will stand behind their work. I don't know what the market is like in your particular area, but that price doesn't seem to toss any red flags to me. There may not be any engineering involved or permits needed but legit work costs a legit price. Based on the quote you were given, if you look up the material cost, how much could you do the job for yourself? Like whats the price for X number of 2x8, X number of 2x12, What about the drain materials etc...
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Feb 20, 2021 05:30
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Would the goon be better off putting the Y fitting right at the roof outlet? I'm definitely not an engineer, but I could *maybe* see that making it less likely that the goon will smell someone else making GBS threads in another bathroom. OTOH, maybe that would make it more likely?
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Mar 3, 2021 23:48
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Toebone posted:I'd use that connector, wrap the joint with foil tape, then tighten the clamps. What this goon says. Despite the name don't actually use "duct tape" on that poo poo, you want to use this: https://www.homedepot.ca/search?q=foil%20tape#!q=foil%20tape
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Mar 5, 2021 19:02
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You see the thing I hav the red line running along? Its kind of a lovely job,(my ms paint skills) but try sliding that thing with a screwdriver or something. That, or something in there similar to that should move the latching mechanism to get the door open.
wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Mar 10, 2021 |
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Mar 10, 2021 02:22
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I didn't see an appliance thread anywhere so I'll ask here. I'm thinking about replacing an appliance or two in the not too distant future. Does the same rule for plumbing and electrical fixtures apply to appliances? You typically only find "the good poo poo" at an actual appliance store? Like how the real poo poo typically comes from a plumbing supply or electrical supply store and the cheaper versions come from lowes-depot?
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Mar 10, 2021 13:18
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DaveSauce posted:You need a thread gauge. There are some metric threads that are drat near identical to imperial, but IIRC those are way smaller sizes (e.g. M5 vs 10-32). But in any case, the manufacturer isn't likely to use fittings/threads/etc. that you can't find from McMaster or something, so if you're measurements come up with a funny number then it's not likely to be right. I think this goon is in euro-land somewhere. Don't know if Mc Master has branches over there. Also, speaking of Metric and imperial threads that just happen to be the same, I think 5/16" - 18 is the same as something metric. When I took the (original) rear rotors off my Corolla they were stuck on the hub and I had to use the old thread something in to that little hole trick. I kinda randomly jammed a 5/16" 18 bolt in there because it looked about right, and it threaded in pooped the rotor off and came back out with no damage to the bolt threads.
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Mar 31, 2021 17:28
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I live in a ground floor, poverty spec on bedroom condo. I'm hoping to swank up my kitchen a bit by getting some new cupboard doors. I don't want to completely rip out the old ones and do a major reno because that would require a permit from the city and gently caress that poo poo. Currently everything is particle board, and the doors/ drawers just have some fake plastic woodgrain looking poo poo covering them. I was hoping to take each door to a cabinet or wood working shop and have them cut some pieces of real wood to size and then drill holes for the handles and hinges in the appropriate spots. Is that an actual thing that people do on a regular basis? Or would they look at me like I had two heads and be all like "you just want to replace the DOORS"?
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Apr 10, 2021 16:10
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:I live in a ground floor, poverty spec one bedroom condo. I'm hoping to swank up my kitchen a bit by getting some new cupboard doors. Uhhhhhh. Anyone?
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Apr 11, 2021 17:41
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actionjackson posted:thanks! It's weird because I don't think it was ever taped and I've been here ten years. At least I don't see any tape or tape residue. Thanks for the advice, to the other goons too. Did they paint right over the veneer (?) or did they peel it off and paint the particle board directly? Or do you have wood (heh)? If I could, I wouldn't mind replacing the whole thing with the exact same configuration, just better materials, while keeping my same (granite) counter tops, sink etc. As they are still fine. At least in my mind, they are fine. Its the veneer thats kinda peeling and or chipping a little bit. TBH, everything else *seems* ok if just needing a good deep cleaning and if I just did the doors, I'd see about getting wood (heh) thats roughly the same color/shade so that it doesn't look out of place having like darker doors, but lighter framing, or whatever its called. The insides of my cupboards are generic white, slightly coarse plastic glued to the particle board, which I'm fine with.
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Apr 11, 2021 23:53
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actionjackson posted:I haven't had it done, I just had them come by for an estimate. For the door it says "maple veneer, solid panel with MDF center" Word. Thanks for the advice. I'll look in to just doing the doors and then deep cleaning the poo poo out of the rest of it. Its not that bad, despite the goon stereotype, but I should probably pay a bit more attention to the non-visible places in here.
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Apr 12, 2021 00:33
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NotNut posted:How reliable an indicator of effectiveness is the NRR rating on hearing protectors? Read the sciency poo poo, but good rule of thumb is if it says something like "good for up to 100db" don't actually use it if you're going to be around something thats 100db. Basically stay under whatever the rating is. Every now and then I work around vac trucks which are loud as gently caress and when I do I wear plugs and muffs even though my muffs are "good" for up to XXdb.
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May 1, 2021 21:45
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 06:06 |
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How do I change a dryer vent? Specifically the part on the outside of the house? Its for my friend's elderly mom, who doesn't have a lot of money so I want to help out if I can. It looks like a 4 inch pipe coming out, or rather going in to the wall. Should I try and get one of these?: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dundas-jafine-progard-exhaust-cap/1001044209 Or should I try to get one with some pipe attached to it? Such as something like this: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/mid-america-4-inch-hooded-dryer-vent-paintable/1001178875 Now, the second one I linked is for a place where you've got siding or other panelling, and this has brick, so I'd look for one that would be better for brick. I just used that as a quick example. The current vent opening/cover is likely as old as the house, so like 1970s or 80s vintage. From the outside, it *appears* to only have been caulked in to place but there are spots on each corner where there may have been screws at one time and the heads rusted off. I haven't had the chance to closely look on the other side of the wall yet, but it pretty much goes straight through the wall and in to the basement laundry room near the ceiling. Is this the sort of thing thats typically shoved through the wall and just held in place with some caulk? Since we're on the subject, if I decide to change the rest of the vent pipe as well, is it safe to assume that the "semi rigid" ducting is better than the floppy accordion type stuff?
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May 3, 2021 01:35
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