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Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
If you want to geek out on fastener spec, don’t use the home center sites use the manufacturers. For example Grabber: http://grabberman.com/Media/TechnicalData/555.pdf

The next-to-last page of that PDF has an explanation of what’s recommended depending on this-to-that and environmentals.

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Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
For times when I know I’m going to be working with it, I just throw cardboard boxes from the recycling under the pan and plug.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

If you want a wall of tools, IMO the way to go is to put up a sheet of plywood and then screw custom tool holders to it. You can usually make a tool holder pretty easily out of a scrap of wood and 5-10 minutes' work that will be nicer and more secure than those pegboard hooks.

Yeah this is what I’ve always done. New place so don’t have the proper workshop set up yet but love this method.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
Just crunch primes or mine Bitcoin when your room is cold

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
I’ve done exactly what Motronic described (in a rental lol) to get my rear end cleaner working and looking nice since it was a main floor bathroom. I feel for you.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
No. Concrete is superior. Cost or petro-kickbacks are the only reasons not to use concrete. Obviously site needs to be prepped well / contractor needs to be competent, but that applies to any surface.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
My wood deck needs a stain and protection badly. I have a Sherwin-Williams nearby--assume that is better than picking up Thompson's water sealer or whatever.

Can someone check my prep and materials steps?

Clean Prep: lightly pressure wash the wood so that the spots where existing stain is still around is gone, get a consistent "bare wood" look.

Materials:
assume separate stain and protectant is the way to go, kind of like wood stain and varnish?
Do I want waterborne or oil based?
Is the IR-reflective stuff as gimmicky as it sounds?


Anything other advice would be appreciated.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

FogHelmut posted:

Is 8 month old gas still usable? I have about 2 gallons. Is it going to wreck my car if I mix it in with a full fresh tank?

Totally fine with a car made in the last ~30 years.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
What did you use to make those beautiful annotations? :stare:


Yes, more turns of tape around the joint and feathered out is also my vote.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
Check out something like DAP elastopatch

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

SouthShoreSamurai posted:


I've also used the ones where you just layer the water with seeds to catch chipmunks. That also works really well.

I’ve got a bucket trap with the spinny can on it. Are you saying for chipmunks I should be able to forget the can and float seed on top of water in the bucket and they’ll go for a swim?

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
^^ my grandparent's house, built around the same year, had what looks like the same tile :3:

LG Direct Drive front load washer, we've noticed the last few times we've used this thing there's soap foam at the bottom of the opening (and on the door) after wash loads.

The gasket seems.. fine? It doesn't seem impinged on the bottom or otherwise bad. Is this a concern or sign of something?

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

SourKraut posted:

Wasn't sure if it was just drywall or something else; I had this exact same issue last year, with too small of a opening, and I just enlarged it some and put flame cloth as a barrier. Soldered fine without even a small amount of singe! (granted, took my time and was nervous the whole way through)

Have you checked/cleaned the drain pump filter?

Thanks! I hadn't done this lately and it seems to be less foamy after one wash... but there wasn't really much in the filter except a little sand and tiny bit of lint. Will continue to watch it for the next few washes.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
Any tips for pulling the old gasket out of my garage door?



The thing must be original (17 years old) so any attempts to pull it out with vise grips just snap the thing off in chunks and leave the material in the channels. It's 30 degrees out, which isn't great but it's only going to get ridiculously colder the next weeks so I wanted to replace it since my new one came in after 60 days of waiting. The picture shows just the remaining material in chunks but to the right off-camera the full old gasket is intact. Ideally I could pull it out in 1-2 large pieces.

At this point I've tried taking cat claws and flathead screwdrivers in the channel to budge or pull out and haven't gotten anything moving.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
I would just return the LED inserts and buy a new LED fixture like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDHX6EM or Lithonia makes some ultra slim that don't diffuse as well for something like this HVAC room.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
I actually hadn’t considered those screws may be holding in just the center “U” shape. I figured it was my entire door footing. I’ll check this out more especially since it will be a balmy 40 today before it pops to single digit lows later this week

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Well, dammit. I know a local carpenter who does good work; he's installed shelves and required a cabinet for us. Would that be the right kind of either to redo this?

A carpenter would be fine and a good call / might know someone. But these days there are stair specialized contractors. If your carp doesn’t work out I would go to a stair parts distributor site like Coffman stair parts or LJ Smith, find a dealer in your area, and ask them for a contact. It’s a tiny job so good luck.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
They do have excellent acoustics

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

Kwolok posted:

Hi all, my S.O. recently repainted our concrete patio using this paint: https://www.valspar.com/en/products/concrete-floor-coatings/porch-floor-patio-acrylic-enamel-with-heat-relief-technology

Now she wants to seal it but I thought that would be unnecessary since the paint works effectively as a sealer already. Should a coat of sealer be applied after that paint has dried?

Why is she trying to seal it (what does she hope to accomplish)? Concrete likes to breathe.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

alnilam posted:

Give that mirror a taste of its own medicine and glue some drywall to it to cover it up :twisted:

Came here to post this

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

Lester Shy posted:

The "fancy" Midea (third rack, LED lighting, extended dry cycle)

I don't have anything to say between those two brands, but all I could think about after seeing you mention dishwasher LED lighting was this post.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
Thanks for the soft close hinge chat… reminded me that I specced them in my custom laundry room cabinets and just never switched them on.

Can’t wait to get used to this and start slamming my cheap kitchen cabinets shut!

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
Before you remove material, check to see if the hinges on the door frame are pulling away at all. Typically for a heavy door I’d expect top opposite corner to get more door if it starts sagging. Driving longer screw(s) into the frame could help. I have cases of really long wood screws I use for this purpose.

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Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
I have a 2019 LG Dishwasher that just started not fully opening to the floor. It goes down to about 80 degrees then there's resistance. It will go down to its full 90 degree extent if you push down on the door heavy, but springs back to the 80 degree mark without heavy force (e.g. the lower basket doesn't do it).

I thought this was related to recently seeing a piece of gasket on the bottom, but I can't tell it's there.

Anything obvious I should check? I thought maybe a piece of gasket where it tore was preventing opening but I don't see anything.

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