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Interesting solution to support the board from below with those saw benches for planing. Do you have anything special planned for holding boards in place for dovetailing? I've found that clamping one end in the vice, and a holdfast through the apron on the other end to be a bit lacking in the firmness department.
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Dec 14, 2020 15:51
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| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 22:05 |
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I see, I haven't done much dovetailing on wide panels so maybe I overestimated the amount of firmness you need for that. Using your stairs as a clamping jig though is ingenious.
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Dec 15, 2020 01:12
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I noticed you've sawn consitently past the baseline. Does that offer any advantage when removing the waste, or is it easier not worrying about sawing exactly to the baseline as no-one will see the inside of these corners anyway?
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Jan 28, 2021 15:00
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As a matter of fact, I do like watching a guy plane boards. Breaking out the big plane is always nice. This also highlights something that took me a while to really grasp, that there's no need to plane all your material 4-square unless the situation really requires it. Getting a face flat, and an edge square to it is often enough, and just making the other surfaces just look nice enough is a lot less fiddly and effort than making them all parallel. Which is important when you're doing it all by hand.
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Feb 14, 2021 17:16
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Those are some big teeth on that saw, 4-5 tpi? Does the increase in teeth size make a notable difference compared to, say, a 7 tpi rip saw of similar length?
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Mar 8, 2021 01:47
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I'm with Schnitzel here. Pre-finishing the inside parts that'll be mighty awkward to get to once it's assembled is something I've taken to doing myself lately, and I rather like it. Then again, I mostly make boxes where everything except the bottom is in full view, not carcasses where everything will be out of sight.
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May 3, 2021 11:31
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Glue-ups are very stressful yes, to say nothing about such a big one, but it's also the point at which a pile of boards becomes an recognizable piece of furniture. Big milestone passed.
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May 16, 2021 22:24
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I do all my resawing by hand too, but I'd be lying if I said I'm not envious of people with a capable bandsaw from time to time. I'm guessing drawer slips for the bottom?
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Jun 13, 2021 22:42
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Drawer slips are a great solution for holding in bottoms, not just in drawers, but boxes as well. Especially thin walled boxes, or with through dovetails where you can't run the groove without it showing. Which isn't really surprising as a drawer is a specialized box anyway.
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Jun 27, 2021 14:46
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The technique is something I picked up from an old episode of the Woodwright's Shop on moulding planes and I've been using some King waterstones to sharpen my moulding planes, which look kinda teardrop shaped from the front, and which seem to do the job. As long as they're not too far gone that is. I've got one that's rusted all the way through, and to get that back in working order I'd have to take 2-3 mm off, on a tight inside curve, and then match it exactly to the sole. So that one has been semi-permanently retired, because the odds of me pulling that off are pretty much non-existent.
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Jun 28, 2021 11:26
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Unless the wood is too dark to be able to see your lines well, I don't really see the benefit of using masking tape either. If you want to keep boards aligned a clamp or two will work just fine. Edit: my guess would be that you forgot to account for the bottom's groove? Just Winging It fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Jul 20, 2021 |
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Jul 18, 2021 23:09
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There may some mistakes in there, but they're small and don't look like they impact the functionality of the drawer. Looks like a nice and solid drawer to me.
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Aug 7, 2021 21:01
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As someone knee deep in shavings from doing the stock prep for an ATC, I'm feeling that.
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Oct 31, 2021 13:46
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Texturing the panel like that is a lovely touch.
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Jan 9, 2022 16:47
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Looking very good but the relief on the dividers would look silly yeah. Router planes are my go-to for things like hinge recesses. Chisels work for clearing out the bulk of the waste, but for getting it nice and even you can't beat a router plane. Doesn't make it less nerve wracking to start on those recesses, but keeps the risks under control at least. For the screw holes I get them in the right place with a self-centering bit, because as you've found out, it's rather fiddly to do that with just a regular bit. Then drill them out a bit deeper with a same size regular bit using that hole if necessary. Lastly, drive a steel screw in and out before screwing in the brass screws, adding a bit of wax to make them go as smoothly as possible. Keeps dramas with snapped screws to a minimum, because nothing is quite as frustrating as having to extract a small broken screw when a project is almost finished.
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Apr 17, 2022 16:59
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| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 22:05 |
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Great work on completing the project. That's a lovely cabinet, really looks like it belongs there.
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May 30, 2022 22:28
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