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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

Is 19" long a typo? Runners are typically at least six feet long.

If that is what you are looking for, 200 should be fine, kilims are relatively inexpensive and it's not a full size rug.

https://www.dwr.com/rugs-rugs/palani-rug/100065458.html?lang=en_US

this dwr one is 295 for 2.5x6 feet, 395 for 2.5x9 feet

I would start out deciding on color, since as mentioned patterns will usually be geometric with a kilim. There's a bazillion rugs out there so having some basic criteria is very helpful.

If you want to post an image of the space where you want it to go that is also helpful.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Apr 6, 2021

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oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005


Grimey Drawer

actionjackson posted:

Is 19" long a typo? Runners are typically at least six feet long.

If that is what you are looking for, 200 should be fine, kilims are relatively inexpensive and it's not a full size rug.

https://www.dwr.com/rugs-rugs/palani-rug/100065458.html?lang=en_US

this dwr one is 295 for 2.5x6 feet, 395 for 2.5x9 feet

I would start out deciding on color, since as mentioned patterns will usually be geometric with a kilim. There's a bazillion rugs out there so having some basic criteria is very helpful.

If you want to post an image of the space where you want it to go that is also helpful.

19 feet long, I probably could have made that more clear.

It's going to go in this hallway. I'm going to redo some of that trim in stained wood, paint the left wall blue, and leave the rest as is for now. The runner's purpose is to cover up the gawdawful gray flooring, help reduce the echo, and feel nicer underfoot. I left the map in the picture to prove the picture's not in grayscale.

My first thought for colors was a simple tan/sand with textured patterns, but I'm open to suggestions. Right now a heavily patterned rug probably wouldn't fit the place well but I'm changing things left and right so I can work with it.





I think I need to do an effort post and get more pictures of my entire place along with my current plans for it. I have the whole place modeled in CAD so its easy to play with layouts, colors, etc.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

Oh I see I misread 19' as 19"

19 feet is extremely long, is that the distance from the doorway you are standing at to the end of that partition on the left?

I haven't seen a runner longer than nine feet in the usual spots I look so far. But even nine feet should be helpful.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005


Grimey Drawer

19 feet is from the corner farthest away through the doorway I'm standing in. My first thought was to extend the runner under the doorway into the next room but that might be kinda weird.

Two end to end 9' runners might fit just about right.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

I wouldn't do that (it won't work if they have fringes, and even if they don't, you have to somehow keep them looking like one unit when you are walking on them) - how long is it to the end of the partition? If I pretend it's 15', then you can place the runner with a three foot gap on each side. You don't want to have the runner go past the partition, and definitely not reach an adjoining area, to keep visual separation.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005


Grimey Drawer

I remeasured and it's just under 12 ft from the doorway to the end of the partition. I think I measured that 19 ft as the absolute longest it could be before running into things, and then didn't take detailed enough notes.

A single 9 ft should fit nicely.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

I remeasured and it's just under 12 ft from the doorway to the end of the partition. I think I measured that 19 ft as the absolute longest it could be before running into things, and then didn't take detailed enough notes.

A single 9 ft should fit nicely.

ok, see if you like any of these, you can get samples of any of them for a deposit

https://www.roomandboard.com/catalog/rugs/all-rugs?filter=Flat-weave

what is the paint color on the walls, and what is the blue paint color you want to use?

Nosre
Apr 16, 2002




Can you tell what part of this backing material is acidic, and what part isn't?



That blue isn't tape, either, it's paper carefully holding the print in without attaching anything to it directly, so some care was taken. Too bad everyone from like 1900 - 1990 decided to use terrible, acidic materials for framing.

Use proper materials for art if you care about it lasting!

It's in great shape overall though; a nice Jules de Bruycker print from 1942, showing a german soldier and some civilians while they were under occupation in Ghent.







Sweet watermark, too

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.



Can something like that be saved/preserved by switching to proper materials or is it toast at this point?

Nosre
Apr 16, 2002




Oh no, it's fine, I've seen way worse. Acidity not only discolors, but also makes the paper more brittle and crack easy, and in a bad one the whole thing would look like the brown color of the tape.

And yea, you can actually wash paper to reduce the acidity and discoloration. It's an serious and non-reversible step, though; something I'd like to try eventually but haven't yet. For this specific print it would likely be unnecessary.

TheOtherContraGuy
Jul 4, 2007

brave skeleton sacrifice

We bought a house a couple months ago and now want to replace the carpets with hardwood but I have no idea where to start. Does anyone have resources about what I should look out for when purchasing floors?

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

TheOtherContraGuy posted:

We bought a house a couple months ago and now want to replace the carpets with hardwood but I have no idea where to start. Does anyone have resources about what I should look out for when purchasing floors?

I'm pretty sure there are some actual experts in this area around here - when I got rid of my carpet I did laminate that looks like wood (hardwood isn't allowed in my building, something to do with the subfloor), but I have talked to other people that have done it and this is what I know:

humidity - if you live in an area with a lot of humidity changes, sometimes that can cause an issue with hardwood since it will expand and contract. engineered hardwood helps diffuse this issue somewhat.

hardness - you want a certain hardness if you have pets so their claws won't cause any damage

I also know unfinished hardwood is a good option if you want to make it a custom color, as you can stain it, and you can also stain it something different in the future if you want to change.


Also for pricing, I typically saw 3-8/SF for hardwood, depending on type. Any flooring place should be able to give you the exact square footage you want covered, and typically will add 10-15% to that because you need a little extra for waste. Labor costs should be similar to material costs. With mine, it was like 1500 for the flooring, and then with the other materials, like base layer, thresholds, etc. it was 2500, and the labor cost was about the same. I was able to return some extra unused planks to get a few hundred bucks back.



I would probably start by just going to a flooring store, or a home depot, or whatever and get samples of whatever piques your interest. Then place them in various positions around your home, like against the mouldings, partly underneath rugs and furniture, etc. any flooring place should be able to come by and give you a free estimate, where they will use fancy laser things to give you an exact measurement of your space.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Apr 9, 2021

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009


Posting in the springtime


As was said, you can also do faux-wood laminate flooring, which can be perfectly fine. However, we recently got a quote for replacing wall-to-wall carpeting with something else, and I was shocked how little cost it added to go full real-rear end wood over nice laminate. So much of the cost is demo and surface prep that real wood was about 30% more - I had been expecting like, double. We went with wood and I'm super happy with our new red oak floors.

The best people to talk to are flooring contractors. Get several quotes and try to find reviews / talk to them and see if they seem like they know their stuff. Hardwood people usually also do other kinds of flooring, so ask for a quote for wood vs a few different tiers of laminate.

Also re: staining, the person who did my floor (who was a veritable wood flooring geek, it was nice to see someone so excited about his work) said he steers people away from staining because over time it will show a lot more damage than a clearcoat, and is much harder to refinish too. Fine for furniture, not so great for a floor people walk on. Clear-coated oak is gorgeous anyway.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

yeah I mean, there are more expensive laminates, and there are cheaper hardwoods, but on average hardwood is going to be quite a bit more than laminate. My laminate was 1.79/SF. Obviously the bigger the space, the bigger the total price difference will be.

just curious, what was the cost/SF for the laminate and the hardwood you decided on? where the labor costs similar for installing both?

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.




alnilam posted:

Clear-coated oak is gorgeous anyway.

gently caress yeah it is. I just recently finished redoing my living room and the final part was pulling up the Ram Board and getting to see the floors I refinished for the first time in months. I walk through the room just to admire them. Absolutely the best feature in my house.


alnilam
Nov 10, 2009


Posting in the springtime


I don't recall exactly, I just thought it would be like, demo and laminate install: 4k, demo and hardwood install: 10k. Instead it was like, laminate 5k, wood 7k. Two grand is nothing to shake a stick at, but it was a lot more attainable than I thought, so we sprang for wood.

I guess my overall point is, don't assume that hardwood flooring is totally out of reach, as I nearly did; get estimates for both and evaluate what you want and what you want to spend.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

alnilam posted:

I don't recall exactly, I just thought it would be like, demo and laminate install: 4k, demo and hardwood install: 10k. Instead it was like, laminate 5k, wood 7k. Two grand is nothing to shake a stick at, but it was a lot more attainable than I thought, so we sprang for wood.

I guess my overall point is, don't assume that hardwood flooring is totally out of reach, as I nearly did; get estimates for both and evaluate what you want and what you want to spend.

yeah definitely, decide on what kind of color you want first, and then go from there.

Sirotan posted:

gently caress yeah it is. I just recently finished redoing my living room and the final part was pulling up the Ram Board and getting to see the floors I refinished for the first time in months. I walk through the room just to admire them. Absolutely the best feature in my house.




I'm jealous of your smooth ceiling. I like the upper moulding since you don't have soffits.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




I usually don't like white trim, but it works really well there.

Ebola Dog
Apr 3, 2011

Dinosaurs are directly related to turtles!


You can also get engineered wood flooring which has a layer of real wood on top as opposed to laminate which has a print out wood pattern. (I always see laminate and engineered listed as different in the UK at least).

Engineered flooring looks like solid wood but can be easier to install and is less thick than solid wood.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012



Grimey Drawer

I'll dig into wood and wood like flooring a bit.

Laminate Flooring

$0.50 - $3.00 sq/ft



Thicknesses ranging from 7mm to 12mm. Most are click lock, the cheaper stuff will possibly click once and then the edge is kind of screwed. So if you realize you didn't get it just right you're kind of screwed. The biggest benefit is cheap. But if you drop a coffee cup it will chip and you'll see white backer, the core, or a nasty chip. Surprisingly durable to abrasion. Does not like water. Seams will swell and it'll go to poo poo. Laminate is not a bad floor, but requires proper prep and especially leveling. If the floor is not level you are relying on those lovely click-lock joints and when those flex apart you get a lovely floor. Can be installed after removing another floor without (usually) redoing the trim or cutting doors.

Engineered Hardwood

$2.00 to $10.00 sq/ft



Thicknesses from 3/8" to 3/4". Click lock, adhesive, or nail down. Even the cheap engineered hardwood is nicer than the mid grade laminate. It's basically plywood with a veneer of real wood. Price not only dictates the wood but how much real wood there is. It will age like actual wood. Dropping a coffee cup will result in a dent. Does better with water than Laminate and some grades call it out as "below grade". I had this in my entry way for about 10 years and never saw any issues with water damage or swelling. Also requires good prep, leveling etc. The thinner grades can be installed without removing trim or cutting doors.

Bamboo

$2.00 to $7.00 sq/ft



Thicknesses from 3/8" to 3/4". Click, adhesive, nail down. It looks like bamboo but with a lot of potential color variations. But it looks like bamboo. It's not popular in my area so I don't have any experience with how it ages.

Luxury Vinyl Plank

$1.00 to $6.00 sq/ft



Thicknesses from 5mm to 9mm. Click lock. Avoid "peel and stick" like the plague. Someone realized you can make a more durable "laminate" by poo poo canning the interior wood and using vinyl. It'll look like the above laminate, last about as long, handle moisture better, and last longer. My expectation (and my cousin who installs professionally) is this will totally replace traditional laminate. There's nothing that wood core laminate does that this doesn't do better. It installs the same, can go below grade, and probably will handle said coffee cup better. Don't drag heavy things on it, it can tear. Look for vinyl plank that when held by one end does not droop! Droopy flooring is lovely flooring, look for something with a solid core. Where this "luxury" product will go bad is people will not prep it properly so it will get a bad reputation.

Hardwood

$3.00 to $$$$ sq/ft



Typical thickness is 3/4". Normally nailed in with a special nailing gun. Also can be glued but nailing is not that bad. Can be unfinished all the way to totally finished. Finishing it can be done yourself. It is hard. The HomeDepot sander sucks. Getting the finish smooth and bubble free is hard. Can be stained. Almost always coated with a polyurethane product. Water poly goes on the quickest and yellows the wood less (it may still happen depeding on the type of wood) while oil based urethanes take longer to dry, but have more solids and more protection. Wood floors will age the best. Won't like moisture. Prep is even more essential, including things like allowing for seasonal swelling. You can also get reclaimed flooring that looks amazing but that's really regional.

JANKA!



The Janka chart is how hard a wood is. It's a decent starting point but not the end all. There are "soft" birch floors that are in bedrooms and look amazing after 150 years. My father in law liked the look of polyurethaned OSB and used that for 15 years. So it's not an example of how tough your floor will be, but how deep of a ding that dropped coffee cup will be.

Wood Grain Tile

$5.00 to $10 sq/ft



If you like wood, but want it in your bathroom, you can get a wood grain tile. All of the poo poo you need to do for wood still has to happen, but now you need to do all the tile poo poo. Schluter underlayment, proper mortar, grout, etc. And you need to prep it all too. I did this in my bathroom and was really happy with the look. Be sure to follow the Schluter documents 100% including using the seam tape and such. A dropped coffee cup will either break, do nothing, or chip the tile.

PREP

You should spend as much time on prep as you do laying the actual floor. This includes removing the old floor, tack strips, and bad wood. It also includes finding loose pieces of the underflooring and driving in screws around it. You will also need a quality floor leveler product. In my new house the previous owners did not level the floor and now two years later it's really apparent. All of these things take time and those "install a new floor on a Saturday!" HomeDepot fliers don't tell you about the 2 days of prep that are needed. A floating floor will conform to a non-flat floor over time or it will have "hollows". You want a solid connection even if it's floating otherwise it feels cheap and wont last as long.

Check out a YouTube channel called "Home RenoVision DIY" for some really good details in how to do this stuff right - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnorhjQR4zJkT7AVNhu395Q

Yooper fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Apr 10, 2021

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003



My 200+ year old pine floors feel attacked by that chart. (Good god are they soft)

TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

I'M JUST HERE TO KISS TITTIESS AND WIN FOOTBALL GAMES!
(AND GET EVERYBODY FIRED)


Are any of those surfaces safe to clean via wet mop, and/or Murphy's Oil Soap?

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009


Posting in the springtime


TITTIEKISSER69 posted:

Are any of those surfaces safe to clean via wet mop, and/or Murphy's Oil Soap?

You can definitely mop both laminate and hardwood IME, you just want to use a damp / very well-squeezed mop to avoid pools of water.

Hardwood cleans best with just water with a splash of vinegar IME. My hardwood floor guy, who was a huge wood geek, says murphy's is BS, for floors at least.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020


Yooper posted:

Laminate Flooring
Does not like water. Seams will swell and it'll go to poo poo..

Tell that to my landlord that had the genius idea to put laminate wood over what I'm pretty sure was originally tile in the bathroom. No points for guessing where the mistake came in.
On that note, so that I can continue weighing the landlord competition, which is the bigger sin: laminate flooring in a bathroom or sharp-edged stick-on vinyl tile in a kitchen over perfectly good linoleum, both poorly fitted? They're both bad but my personal experience colors the view.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

Yooper posted:

I'll dig into wood and wood like flooring a bit.

Laminate Flooring

$0.50 - $3.00 sq/ft



Thicknesses ranging from 7mm to 12mm. Most are click lock, the cheaper stuff will possibly click once and then the edge is kind of screwed. So if you realize you didn't get it just right you're kind of screwed. The biggest benefit is cheap. But if you drop a coffee cup it will chip and you'll see white backer, the core, or a nasty chip. Surprisingly durable to abrasion. Does not like water. Seams will swell and it'll go to poo poo. Laminate is not a bad floor, but requires proper prep and especially leveling. If the floor is not level you are relying on those lovely click-lock joints and when those flex apart you get a lovely floor. Can be installed after removing another floor without (usually) redoing the trim or cutting doors.



I just want to clarify something, there are laminates that have waterproofing now, which is what I got (for mine it's called AquaSeal).

https://www.llflooring.com/p/aquaseal-12mm-golden-gate-oak-laminate-flooring-10046497.html

My floor is also pretty thick (12mm) which I found is nice having a dog just for noise reduction. I have yet to notice any sort of abrasion due to her nails.

I haven't had any issues with the waterproof part - if my dog has an accident that I don't discover right away, there's no issue with cleaning it up, and also I can wet mop the floor without any issues, which is nice (I've been using a swiffer wet jet, but will probably get one of those Bona spray mops soon)

Now despite the waterproof part, I would definitely not put it in an area with constant moisture, like a kitchen or bathroom!

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Apr 10, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

Yooper posted:


Luxury Vinyl Plank

$1.00 to $6.00 sq/ft



Thicknesses from 5mm to 9mm. Click lock. Avoid "peel and stick" like the plague. Someone realized you can make a more durable "laminate" by poo poo canning the interior wood and using vinyl. It'll look like the above laminate, last about as long, handle moisture better, and last longer. My expectation (and my cousin who installs professionally) is this will totally replace traditional laminate. There's nothing that wood core laminate does that this doesn't do better. It installs the same, can go below grade, and probably will handle said coffee cup better. Don't drag heavy things on it, it can tear. Look for vinyl plank that when held by one end does not droop! Droopy flooring is lovely flooring, look for something with a solid core. Where this "luxury" product will go bad is people will not prep it properly so it will get a bad reputation.

For luxury vinyl plank, there is one major issue that can come up, which is damage from direct sunlight exposure. I have read some people will install certain types of window treatments just to avoid this

https://cleanfax.com/hard-floor-care/luxury-vinyl-lvt-kryptonite/ (check out the pics)

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005


Grimey Drawer

actionjackson posted:

ok, see if you like any of these, you can get samples of any of them for a deposit

https://www.roomandboard.com/catalog/rugs/all-rugs?filter=Flat-weave

what is the paint color on the walls, and what is the blue paint color you want to use?

Unfortunately I'm not sure exactly what shade of white the walls are. The place was remodeled before I moved in and I don't have complete records of the work done. It's very close to true white. Whoever set the place up before me set all the LEDs to 5000K and between that and white on every surface I felt like I was in an asylum.

edit: I hunted around in the garage and found a can of SW Greek Villa. The Sherwin Williams color preview tool makes it look more off-white than what I see on the walls, but its the closest I can find.


The blues I'm thinking about are SW Adrift or more likely SW Honest Blue


Of the options in your link my boring pick is: https://www.roomandboard.com/catalog/rugs/all-rugs/avilia-rugs

There are a couple options there that also look interesting but don't have the 2'6" x 9' option.

oXDemosthenesXo fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Apr 10, 2021

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012



Grimey Drawer

actionjackson posted:

I just want to clarify something, there are laminates that have waterproofing now, which is what I got (for mine it's called AquaSeal).

https://www.llflooring.com/p/aquaseal-12mm-golden-gate-oak-laminate-flooring-10046497.html

My floor is also pretty thick (12mm) which I found is nice having a dog just for noise reduction. I have yet to notice any sort of abrasion due to her nails.

I haven't had any issues with the waterproof part - if my dog has an accident that I don't discover right away, there's no issue with cleaning it up, and also I can wet mop the floor without any issues, which is nice (I've been using a swiffer wet jet, but will probably get one of those Bona spray mops soon)

Now despite the waterproof part, I would definitely not put it in an area with constant moisture, like a kitchen or bathroom!

It is surprisingly resistant to abrasion, my local flooring store lets you take a belt sander to it for a few seconds. Very interesting in regards to the LVP, thermal stability can be a bitch. It's one reason I like the engineered hardwood, you get two directions of strand orientation to help with this.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

Yooper posted:

It is surprisingly resistant to abrasion, my local flooring store lets you take a belt sander to it for a few seconds. Very interesting in regards to the LVP, thermal stability can be a bitch. It's one reason I like the engineered hardwood, you get two directions of strand orientation to help with this.

I never looked into engineered hardwood at the time, but I assume that it is less susceptible to humidity issues than regular hardwood. My main concern would be the same though, basically if I leave home, dog pees on floor, I come back several hours later - does it just soak in permanently?

Though I did notice that at the place I want, there is an "aquaseal" engineered hardwood as well. However it's only on 3/74 varieties.

In general, most of the engineered stuff would have broken the bank for me anyway. It would have added at least 3k to the total cost.

Also since you clearly know flooring pretty well, any comments on Bona mops? They seem to be pretty well reviewed for cleaning hard floors.

https://us.bona.com/products/Bona--Premium-Spray-Mop-for-Stone--Tile----Laminate-Floors.html

I've been trying to find something that scrubs enough to actually get out the little drool puddles that my dog leaves all over the floor (you can only see them when light shines on them).

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Apr 10, 2021

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012



Grimey Drawer

actionjackson posted:

I never looked into engineered hardwood at the time, but I assume that it is less susceptible to humidity issues than regular hardwood. My main concern would be the same though, basically if I leave home, dog pees on floor, I come back several hours later - does it just soak in permanently?

Though I did notice that at the place I want, there is an "aquaseal" engineered hardwood as well. However it's only on 3/74 varieties.

In general, most of the engineered stuff would have broken the bank for me anyway. It would have added at least 3k to the total cost.

Also since you clearly know flooring pretty well, any comments on Bona mops? They seem to be pretty well reviewed for cleaning hard floors.

https://us.bona.com/products/Bona--Premium-Spray-Mop-for-Stone--Tile----Laminate-Floors.html

I've been trying to find something that scrubs enough to actually get out the little drool puddles that my dog leaves all over the floor (you can only see them when light shines on them).

My engineered hardwood was in an entryway that saw melting snow and heavy foot traffic for years and never warped or showed any evidence of water damage. That said if it had seeped around the trim then it could have caused swelling as the base plywood could have soaked it up. But even hardwood flooring, sealed with a urethane, should be fairly well impervious to moisture. I'm not familiar with the Bona but we had a similar thing from our local hardware store. It's OK, I ended up settling on a Swiffer wet because it was easy. Unless you're mopping like it's boot camp then I think you'll be fine. I figure people have done terrible things to floors over the last century and old floors always look awesome.

Our next floor will be either a hickory hardwood or engineered hardwood with hickory. Mainly because I don't want to worry about any yellowing and hickory seems to stay pretty true to color.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

I found swiffers don't work well with dog hair and such that inevitably gathers in the corners. It ends up just pushing it around. I also found that if I tried to press hard enough to really get out those spots, the pad would often come loose.

For hardwood and moisture, I'm really just wondering about dog urine, since you also have the odor issue. It does sound like it can be quite annoying if not dealt with right away. Sealing helps with this to some degree I think (sealing a floor sounds kind of annoying).

My Shark Waifuu
Dec 9, 2012



Yooper posted:

Floor stuff

Thanks for this informative post, quoting it so I can find it again when we get around to replacing the chipped laminate flooring in our new house. Engineered wood seems like the way to go!

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.


Next time I am replacing floors (laminate) I am gonna go for pine boards, probably with wax-oil with a white-ish tint to brighten them a little. In the kitchen we have tile which is good, though goddamn it's killed a lot of glass ware.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020


There might be a better thread for this, but:
Need to get a bookcase so I can get my books out of the moving box on the floor (and make sure none are damaged/will be damaged while I'm at it). I'm in the unfortunate place of carpeted floors without being able to drill in a bracket to steady it, and needing a taller-than-standard shelf size to fit some RPG books (a4 or larger). I'd normally just go through our platform to investigate, but everything under $500 is the cheap and lovely "open-side box with no feet" style. Any recommendations for quality construction at least? Don't exactly have much interior decor to coordinate with besides black faux-wood desk and the lovely white trim on the walls, so that's not a high concern on the list.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012



Grimey Drawer

SkyeAuroline posted:

There might be a better thread for this, but:
Need to get a bookcase so I can get my books out of the moving box on the floor (and make sure none are damaged/will be damaged while I'm at it). I'm in the unfortunate place of carpeted floors without being able to drill in a bracket to steady it, and needing a taller-than-standard shelf size to fit some RPG books (a4 or larger). I'd normally just go through our platform to investigate, but everything under $500 is the cheap and lovely "open-side box with no feet" style. Any recommendations for quality construction at least? Don't exactly have much interior decor to coordinate with besides black faux-wood desk and the lovely white trim on the walls, so that's not a high concern on the list.

So you can't anchor it to the wall? The last bookshelf I hung I used a french cleat to keep it away from the floor trim. It was a shallow shelf and almost ceiling to floor.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020


Yooper posted:

So you can't anchor it to the wall? The last bookshelf I hung I used a french cleat to keep it away from the floor trim. It was a shallow shelf and almost ceiling to floor.

Might be able to under the same exemption as picture frames/etc but hoping for something stable enough on its own to not need that. Probably don't actually need a super tall one as long as the individual shelf space is enough for the tall books; my old one was a 60" 5-shelf pine box of the shoddiest imaginable craftsmanship and I still only used 3 of the 5 shelves.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

SkyeAuroline posted:

There might be a better thread for this, but:
Need to get a bookcase so I can get my books out of the moving box on the floor (and make sure none are damaged/will be damaged while I'm at it). I'm in the unfortunate place of carpeted floors without being able to drill in a bracket to steady it, and needing a taller-than-standard shelf size to fit some RPG books (a4 or larger). I'd normally just go through our platform to investigate, but everything under $500 is the cheap and lovely "open-side box with no feet" style. Any recommendations for quality construction at least? Don't exactly have much interior decor to coordinate with besides black faux-wood desk and the lovely white trim on the walls, so that's not a high concern on the list.

for something that is stable enough that it doesn't need anchoring, you could try this, it's one of blu dot's first ever designs (there's also an eight box version)

https://www.bludot.com/chicago-3-box.html

this blu dot thing is also cool (there's also a four shelf version)

https://hivemodern.com/pages/product12751/happy-day-shelving-3-shelf-unit-blu-dot

this isn't a typical bookcase, but is affordable and pretty cool looking - I've seen it in-store. You can add and remove shelves as needed

https://www.dwr.com/storage-shelving-bookcases/story-bookcase/2197172.html?lang=en_US

this ladder shelving is a cool idea if you want an MCM look

https://www.dwr.com/storage-shelving-systems/folk-ladder-shelving/2196211.html?lang=en_US

there's this thing

https://www.dwr.com/storage-shelving-systems/compile-shelving-system/2527903.html?lang=en_US

comedy option

https://hivemodern.com/pages/product11496/bookshelf-shiro-kuramata-cappellini

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012



Grimey Drawer


That Hive Modern Happy Day Shelf is sexy and I want it in my house.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020


Yooper posted:

That Hive Modern Happy Day Shelf is sexy and I want it in my house.

It is surprisingly good looking for something by all rights I should hate the look of.
Rest of them, appreciate the suggestions. Thanks. Going to have to do some evaluating... for once y'all make the vendors I work with look cheap. But, if it stays together 20+ years, pays off over time vs some cheap Ikea poo poo I end up replacing...

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

your living room looks like shit

There was other stuff I was going to suggest but based on price I didn't :p

btw I should have linked directly to that blu dot product, because there's actually six color combos

https://www.bludot.com/happy-day-shelving-3-shelf.html



actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Apr 12, 2021

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