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I think you censored out some Christmas cards or family portraits but I like the idea of a white wall covered with little black cubes.
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Feb 28, 2022 03:54
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peanut posted:I think you censored out some Christmas cards or family portraits but I like the idea of a white wall covered with little black cubes. i don't appreciate you making fun of my black cube collection 
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Feb 28, 2022 12:58
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Way to recognize sincerity, little mister no-recognize sincerity!!!!
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Feb 28, 2022 13:23
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DaveSauce posted:do we try to match the transom window trim?
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Feb 28, 2022 14:24
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DaveSauce posted:We're trying to figure out how to add shelves to this wall with a fireplace and transom window: You can't go wrong with fireplace + transoms + bookshelves for your living room, but your particular setup adds a couple challenges to pulling it off in an ideal manner. Main issue is that you have no chimney breast, and the mantlepiece looks like it has little prominence from the wall. Because of this, you risk the fireplace looking/feeling recessed when it should be your visual anchor for the room. The presence of a chimney breast will conveniently create recessed alcoves between the breast and walls for bookcases/other built-ins, but since there is no chimney breast here and the mantlepiece is not very prominent, your shelving will protrude out more than the fireplace. To mitigate the look of a recessed fireplace, I'd leave a lot of space between the fireplace and the start of the shelves - have the shelves start in the corner and end maybe like 18" from the mantlepiece. Perhaps consider having the ends of the shelves curved to soften the visual (also less of a head-bonking hazard than square corners). Also, I wouldn't have the shelves any deeper than 8". And I'd have them white with traditional beaded/routed edges to match existing trim. And cute wooden brackets. The other smaller issue is placement of light switches and outlets. Not sure what you can do about these other than space/position the shelves to avoid interfering with them. Or just move them and patch the drywall. My parents once moved some sconce lighting to fit a gigantic mirror and it wasn't a terribly big deal. Long term, if you replace the mantlepiece and also want to keep the generally traditional vibe I'd go for a more prominent one so it looks more substantial and less like it was adhered to the wall. This will also let you integrate more substantial shelving more easily. Or if you want to go more modern, make it totally flush and use some big-rear end slab of snazzy stone as a surround for a big visual statement (that will more than make up for lack of prominence) and do more spaced-out modern shelving.
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Feb 28, 2022 20:26
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Queen Victorian posted:placement of light switches Those are in the strangest spots, ie not next to a door or walkway, what do they do? Perhaps one controls a fan in the fireplace?
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Feb 28, 2022 20:58
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falz posted:Those are in the strangest spots, ie not next to a door or walkway, what do they do? Perhaps one controls a fan in the fireplace? Gas logs, so one side is the gas and the other side is the blower. Can never remember which is which... only use it like 3x/year at most. And with that, not too terribly concerned about working around them. Certainly not concerned enough to relocate them. Shouldn't be too difficult, but more effort than I'd like for something we rarely use. spf3million posted:words Queen Victorian posted:words Really sounds like I have a lot to think about... glad I asked, visual design/etc. sort of stuff in this setting is absolutely not my forte. Might post some close-ups of the mantle/trim later tonight, and then maybe mock something up in CAD if I have time. Or worst case mark something up on a picture and see if it makes sense. If I'm buying off-the-shelf boards and trim pieces to match existing stuff, I'm a lot more inclined to DIY something. I don't know gently caress-all about woodworking outside of high school shop class, but I'm sure I could figure out something relatively simple. Dunno about the brackets, but a quick google shows tons of results, so that should be easy enough. Definitely going to have to play around with spacing/size, though. But at least this all confirms my suspicion that there's something... odd about the whole setup that requires a bit more thought put in to it. Kept puzzling over it myself and could never really come up with a good solution. Asked in one of the other home threads a bit ago and didn't get too far beyond "probably can't do built-ins." For something so simple, it's challenging to make it not ugly. But there's huge utility to be had here, so that's why I keep coming back to it. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Feb 28, 2022 |
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Feb 28, 2022 21:36
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yeah i would just match the window trim too, do you know what paint was used on the wall?
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Mar 8, 2022 20:25
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actionjackson posted:yeah i would just match the window trim too, do you know what paint was used on the wall? Cheapest contractor beige they could find, I'm sure... 22 year old house and I'm 99% sure this is the original paint. Near as we can tell, PO only ever painted the small half bath and 1 accent wall in their kids bedroom... and we only did the 2 kids bedrooms ourselves, so we have a long way to go as well. So that is to say, painting the interior is on our to-do list, but a low priority. Gotta fix nail pops, patch holes, etc. etc. And then figure out colors, as well... so yeah. Also, working on a model... the fireplace had several pieces that I didn't have modeled, so I had to create those, and then measure everything... I have a decent 3D model of the house going, but a lot of the details like this are missing. Might be able to get the fireplace built tonight, if I find time... we'll see.
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Mar 8, 2022 21:10
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well using the window trim should match with whatever paint you decide on (this is why white is great), otherwise I would repaint before deciding on shelf color
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Mar 8, 2022 21:18
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actionjackson posted:well using the window trim should match with whatever paint you decide on (this is why white is great), otherwise I would repaint before deciding on shelf color Ah, gotcha. I was assuming we'd stick with white for now and repaint later if we have to. I feel like if we went another direction we'd have to paint the fireplace trim and window trim to match... I guess I don't know if that's strictly necessary, but I'm perfectly OK with kicking that can down the road.
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Mar 8, 2022 21:30
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depending on how much shelving you want, a bookcase would also work well on either side. if you wanted a lot of shelving/storage, you could even have the same one on both sides. of course it depends on if you use need constant access to those light switches
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Mar 10, 2022 15:19
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We have a wall with an open back shelf against it and the lightswitch is just the right height that we can reach through the shelf to use it.
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Mar 12, 2022 10:39
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We considered bookshelves, and the type we were looking at were either A-frame or leaning style, so they'd be open and allow access to the switches. But we're shying away because we want to keep the floor open. Part of the issue is that if you look to the right, there's an air return there... we need access to change the filter, so it really puts a damper on things. The other issue is that it's not a huge room to begin with, so if we want to follow through with our idea to put chairs in those corners, then a bookshelf extending to the floor is a no-go. That's where shelves come in... we can start them high enough where it's not interfering with the floor at all.
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Mar 12, 2022 19:27
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I'm realizing why modernist stuff always uses whites, off-whites, grays and neutrals for walls I tried a grayish blue in my bedroom, and it just sucks all the attention away from everything else. you just walk in and it's like WOW A WALL. and it's on the darker side, LRV of 37. when daylight hits it the blue really comes out too - if it's overcast it's not as noticeable I will have to go back and harness the power of gray, but with a bit of a blue undertone DaveSauce posted:
you could also consider ladder shelving, which does not attach to the wall you can often get them in modular units, for example this one has three modules  actionjackson fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Mar 12, 2022 |
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Mar 12, 2022 19:55
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Yeah these are kind of what we were looking at: https://www.article.com/product/15104/lignum-walnut-shelving-unit https://www.article.com/product/17995/caliper-white-walnut-shelf Love the look, but again, taking up more floor space is not what we want here. If it helps, on the left side is where we put up our christmas tree. It's the most logical place with our current setup, and we like it. So shelves that extend all the way to the floor would push the tree out that much more, which cramps everything even more. That said, the above 2 options may work quite well for the wall to the right of everything. Currently has a cheapo Target bookshelf:  More or less the current layout, sans toys/etc. Should be able to get the theoretical shelves modeled in soon, all the components are there just need to get some other crap set up so I can make things look close enough. Yes the current couch is an ugly-rear end forest green La-Z-boy POS... got it cheap off craigslist over 10 years ago and will absolutely ditch it once we get around to buying new furniture. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Mar 12, 2022 |
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Mar 12, 2022 20:29
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OK I have a question please redirect me if there is a better thread. Our house does not have much kitchen storage. And currently a pantry area near the kitchen is being used as a poor mud room. Also our a garage is on left side of our house and back entrance on right side of house. So we thought to solve these problems we could turn this screened in porch into a mud room. Free up pantry space for kitchen and easier entrance near detached garage. We would need to make an entrance from drive way to the screened in porch, enclose and insulate the screened in porch and I think also incorporate the hvac system somehow. Any other thoughts from people with way more experience with this than us? We have not gotten quotes or design ideas. Just trying to even figure out if this is reasonable.  
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Mar 13, 2022 03:29
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Is the porch literally just screened-in or does it have all glass windows that close to keep out rain and snow? If the latter, I think it would be totally fine to convert it to a mudroom without insulating it or adding HVAC. That's extremely common where I grew up. I think it would also be way cheaper if the job is just adding a door and a walkway.
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Mar 13, 2022 03:50
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i like nice words
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Anne Whateley posted:Is the porch literally just screened-in or does it have all glass windows that close to keep out rain and snow? If the latter, I think it would be totally fine to convert it to a mudroom without insulating it or adding HVAC. That's extremely common where I grew up. I think it would also be way cheaper if the job is just adding a door and a walkway. It's only screened in. No glass windows or anything. Yeah it might be doable to not add formal connection to heat. Don't really need ac because not worried about it being too hot. But in winter it would be nice to have a place to put on and off coats and boots without tracking through the house etc. But it wouldn't need to be 70 degrees in there. Of course if it was 40 that'd be a bummer potentially haha.
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Mar 13, 2022 04:12
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We've got "raw" (IE light but not whitened) oak coloured floor and have just ordered a similar coloured table. Most of the photos I've seen with similar combinations online then have fabric or white chairs, which looks great, e.g. However we have some existing wooden chairs which are the same sort of wood as the table. The chairs aren't great quality but too new to get rid of yet - any ideas for breaking up the wood? Ideas so far are white seat cushions (I like this one) or a table runner (not so sure). Like in the photo above it's right by some big windows with white walls.
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Mar 13, 2022 08:32
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I like cushions, especially if you can find ones that pair with something else in the room
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Mar 13, 2022 15:35
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falz posted:I can't find it right now but ikea has a short and sweet video on where to put poo poo in a kitchen. I followed it when I redid mine a year ago and it's a great idea. Yeah it’s a good strategy. I’m also hype on “appliance garages”, to hide all the appliances when not in use.
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Mar 14, 2022 17:31
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I think I need more photos of the room up figure out your options. Whoa. Anybody ITT have experience with these water vapor fireplace things?
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Mar 14, 2022 17:31
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Ornery and Hornery posted:Yeah it’s a good strategy. I was too until I put it in place and experienced reality. Mine was over a small area of counter top, it opened from bottom to top (hinges on the ceiling). That made it so I literally couldn't see anything in there. I blame those who helped design my kitchen so I didn't use it. I instead have toaster / egg cooker / type of appliance in the drawer right under it and will take it out as needed, put back right away. I hate hate hate tons of permanent appliances on counters, the only thing I have is a coffee maker a it's used daily.
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Mar 14, 2022 20:25
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When I built my kitchen I made one: It works great but I recognize oftentimes space does not permit something like this. There’s another smaller one for the coffee maker and such back in one corner of the counter, but the coffee maker gets so much use I only use that when we have company over.
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Mar 14, 2022 23:42
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Phil Moscowitz posted:When I built my kitchen I made one: I like this a lot. I just finished moving my washer and dryer from the kitchen to the 2nd story and freed up an entire closet/pantry. Half of our space might end up looking something a lot like this.
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Mar 15, 2022 00:57
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So we have a dining room and are looking for a nice formal dining set. A couple of years ago we inherited this bad boy: It is enormous and heavy and ours is a much lighter yellow color. The color on this example is more or less the color of our floor. We also inherited a side table and shelf set that have the same bamboo motif but are painted a bright white with yellow accents. I am at a complete loss for what kind of dining set would complement these pieces. Any suggestions? I can post pics of the actual things once I get home.
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Mar 17, 2022 21:53
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do any of you have a single pendant over a round table? I've often read you want a diameter 1/2 to 2/3 the size of the table diameter, but that seems kind of ridiculous. the semi pendant from gubi has a 11.8" or 18.5" version, and my table is 31.5". I think the sweet spot is probably around 15", but 18.5" seems absurd. you are very close to the recommended limit of 6" on each side. I'm going to guess that this image is the 18.5" version over a 30" table, and to me the light looks way too dominant. Also reaching over would be a bit weird if you were standing.
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Mar 19, 2022 00:19
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actionjackson posted:do any of you have a single pendant over a round table? I've often read you want a diameter 1/2 to 2/3 the size of the table diameter, but that seems kind of ridiculous. the semi pendant from gubi has a 11.8" or 18.5" version, and my table is 31.5". I think the sweet spot is probably around 15", but 18.5" seems absurd. you are very close to the recommended limit of 6" on each side. I have one, though it’s over an oval tulip table. The lamp is 25” and the table is 35” wide (60” long). Also for reference ceilings are 11 feet, so that might affect the general look of things and how high the pendant can be (the bottom of it is about 7 feet from the floor). It looks pretty good. 
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Mar 19, 2022 20:31
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ok, yeah that's really high (also that table seems too small for four chairs, but maybe i'm perceiving it wrong), the general guidelines I've read say it should be about 28-36" above the table, and you want the table to be at least 6" wider than the fixture on all sides, so you don't hit your head on it or anything. I think the 28-36 guideline is so you are never looking into the light source. while I really like the lamp pictured (semi pendant from gubi), I'm not sure it's right for what I want. My main purpose is light for jigsaw puzzles when it's dark out, or overcast, but you really need a daylight (5000K) light for that because you want to differentiate between small differences, just like with most task lighting. If I got the semi, I would probably have to buy two bulbs, one that is 5000K, and one that is 2700K and just switch them out as needed. But I really don't have a need for warm lighting over that space. I might be better off getting a 5000K flexible clamp light which I can move or store when not in use. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Mar 19, 2022 |
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Mar 19, 2022 22:51
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in this example, the fixture is only ~1/3 of the table width, but it still looks fine to me
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Mar 19, 2022 22:54
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Here’s the table from the long side. 4 chairs works, especially if you put them in a square. But the rug is too small (it’s temporary). The light could be a bit lower, but it would look odd at 28-36”. 28 would be at my chin and 36 basically eye level. Your example really seems low to me. Definitely would be too low for a pendant like this one, it would take up too much space. E. “Guidelines” I’m seeing are 30-36 inches for 8 inch ceilings, with an additional 3” in height per foot above 8 feet. Phil Moscowitz fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Mar 19, 2022 |
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Mar 19, 2022 23:39
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well again, the idea is to light the table without being able to see the bulb itself - and if there's enough space (6"+) around the lamp, you can have it at that height without contacting it. you would definitely see the bulb if you went much higher with the two pendants I showed. with yours it might not be as noticeable because the distance from the bulb to the bottom of the shade is much higher. if you look up at the light while seated, can you see the bulb at all?
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Mar 20, 2022 00:02
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Barely, there are three bulbs and one is partially visible. It could come down 3-6 inches for sure.
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Mar 20, 2022 00:07
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Phil Moscowitz posted:Barely, there are three bulbs and one is partially visible. It could come down 3-6 inches for sure. yeah, I mean that's the biggest thing, I think. most pendants don't have a covering that is nearly that high (and in fact with the semi, the bulb is basically at level with the bottom), so you need to have it lower to avoid any direct line of sight to the bulb. what size is the saarinen (or knockoff version) table?
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Mar 20, 2022 00:26
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60x35, it’s 29” tall. I have some chain, I’m going to drop it about a foot and see how it looks (I’ll be better). As far as the diameter, I think it’s fine as far as size. But I think the oval shape changes things because you’re further from the edge of the lamp.
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Mar 20, 2022 00:53
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oh right, i suppose with my avatar I should have remember they are oval in the larger sizes, but yeah the guidelines I mentioned are for round or square mainly, oval would be closest to rectangular I suppose, where sometimes you will see multiple small pendants, but that really only works for that shape
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Mar 20, 2022 04:03
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I bought an oversized paper globe lantern, but holding it I think you need high ceilings to pull it off, or like, a tatami mat/futon kind of bedroom setup or something like that. I think I will return it. It's really hard getting a good lighting setup, there's so many options, most of which are poo poo, and interior design inspiration images have a tendency to crop ceiling lights out.
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Mar 20, 2022 04:29
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thotsky posted:I bought an oversized paper globe lantern, but holding it I think you need high ceilings to pull it off, or like, a tatami mat/futon kind of bedroom setup or something like that. I think I will return it. If you have a good lighting store in your area they can help (some may even have a lighting consultant that you can pay to come to your home), or hire an interior designer. Even just a 1-2 hour consultation would typically be enough. It is really tough on your own!
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Mar 20, 2022 15:19
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Yeah, there's services like that here, but now I am invested. I think it will turn out okay. I am learning a lot, which is nice, it is just sort of exhausting.
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Mar 22, 2022 02:35
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