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Anonymous Zebra
Oct 21, 2005
Blending in like it ain't no thang
Hello all, Queen Victorian pointed me to this thread based on a post I made in the home ownership thread. I've quoted the post below.

Anonymous Zebra posted:

Hey guys, I have somewhat of an interior design question. Please let me know if there would be a better place to ask this. My wife and I have been thinking about renovating our kitchen, and we are in the "planning & budgeting" phase (a.k.a. we are sitting pretty waiting to see if the huge jump in contractor costs starts to drop off at some point). There is a home that showed up on Zillow that my wife looked at the photos of and mentioned that she really loves the kitchen aesthetic**. In the normal times I'd go to an open house so I could actually look closely at the materials and appliances they used to try to figure out what it all is, but we are unable to gain access to the home and I only have the pictures from Zillow to work with.

The pictures are below. I'm a complete novice when it comes to knowing the names of different materials or designs, so I'm not sure what to start looking up to figure out what to ask a potential contractor for when it comes time to renovate the kitchen. This bit me in the rear end awhile back when we had our master bath renovated since that was an emergency situation and we didn't have time to really sit and think about what we wanted. What kind of tile is that on the floor (and the backsplash?). What kind of material is that counter? What do I call that sink? What brand or design are those appliances? I know that this place was renovated recently, so that stuff can't be that old. I also love those doors, but I'm pretty sure I could just point to a picture and tell someone "those" and they'd be able to figure out what I wanted.














**My wife actually spent that last week trying to convince me to just buy this house since it has more than just a kitchen that she's in love with, and we could probably afford it, but talking to the realtors today gave me the most insane story, which I'll post shortly in the house buying thread. The summary is that this house cannot be purchased because the housing market is not even following any logic anymore in Riverside.


She seemed to have some criticism of the kitchen pictured, but didn't go into them there. Realize I'm a complete newbie at design and decoration, so be gentle with me.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

is it possible to float a sofa perpendicular to the longer room length but off-center without it looking weird?

for example, you have a 78" sofa in a 138" x 192" room. If you have it go perpendicular and center it, you only have 30" on each side. That's a bit small (I think 36" is the preferred minimum). but you could do 36"/24", especially if there's something on the adjoining wall on the 24" side anyway.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Apr 18, 2021

GoreJess
Aug 4, 2004

pretty in pink

Anonymous Zebra posted:

Hello all, Queen Victorian pointed me to this thread based on a post I made in the home ownership thread. I've quoted the post below.



She seemed to have some criticism of the kitchen pictured, but didn't go into them there. Realize I'm a complete newbie at design and decoration, so be gentle with me.

There were a lot of choices made in that kitchen. It looks like they were going for an old farmhouse look with all of the brick & that sink (which by the way is a giant apron sink).

Counters are granite. Backsplash is a brick veneer. Oven looks like a real vintage oven, but there are a few companies that make fake ones. Flooring looks like brick.

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

Hey welcome to the interior design Q&A thread! As for what bugs me about that kitchen, hobbez captured much of my sentiment in the home owner thread -it's simultaneously sparse and busy, the choice in finishes and styles is a weird mishmash of influences (rustic farmhouse, craftsman, modern, builder grade contemporary), clashing textures and colors (super busy floor/backsplash material, granite, paneled black millwork) - it just doesn't mesh well. The layout is weird and not particularly good (not much counter space other than the island, and not much in the way of uppers), and it's hard to get a decent sense of scale with the fake wide angle distortion and the table and chairs being shoved against the wall. Also don't like the ceiling - it's a hybrid of vaulting and tray ceiling (probably necessitated by needing to hide ducting), but seems to be a result of lazy design or vaulting added after the fact. Not really the kitchen's fault, but it's a detractor for me. Overall I really don't get what your wife sees in it. Like at all. :shrug:

Luckily for you, this means that you can do waaaaay better in remodeling the kitchen you currently have. Maybe sit down with your wife and look at kitchen pics to get a sense of what she actually wants. Projects and photos on Houzz are a good place to start - you can filter by style and color and more. Also Pinterest.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I agree with the clash of styles, also the floor and backsplash looks like it's had sand poured on it in random places, it's really distracting

the flush lighting and white walls are a modern look, but the rest is kind of all over the place

the top of the oven isn't flush with the counters, and neither is the sink

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

art question -

I want to replace this thing on the wall with the art thing in the bottom corner. would you pick 16x20 or 11x14 here?

The ikea thing on the wall is 17x19 for reference.

I'm also not sure if I should center it between the front and back of the vanity, or have it go over the edge a bit like the ikea thing is currently

the vanity is 22" deep

edit: better yet, something the other orientation - like 16 w 20 h I think would be better

Only registered members can see post attachments!

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Apr 21, 2021

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Don't overthink it but I think not sticking out too far past the vanity is good

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

makes sense. i do really like that picture, but I also like this one, which would probably fit better because it has the portrait orientation. 20 w 16 h, black frame, white border

also i have several other "tree" pieces so I guess it goes with the theme

oops, link https://www.minted.com/product/wall-art-prints/MIN-C4I-GNA/redwood-morning

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Apr 22, 2021

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


peanut posted:

Don't overthink it but I think not sticking out too far past the vanity is good

I will agree with both points. I'm also a fan of cutting out shapes of things in kraft paper then taping them to the wall. You can stand back and decide if that's a good placement, if not-remove and repeat.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


My walls are just covered in cut up paper and tape anyway (thanks kids, I love it!)

Ebola Dog
Apr 3, 2011

Dinosaurs are directly related to turtles!
Where's a good place/website to get blinds from in the UK? Looking to get some natural wood Venetian blinds to go in the bay window in my living room.

Hashtag Banterzone
Dec 8, 2005


Lifetime Winner of the willkill4food Honorary Bad Posting Award in PWM
X-posting from the woodworking thread

Anyone have strong feelings about wall paneling and columns? I'm building a dividing wall behind my bed and trying to figure out what would look best (and how thick the columns should be)

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

sorry, but I'm kind of confused what I'm looking at here. do you have a picture of the bed?

Hashtag Banterzone
Dec 8, 2005


Lifetime Winner of the willkill4food Honorary Bad Posting Award in PWM
Good point, I wasn't very clear about what I'm doing.

I'm making a dividing wall and adding a walk through closet behind it, the only thing I'm stuck on is the pattern for the wall paneling and the column size.

The idea is to do something like this



or this

Hashtag Banterzone fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Apr 26, 2021

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Hashtag Banterzone posted:

X-posting from the woodworking thread

Anyone have strong feelings about wall paneling and columns? I'm building a dividing wall behind my bed and trying to figure out what would look best (and how thick the columns should be)


A picture of your bed would help. Also is this a partition or a full floor to ceiling wall? Because I think partitions are terrible, but that's just me. I think a full wall is much nicer in every way, as well as much cozier. It's always unsettling seeing that dark, unknown space at the top of a wall. What the heck is hiding back there? Not to mention noise, privacy, etc.

Of what you posted, I like the bottom left the best-the proportions are sort of Craftsman/Arts & Crafts. I would like the other two better without the top row of panels, just small panel on bottom, big panel on top. so it looks sort of classical and wainscot-ish. I'm not sure what size bed you have or how the dimensions work out, but I would try to frame the bed with the panels to some extent. Make it look intentional-don't do a wall and then stick a bed in front of it with no relation to each other, try to make them tie in somewhat?

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I agree with a full partition, how do they typically open? on a track of some sort?

Hashtag Banterzone
Dec 8, 2005


Lifetime Winner of the willkill4food Honorary Bad Posting Award in PWM
I didn't post my bed because I'm not committed to keeping it.

Here's where the wall is going (another 2 ikea wardrobes will be going on the right where the metal shelf is). I don't want a full height wall because I think it's gonna block a lot of light and also I would have to move my ceiling fan.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Anonymous Zebra posted:

Hello all, Queen Victorian pointed me to this thread based on a post I made in the home ownership thread. I've quoted the post below.



She seemed to have some criticism of the kitchen pictured, but didn't go into them there. Realize I'm a complete newbie at design and decoration, so be gentle with me.

Search for "terracotta tile floor" - you'll get loads of images, and almost all of them will have similar colours to that flooring while being a lot more attractive. You might also find that getting a butcherblock countertop fits the rest of the styling better, and even if you don't want the hassle/cost, consider getting a stone style one with much subtler patterning, almost plain white.

The backsplash is also pretty ugly imo - white tiles or ones which match the cupboards might end up looking better.

I don't love this photo (rug under the sink lol), but IMO the simpler, white backsplash and countertop work much better with the dark cupboards and floors:

falz
Jan 29, 2005

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Hashtag Banterzone posted:

I didn't post my bed because I'm not committed to keeping it.

Here's where the wall is going (another 2 ikea wardrobes will be going on the right where the metal shelf is). I don't want a full height wall because I think it's gonna block a lot of light and also I would have to move my ceiling fan.


Not making GBS threads on anything but I've never seen a bedroom layout with the headboard of a bed just chilling in the middle of the room.

But i guess that's the point of a tiny wall. What's the usual way to do this, rotate the bed 180 and get some free standing 'accordian' wall things?

Hashtag Banterzone
Dec 8, 2005


Lifetime Winner of the willkill4food Honorary Bad Posting Award in PWM

falz posted:

Not making GBS threads on anything but I've never seen a bedroom layout with the headboard of a bed just chilling in the middle of the room.

But i guess that's the point of a tiny wall. What's the usual way to do this, rotate the bed 180 and get some free standing 'accordian' wall things?

yeah it's a little weird right now without the divider wall.

Once it's done it should look sorta like this but with paneling instead of drywall behind the bed



Here's the full layout

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


The wall in the picture has a very "solid" look - it might even have the same construction as yours, with pillars + paneling, but the design makes it looks as though it has depth all the way along. I think that's fairly important to its contribution to the room, it might all feel a bit flimsy otherwise.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Ymmv but given that layout, I would rotate the bed so its head is against the top wall between the two windows. I would also put doors on the wardrobes, not just for aesthetics but also because the sun can bleach your clothes.

Hashtag Banterzone
Dec 8, 2005


Lifetime Winner of the willkill4food Honorary Bad Posting Award in PWM

pointsofdata posted:

The wall in the picture has a very "solid" look - it might even have the same construction as yours, with pillars + paneling, but the design makes it looks as though it has depth all the way along. I think that's fairly important to its contribution to the room, it might all feel a bit flimsy otherwise.

That's a good point, that makes me think I should do probably do 5"x5" or bigger columns to give the wall a solid look. I'm also planning to cap the wall with a 1x5 to give it depth and strength.

Anne Whateley posted:

Ymmv but given that layout, I would rotate the bed so its head is against the top wall between the two windows. I would also put doors on the wardrobes, not just for aesthetics but also because the sun can bleach your clothes.

I thought about that layout but the windows are too close together and the bed and nightstands would block part of the window. I'm on the fence regarding wardrobe doors, but I figure if it looks messy I can buy them later.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Honestly that room doesn't feel big enough to carry off the look.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I get the idea of what you want to do, though for one thing I think the divider will be blocking out a lot of natural light (btw why are there curtains over the blinds? do you sleep during the day? I would just get darker blinds if needed and ditch the curtains, which look strange to me). You are going to have the right window totally blocked off, and some of the light from the upper right window blocked as well.

What if instead of having a partition, you flip the bed so the headboard is on the wall without a window? This way there's no light blockage. I would add doors to the front of the wardrobe if you can as it's very cluttered right now, or find a different one that can accommodate all the clothing you have.

I figured from your grid that each square is 6x6 inches. From that I put in some generic furniture with the same dimensions (or at least, as close as I could find). I ignored the little closet (?) in the bottom right. An 8x10 rug would work well here under the bed in this new open space, assuming that I'm pretty close with your dimensions (14x16 foot room, bed width around 78")

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Phanatic
Mar 13, 2007

Please don't forget that I am an extremely racist idiot who also has terrible opinions about the Culture series.
Goons please help me out with my lovely kitchen situation (I mean, it is a lovely kitchen, not a lovely situation which involves a kitchen).

First, pictures. It's small, the sink is terribly located (and terrible, the rim sits above counter-level so you can't just sweep stuff into it), I don't have enough counter space, and when I moved in it was all IKEA-grade or worse. I've replaced the stove, fridge, and range hood with decent stuff but the cabinets are falling apart, the steam from the dishwasher is starting to disintegrate the overhanging MDF countertop, and the floor is the thinnest of vinyl.




Adjacent on the other side of the non-structural (I've checked) wall is a small dining room with a table that gets mainly used to store mail before it gets thrown out and groceries before they go into the fridge. It's got a couple nice built-in cabinets in the corners.



What I'd like to do is tear down the wall and open up the whole space, but I don't want to start tearing into the exterior wall and changing where the windows are. I talked to a friend of mine and she threw some drawings together. First option does that that, appliances mostly stay where they are, built-in cabinets in the dining room stay where they are, and the counter gets extended and rotates out into a sort of island with more cabinets underneath.



Second option ditches the built-ins and moves the fridge. I'm not a big fan of this one because I cook, a lot, and moving the fridge to basically the place furthest away from the prep area sounds like a biiiig pain in the rear end.



Third option also moves the fridge, but to a much more reasonable location, also gets rid of the built-ins, but adds an island with cabinets.



And it is at this point that I'm basically just paralyzed by options and indecision. My whole reason for doing this is functionality, but it opens the door to form questions that I know very little about. Like, the living room floor is 1940s-era hardwood, with the little narrow strips, so I doubt I'm gonna match it across to the kitchen area, how do I make that look reasonably good? Cabinets are something I know nothing about, I can't even decide on a countertop material. I guess I've got like $35k to put into this, tops, but I don't want to just throw that around at things like enameled lava countertops. Which layout would you prefer? And how much does it cost to hire someone to just come up with something that looks good for a given budget?

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Fridge position is also not great in the first one, it's so big. 3 looks great to me, although are you sure you want your sink right next to the fridge? It can be nice to have space on both sides. idk how to solve the floor situation though.

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010
Everything is a bit awkward. You can't just toss things wherever you want though.

I just remodeled my kitchen. My notes are:

* Draw the current layout,, it will help determine what utilities are where (drain, gas, water, etc). When you plan you probably want to also draw elevation of each wall so you know where outlets are and whatnot.

* The dishwasher has to be next to a sink so it can drain. A few options don't have that and may be impossible. Also so water supply is easier.

* Pull out trash on other side of sink is A+

* Counter space on both sides of stove is also A+

* Same for sink

* That whole triangle layout thing seems important, only your first option has that.

* Center a sink on a window. It will be super weird if it's not (diagram 1).

I would suggest sketching up something where the "top" wall, left to right is: dishwasher with counter on top (replacing stove), sink, counter space with trash under, stove, peninsula or more counter space, fridge on bottom.

Fridge bottom is the weirdest part, it kinda puts it in it's own area, like mine. Here's what I just did from design to final. Ignore the designs that are 5th or so photos that have an island, didn't go with it due to advice in this thread that there's not enough room, which was disappointing but true.

https://imgur.com/a/m3bsYuC

Edit: per a few of my bullet points, think of organizing and using the kitchen per this super short video, I do now and it's so much more logical.

https://youtu.be/fJtHu37IB7A

falz fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Apr 26, 2021

Hashtag Banterzone
Dec 8, 2005


Lifetime Winner of the willkill4food Honorary Bad Posting Award in PWM

actionjackson posted:

I get the idea of what you want to do, though for one thing I think the divider will be blocking out a lot of natural light (btw why are there curtains over the blinds? do you sleep during the day? I would just get darker blinds if needed and ditch the curtains, which look strange to me). You are going to have the right window totally blocked off, and some of the light from the upper right window blocked as well.

What if instead of having a partition, you flip the bed so the headboard is on the wall without a window? This way there's no light blockage. I would add doors to the front of the wardrobe if you can as it's very cluttered right now, or find a different one that can accommodate all the clothing you have.

I figured from your grid that each square is 6x6 inches. From that I put in some generic furniture with the same dimensions (or at least, as close as I could find). I ignored the little closet (?) in the bottom right. An 8x10 rug would work well here under the bed in this new open space, assuming that I'm pretty close with your dimensions (14x16 foot room, bed width around 78")



I forgot to add the chimney that's in the middle of the left wall which makes it hard to put a bed there. It also feels awkward to walk into a bedroom and immediately have to turn to avoid running into the bed.



Blocking the one window sucks but I need enough clothing storage for two people. In person it doesn't feel too crammed even with the blinds closed on the one window it still gets plenty of light.

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

Phanatic posted:

Goons please help me out with my lovely kitchen situation (I mean, it is a lovely kitchen, not a lovely situation which involves a kitchen).

I choose none of the above (but #1 is probably the closest). Is your friend a designer? Sorry, but I personally would not trust the kitchen designs of anyone who would propose moving the sink clear across the room so that it is backed up against a fridge and only has counter space on one side and not also move the dishwasher. Also having a sink halfway under a window is the worst. Yes, you can see outside but your field of view is cut in half and it's surprisingly irritating and a potential source of neck strain.

This is a challenging space though, and I know how that is (ask me about designing a new kitchen for an 11'x14' space with obstacles including a giant protruding stove chimney, a huge window with 18" clearance from the floor, a radiator, and six doors).

It seems that some of your particular challenges are handling the floor transition and figuring out a good spot for the fridge. I would add having a stove not shoved into a corner.

A major problem with these three designs, to varying degrees, is that they eat up the dining room and make it into a less functional space. #2 is the worst about this. At least #3 replaces it with an island, but an island isn't a table and chairs and if you ever have friends over for dinner you're limited to two guests and you all have to sit facing the same way rather than facing each other. If you literally never have anyone over for food this would not be an issue.

I think your best bet for functional, more open kitchen layout while not screwing up the floor (lacing in a custom board width is gonna be hella expensive and ripping it out and replacing so the newly open kitchen zone floor matches would be a travesty) is to go with a peninsula solution. With small visual details like a wide cased opening surrounding the peninsula, you can pull off a floor transition and have it look perfectly intentional.

You could consider putting the sink on the peninsula. You could consider a narrower peninsula without seating so you don't encroach too much on the dining space (also your table would be right loving there so why do you need redundant counter seating?).

The fridge is challenge, but that looks like a seriously deep fridge. It is standard depth and not counter depth, yes? If so, is replacing it with a 24" counter-depth model an option? Building some cabinetry around it will also help it feel more built it and less intrusively jutting out and just being there.

Another question: why do none of those plans try to utilize the featureless section of wall where you have the pots now? Going with a U-formation and putting the stove there instead of the corner seems like a worthwhile option. I'd prioritize getting it out of the corner. That might allow you to move the sink under the window (centered, of course).

Also, another thing to consider is not opening up the kitchen at all. Opening up a kitchen into the dining room by removing a wall gives you more square footage devoted to the kitchen but it removes a whole wall, which is a great place to put a wall's worth of upper cabinets. I think you might want to consider this option with the U-formation + shallower fridge.

Or even better, an L-formation where you use the empty pan wall for one of the counter walls instead of the wall opposite the dining room, and move the dining room doorway to be more centered. Doing this will give you a better, less obtrusive placement for your fridge, have the stove not in a corner, have the sink under the window, and not require you to gently caress with the hardwood in the dining room. What are the rough dimensions? I'll draw a picture.

Hutla
Jun 5, 2004

It's mechanical
It sucks, but $35k is not that much when it comes to kitchen remodeling. Moving plumbing is expeeeeeeeensive and your current stove/ water layout is awkward. Your biggest bang for buck might honestly be to remove the upper cabinets and wall separating the kitchen from dining room and add bar seating to the dining side.

Perhaps add a sideboard or something to the dining room for storage of occasional use items. Then you could replace or reface cabinets and get a nice countertop. I agree that putting your fridge way on the opposite end of the room would be a nightmare.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Hashtag Banterzone posted:

I forgot to add the chimney that's in the middle of the left wall which makes it hard to put a bed there. It also feels awkward to walk into a bedroom and immediately have to turn to avoid running into the bed.



Blocking the one window sucks but I need enough clothing storage for two people. In person it doesn't feel too crammed even with the blinds closed on the one window it still gets plenty of light.



you could put the head of the bed against the bottom wall then. you have a few options for wardrobe space here. this will leave a lot more open space, and will not block off any light (the other wardrobe I put on top in this image might have to be moved elsewhere).

Only registered members can see post attachments!

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Apr 26, 2021

Hutla
Jun 5, 2004

It's mechanical
The more I think about that stove wedged in the corner, the more mad I get. It reminds me of all the lovely cut up apartments where they wedged a "kitchen" into a former closet and you couldn't open the oven door fully.

Phanatic
Mar 13, 2007

Please don't forget that I am an extremely racist idiot who also has terrible opinions about the Culture series.

falz posted:

* The dishwasher has to be next to a sink so it can drain. A few options don't have that and may be impossible. Also so water supply is easier.

The dishwasher is currently not next to the sink and drains just fine.

Hutla posted:

The more I think about that stove wedged in the corner, the more mad I get. It reminds me of all the lovely cut up apartments where they wedged a "kitchen" into a former closet and you couldn't open the oven door fully.

Stove location is due to original construction, that's where the gas line is and that's where the cutout through the exterior brickwork is for the exhaust vent.

Moving plumbing if necessary won't be too bad, that's the wet wall for the house and it's a very accessible basement.

Queen Victorian posted:

A major problem with these three designs, to varying degrees, is that they eat up the dining room and make it into a less functional space. #2 is the worst about this. At least #3 replaces it with an island, but an island isn't a table and chairs and if you ever have friends over for dinner you're limited to two guests and you all have to sit facing the same way rather than facing each other. If you literally never have anyone over for food this would not be an issue.

That was pretty much the point: I have a dining room that never gets used for dining, and a kitchen that's too small for the use it gets. When I have people over to eat we go out in the yard. (As for the sink halfway in front of the window, I agree but the sink right now is in the corner of my counter, and it's just about the worst location everywhere from an efficient-use-of-space perspective.)

quote:

The fridge is challenge, but that looks like a seriously deep fridge. It is standard depth and not counter depth, yes? If so, is replacing it with a 24" counter-depth model an option?

Standard-depth fridge. Not replacing it, I got it because my old fridge was too small, took a poo poo, and I was planning on redoing the kitchen anyway.

quote:

Another question: why do none of those plans try to utilize the featureless section of wall where you have the pots now? Going with a U-formation and putting the stove there instead of the corner seems like a worthwhile option. I'd prioritize getting it out of the corner.

The issue there is that on the other side of that featureless wall is a porch that was added on previously. So if the stove moves there, there's no way to vent it other than onto the porch, which isn't really venting it at that point, it's just spewing grease and smoke all over the porch. The current stove location is not a thing that I find bothers me at all, I'm not putting my foot down on moving it or anything but to me it's entirely fine where it's at. Unlike the sink.

quote:

Or even better, an L-formation where you use the empty pan wall for one of the counter walls instead of the wall opposite the dining room, and move the dining room doorway to be more centered. Doing this will give you a better, less obtrusive placement for your fridge, have the stove not in a corner, have the sink under the window, and not require you to gently caress with the hardwood in the dining room. What are the rough dimensions? I'll draw a picture.

The dimensions of the dining room? About 11x10. Thanks for the suggestions.

I probably should mention that I was doing to be doing my own electric.

Phanatic fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Apr 26, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

true counter depth 24" deep fridges are not really a thing in the US unless you are looking at really high-end brands (subzero, thermador, etc.). counter depth typically is in the 28-30 range

the deepest 36" "counter depth" fridge home depot sells is about 26 3/4" deep

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Appliances-Refrigerators/Counter-Depth/36-Inch-Wide/N-5yc1vZc3piZ1z196zcZ1z1a95q

this is an unfortunate side effect of the Euro kitchen model only really being adopted in really expensive kitchens to this point (i.e. one with built-in appliances). Also I'm sure US kitchens are substantially larger on average, in which case people don't care about a fridge sticking out as much.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Apr 26, 2021

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

Phanatic posted:

The dishwasher is currently not next to the sink and drains just fine.

It likely is a kludge or just barely reaches. Either way, it's designed to be next to a sink and if you don't, you'll have to do a bunch of extra work to get it to function.

The less of that you do overall will make your job easier and keep the costs down.

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

Hutla posted:

It sucks, but $35k is not that much when it comes to kitchen remodeling. Moving plumbing is expeeeeeeeensive and your current stove/ water layout is awkward. Your biggest bang for buck might honestly be to remove the upper cabinets and wall separating the kitchen from dining room and add bar seating to the dining side.

Even with a small budget I think it's worth it to get poo poo placed correctly, especially in this kitchen. Most of its problems come from suboptimal placement of appliances (and their respective plumbing) and generally bad layout. If that means you have to skimp on finishes, I'd take it - I'd much rather have a well-designed Formica and particleboard kitchen than a poorly designed one with fancy finishes. You can upgrade finishes/appliances whenever.

quote:

Perhaps add a sideboard or something to the dining room for storage of occasional use items.

Very much this. Sideboards/china hutches/breakfronts/built-ins in the dining room/area are great for housing kitchen overflow.

Phanatic posted:

That was pretty much the point: I have a dining room that never gets used for dining, and a kitchen that's too small for the use it gets. When I have people over to eat we go out in the yard.

I was more getting at the design proposals turning a whole room (which could serve as not only a dining room, but a den, whiskey tasting room, study, craft room, etc.) and turning it into awkward dead space.

But then again, it's a small space and sometimes you'll get a more functional kitchen if you go with a non-eat-in setup (what we are doing with our kitchen) and have your place for sitting and eating in the dining room/area only.

quote:

Standard-depth fridge. Not replacing it, I got it because my old fridge was too small, took a poo poo, and I was planning on redoing the kitchen anyway.

You can disregard my previous remarks on replacing the fridge - figured a better solution for accommodating the standard depth size.

quote:

The issue there is that on the other side of that featureless wall is a porch that was added on previously. So if the stove moves there, there's no way to vent it other than onto the porch, which isn't really venting it at that point, it's just spewing grease and smoke all over the porch. The current stove location is not a thing that I find bothers me at all, I'm not putting my foot down on moving it or anything but to me it's entirely fine where it's at. Unlike the sink.

Even if you don't mind the stove being there, I think its placement in that corner is the source to a lot of woes, claustrophobic vibe aside, and leaving it there eliminates a lot of possibilities. I would strongly consider relocating the vent so you can move the stove. Pipe it above the porch if you have to. If this were my kitchen, getting the stove out of that corner would be a top priority.

We had a similar issue with where the gently caress to put the fridge, and it was impossible to arrive at a solution until it occurred to me to reroute the basement stairs from the kitchen into the hallway and create a nook for the fridge in the old basement entrance.

quote:

The dimensions of the dining room? About 11x10. Thanks for the suggestions.

Here is my quick, crude, and poorly photographed concept:


(Note: pretend the stove is centered on the dining room doorway)

Basically, it rotates the L of counters by moving the stove out of the corner and to the porch wall, which in turn lets you put the sink centered under the window. Dishwasher can go right next to the sink and be easy to load, and you have a whole lot of uppers for dishes right there so you can most of your time unloading the dishwasher standing in one place and not walking back and forth.

The other important change this concept makes other than moving the stove is moving the doorway to a centered position and widening it to a nice cased opening. Since it is a doorway rather than a lack of wall, you can have a standard floor transition and have it look natural and not have to do anything about expanding or ripping out your hardwood.

Moving the doorway away from that bottom wall creates a perfect space for the full depth fridge AND some additional counter space and cabinets. The 6" space between the fridge and the wall could be for one of those nifty tall pull-out shelves (my parents' fridge similarly situated and have one of these and it owns) - didn't want to shove the fridge directly against the wall and doorway.

Dining room still has all its walls, which means you have a lot of space to put tall storage furniture for auxiliary supplies and whatnot.

An option is to push the wall outward into the dining room to expand the kitchen a bit. You'll lose some hardwood but still have a clean floor transition.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


I agree with this plan. You gotta keep that corner built-in cabinet.

My ideal plan would require putting the stove under the window (or removing the window)… whatever it takes to keep that proper outside-vented hood.

You also need to consider placement of counter-top appliances like microwaves, toasters, and coffee makers. Good luck!

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

This is going to be my new bathroom floor tile (my current floor is hideous). I don't think I want to do a regular grid pattern, any thought on 1/2 offset vs. 1/3? The bathroom is pretty small and the tiles are 12x24". It seems like the visual effect of the 1/3 might not really be that noticeable in such a small space though (the sort of "ladder" of vertical lines as you look across horizontally).

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actionjackson fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Apr 27, 2021

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peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Do those tiles have a 1:2 ratio? You could do 2 vertical, 2 horizontal, in a checkboard pattern (like a loss edit, see below) or fat herringbone.

川三川三
三川三川
川三川三

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