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Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Help me thread, I bought a house. Now I need to fill it with my poo poo in a tasteful manner.

Wishlist

1. Clean and crisp.
2. No clutter.
3. Kid friendly.
4. Leaning towards Scandinavian design thoughts.

Specifics
Master bedroom on the ground floor with an attached deck. South facing.
Two bedrooms upstairs. (One for kiddo, one for guests)
2.5 Bath
Open concept living room.

I'm not in the house yet and don't take possession until March. So I've got time to plan and adjust as necessary. Once I have a chance to measure it up I'll get a basic floorplan but for now all I know is it's 2,380 square feet.



Living room as taken from the kitchen. I really dislike the faux finish electric fireplace. It will go away. Taxidermy will also go away.



Kitchen taken from the exact position as above, except 180 degrees. Appliances are all brand new except the fridge. The kitchen is on my list for future renovation, I'm not a fan of the mid 80's oak kitchen styling. Granite countertops are new as well. I wish the beams were left unpainted and had a natural wood finish.



Dining room. Southeast facing corner. Attached and partially covered deck just outside. "Thankful" sign will go away.



Another view of the dining area. Note large closets.



West facing bedroom.



Master bedroom.



Upstairs common area. Will be a central study area/LEGO/play spot for kids and friends.

My skill level is fairly high. I've done bathroom remodels, painted, etc, and have a complete woodshop at my disposal as well as a metalworking shop. Furniture stores are very limited as I live in the hinterlands of far northern Michigan. Realistically we'll probably drive the 6 hours to Milwaukee and hit up Ikea. Beyond that my options are places like Ashley Furniture. My wife has a lot of photography that we'd like to put up instead of generic wall covering kind of crap.

What are your thoughts thread? Initially I'd like to focus on ideas for the living room.

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Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


actionjackson posted:

Can you provide pics of the entire living room and approximate dimensions? What do you want the living room to be used for, i.e. what are the major items you would like it to have? Please be as specific as possible if you can, thanks!

The best thing to get down first imo is the sofa, chair, rug etc. placement. that will kind of define the area.

Yes, absolutely. I'm waiting till the closing date to get in and get some measurements, that'll be end of this month. Below are pics I have from the Zillow listing.

Living room goal is a sectional couch, recliner, end table, coffee table, TV/entertainment center. It'll be the general chill out location. Probably some bookshelves too. Family PC/Desk may go in that room or upstairs. We haven't decided yet. In case it matters the existing TV is on the north facing wall, so not a lot of sunshine coming through that side. There was once a Woodstove where the current TV is. I have no desire for a wood stove, but a small propane freestanding stove would be awesome, I just don't know how to incorporate that along with a TV in the space in a way that makes sense. It seems that I'd have two focal points in the room. Maybe once I have some dimensions we can find a way to make it work.





Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


actionjackson posted:

thanks, I'll try to come up with something pretty basic for now. That reddish sofa in the pic is very bizarrely placed. For those major items, are these things you already own or are you going to buy them? Can you give me approximate sizes? "Sectional" is pretty broad, is this like a sofa with a right or left hand chaise, or something larger like a U shape?

The reddish sofa is quite weirdly placed, I'm not sure why either. We have a single couch but will be getting a new one. We're up in the air right now as to fabric, or suede/leather. We have a chocolate lab and a cat, hair is an issue. Think something like : https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/kivik-sectional-5-seat-with-chaise-hillared-anthracite-s89193613/ or https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/finnala-sectional-5-seat-corner-with-chaise-grann-bomstad-black-s19319263/.

This is a terrible approximate mock up. Once I can get an actual tape measure in I'll have something nicer.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


actionjackson posted:

I would recommend just starting with the most fundamental item, which is the sofa/sectional etc. and rug. I also added in a tv stand. This is all just placeholder stuff, so I also added in some hideous chairs and a random coffee table. Do not get furniture that actually looks like this. Also there's an end table (the glass thing) and a floor lamp (black circle)

this sectional is 10 feet wide, and the rug is 12x15. I absolutely think going 12x15 is best for such a large room. It's the biggest "common size" rug and would work really well I think. I would probably not get the ginormous kivik. What is your budget for the sectional? You could get a pretty drat nice fabric one for the price of the Ikea leather one.



Awesome dude thanks. We're not tied into any particular sofa/sectional right now. The leather is just a good fit as the dog tends to make everything smell like him even if we wash him, and the furniture regularly.

The more I look at the pictures the more I need to get in and get some proper measurements.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Got the keys today and took some measurements.



Dropbox Link : https://www.dropbox.com/s/6yegnxn09bt69e3/Empty%20Living%20Room.skp?dl=0

Initially thinking something like this.



We've got a lot of space and that wooden beam is making it challenging to work around. It is structural so I can't just Grover it out. Not without doing some serious Structural Engineering shenanigans.

This was the original layout :

Any alternative design thoughts? If I wanted to hire an Interior Designer, does anyone know of one who works online? I live in the hinterlands of the north and the odds of finding someone local who does anything beyond Old People Homes is slim to none.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


falz posted:

Is the tv wall mounted? Maybe try a few layouts, give each a little time before mounting tv.

Also are you in the U.P.? Just curious.

TV could be wall mount or stand mount. And yes, I am in the UP.


nielsm posted:

The different ceiling levels you can see in the photo might make for an awkward feeling if you're sitting orthogonal to the split that creates, even more if you have some people in a gathering sitting on one side and some on the other. I think it'd feel better to divide the room along that split.

I see what you mean about the difference in ceiling. I'll have to put some thought into a unique way to work with it.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Update! What I thought was faux indoor logs with a slight radius is actually cupped from past water damage. We're ordering all new tongue and groove. Looking at either birch or aspen. Beyond that I've got a structural engineer coming in two months :staredog: to scope out moving the beam. Also going to be replacing the floral style lighting with something more neutral. I hate browsing lights online, hard to get a grasp of scale. Almost as bad staring up at Home Depot in the semi sauna that is the lighting department.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


I'll dig into wood and wood like flooring a bit.

Laminate Flooring

$0.50 - $3.00 sq/ft



Thicknesses ranging from 7mm to 12mm. Most are click lock, the cheaper stuff will possibly click once and then the edge is kind of screwed. So if you realize you didn't get it just right you're kind of screwed. The biggest benefit is cheap. But if you drop a coffee cup it will chip and you'll see white backer, the core, or a nasty chip. Surprisingly durable to abrasion. Does not like water. Seams will swell and it'll go to poo poo. Laminate is not a bad floor, but requires proper prep and especially leveling. If the floor is not level you are relying on those lovely click-lock joints and when those flex apart you get a lovely floor. Can be installed after removing another floor without (usually) redoing the trim or cutting doors.

Engineered Hardwood

$2.00 to $10.00 sq/ft



Thicknesses from 3/8" to 3/4". Click lock, adhesive, or nail down. Even the cheap engineered hardwood is nicer than the mid grade laminate. It's basically plywood with a veneer of real wood. Price not only dictates the wood but how much real wood there is. It will age like actual wood. Dropping a coffee cup will result in a dent. Does better with water than Laminate and some grades call it out as "below grade". I had this in my entry way for about 10 years and never saw any issues with water damage or swelling. Also requires good prep, leveling etc. The thinner grades can be installed without removing trim or cutting doors.

Bamboo

$2.00 to $7.00 sq/ft



Thicknesses from 3/8" to 3/4". Click, adhesive, nail down. It looks like bamboo but with a lot of potential color variations. But it looks like bamboo. It's not popular in my area so I don't have any experience with how it ages.

Luxury Vinyl Plank

$1.00 to $6.00 sq/ft



Thicknesses from 5mm to 9mm. Click lock. Avoid "peel and stick" like the plague. Someone realized you can make a more durable "laminate" by poo poo canning the interior wood and using vinyl. It'll look like the above laminate, last about as long, handle moisture better, and last longer. My expectation (and my cousin who installs professionally) is this will totally replace traditional laminate. There's nothing that wood core laminate does that this doesn't do better. It installs the same, can go below grade, and probably will handle said coffee cup better. Don't drag heavy things on it, it can tear. Look for vinyl plank that when held by one end does not droop! Droopy flooring is lovely flooring, look for something with a solid core. Where this "luxury" product will go bad is people will not prep it properly so it will get a bad reputation.

Hardwood

$3.00 to $$$$ sq/ft



Typical thickness is 3/4". Normally nailed in with a special nailing gun. Also can be glued but nailing is not that bad. Can be unfinished all the way to totally finished. Finishing it can be done yourself. It is hard. The HomeDepot sander sucks. Getting the finish smooth and bubble free is hard. Can be stained. Almost always coated with a polyurethane product. Water poly goes on the quickest and yellows the wood less (it may still happen depeding on the type of wood) while oil based urethanes take longer to dry, but have more solids and more protection. Wood floors will age the best. Won't like moisture. Prep is even more essential, including things like allowing for seasonal swelling. You can also get reclaimed flooring that looks amazing but that's really regional.

JANKA!



The Janka chart is how hard a wood is. It's a decent starting point but not the end all. There are "soft" birch floors that are in bedrooms and look amazing after 150 years. My father in law liked the look of polyurethaned OSB and used that for 15 years. So it's not an example of how tough your floor will be, but how deep of a ding that dropped coffee cup will be.

Wood Grain Tile

$5.00 to $10 sq/ft



If you like wood, but want it in your bathroom, you can get a wood grain tile. All of the poo poo you need to do for wood still has to happen, but now you need to do all the tile poo poo. Schluter underlayment, proper mortar, grout, etc. And you need to prep it all too. I did this in my bathroom and was really happy with the look. Be sure to follow the Schluter documents 100% including using the seam tape and such. A dropped coffee cup will either break, do nothing, or chip the tile.

PREP

You should spend as much time on prep as you do laying the actual floor. This includes removing the old floor, tack strips, and bad wood. It also includes finding loose pieces of the underflooring and driving in screws around it. You will also need a quality floor leveler product. In my new house the previous owners did not level the floor and now two years later it's really apparent. All of these things take time and those "install a new floor on a Saturday!" HomeDepot fliers don't tell you about the 2 days of prep that are needed. A floating floor will conform to a non-flat floor over time or it will have "hollows". You want a solid connection even if it's floating otherwise it feels cheap and wont last as long.

Check out a YouTube channel called "Home RenoVision DIY" for some really good details in how to do this stuff right - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnorhjQR4zJkT7AVNhu395Q

Yooper fucked around with this message at 13:12 on Apr 10, 2021

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


actionjackson posted:

I just want to clarify something, there are laminates that have waterproofing now, which is what I got (for mine it's called AquaSeal).

https://www.llflooring.com/p/aquaseal-12mm-golden-gate-oak-laminate-flooring-10046497.html

My floor is also pretty thick (12mm) which I found is nice having a dog just for noise reduction. I have yet to notice any sort of abrasion due to her nails.

I haven't had any issues with the waterproof part - if my dog has an accident that I don't discover right away, there's no issue with cleaning it up, and also I can wet mop the floor without any issues, which is nice (I've been using a swiffer wet jet, but will probably get one of those Bona spray mops soon)

Now despite the waterproof part, I would definitely not put it in an area with constant moisture, like a kitchen or bathroom!

It is surprisingly resistant to abrasion, my local flooring store lets you take a belt sander to it for a few seconds. Very interesting in regards to the LVP, thermal stability can be a bitch. It's one reason I like the engineered hardwood, you get two directions of strand orientation to help with this.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


actionjackson posted:

I never looked into engineered hardwood at the time, but I assume that it is less susceptible to humidity issues than regular hardwood. My main concern would be the same though, basically if I leave home, dog pees on floor, I come back several hours later - does it just soak in permanently?

Though I did notice that at the place I want, there is an "aquaseal" engineered hardwood as well. However it's only on 3/74 varieties.

In general, most of the engineered stuff would have broken the bank for me anyway. It would have added at least 3k to the total cost.

Also since you clearly know flooring pretty well, any comments on Bona mops? They seem to be pretty well reviewed for cleaning hard floors.

https://us.bona.com/products/Bona--Premium-Spray-Mop-for-Stone--Tile----Laminate-Floors.html

I've been trying to find something that scrubs enough to actually get out the little drool puddles that my dog leaves all over the floor (you can only see them when light shines on them).

My engineered hardwood was in an entryway that saw melting snow and heavy foot traffic for years and never warped or showed any evidence of water damage. That said if it had seeped around the trim then it could have caused swelling as the base plywood could have soaked it up. But even hardwood flooring, sealed with a urethane, should be fairly well impervious to moisture. I'm not familiar with the Bona but we had a similar thing from our local hardware store. It's OK, I ended up settling on a Swiffer wet because it was easy. Unless you're mopping like it's boot camp then I think you'll be fine. I figure people have done terrible things to floors over the last century and old floors always look awesome.

Our next floor will be either a hickory hardwood or engineered hardwood with hickory. Mainly because I don't want to worry about any yellowing and hickory seems to stay pretty true to color.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


SkyeAuroline posted:

There might be a better thread for this, but:
Need to get a bookcase so I can get my books out of the moving box on the floor (and make sure none are damaged/will be damaged while I'm at it). I'm in the unfortunate place of carpeted floors without being able to drill in a bracket to steady it, and needing a taller-than-standard shelf size to fit some RPG books (a4 or larger). I'd normally just go through our platform to investigate, but everything under $500 is the cheap and lovely "open-side box with no feet" style. Any recommendations for quality construction at least? Don't exactly have much interior decor to coordinate with besides black faux-wood desk and the lovely white trim on the walls, so that's not a high concern on the list.

So you can't anchor it to the wall? The last bookshelf I hung I used a french cleat to keep it away from the floor trim. It was a shallow shelf and almost ceiling to floor.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012



That Hive Modern Happy Day Shelf is sexy and I want it in my house.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Looking for a light recommendation. It's a north facing wall, one large window to the north, a smaller window to the west. Vaulted ceiling in half of the room with a tongue and groove ceiling, the other half has a 9 ft ceiling that is white tongue and groove and beams. There is currently 3 wall lights that are ugly and floral style and two matching boob lights in the white tongue and groove area. The ceiling fan provides fairly poor light.

I'm looking at something like this : https://www.roomandboard.com/catalog/lighting/living-room-lighting/cedric-wall-sconce

My concern is the room needs more light, but I don't want to go overboard. Ideally I'd have another large window to the north, but it's not in the budget. I'm currently removing the wall covering (tongue and groove) and installing drywall. It'll be a light/forest green with wood trim.



That is not our room, but the look we're going for.



That is the room, or part of it at least.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


actionjackson posted:

I'm a bit confused - the second pic is your house, but the first is not?

Where exactly would this light be going, and what would be it's main function? What other lighting would be in the room?

800 lumens isn't too bright so I wouldn't be too considered about it being overwhelming. You can always get a dimmer anyway. 800 is around what you would expect in a small to medium pendant if that's a helpful reference point at all. The lowest I've ever seen online is like 450 lumens. And 2700K is pretty soft.

Correct, the 2nd pic is our place. First pic is the color and trim scheme we're going with.

Lights will be going on the walls. Main function is general lighting on the perimeter.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


actionjackson posted:

Okay. I just need a bit more info to understand - what are the dimensions of the room, what other lighting will you have besides these sconces, and how many sconces would you be putting up? would it be three just like there are now, and then two replacement ceiling lights?


21 X 28, with the large window being on the 28' wall. Yes, it would have the three sconces, two replacement boob lights, and the ceiling fan. Maybe a floor light down the road as well.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


hypnophant posted:

What are you planning to use this room for? That’s going to be a big factor as a work area, reading space, or tv watching space all need different kinds of lighting

anyway from the pic you posted there’s a boob light (flush mount) in an area with a low ceiling that’s further lowered and divided by beams. That’s basically guaranteed to create weird, uncomfortable shadows and uneven lighting. I’d take it out entirely and add a couple more wall sconces instead. Ideally i’d have them evenly spaced around the perimeter of that half of the room for nice even area lighting, and then add a floor lamp or table lamp on an end table next to a couch to provide some spot lighting for reading. If this is going to be a work area you could do cans instead but i think they’d be too harsh for a cozy space like that, but it depends how you want to use the room.

For the other half of the room with a higher ceiling, you could add another flush mount if you’re into that, or alternatively 9ft is high enough to hang some pendants off a track which i think is a really nice solution for a room with high ceilings. You get very even, bright light from 360° sources hanging in space and it feels much less impersonal than a high up flush mount or can light. You probably won’t need much more if you go this route but you could certainly add a couple wall sconces or floor lights as an accent.

It's a general purpose entry / living room. The current boob lights do make weird light and we really haven't decided what to do in that area. Possibly a couch/reading nook, but I'm not really sure to be honest. We've only been in the place for 3 months. I like the pendant idea, we have a ceiling fan in there now but the light isn't great out of it.

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Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


DaveSauce posted:

Hi interior design thread. This is more of an exterior design question, but pretty sure it qualifies for this thread. I don't know what I'm doing with regards to picking colors and whatnot.

We're getting a screened porch built. It's great. The ceiling is going to be beadboard. Initially we thought we were going to get it stained, probably a color on the lighter end.

But now I'm going back and forth between that and just painting it white.

Here's a picture of it right now:



And decking for reference:



So the rails are white, balusters are black, but all the posts and trim will be painted white. The house trim is already white, and we plan on keeping it that way because we're boring and have a HOA. Thinking about it, stain might be out of place given all that. For reference, the front porch ceiling is beadboard and is painted white, but I don't know if that really matters or not since that's the front of the house. Looking at the pictures again, the bump out bottom is white, so I'm wondering if sticking with that is the way to go.

The colors of the decking are Trex Spiced Rum (picture frame) and Havana Gold (main boards). The rails will have a cocktail rail using the Spiced Rum.

Thoughts? If we went with stain, we were thinking something close to what we have inside for the cabinets/floors. Closest I could come up with is Sherwin Williams/Minwax Yellow Steppe. Thought process is that the ceiling should be a light color to avoid closing the space in.

I just did a bunch of test stains for my interior trim. One of the stains we used was a "mist" color, it is whitish-grey but the wood grain still shines through. One of these woods is poplar, the other alder. Might give you the best of both worlds. It was from these guys. They had some other stains like this.

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