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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I've designed room layouts for a few friends, and am happy to give it a whirl for anyone in this thread if they are interested - so this is pretty much design-style neutral. I'm not a professional interior designer or anything, but I have a relative who is. I just use roomstyler - nothing fancy. Just basic room dimensions, and size of things like doors, windows, etc. are helpful to have at the start.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Can you provide pics of the entire living room and approximate dimensions? What do you want the living room to be used for, i.e. what are the major items you would like it to have? Please be as specific as possible if you can, thanks!

The best thing to get down first imo is the sofa, chair, rug etc. placement. that will kind of define the area.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

thanks, I'll try to come up with something pretty basic for now. That reddish sofa in the pic is very bizarrely placed. For those major items, are these things you already own or are you going to buy them? Can you give me approximate sizes? "Sectional" is pretty broad, is this like a sofa with a right or left hand chaise, or something larger like a U shape?

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Yooper posted:

The reddish sofa is quite weirdly placed, I'm not sure why either. We have a single couch but will be getting a new one. We're up in the air right now as to fabric, or suede/leather. We have a chocolate lab and a cat, hair is an issue. Think something like : https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/kivik-sectional-5-seat-with-chaise-hillared-anthracite-s89193613/ or https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/finnala-sectional-5-seat-corner-with-chaise-grann-bomstad-black-s19319263/.

This is a terrible approximate mock up. Once I can get an actual tape measure in I'll have something nicer.



I would recommend just starting with the most fundamental item, which is the sofa/sectional etc. and rug. I also added in a tv stand. This is all just placeholder stuff, so I also added in some hideous chairs and a random coffee table. Do not get furniture that actually looks like this. Also there's an end table (the glass thing) and a floor lamp (black circle)

this sectional is 10 feet wide, and the rug is 12x15. I absolutely think going 12x15 is best for such a large room. It's the biggest "common size" rug and would work really well I think. I would probably not get the ginormous kivik. What is your budget for the sectional? You could get a pretty drat nice fabric one for the price of the Ikea leather one.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

White fixtures go well with neutral colored walls, but with yours it definitely sticks out like a sore thumb due to the wall paint color. You don't want people to come into your place and have their attention drawn to the outlets. I think one that is darkish would look much better, like what you mentioned (you could also try matching it to the wood on the right). There's also wall plates that come in a bunch of different colors.

Levitron and Lutron both make ones with no visible screws, which is really nice. That's more of a modern style though.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Jan 20, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

would a chair angled in the same orientation as this arrow work? I'm still working through my living room. I have no idea when the corner rug chair works and when it doesn't. Everything in the pic is pretty much sized as it is in real life, but the colors are wrong on some things since some of my stuff wasn't in room styler, so I'm really just asking about placement. It might be a cool to have a rocking chair there that isn't too narrow, like this

https://www.bludot.com/buttercup-rocker.html

or an eames rocker https://www.dwr.com/living-rocking-chairs-recliners/eames-rocking-shell-chair/2197712.html

most actual armchairs are too large for the space.

major stuff I have or am getting very soon

https://www.bludot.com/the-new-standard-78-sofa.html in maharam mode intaglio
https://www.bludot.com/right-on-rugs.html 6x9 color mix 1
https://www.dwr.com/living-media-storage/aura-media-unit/1198.html?lang=en_US in walnut/granite
https://www.dwr.com/lighting-floor/elise-floor-lamp/525.html?lang=en_US black base, 60" (top right corner)
https://www.dwr.com/living-side-end-tables/circoe-table/2197483.html?lang=en_US in blue
https://www.bludot.com/hecks-ottoman.html in charcoal for in front of the sofa

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

nishi koichi posted:

the walls in my new room aren’t flat white like literally everywhere else i’ve lived before. two walls are olive green, and two are tan. i’m kind of a grayscale freak who doesn’t know how color works, so most of my furniture is either black or white, though i have a dark brown desk. i feel like this look is a bit overwhelming, maybe because it looks a little “military” to me, so i’m looking for a change. which colors would you suggest for curtains? the window (68x44”) is against the olive green wall, and the trim is white.

as an aside, the sill is deep enough to sit in, which rocks

you need to post some pictures

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

nishi koichi posted:

i’d rather not, if possible

I mean okay, but it's hard to evaluate anything related to color without this.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I get that, but color doesn't look accurate online. The best thing you can do is take pictures with a really good camera, and then get samples of other colors and compare

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Goober Peas posted:

Asking for pictures, but declaring color doesn't look accurate online?

I'm on team ivory/cream based upon what was described.

I'm talking about the renders that companies put of their paints online, they are pretty terrible

getting samples and putting them on the wall, and taking good pictures of that is the best option that is not in person

for curtains, you should be able to get fabric samples as well, so I would definitely recommend that to put up against the wall

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Jan 23, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

yep, when my friends in Seattle were deciding on wall paint, they ended up getting 7-8 different samples and painting 2x2 foot squares of each before deciding, and they also commented the colors weren't remotely close to what they thought they'd look like

if you know you are going to paint, doing it right on the wall is no issue since it will be covered up soon, and you can see how the color looks with your specific lighting situation

I've done samples with paint, sofa fabric, rugs, ottomans and mini-blinds and it definitely helps a ton

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jan 23, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I prefer the second, mainly because I think the first is too dark, and also I think that wall separating the tub and shower should stand out as its own element.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I just think the divider should not be black if that wall is also black in the first pic.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

we were just talking about Nakashima in the other thread recently

what size and color dining table approximately?

here's a few that might work. the first one reminds me most of the pictures you posted

https://www.dwr.com/kitchen-dining-tables/cross-fixed-table/2516928.html?lang=en_US
https://www.dwr.com/kitchen-dining-tables/dulwich-extension-table/100131175.html?lang=en_US
https://www.dwr.com/outdoor-dining-tables/kayu-teak-dining-table/1886.html?lang=en_US
https://www.dwr.com/kitchen-dining-tables/gather-table/9394.html?lang=en_US (73" oak version)
https://www.bludot.com/keeps-77-inch-dining-table.html
https://hivemodern.com/pages/product11725/magis-butch-the-wild-bunch-table-konstantin-grcic
https://hivemodern.com/pages/product9217/distil-table-todd-bracher-herman-miller
https://hivemodern.com/pages/product10843/gubi-rectangular-dining-table-komplot-design-gubi

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

lol

sorry I even bothered, gl man

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

grvm posted:

I didn’t post but I’m in the market and really grateful for this post . I really dig that first DWR table.

nice! if they have a store in your area be sure to call them up and ask if they have it on display

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Has anyone here ever gotten a PPG paint sample at home depot?

My place came with a couple paints that they previous owner didn't leave the name of. I found something very similar in my benjamin moore packet, but ideally I'd like to "reverse engineer" and find the actual RGB values of those paints (I got the sample from taking a piece off the wall).

All I have is what's pictured, and I have no idea what it means or if it's useful.

one other paint question: how does the finish of a paint affect the LRV? presumably eggshell should result in a higher LRV than flat or matte.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Phenotype posted:

I figured this would be an ok place to ask: Is it really stupid to get carpeting put in if the budget can stretch enough to get vinyl plank flooring?

I've seen that the planks last much much longer, are easier to clean, improve the resale value of the home... I just don't think I like em! I prefer going barefoot at home and I hate the idea of putting my feet down on cold hardwood flooring in Michigan winters, the dog and cat are not gonna enjoy running around the den or down the hallway (the dog already somewhat avoids the kitchen), and I don't like the idea of getting down on a hard floor to play with them either. And yet everything I read and all my family's advice is that I'm being stupid to consider wasting money on carpeting rather than spend 2-3x the price on hardwood.

I wouldn't get vinyl plank flooring because from what I recall it can be damaged by direct sunlight

you can get laminate planks that look just like real wood and are much more affordable and durable. That's what I did. $2/SF materials and about the same for labor.

I also have a dog, I just got a few rugs, and I made sure the laminate I got has enough "stick" so it's not super slippery. There are ones that are super smooth and slippery (for pets), and ones that have very visible texture that result in a lot of grip.

alnilam posted:


Second question: my wife and I both have a preference for naturalistic aesthetics. Plants, wood, etc. We've always dreamed of a live-edge or otherwise natural wood looking dining room table. But we also have hardwood floors in the dining room, which I find very lovely btw. Does a natural wood looking table clash with hardwood floors, or can it work?


A natural wood table would work just fine with hardwood floors. I assume the table legs are also the same wood, in which I would just make sure they aren't super similar in color. For example if you have a medium brown walnut colored floor, maple legs on a table would work well. I'm sure there are some live edge tables with non-wood leg options as well. A few other options to have more variety are a rug under the table (though I see why you wouldn't want to do that), and having chairs made of a different material, or at least the chair legs, for example perforated steel.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Mar 4, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I agree I think that green paint looks fine, but I would paint a square in other areas too, for example right above (and bordering) the moulding so you can see how it interacts with that and the floor. If the walls get different amounts of light I would do samples on the other walls as well. Always a good idea to sample as much as you can.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

UnkleBoB posted:

Yeah, the silver ones are great and don't have the premium above the normal colors in the same way that the gold and copper do (I'd love a copper one tbqh).

I got some samples of Bludot's Vesper fabrics and am quite surprised at how different they look in person compared to the online photos. Made me really glad I didn't just up and order an ottoman.

yeah, this is why you always get samples. I'm pretty sure the blu dot furniture that they use for their website pics is photographed under VERY bright light. I live in Minneapolis where they are based so I check out their stuff in person pretty often.

By the way, I was actually considering getting one of their ottomans (the hecks model), but I would also recommend checking out softline, who I ended up ordering from. They kind of specialize in this kind of thing and have a bazillion models and fabric choices. I got the lake model in a charcoal color for less than the hecks model, though it's taking two months to arrive because it all ships out of Denmark.

https://www.danishdesignstore.com/collections/ottomans?system_vendor=softline&q=

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

here's a good example, left is the peek dresser on their website, right is in person at their outlet

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

looks good! they do sell a three and four drawer version

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Mar 6, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

disclaimer: I hate kitchen islands

Can the island easily be removed? I'm guessing no, but if it could that would be awesome, it really interrupts the space.

on your top down pics, can you add some dimensions?

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

speaking of kitchens, I contacted a place that did very modern, "Scandinavian" kitchens, and only did full renos, and they said they've never done one under 20k, but mine could maybe be 15k :/

but the good news is you can just reface and get larger doors and hinges to create a frameless look if you have framed cabinets, and it's wayyyy cheaper

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

bird with big dick posted:

And then do what with that space?

well that's why I asked about the dimensions, but that would be a natural area for a dining table with the island gone. and there would be some clear separation between dining and living areas.

do the cabinets above the cooktop, oven, sink etc. not provide enough storage space?

can you just add annotations with dimensions for the image you posted? the one with the red markup

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

what size and shape is the dining table you want to put in?

i agree with the poster above saying that island seating is weird when you have a dining table right next to it

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

a table the size of that island (which looks to be about 3x10 feet) would work pretty well, obviously in the other orientation :p

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

wheatpuppy posted:

Maybe line it with bookshelves, throw an ottoman/low chair in the center in case you want to actually sit there while you read?

chair is good idea, or a small circular table, like 30-36" diameter

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Chip McFuck posted:

Hi thread! Not sure if this is the right place for this, but my wife and I could use some advice on bed frames and where to get them. We're going to be moving into a multi-room apartment from our studio soon and are taking the opportunity to upgrade some of our furniture since we'll actually have the space to decorate how we'd like. Currently, we're both in agreement that we want something mid-century styled with a headboard (either wood or upholstered, doesn't matter) for our full-size mattress, and within a budget of about $800. Unfortunately, the budget is a hard cap as we don't make a ton of money and still need to purchase a couple other items with the money we've saved and my wife doesn't feel comfortable spending more on a frame. I know we're not going to get solid wood or hand-crafted anything, but that's ok, veneers are fine.

Any advice is appreciated!

fyi solid wood isn't necessarily any better than veneers over MDF. Most higher end places use the latter. It's mainly about how good the veneer is.

I was going to mention article, not sure how good they are (I'm somewhat skeptical), but they are only in king and queen size!

In general a lot of sites don't have as much selection for sizes below queen.

you could try this one, it's a bit over your budget but it's the only thing I found

https://www.crateandbarrel.com/tuft-and-needle-full-solid-walnut-bed/s668009

there's also an oak version for less

https://www.crateandbarrel.com/tuft-and-needle-full-solid-oak-bed/s667995

Unsurprisingly, when they say "walnut" they really mean walnut + other cheaper woods, in this case beechwood and pine, which helps keep the price down.

are you planning on keeping a full size full term? if so this could work, but if you want to upgrade the size in the future, it might be better to just use Ikea for the time being.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Mar 19, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Just going off what kaiser said in the woodworking thread a while back when I asked him about it vs solid wood. I've never seen MDF without a veneer, that would be weird.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I took a sample from the wall of a paint that the previous owners had used on a small section. I was trying to figure out the approximate RGB, eventually I found a tool online, so I took a picture of the sample (while in the jar) and looked at values in the section where there was no shadow. I got around 235,215,195

My understanding of undertones is that they result when one of these values is more present than the others, e.g. something like 195,195,195 would have zero undertone.

For my paint, obviously red is the most common, so it makes sense that it has a bit of a pinkish undertone.

What I'm really looking for is a white (shutup) with a bit of brown in it, but it doesn't seem like there is a "brown undertone" per se (I think this is because brown is a secondary color).

I looked at another paint which seemed to have the look I want (obviously I have to get a sample), and it's values are 235,233,222

I'm just not sure how to evaluate the undertone. It has somewhat more red and green compared to blue. Does that mean I should expect something close to a slight yellow (mix of red+green) undertone? perhaps even slightly closer to orange as there's a bit more red than green, which would be nice as that's close to brown.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

does anyone know if bathroom wall cabinets like this can be installed without the back? I assume you can - I want to put something on the wall, but I want it to cover the outlet, so I can put my electric toothbrush in there while still being able to plug it in, while still having a door on front to conceal it. Perhaps I could also put on the back but just cut a hole for the outlet.

like this one https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/godmorgon-wall-cabinet-with-1-door-brown-stained-ash-effect-70457915/

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

What's a good source for basic rugs? Short term I need a runner and don't even know where to start. Long term I want to add a couple more rugs and replace one. The big box stores have some but they look not great. There's a couple of actual flooring stores nearby that might have better options but I haven't looked closely at them yet.

Should I check out the in person places first or go straight online? I'm not even sure what style I want I just want to cover the stupid gray laminate.

for something you want to keep long term you want 100% wool. For the runner what size exactly are you looking for, what color, and what is your budget?

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Apr 4, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Booley posted:

The back of one of those cabinets is a structural component that keeps it from racking. You'll need to cut a specific hole.

great thanks

I know it's ikea, but I assume I'll need something more than a utility knife :p

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

alright thanks!

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

ecarpetgallery.com is good and pretty cheap. Look for turkish kilim/gelim's. They are flat woven, low pile, and usually are in geometric patterns that play well with alot of different styles.

does that site have samples? I don't see anything. You always want to order a sample first.

Kilims are cool, though they might not be the most comfortable if you are going to be walking on them a lot. You definitely want a really nice rug pad in either case, one with felt on top and rubber on the bottom.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I don’t think so. What would they send a sample of? Most all their rugs are hand woven or knotted. They can’t just cut a swatch off one, and even if they did it might not be like the rug next to it.

With all the places I looked at for a rug, you could get a sample. With the one I ended up with from blu dot, it was basically a 1x1 foot version of the entire rug that I paid a $25 deposit on. Maybe this is just impossible with certain styles though.

I just took a look at room and board, and all their flat-weave rugs have samples you can get for a deposit.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Apr 5, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

nishi koichi posted:

wait what happened to prada slut?

ah you caught me, I was linking to his kilim, he still posts but not in these threads

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Is 19" long a typo? Runners are typically at least six feet long.

If that is what you are looking for, 200 should be fine, kilims are relatively inexpensive and it's not a full size rug.

https://www.dwr.com/rugs-rugs/palani-rug/100065458.html?lang=en_US

this dwr one is 295 for 2.5x6 feet, 395 for 2.5x9 feet

I would start out deciding on color, since as mentioned patterns will usually be geometric with a kilim. There's a bazillion rugs out there so having some basic criteria is very helpful.

If you want to post an image of the space where you want it to go that is also helpful.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Apr 6, 2021

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Oh I see I misread 19' as 19"

19 feet is extremely long, is that the distance from the doorway you are standing at to the end of that partition on the left?

I haven't seen a runner longer than nine feet in the usual spots I look so far. But even nine feet should be helpful.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I wouldn't do that (it won't work if they have fringes, and even if they don't, you have to somehow keep them looking like one unit when you are walking on them) - how long is it to the end of the partition? If I pretend it's 15', then you can place the runner with a three foot gap on each side. You don't want to have the runner go past the partition, and definitely not reach an adjoining area, to keep visual separation.

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